Coil over conversions [Archive]

2quick4u

15-08-2003, 22:49

The Rally design kit is horrible

Get one From RACE (Stoke On Trent) about £10 more but miles better

You will also have to drill and tap the hole in the bottom to 10x1 thread (check that on the new inserts first)

And I think that you need long inserts for Capri struts, but I may be wrong.

The GP4 type inserts (short and long) are available from various suppliers, shop around for the best price, but they only come from a couple of sources, TAS being one of them.

As for replacement Capri inserts I can get these in 2 different types through my Bilstein account if anyone is interested.

HTH

RMinOZ

16-08-2003, 07:40

Mark,
How does one determine the positioning of the threaded section.
This can be a tough job!

2quick4u

16-08-2003, 08:56

Roger,

I usually position them 2 inches down from the top, although I have fitted them lower before for people who want to "slam" their cars.

RMinOZ

16-08-2003, 15:25

Yes ride height has a lot to do with it

What about spring length?
Suspension droop?
Positioning of travel in relation to above??
http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2003/8/2003816152442226726.jpg
U will note in this pic, once car comes off jacks, there will be ....less than 2 inches of compression travel, without taking into account of weight of car. generally 5 inches of travel in a strut.

PS have not heard much good with Raldes stuff!

2quick4u

16-08-2003, 23:17

I have just found through experience that is about the best position, they have a long range of adjustment using spring length beteen 8" and 10"
They will fall away from the top seat when the car is jacked up, this can be a problem for some MOT testers here so can use slim "helper springs" just to keep the spring seated when the car is jacked up for testing.

Any more than approx 2" drop seems to make them handle worse anyway, unless you play around with the camber to get it back.

The short bodied Bilsteins will give more damping travel when the car is lower.

Not everything from Raldes is bad, but some of their stuff is really crap, don't know how they are still selling some items as they are such a bad fit, still people don't seem to send stuff back, and just spend time making it fit as it should, seems wierd to me, if I spend money on car parts I expect them to fit and work as they should.

Bob2

17-08-2003, 15:35

i want to lower the car by 2-3 inches for track use so do i need long or short inserts, i just presumed short? Have you got any details on RACE?

2quick4u

17-08-2003, 21:56

Longs are fine for -2" but any more and shorts are better so you don't run out of damper travel.

RMinOZ

17-02-2004, 12:12

Also like to see this in "Goodies"

robrs2

17-02-2004, 12:30

Just done mine used the RalDes ones. Not the best. There are some pics here http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=oldrestpro&Number=133339&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=2

Fitted mine 25mm from the top and used 12" 200lb springs. Sits at the same ride hight as the old springs.

Also some more info here http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=188842&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=21&fpart=1

stevieel

06-04-2004, 04:37

Anyone got contact details or link etc for RACE stoke on trent as above

RMinOZ

06-04-2004, 12:05

http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2004/4/200446115144516979.gif

RMinOZ

10-04-2004, 08:54

http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2004/4/20044108417191570.gif

CortinaCosworth

08-01-2005, 19:41

2quick4u

08-01-2005, 19:55

Hi!
I see that You call the set from Rally Design horrible. I am going to fit a kit to my Capri studs. What is it that is so horrible about them?
Are there any better kits,and what makes them better?
Hope You can help me with this...
Eirik,Norway!! http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/smile.gif

Hi Eirik,

The Rallye Design kit has cast spring seats and lock rings, that are a bit poorly made, I have also found with them in the past they have badly cut threads.
The biggest problem I had was when fitting a set to some GP1 Bilsteins, these struts have the short stumpy "D" shaped locator on the top (Same as GP4 types), they are what would be used with original Ford roller top mounts, my customer got a set from Rally Design, but when I went to assemble the struts with the new springs etc. I found the roughly cast top cup was so thick that were would no longer have been enough of the shoulder sitting through to locate safely in the top mount, Rallye Design insist there is no problem, to me it's bloody dangerous.

See below pics of Rallye design top seat and then one from R.A.C.E which is machined from Billet, I always reccomend using the ones from R.A.C.E now as they are much better quality and only cost about £5-10 more for a pair.

http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/1/1975709200501081850.gif
http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/1/57068200501081850.gif

The sparkly bits on the second one are just some filings from where I picked it up off a dirty bench for a picture, you can clearly see the difference in thickness though.

