Pinto engine and camshaft to choose

Hi! I ‘m restoring my old Cortina and now I am going to rebuild my Pinto engine, specs so far are:
V6 Pistons
Head flowed with 45,5 inlet and 38,1 exhaust valves
Kent FR 32 kit
YB Cosworth rods
high pressure oil pump
4-2-1 exhaust manifold
free flow exhaust
Twin Weber DCOE 45s with 38mm chokes
Fast Road vacuumless distributor
T9 GearBox and 4,1 final gear

I m thinking about to change FR32 camshaft with Kent GTS1 , has anyone ever tried it with similar engine spec?
what power output should I expect?
my rev limiter will be set at 7000 rpm
does anyone has any Dynos chart of a pinto withGTS 1 camshaft?
what is your opinion?
Car is for road use and this is the reason that I am trying to choose a camshaft between FR32 and GTS1

:-)

140-150 bhp if theres nothing wrong with your fr32 just re use it i cant see a gts1 giving a lot more power

You’d be better with an fr33 or RL31 I’d looking for improvement over your FR32

I m planning to fit long inlet manifold (6”) for my DCOE s
and long ram pipes to get as much torque as possible
After some calculations I ve made
my intakes total length is perfect for up to 7000 rpm

I have found over the internet some Dynos charts from setup with FR32 and I want to see how GTS1 camshaft performs Over the rev range

Quote:

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Originally Posted by madmaxptt

I m planning to fit long inlet manifold (6”) for my DCOE s
and long ram pipes to get as much torque as possible
After some calculations I ve made
my intakes total length is perfect for up to 7000 rpm

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I’d say it’s more how good your heads flows that will determine where it makes power

Quote:

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Originally Posted by madmaxptt

I have found over the internet some Dynos charts from setup with FR32 and I want to see how GTS1 camshaft performs Over the rev range

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You'll find the GTS1 is a copy of another Cam design by another company just like the GTS3 and 4 are.

Cam manufacturers keep changing cams and adding to their catalogues not because the cams neccesarily give more power or torque but to ensure they keep selling different ones to us to save going out of buisness. There are only so many profiles for a Pinto engine and most are already tried and tested.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by madmaxptt

I have found over the internet some Dynos charts from setup with FR32 and I want to see how GTS1 camshaft performs Over the rev range

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Needles trying to compare dyno graphs, all heads will be different so is power output and head is more important as the cam.

RL31 will be the fastest cam still giving torque and giving zero tuning problems. Can't say it is a "road cam" to me but always working. Piper BP 300 and Newman Ph 4,75 will do exact the same.

38 choke will be to big for road engine. Specially for FR32

So you believe that RL31 worth it and I will notice the difference in performance compared with Fr32
About the rest of my engine's specs... is it going to work with RL31?

Definitely provided you have enough compression

Has anybody ever drive a car with RL31 at low rpm (<3000rpm)

Yes. You can make them pull cleanly from around 2500 with some careful tuning, they are fairly civilised below that with a nice idle, if you have a good head and use 36mm chokes an RL is a good fast road cam, 38mm chokes for more top end. If you want something a bit milder then go for an Fr33, my old engine saw 162hp on an FR, just didn’t have a huge amount of top end.

If you're v6 pistons aren't forged then you might want to think about some forged ones, depending on what cr you do end up with.
My v6 pistons run 10:79.1 cr, but that's over the realms of safety really.

I have 38mm chokes and 160mm inlet manifold with 150mm ram pipes
I believe with this combination I will have top end power (up to 7200rpm max with rev limiter) and low rev pulling power because of air/mixture speed of this to long intake! (Thank God there is enough room in Cortina engine bay

Your head is where the power is made or not. That’s where you need to focus with a Pinto, my inlet is shorter than that and I’m making max power 7700 - 8k

I have calculated the total length of my intake and it can work well up to 7300 higher than 7300rpm it will need to be sorter to work properly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by madmaxptt

I have calculated the total length of my intake and it can work well up to 7300 higher than 7300rpm it will need to be sorter to work properly

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forget trying to calculate intake length, there are just too many variables, pintos like long, the longer the better

http://media2.turbosport.co.uk/2013/...904_165401.jpg

Is this the length of inlet manifold you had in mind Madmax?

Attachment 84442

This is the inlet manifold (6,5"/160mm) but with long trompets 150mm

Attachment 84443

Jaysus they are long trumpets!

