Duratec build options

I have replaced a Duratec in my Fiesta ST (big end knock) and thought I can rebuild this and put it in my Fisher Fury.
my thoughts are to do the minimum to it initially with the option of mild supercharging later.

First question is what is the max revs/bhp a standard Duratec will take?

What cam choice for a standard engine in a very lightweight kit car (650 Kg)

If I was to supercharge a standard engine would standard cams be better than the fast road ones?

Are the cheap plenum son eBay an option if I’m going to supercharge?

Plenty more question to follow

as standard weakest link seems to be the rods, std cranks will survive over 9000rpm.
standard with just induction and exhuast they will make 200bhp at something like 7000 rpm.
cam choice is very personal, im currently doing a top end rebuild on a pinto from a westfield, but i cant decide which cam, with a standard cam and head it already has more grunt that the car can put down to the road, if i give it more torque it will be worse, but i cant fit a cam which will make it rev as the bottom end is standard

std cams would be better if supercharging

Thanks for the info, if I change the cams I’ll keep the old ones for that supercharging moment.

Having experience with Kit Cars and Pinto’s I’m surprised the Westy is struggling to put down standard Pinto power, I would imagine it’s down to tyres and tyre pressure mostly then it’s aboutshocks springs and geometry.
I run 2 Pintos in one of my kit cars ( not both at the same time) 130bhp and 160+bhp and you can’t unsettle it easily unless it’s very cold or wet. The Toyo CF2’s I ran we’re good but even in the dry I had to drive like a maniac to get them warm enough then they stuck, that’s why so many run super sticky tyres.
Depending on tyre size as most run 13”14”15” 185 front rear sometimes 205 rear the tyre pressures are critical and usually no more than 22psi.
Cams I’ve used are FR32 and RL31 I found the FR32 good for the road but you need a rev limiter, something Between the two would be an ideal compromise but your the expert Graham I’m just giving you some of my expetience

Biggest issue ive heard of with Duratecs aside from the weak rods are the timing gears slipping at high revs, i would look to having the crank machined with a keyway for the timing gear

I had forgotten about the crank cam drive setup.
I did a new chain set on the engine I’m going to rebuild and agree the twin friction washers on the crank chain drive and the singles on the cam drives scare me. I’ll look at getting the crank cut for a keyway and investigate the cam drives assuming I would need verniers for any new cams installed.

Looking at available cam verniers they use a simple dowel or roll pin to secure the verniers, I would assume I would keep the friction washers as a bit of belt and braces.

I wouldnt imagine a roll pin would be a good idea, i think id be going for a hardened solid dowell pin.

Erikmax, good point I’ll look into that

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snapper1

Looking at available cam verniers they use a simple dowel or roll pin to secure the verniers, I would assume I would keep the friction washers as a bit of belt and braces.

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the thing here is roll pins and dowels are not intended to take the load they are there for location purposes only, they they may be a back up but that is not there primary purpose.

i couldnt begin to tell you how many crank pulleys and key ways ive seen trashed because a crank pulley bolt wasnt done up properly.

the reason pinto flywheels need dowels in extreme applications is the standard bolts dont clamp well enough to stop the flywheel moving, nine bolt cosworth cranks have no such problem.

Even so, and even just for location, dowells are better.

I assume you still time them up on the standard tool . Then add the verniers mark and drill the cams for the dowels. Or do performance cams come with dowel holes drilled.

Then once installed you can fine tune the timing.


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