If you are getting them from R.A.C.E anhd they are not for GP1 / GP4 type Bilsteins, but for the normal diameter Capri/ RS etc type, make sure you ask them for the small hole pilot drilled ones, you will have to open the hole out to the right size for your strut inserts then.

Hope That Helps

RETRO_AL

08-01-2005, 20:40

top one looks like its made from tinfoil

stekcop

08-01-2005, 22:04

cor i got loads of tin foil at work i might send them some more so they can make them a bit thicker!! http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/laugh.gif

CortinaCosworth

09-01-2005, 02:09

Hi,and thanks for a great answer,with pics and everything!!

Seems like a good advice to buy the kit from RACE.
Sorry if I am slow,but RACE,does that firm have a web site?
Haven´t heard of that company,never seen it on the web either....
Thanks again!
Eirik.

Bart2207

09-01-2005, 15:07

Hi mate,

No, they don't have a website. As far as I know they don't have e-mail either. But they do have a phone and even a fax!
Phone : 0044 (0) 1782 523 664
Phone + Fax : 0044 (0) 1782 518 631
Their advice is absolutely http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/thumbs.gif, and as far as I know, they wouldn't charge you the world for their parts. I bought my 4-link and other bodyshell parts from RACE, and the quality is http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/thumbs.gif http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/thumbs.gif

Hope to have helped you

Bart

CortinaCosworth

09-01-2005, 18:12

Hi Bart!
Yes it helped me!
Looks like I have to make a phonecall to RACE one day!!
Thanks http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/smile.gif
Eirik,Norway.

Banishit

10-01-2005, 14:30

I bought some stuff from them and cant recommend them highly enough, good quality and resonable prices to boot

NRspeed

05-03-2005, 19:07

Right I'm gonna wake up this thread!
My question is:
Which strut would be the most suitable for coil over conversion, choices are: 2.8i bilsteins, RS MK2, MK1 AVO/RS1600 I put the mk1,2 seperate incase there is a difference. I have all the above and I'm not sure which to use. Struts will be set up for track depending on strut. Gas billies or gas adjustables which is better?, car will be lowered for track.
Thanks in advance.
Nat

2quick4u

05-03-2005, 20:42

Nat,

Any of those are suitable, but as for what is best it depends a bit on budget and exactly how you want the car (height, stiffness etc)
A short body Bilstein is better for a low car (ones like the GP1 type can be converted) the Capri Bilsteins, or RS/Capri etc struts (fitted with different damper inserts) will run out of damper travel very quickly at lower than -2"

Personally I have found that some of the single way adjustable dampers seem to give too much bump or rebound damping when you adjust them, can be hard to get them how you want them, as for non adjustable bilstein ones they always just seem to work well, play with the springing and roll bar to get the stiffness level you want,

GaZ do seem to be the shock of choice though if you have a little more to spend, everyone seems to be very pleased with them.

When all said and done though it's actually quite hard to make an Escort handle really badly, the difference between one type of damper and another would not translate to a huge amount on a lap.

RMinOZ

07-03-2005, 11:35

Couple o tips.....
When adjusting the height, jack the wheel, off the ground or you'll phuck the thread [FTT]

Clean all the grunge out, above the threaded rings, before turning them, or you'll FTT.

Wrap the exposed threads on strut, with plastic tape, to stop rocks n stuff hitting it, or You'll FTT.

Use a propper PAIR of "C" spanners, not a hammer and punch, or you'll FTNuts

Incidently.....

A RWD escort will always handle better with the ass end 16 to 20mm higher than the front, else it will underster and FTTyres on the front. [measure at sill panels]

TepiTheFinn

09-03-2005, 20:47

i made a guide out of nylon (white part), to make sure not to FTT. other reason was to get spring seated properly, because this is slightly bigger 60mm (usually 57mm) I.D. progressive spring.
http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/3/256959200503091938.gif

NRspeed

13-03-2005, 10:30

Nice one Tepi, if you made another one with a just tight ID you could probably have one on the bottom threads as well to cover them. I think you should market them to Turbosport users.
Right so I'm thinking ideally you need short Bilsteins for low tarmac setup, who does them? or just go with the 2.8i Bilsteins as I wont be lowering beyond a point where chassis mods are needed, I remember seeing raised suspension tops long time ago.
Where would you go or what catogory would you look under for someone to crack test the struts before I do the coil overs?

