Capri 2.8i won't start

[Allerton Classics]

I bought a Capri 2.8i I did the heads and now it will not start at all

the timing is ok, spark at the leads
Fuel is there, valve gaps ok.

I have put a spare start valve on the plen chamber,lots of fuel at the connecting pipe.
The Aux air device is open, I have taken it off 2 see.

If I have mixed the injectors up would this affect it,not that it would be easy to do?
The car has back fired once + blow'n the pipe of the warm up reg after I checked the valve gaps, but will not run at all.

The battery is new.

The engine ran before but after running, turned it off and could not start it again before I stripped it down.

hope all this makes sense:help:

[Mr_lizard]

Make sure the dizzy isn't 180 degrees out and recheck all the lead sequence. Make sure that the flap isn't stuck in the metering head as well (This happened to me) It won't matter if the injectors are mixed up as the K-jetronic is a constant feed system. I did have a problem with the injectors not sealing in the manifold and this caused problems, which I cured by pulling them all out and re-sealing them with siligasket.

[Allerton Classics]

Took the warm up reg off and it was gunged up
put it back on and the turn over was a bit better,
So I put a spare one on and now it is actually firing
well trying.

I have tried the 180 degrees idea it is not that nor is it the sequence

I tried widening the gap on the sparks and it made a difference but only did one bank. the book says 0.60mm 0.0025
which is very small.

It sounds like the timing but it is not ,plenty of fuel so it is not that.
I have a spare dissy and eng it is out of a 4x4, the rotor arm is different, looks like a rev limter on it I will give the dissy a go. stoped for today as it is getting cold:clint:

[Mr_lizard]

The 2.8i should have a rev-limiting arm fitted as standard, people often fit non-limiting ones off xr4's coz they're a lot cheaper! Is the metering head flap opening correctly and not catching anywhere? What did you strip down on the engine anyway?

[Allerton Classics]

metering head flap,Where is this?


I will be putting new plugs in when they arrive.

[Mr_lizard]

It's on the right hand side, as you look at the engine, its above the air filter, under the inlet trunking just behind where the 8 or so injector pipes connect to the metering head. If you take the inlet trunking off you should see a disc that if you push it gently should move down. When the engine is running the flap it lifted up and by inlet suction and reglates the fuel pressure/flow. If is sticking it can alter the fuel mixture and stop it starting ( or it'll shoot flames out the exhaust, like mine did!)

[mihakrapez]

I had the same problem.

After 2 days I found out that one of the previous owners rotated complete ignition for 180 degrees.

It said on the dizzy 1 but it was 4 so spark cables were positioned wrong it had only backfired a couple of times.
Turned it to correct position and it started first time:muppet:


Where is original rev limiter mounted

[Mr_lizard]

It's built onto the top of the rotor arm, it's a horibble sprung loaded thing that feels like you've flung an anchor out the car when it hits 6100rpm!

[mihakrapez]

Thank you.

I have original TT ignition. ( is it possible to remove it).

I would like to go for omex rewlimeter and 284/284 2.5K-6.5K kent cam.

Cheers

[Mr_lizard]

Yeah, I think the XR4 arm is a direct swap, just pull yours off and pop the new one on.

[Allerton Classics]

Finally got the car started

I checked the metering head flap seemed to be ok
It was the spark plugs put a new set in, I think the main problem was the warm up reg as it was bunged up and old spark plugs.

So now I have to tighten the left bank manifold as it is blowing and set the timing and check for leaks.

The rear break is ceased but I do not have the alloy locking wheel nut key, any ideas how to get it off.

Thanks for the advice

I will post pics as soon as I give it a wash.

James

[Dave]

Is the lock you are talking about one of those square shaped things?
Easiest way to get them off is with a large flat bladed screwdriver. Put the blade into one of the sides of the square and turn it. Works for me, but make sure it is the biggest screwdriver that will fit in. :thumb:

[Allerton Classics]

No it is the wheel locking nut / Hub nut

I guess that you can buy the keys, are there lots of variants?


