NODIZ PRO Install on a Pinto

I’m almost at the end of my rebuild project and I’m looking at the ignition options. I have a Pinto with twin 45 Dellorto’s and the old standby of the Sierra electronic distributor, however I’ve been looking at something more modern.
The options appear to be a more modern electronic distributor such as the H & H version or a total electronic system such as the Nodiz PRO.
The H & H has the advantages of cost and ease of installation. The Nodiz PRO has the advantages of only requiring a crank trigger for 2D mapping and can be relatively easily upgraded to 3D mapping. However, disadvantages are initial cost, especially for a trigger wheel kit, and installation on an old engine like a Pinto
The questions for me are more on the Nodiz PRO rather than just replacing the distributor. Please could anyone who has fitted one of these, or any other ECU system, share the details of how you did it:

1. Trigger wheel, did you buy a kit, if so which one. If not, please can you share which trigger wheel you used and how you pinned, screwed, bolted, stopped it slipping, spacers used etc to the pully wheel.
2. Crank sensor, if you didn’t use a kit which one did you use and how did you mount it.
3. Did you remove the existing distributor completely, if so did you use an aftermarket drive option for the oil pump or make your own? If aftermarket who from, or how did you make your own?
4. If you kept the distributor did you cut it down, if so how I’ve no idea how to do this, or did you use one of the aftermarket caps.
5. I’ve seen pictures of the coil pack mounted on the top of the remains of the distributor, please could someone share how they did it.
6. If you fitted this with the Mk2 RS2000 dash did the rev counter work using the Nodiz Pro output or did you need an interface kit, if so which one.
7. The big one, are the benefits worth the money.

Phew a couple of questions here but all good ones.

1. I used a generic wheel from triggerwheels.com. Centre drilled accurately then also double screwed into the nose of the crank. Accuracy is everything on this as the trigger will only suffer slight run out. I believe there are kits out there now for a pinto try webcon.
2. Crank sensor was of a fiesta in a cosworth mounting and a home made bracket. I think these are pretty generic so any will do in reality.
3. Dissy was removed and pump drive from one of the harris boys. I not sure they still make these. try https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COSWORTH-...un~3:rk:1:pf:0
4. N/a
5. Mounted a standard gen 1 coil pack on a mount and off the engine mount on the intake side. leads go over the engine.
6. Mine runs megasquirt on a Mk1 escort. revcounter modded by speedy cables.
7. Only ran shortly due rebuild of car. But I run full ful injection so I think they will plus it is interesting getting it to work etc.

full FI is a lot of work but so are carbs etc depends whether you like messing or not.

HTH

I sell a trigger wheel kit here: https://shopbhp.com/collections/trig...gger-wheel-kit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Clint

I sell a trigger wheel kit here: https://shopbhp.com/collections/trig...gger-wheel-kit

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its a good kit, but in my experience, you should NOT use the washer supplied with the kit on the crank pulley bolt, use the original ford one. the washer with the kit is too thin and with sustained high rpm use it bends and doesnt clamp the trigger wheel properly, then roll that locates the trigger has to handle a load its not intended to and will shear, use the ford washer and you will have no problems :thumb:

I think, all you need is modified advance curve into you existing distributor. Company's like Bestek or Aldon Automotive (if still in business) can do this for you.

A lot less complex.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onyd

I think, all you need is modified advance curve into you existing distributor. Company's like Bestek or Aldon Automotive (if still in business) can do this for you.

A lot less complex.

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Maybe, but outdated. The OP wants to move forward not stick with 'cart and horse' technology - it may still work but doesn't mean something better is available!

The funny thing is, it all sound so much better but when you measure those "horses" looks like all still the same, no increase. If you are not chasing emissions, still working with carbs anyway I would spend the money and effort on other parts that does make more horsepower. And most important, keep it simple and reliable.