Retromotorsport

13-03-2005, 12:37

I use Gaz for my Short tarmac spec legs and rears... Give them a call and they will be able to sort you out with the codes etc and then you go to a dealer and pick up a shiny new set and exchange you old legs at the counter... http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/thumbs.gif

Oh and mention your from Turbosport http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/wink.gif

RMinOZ

22-03-2005, 10:08

[QUOTE]
TepiTheFinn said:
i made a guide out of nylon (white part), to make sure not to FTT. other reason was to get spring seated properly, because this is slightly bigger 60mm (usually 57mm) I.D. progressive spring.

Good tip ....Tepi.

Definately needs something there.
Most rings have a lip.
http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/3/2341919200503220852.gif

I see the GAZ ones are "a little light" in this department. Perhaps Gary can advise them??
http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/3/3347474200503220857.gif

The ones I have [coil over kit]have a asheetmetal thread protector.
http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/3/9386292200503220852.gif
They slip over the strutt, are alloy and a ring is welded to strut tube.

Incidently, when welding this treaded bit to strutt DONT fully weld around the tube, 3 or four 20mm long welds are ample to support car.
The problem is welding all around actually weakens the tube.

Also its preferential to err on the lower side , when welding on thread etc, as u can then make up spacers to be put between spring and seat to raise car, if needed, from alloy etc.
http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/3/5299378200503220906.gif

2quick4u

22-03-2005, 10:19

Incidently, when welding this treaded bit to strutt DONT fully weld around the tube, 3 or four 20mm long welds are ample to support car.
The problem is welding all around actually weakens the tube.

I have always welded them all the way round and not had any issues with the tube becoming weak, the original fixed platform was welded all the way round too

RMinOZ

22-03-2005, 10:37

2quick4u said:

Incidently, when welding this treaded bit to strutt DONT fully weld around the tube, 3 or four 20mm long welds are ample to support car.
The problem is welding all around actually weakens the tube.

I have always welded them all the way round and not had any issues with the tube becoming weak, the original fixed platform was welded all the way round too

Duly noted........

BUT

the original welds are "cold welds" as such and do not penetrate the tube as u would, ..........eh mark

2quick4u

22-03-2005, 11:00

I can see where it's coming from, just in practice, and having done more than I can remember, have never had a problem with them.
Maybe my welds don't penetrate much http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/jester.gif

Retromotorsport

22-03-2005, 11:04

weakest point i've found is the stub axle.... in impacts and general use, never had a tube bend or crack at the weld, had the knuckle/tube crack once though, this was only evident after the body was blasted before welding the collars on it.

As for thread protection on the Gaz units... there is a collar like everyone elses about 10mm high. If the spring is compressing sideways you have a bigger problem than damaged threads to worry about... the leg/damper is bent.

Bart2207

28-03-2005, 22:51

Bearing in mind what Gary mentioned about the weakest point being the fixing of the stubaxle, what's the opinion on using a non-threaded sleeve up to where the threaded sleeve starts. I can imagine that'll add some strength to the stub, and transfers the impacts from the coilover-kit directly to the stub axle???? http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/confused.gif

I'm about to convert my struts to coilover, so any opinions are much appreciated http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/thumbs.gif

Bart

Bart2207

28-03-2005, 23:06

This is the idea:
http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/3/5074769200503282304.gif

(please don't take note of lack in drawing skills http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/crazy.gif)

Retromotorsport

29-03-2005, 10:19

I wouldnt bother with the lower sleeve, bit of overkill and its adding weight.

RMinOZ

30-03-2005, 12:30

Bart2207 said:
This is the idea:
http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/3/5074769200503282304.gif

Well i recon this is entirely sound.

I was going to do a very similar thing.
The tube needs to be as big as the lower casting in diameter to take advantage and the upper part I was going to weld onto my ring thing that spring thread sits on.

The wedging most do is fine for rallying eg up down forces, BUT
I have seen quite a few struts bent from braking forces [stopping].

One further mod I would have liked to do is fill this void [between the tube and strutt][between black and red in your pic] with fine sand to resist bending.

AND

for high performace cars [race cars] the void between strutt hydralics [insert] and strutt itself can be filled with thin oil [ATF] to dissapate the heat of shocker , more effectively.

Bart2207

30-03-2005, 19:18

One further mod I would have liked to do is fill this void [between the tube and strutt][between black and red in your pic] with fine sand to resist bending.