James

[Mr_lizard]

Just get an old 12 point socket and spank it on with an FBH, or depending on the wheels you have, you can use an FBH and chisel.

[Allerton Classics]

Tighten the manifolds today and it started and it sounds good
Oil pressure is at least mid way, before I reconed the heads it was no existent.
The tappets need adjusting, but need to tighten the head bolts first.

But sods law the starter packed up, I knew the power lead was a bit dodgy, little did I know the connector was loose as f..k inside and came off, so I have removed it and will look for a second hand 1.
I have a pinto 2.0l one that prob will fit but it looks a bit weaker.

The exhaust, I cannot work if it is blowing or the tubular manifolds make it sound that way:confused:

Will strobe it and set the timing, 10 degs dose that sound right?

[Mr_lizard]

My tubular exhaust makes a right racket. Possibly because its blowing everywhere and a bit knackered, roll on the 24v cossie! I think the timing is meant to be 8deg, but i'll have a look at what the haynes says.

[bazpro88]

i got a brand new starter for £35 plus postage if u interested. got it with my capri but never had to use it

[Allerton Classics]

Got the starter today
Fitted and started no probs,have set the timing and all the guages work, I can even see the petrol guage go up
(dont know how long it will stay just above the red):D

The n/s indicator dose not work ,all the other lights and wipers do:woohoo:
A bit tapity but not to bad.

Just need to get the wheels off now and do the brakes,bought new shoes and cylinders.
If Memory serves me right it can be a three handed job.

The exhast sound load when I rev it ,but I think that it is a large bore up to the rear boxes.

[Dave]

Capri fuel and temperature guages are only for decoration. The needles may well move about, but rarely do those movements mean anything.

[Allerton Classics]

http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2008/1/2008011914121999817ne.JPG



There is the car

[Allerton Classics]

Got the locking wheel nut of

Hammered a multi socket on and off it came :woohoo:

Brakes just needed freeing and are ok but can not test drive it as not legal yet
No mot or Tax but will take it next Friday

Insurance is about £134.00 / 3000 miles per year

[Mr_lizard]

Titan blue, like it, looks pretty rust free too. Needs lowering......:D

[Allerton Classics]

I would like to stick 17" wheels on
but whant some old skool 4 spokes

Also I have some alloy lowering blocks that came with a mk1 escort would these fit?
what about the fronts do I need lower springs,where would the best place be to get them?

James

[Mr_lizard]

17" wheels won't suit the car well, old fords tend to suit smaller rims better (in my opinion!) You might struggle to get 17's under the arches too, but these (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-x-RS-7-Spoke-17-Alloy-Wheels-Tyres_W0QQitemZ170188232028QQihZ007QQcategoryZ9888QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) look about the best of the big wheels and make sure they're the right offset though, but I prefer the 15" 7 spokes off the brooklands. The mk1 escort blocks are the same capri ones. Front springs can be lowered by cutting a coil off, but it can be hard to get it to sit level after! Try www.tickover.co.uk

[Dave]

Rally Design for lowered springs. They don't cost much.

[sierra3dr]

Awesome Capri there James. I recall seeing one in Droylsden,and another in Middleton near me. I had a brief chat with him as I was driving in the opposite direction. Hearing the sound of one approaching is unique,a lovely sound.

[Allerton Classics]

Tourqed the head down again seems to be ok still a bit of steam coming oil off oil filler tube.

Did a compression test after warming the engine.
125 psi on 2 and 4 cylinders, some bore wear so I guess that is average for a high mileage engine.

Will take it for a mot next week.
I think it will fail on emissions and properly some little things, as it seems solid underneath regards welding.
All light work brakes are a bit spongy but will bleed them tomorrow and it needs a exhaust rear rubber mount the steering wheel is off centre dose not pull.

The drivers window runners are crap as the glass drops
do not know if I need parts or I can fix it and the sunroof dose not open not sure what that is down to.