There is a programmable dissy. I think Aldon sell a version of it. Best of both. Maybe

the one you are thinking of Wildo is Aldon amathyst. It uses the dizzy with locked advance mech as a switch only.
Different types available with sensor for MAP or use a TPS. Both give 3D map but keep the dizzy.

found it
http://www.123ignition-conversions.com/

or try

http://www.123ignition.nl/


but they don't quote pinto. Can't find it on aldon although i am sure they did do something similar :dunno: maybe i was just imagining it .

No experiences with this Aldon modules but if it does work, it is a very nice compromise. Specially for those who have plans to optimize the advance on a dyno and not have the equipment to change there mechanical advance system. I once did bought a similar system but was not working as it should, they are no longer selling this box. I guess Aldon did more research.

MSD also sells a capacitive ignition and programmable. For serieus sparks, this can be a good option. Work with Ford distributor.

I do not recommend any of the 123/IGN systems, from one day to the other I've seen spark mistakes, big enough to avoid them. Sparks and dwell do not match what you are asking for. Advance jumping up and down 5° - 10° at steady RPM and advance retard of 20 up to even 30° are "normal" under fast acceleration. At the same time, dwell minimise less then half the loading time. I've noticed this problem for at least 50% of the distributors I've tested.

If you have to replace an English Lucas, I would use CSI. Also from Holland but I've not seen any spark mistakes so far. No I'm not selling or dealing these ignitions, I build my own distributors, but is what I've seen from customers engine arriving at my workshop. CSI does not build Ford Pinto distributors for as far as I know.

Guys, thanks for all your all input and suggestions, its given me a lot to think about and many hours on the internet researching all the alternatives.

I'm almost sure that I'm going to go with the Nodiz Pro, trigger wheel kit or home made not decided yet. However, one more question if I may, where to place the ECU inside the car or inside the engine bay? Any experience of it being in the engine bay and where did you mount it to keep it clear of dirt and water. The only place I can think of is on top of the inner wing, but its so long since I've driven the car I've forgot how wet it get there.

Whilst I was searching around I found this.

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=273584

And as much as I like Clints trigger wheel kit for fitting to a Pinto, I would personally prefer to have the crank sensor on the inlet side of the engine, then run the Nodiz inside the car through the bulkhead.

I've just bought a Nodiz, though I've no idea how long it'll take me to get it up running as the car is still in about a million pieces.

Interesting read.

I have currently the same situation, but with a Megajolt install. I converted the Megajolt to TPS since I'm running IDF's but asking myself the same questions. I would prefer installing the trigger wheel from behind the front pulley to I can change the belt without adjusting the sensor everytime, but still scratching my head how to create the brackets for the sensor and the TPS.

I've been in contact with Harris Performance. They do make a sensor bracket that uses the standard Cosworth Crank Position Sensor that works with their multi-v pulley kit and trigger wheel. You can see pictures of it on their web site but its not listed for sale as a separate item on their web site.

I've asked about the possibility of standard single-v pulley wheel and trigger wheel to work with the same bracket and sensor. Hopefully I'll have one soon to try. Its now the only part I need to start my car after a 16 year rebuild.

Meanwhile I found this one on fleebay, but not sure if it can be used with the single groove pulley:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/COSWORTH-CRA...AAAOxyXDhSio6E

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9qAAA...6E/s-l1600.jpg


https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ruEAA...PI/s-l1600.jpg

I've looked at that one before. It has the drawback that the timing mark on the engine has to be machined off to enable it to fit. I did think about putting another mark on the pulley and the engine somewhere so I could use it, but that's beyond what I was comfortable with, I'm all for PNP.

Spoke to HPE yesterday and mine should be with me hopefully by the end of next week. However it will not be for now with an alloy pulley, production delay. What they are doing for me in the interim is machining a standard pulley to take their trigger wheel, bracket and sensor setup. I believe I should be able to change to one of their alloy pulleys at a later date should i want to without any further modification. When I have it I take some photos before and after its installed.

Fitting an alloy front pulley is 2 steps back. 1, they worn out must quicker (belt slip) end 2, de pulley should be heavy to damp out unwanted crank vibrations. Late style with rubber damper are the best.