General idea was to make the tube just as close-fit as the threaded sleeve. Can't see the meaning of the sand http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/confused.gif

2quick4u

30-03-2005, 19:39

Well i recon this is entirely sound.

I was going to do a very similar thing.
The tube needs to be as big as the lower casting in diameter to take advantage and the upper part I was going to weld onto my ring thing that spring thread sits on.

The wedging most do is fine for rallying eg up down forces, BUT
I have seen quite a few struts bent from braking forces [stopping].

One further mod I would have liked to do is fill this void [between the tube and strutt][between black and red in your pic] with fine sand to resist bending.

AND

for high performace cars [race cars] the void between strutt hydralics [insert] and strutt itself can be filled with thin oil [ATF] to dissapate the heat of shocker , more effectively.

The sleeves I use here are a contact fit on the strut casing, so wouldn't be able to get any sand in there.

I have been filling the area between "cartridge" type dampers and the strut casing with oil for years, people looked at me like I was nuts, glad someone else agrees.

Bart2207

30-03-2005, 19:55

I have also heard somebody say to put some engine coolant in?????????? Not entirely sure what to think about that http://www.turbosport.co.uk/images/smilies/dunno.gif

TepiTheFinn

30-03-2005, 20:18

i always use oil between cartridge and strut tube.
1/3 of the volume, giving room for hot oil to expand.
that was teached to me in school, two decades ago.

Cheers,
Tepi

Tazzie

30-03-2005, 22:38

Normally if you use koni inserts the manual say you do need to use 50 cc of oil or coolant fluid to put in the tube before u insert the damper
I always put oil or coolant fluid in to the tube when i use insert on whatever care they are used on

greets Tazzie

DarthVader

01-04-2005, 15:57

Fook and I've just assembled 4 legs without oil :-(

Oh well no chance of me stripping them off the cars again.

DIDDY

02-10-2006, 10:28

Just to let you no that as regards adjusting the strut spring hieght i have on many occasions used a roller platform ajuster they are two 1/16 thick washers and a very thin flat run needle bearing, the plates sand wich the bearing at the base of the spring this enables you to adjust the spring with a c- spanner with the weight on the car or not its your choice as we need to be quick in motorsport they work brilliantly.
So recap for those not mechanically minded place bottom platform on leg then washer/bearing/washer then spring top hat.
As regards welding tube onto leg we always weld all round tube but tig weld less heat or distortion and more than strong enough !
Hope this is of some help, ive got them on the husky!.

DIDDY!

alladdin

16-11-2006, 00:46

as a note i bought the raldes ones on weekend.bottom and adjuster rings defo machined alloy and not sure of top cap as ive not opened packet but looks sound enough whatever? nov/06

alladdin

11-12-2006, 18:32

for fitting rollertop mounts to 2.8 bilstiens you need a spacer set. so with help and pics from mk1 matt and niel cos heres a rough guide when using coilover kit.

ok with matts dimensions as a guide i made the spacers. using the longer spacer at the bottom will raise the ride hight just under an inch as compared to swapping it to the top.im putting it on the bottom and hope that i can then lower to the correct hight i want using my adjustable struts. my roller tops are old with a 3/4 inch hole (18.8mm) so the long spacer is 29mm long, 30mm dia, cut down to 18.75 for 6.5mm. short one is 12mm long,again 30mm dia cut down to 18.75 for 6.5mm. the 2.8 billy shaft is 15.75 mm dia so i had to drill both spacers and the spring top cap 16mm as that was closest i had.
heres a link to thread with pics.

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=112125
:thumb:

Anto

13-12-2006, 05:33

Hi lads, im about to convert my struts to coilovers and have a question for all of ye. Im using a pair of 2.8i billys, coilover conversion kit, 200ib springs, alloy top mounts, spacer and nut kit and 300/70 long grp4 inserts.
My question is when i take out my old inserts and tap the bottom of the strut and insert the new insert should there be a dust seal or something at the top of the strut casing?????
I have a oic attached with a black arrow pointing to where im talking about. Ive being trying to figure this one out and i cant figure out whats to stop dirt nd sh*t going down between the insert and the casing! :confused:

alladdin

13-12-2006, 21:58

there was/is a press on seal / cover around the top of the tube where you arrowed. mike.