Pretty sure I've got an old inlet manifold about that long tucked away in the garage somewhere. Never been any use to me, only ever having the Escort..

its about having all parameters work. I have to figure out mine. But as for any engine, first is the cyl.head. where power is made.
Choose a road cam with about lobe centers around 110-112 for good smooth idle running. Most cam manufactors do have them
for road applications. Piper cams is good, Kent cams ok to. duration and camlift. Don't go overboard with this.
Tuning inlet and exhaust is if done right not an easy job. Testing and more testing on rolling road gives answers.
But if money is limited, go for so called fast road profile, and make the best out of it, again the cylinderhead is where it does the most.
No use if you put in a agressive cam, with poor flow. 3 inch inlet mani with your 45 dcoe and i would start with 36 mm chokes.
Tune with carb stacks not to short. Exhaust 4-2-1 is good gives more nice torque curve. But also here is tuning lenght and dia. of first, secondairy
pipes important. However i know, it is for most of us beyond our budget to get it tested all together. If possible make the manifolds
adjustable ( spacers for inlet ) ( sleeve on sections for exhaust ) for testing. Lot of work but can be done.

If everything is going to work ok I will post my engines dyno chart
I hope to get the following Results with this setup:
170-180 Hp
Great rpm range with a lot of torque (up to 220NM peak)

Then you need an RL31 cam minimum, possibly something more, in my experience an RL31 with a good head and 38mm chokes gives approx 165-170hp. Your FR32 will see 150hp on a good day

FR32 indeed would be to mild to get the output you want to see. RL31 or even stepping up to GP1 cam, but thats not just a swap of cams. Needs work
I dont think you get 180 hp from a rev limit set to 7000. Above that i'm not sure the V6 pistons are a good choice.
I'd go for torque, and 150-160 HP is a lot of go fast on road anyway.

My primary target is torque that's why I m going to install this long inlet and these long trompets, If I see a good HP peak also it's OK
I like torque more than bhp because car is much faster going from A to B point

If you want torque go the other way FR30 cam, plenty of grunt from next to no all rpm!

I already have an FR32 but it s like a limiter to my engine
So I decided to install RL31 with these long trompets and long inlet so I will raise bhp and torque
Fr30 is a very good camshaft for an engine with stock 32/36DGAV and max 6000-6300 rpm

Madmax: then it would be ok, but the hp figures you were after is going a bit enthousiastic. That is what Erikmex said before. And then what i mentioned the ( standard? ) pistons of a V6
how far they do endure the stresses applied. ( can not remember now the strenght of conrods of the OHC Pinto ) but the stock Pinto crank well balanced holds up to 8000 rpm.

Madmax: then it would be ok, but the hp figures you were after is going a bit enthousiastic. That is what Erikmex said before. And then what i mentioned the ( standard? ) pistons of a V6
how far they do endure the stresses applied. ( can not remember now the strenght of conrods of the OHC Pinto ) but the stock Pinto crank well balanced holds up to 8000 rpm.

sorry about double post, the site loads very slow last 3 days, waiting for 30+ sec. to load.

I will use YB stock conrods
I am going to use the car for Fast Road application not for race, I hope that V6 stock cast pistons are going to handle the extra stress

I will use YB stock conrods
I am going to use the car for Fast Road application not for race, I hope that V6 stock cast pistons are going to handle the extra stress

Cast pistons are okay but don't go mad on compession, no more than 10.8.1 in my experence and make sure your fuel and ignition is bang on.

As a matter of interest what method are you using to secure the gudgeon pins into your YB rods?

Cast pistons are okay but don't go mad on compession, no more than 10.8.1 in my experence and make sure your fuel and ignition is bang on. As a matter of interest what method are you using to secure the gudgeon pins into your YB rods?

My mechanic has done it many times, I don't know how
For ignition and fueling I 'll install wideband and check on dyno also .
for max ignition timing we will do some test to see maximum advance and rpm range to be sure

My engine has 60thou Mahle cast pistons with maxspeeding H beam rods and teflon button's to hold the floating pins in place. Toyota quad throttle bodies and a 1.6l head i ported with big valves . Im making 150hp at 6300rpm and 192NM at 4800rpm . i have 10.9 to 1 comp and my inlet tract is about 14 inches from trumpet to head. Im interested to see how yours turns out as im considering upgrading to a kent RL31 instead of the CROW 26661 very similar to a FR32.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by madmaxptt

My mechanic has done it many times, I don't know how
For ignition and fueling I 'll install wideband and check on dyno also .
for max ignition timing we will do some test to see maximum advance and rpm range to be sure

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How did the build go ? Is your engine running ?

I haven't rebuilt my engine yet because I am restoring my car completely.
When I test the engine I will inform you!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by madmaxptt

I haven't rebuilt my engine yet because I am restoring my car completely.
When I test the engine I will inform you!

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Thank you.