[Mr_lizard]

My drivers window drops out too, The channel rotted away at the bottom. You'll probably need a new window. Sunroofs? Don't bother! If they open they usually get stuck or hit the roof and scrape half the paint off or they leak like a ba*tard!

[Allerton Classics]

Car failed on:

Plate light
Wiper blades.(new blades)
Washer jet water not enough (so need adjusting)
Horn :confused: fuse is ok (so maybe wiring or horn)
rear exhaust mount,(I could not get the new one on last night so I will use the rings from halfords.)
some welding,(I could not see any needed but not a problem for man of my caliber:D)

Oh and emisions (was expected,will fit new air filter and adjust)

So not all that bad:)

[Mr_lizard]

Not too sad! Where does it need welding?

[Zetec_Escorts]

Yeah, I think the XR4 arm is a direct swap, just pull yours off and pop the new one on.

The XR4i has the same rotor arm:woohoo:


I would like to go for omex rewlimeter and 284/284 2.5K-6.5K kent cam.

I would bin all the igntion system and fit a megajolt. It will be a lot better and probably work out cheaper in the long run.

[Allerton Classics]

I have done:
The emissions
The water jets
Wipers are on the way
Horn is f..ked
(Took it off and dose not work when a live and eath is fed from battery)
Bulbs are gone on the rear plate light (or could be a bad earth)

Re: the welding I can not find any problems :confused:
it was in the back of my mind to ask to be shown the area
but as I was given the sheet the owner said he has put yellow chalk on the area, what a load of :percy:

So I will be on the phone on Monday.

[Allerton Classics]

Rear exhaust mount done
Rear plate lights done

New bulbs still no diff
Turned out to be a bad earth the only way I could get them both to work was to bolt the fitting to the car then with the second bolt hole, bolt the plastic cover over the fitting.

As the fitting is earthed through the bolt :confused:

Will look at it in more depth later when it passes the MOT and as the wind chill factor, it was fin cold out there:clint:

[Mr_lizard]

Yeah, mine earth through the bolts too. Ford designed them like that so they can laugh when they all stop working!

[Allerton Classics]

:woohoo::woohoo::woohoo::woohoo::woohoo::woohoo:

Passed:thumb:The MOT

Now just got to sort the drivers window
Tappets
Tax
properly sort the plate light bulbs out
Etc...

Will change the engine if I keep it,it is my Winter car for now:D

[Mr_lizard]

Nice one :thumb:
Now all together - Cosworth 24v...................

[Dave]

Excellent :thumb:
What happened to the welding though? :confused:

[Allerton Classics]

Welding I did after I phoned and asked where it was.

It stated on the fail sheet that:

n/s front suspension component mounting prescribed area is deliberately modified which significantly reduces the original strength (2.4.a.2)

It was the inner chassis rail engine area:confused:
So plated it luckly it was vertical not over head
the tester said it is not possible to hand right on the sheet:crazy:

[Allerton Classics]

2003 was the last time the car was taxed :crazy:
And cleaned by the amount of dirt and algae spiders webs and eggs in the bumpers and front grill

[graham bahr]

tester said it is not possible to hand right on the sheet


yes thats correct technically its a legal document so the sheet has to say the exact legal reason why the car has failed,

i used to get no end of grief from in vehicle inspectorate when i was an MOT QC because one of my testers wouldnt use the correct wording but wrote whatever he thought at the time.

if a failure sheet says " excessive play in a jiggle pin" then for the sheet to be legally correct there has to be a section in the testers manual that says to check jiggle pin and a reason for rejection that states " excessive play in a jiggle pin"

bonkers i know, its just legal red tape, but it means its immpossible for them to accurately decribe stuff like corrosion

[Stu.C]

Hey James, great work so far :thumb: You've sneaked a resto thread into another section and tried to get away with it by only using one picture ... i like your style ;)

Maybe ask a mod to get this one moved and the title changed?