TepiTheFinn

13-12-2006, 22:38

http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2006/12/2006121321383288270billie.jpg

mk1nurburg

17-12-2006, 23:58

so on the bilstein struts after the primary peices have been stripped off the strut leg, to remove the insert do you have to undo the nut on the bottom and also remove the brass cap he top of the strut body? how do people remove this? i take it its knock off and not threaded? also to get rid of the original spring platform is it just a case of getting the grinder out?
cheers. paul

alladdin

20-12-2006, 00:17

once you undo the bottom (lock) nut you also have to unthread the insert from the bottom,it then pulls up n out.on 2.8i billys the seal then taps up n off.
i found the neatest way to remove spring cup was to hacksaw around above the weld then grind off the remainder.

jay_harrier

01-03-2007, 20:13

To protect the tube theads from dirt I use a mountain bike inner tube held in place with zip ties having first sprayed the threads with chain lube for bikes (Castrol sticky snot stuff)

The zip ties are the latch release type so on the rare occasions I want to adjust the height they're not too bad to release.

The inner tube works quite well on the piston too, doesn't need to be a mountain bike tube though & the same for rose joints etc. Always grease them though with a rubber compatable grease.

Some people may sneer but who's sneering when I'm not cleaning dirty, rusty threads? :D

sven

02-07-2007, 18:16

Whats the best way to weld the threaded tube round the top,all the way round,just located by a few tacks or not at all.cheers

sven

alladdin

02-07-2007, 23:55

either several good beads or all the way.
not at all may upset the ride a tad :bolt:

meXEco

03-07-2007, 11:25

Didnt think the top got welded too? Wasnt planning on doing mine??

alladdin

03-07-2007, 23:39

Didnt think the top got welded too? Wasnt planning on doing mine??

i didnt notice the TOP word !:O

just the bottom of the tube is normally welded.

sven

18-09-2007, 22:48

Just got these back after about 7 months very happy with the welds BUT should l get the gussets welded on or is it a bit over the top for a road car, plus how about cutting the old brake pipe brackets off , this is all before l get them nickel and powder coated that is.
cheers

sven

doughman

25-11-2007, 00:01

Can i just ask people opinions please?...
i have a set of bilstein shocks and im torn between sending them to gaz to be made to coilovers or coverting them and getting some short tarmac inserts the car will be used mainly on the road with occasional trackdays?
any advice welcome
thanks

markjabber

28-11-2007, 08:57

scrote

28-11-2007, 09:15

plus how about cutting the old brake pipe brackets off ,

I would cut them off if you're not using them.....
I didn't , then when I crashed , that bracket cut through the underwing turret leg thingy making more repair work

alladdin

28-11-2007, 20:37

I have changed my billys to coil over with 300/70 short and 9" 30lb springs this will lower car about 3" in center of adjustmen (depending on whee you weld your tube, mine is 1" from top) but you an raiseit up slighly if this is too low

i put my thread on 2" down and the lower seat aint far from the bottom. for short inserts i would go down 3" min at top, tho the thread tubes may vary in lenghth?
i also have 11" springs tho so thats a 2" factor.....

markjabber

28-11-2007, 22:04

Here are some pics of mine

sven

05-04-2008, 19:39

What would be the minimum shock travel for a capri (2.0 strut).
Just put mine together and tested them on the car and Ive only got 40mm max travel!
Its about 2 1/2 inch lower than standard with 2oolb 2.25 springs free length 9" with the wheels(280's) just tucked up in to the archs plus roller top mounts.
Ive lowered the cross member 15mm to componsite a bit, but it only gives me an extra 5mm travel!
Threaded sleeve welded 2" down.
is there any thing else to try EXCEPT rising the car.?

sven

alladdin

05-04-2008, 21:26

i think im coprrect in saying that lowering the x/m will just further upset your geometry. it wont affect the distance between floor and top mnt, your issue is lowered car and roller tops which increase the strut shaft lenghth. try std tops, or / and check the "tophat spacers" if you fitted any are correct for min strut shaft lenghth.
or but short billys
hope it makes some sense.

sven

06-04-2008, 19:45

Your right about lowering the X member upsetting the geometry ,I have rised the steering rack to compensate a bit and going to bend the steering arms as well to help with the lowering.But the TCAs will be horizontal!

got the right spacers fitted may just need proper short struts.
Any ideas how much short ones are?anyone?
sven

davejupp

28-04-2008, 15:15

Im just making some Coil overs but my bodys dont look like this at the top they have a screw top are they any good and can i fit Bilstein in them as they are oil shocks in them and the top is about 14mm so the aolly top mounts dont fit?:dunno:

[q

uote=TepiTheFinn;1283303]http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2006/12/2006121321383288270billie.jpg[/quote]

davejupp

29-04-2008, 21:03

Anyone help?

trig

29-04-2008, 21:42

They sound like Rs struts not billy's mate.

alladdin

29-04-2008, 21:44

if the ones shown are billys and yours have a screw in cap which retains the shocker then yours are rs type.
providing the threaded tube fits then you can "coilover " yours.
you cant fit the proper billy upsidedown style insert but i believe peter lloyds sell a bilstien insert in the same style as yours
you can no doubt get/make spacer tubes to fit the top mnt.
hope that makes some sense:thumb:

davejupp

29-04-2008, 22:20

ok so i have the rs ones so upside down ones will not fit? what will? need small hole tipe i have made them in to adj ones. where do i go from here, this is stopping me from building the reat of my car:help:

dangerousdave

29-04-2008, 22:35

Speak to GAZ they were £150 for the inserts with ts discount and a 2 week wait. Also speak to TJM on here for one of his coilover conversions if he still has any left, just make sure your outer diameter of the top of the tube where the nut is is 50mm and no more than about 50.4mm i have had 2 pairs which were 50.8mm and my sleeves didnt fit so have gone for gaz converted legs which are about £240 the pair with ts discount :thumb:

As for the topmount, is the shaft too small in the bearing, if so there are washers and nuts with sleeves on to sleeve it down to fit your inserts, again i gaz can supply these and the topmounts if you dont already have them.

This is all if you go for gaz of course :D

davejupp

29-04-2008, 22:52

JET-6

21-06-2008, 01:25

Guys, need some help please, im after some pictures of your car height vs the coilover tube placement

Mainly what i need is a pic of how your car sits, and a pic of where your threaded tube is welded and the length of tube you used, or just purely the specs of the bootom of the tube location and the top of the tube location(measured from the top down)

I have a MK1 escort 2 door with MK Capri struts to be converted and go in

I really want to get this right 1st time to make my life easy

If you ca host feel free to email them to me at thumpainc@bigpond.com

Cheers Matt

alladdin

21-06-2008, 07:44

JET-6

21-06-2008, 11:04

mount it 3 inch from the top and job done.:thumb:

you didnt mention spring lenghth which is relevant, mine are 11" and the threads 2" from top, should be 3" in my opinion for 11" springs. shorter springs will adjust from that point no problem.

3" are you for real, i seen earlier in this thread that 2" from the top was heaps

Plus getting the parts over here is hard too, choise is very limited, all the ebay crap alloy slip on ones are flooding the market

Have you got the pics to show me what it looks like?

alladdin

22-06-2008, 21:48

i am indeed very much for real ;) i put mine 2" down and used 11" springs. with the strut assembled i think 3" would be better.
use this info as a ref point. if you use shorter springs ie 10" then put it 2" down. etc. etc.
get parts from raldes.

or simply dont believe me :dunno:

kirk honda

30-07-2008, 08:24

heres mine 3 inches down from the top
and will have 12 inch by 170 Lb springs
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d76/kirk10/mk1%20escort%20project/escort33333333333333333333333333-9.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d76/kirk10/mk1%20escort%20project/escort33333333333333333333333333-8.jpg

JET-6

07-08-2008, 12:17

So whats the most univeral streetable spring rate, i wad thinking around the 200/225 mark? i have a 2.3 pinto in my car and are about to order the coils etc

Im thinking the tube 3" down with 12" coils would be ok, or the tube 2" down with 10" coils

Does this sound about right guys?

alladdin

07-08-2008, 20:50

if your roads are smooth then yes,they may suit, if rough then i would say 190

M11rf

08-08-2008, 10:49

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/M11RF/Green%20Bomber/SUC50001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/M11RF/Green%20Bomber/SUC50002.jpg

I've just had these made from some Subaru Legs. Bilstein Inserts and roller bearing top mounts.
Not fitted to the car another few months so they are an unknown at the moment...

rscentre

27-11-2008, 19:16

hi all can any one tell me why my front shock are bottoming out???

have 205/50/15 wheels and tyers on a 9" spring with a 300/70 short insert have lowerd to a desierd hight>basicly theres 1/2-1" play in the insert?obivousley this is not efficaint.what do i do?do i cut the tube around 3" or so or is this not recomended???any help please?????????????cheers