[Allerton Classics]

Re-did the tappets (still out)think I need new set of rocker arms or a new engine:lol:

Put new power steering belt on.
Sprayed the front bumper, will put it back on Sunday , painting the inside with rust cure ,then hamerite primer and two coats of ronseal smooth should stop any problems.
I need new tyres:noway:they are a bit old cracked so...
Took it out for a spin on a straight road:D
Could not resist a little wheel spin:D

looking forward to have a good go, it is taxed road legal.:cool:


I will put some more pics up when I stop at a good scenic spot, if I want to stop:D

[Allerton Classics]

For the future

24v Cosworth

Eng
mt 75 g/box
2.8i flywheel (I have)
Do I need new engine mounts?
can I use the same tubular manifolds and sys on the car now.

Is there a web site for info about this coversion as I would like to way up the costs.

I have a spare v6 2.8i eng, as the one in the capri has bore ware, I know of a low milage auto 2.8i eng for sale cheep as chips as well, so do I stick with the 2.8i or change:dunno:

Thanks

James

[graham bahr]

your current engin emounts should fit the 24v block, no your tubular exhaust manifolds wont fit, the 24v having a totally different number and arrangement of exhaust ports, but it should be possible keep the 24v manifolds to modify the 24v down pipes to mate up with your existing exhaust system.

if you do a bit of googling it shouldnt behard to find lots of info on swapping this engine into other cars its a popular swap for cortina mk3/4/5 and capri

[Allerton Classics]

Took the car for a motorway stint

70 came very easy;):dance:
The car came with no radio,who needs one:lol:
With a v6 sound track and tubular manifolds/twin system.

Very happy with my winter car.

thanks to all who gave advise.

James

[Allerton Classics]

Finally getting round to putting a better engine in, as this one developed a very bad cam sound.

Turned out to be the right bank front valve rocker arm flapping around due to a broken retaining washer:clint: see pic

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]http://media2.turbosport.co.uk/2008/6/2008070609328491737flappinvalve.JPG

[Allerton Classics]

What a week :mad:
I have been putting a new 2,8i engine in.
4x4 engine so just the block as the injectors are smaller

Put every thing on, lost one of the vital water pipes so had to get new pipe :doh:

Started it not firing at all :confused:


I checked the valve clearances again they where out badly some closed and some open too much.

Still nothing,
I had taken the air filter-metering unit out so I finally found the problem
I had connected the supply to the return and the return fuel line to the supply:doh:

Then after all that the engine still would only smoke.
:confused:

I thought about the fact that the disy was diff between the two engines so changed them, also the caps as the carbon was badly pitted
:woohoo::woohoo: its alive
Now two things smoke poring of engine pevious owner had painted it silver and the alt belt squealing, the belt is to long as the pulleys are different sizes on the new engine and timing test drive etc.

And I lost 2 litres of oil (25.00 for 5 litres), as the oil cooler copper washer had crushed, as it was not seated properly:doh:

If it is that hard to put a 2,8i engine a cossy engine.:faint:

[sierra3dr]

It's great to read that you've had success,trying sort my 4i with a Cossie rad.

[Allerton Classics]

Took the car for a drive a couple of miles

I have not put the orig fan back on because it is the wrong size (4x4 must be different nut size)

The car came with a electric fan on the front of rad, switch on dash.

I never used it on the short run how often would you need to switch it on?

Car was ok think it still need tuning, sound brill

I will now be doing a few things to my mk1 escort

New Bumpers front back, get a proper carb as it came with a 1.6/2.0l van webber :clint: it is only a 1.3l hc engine.
Also underseal , tune the eng do the tapets points/condensor.
And the body work, need the surface rust doing mainly on the top of the doors.

[popuptoaster]

24v it, you seriously wont regret it, ive had lots of 2.8i stuff, never again, the 24v is so much nicer, and faster, and more economical.

[Allerton Classics]

I will be keeping as is ,had considered it but I want to do something different to a my Mk1 escort van after restoring it.
Tdci it, will be a :fight: as it has not been done.

[Allerton Classics]

Fitted some AVO shocks

brill, result rear is so much better (on 2 setting very easy to fit and set):thumb:

http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=426252