This was a 183bhp run, and Troy continued mapping for another 15 mins which finally realised 198.9bhp
This was a 183bhp run, and Troy continued mapping for another 15 mins which finally realised 198.9bhp
Yep, that power curve confirms it wants more revs alright! Steve Broughton managed 205bhp on standard internals at 7,250rpm, the standard cams aren't up to much more than that. A pair of cams should see you up to about 215bhp.
That power to weight is insane, nearly as much as Matt's Escort!!
And I'm on standard gearbox, so a set of straight cut gears would see at least a couple more BHP.
That's going to be a wicked motor in such a light shell :thumb:
Got any dyno graphs at all?
Didn't see the next page :D
Few more hours on the rollers and it'll all be smoothed out and running 200+ bhp.
We used my Zetec map as the basis, and it showed the inadequacies of the map
Got to move the header tank hose, on to the thermostat housing inlet pipe, and I need to order a shorter driveshaft so we can get the castor and camber on the nearside front. So not quite ready to drive, but getting closer.
Funds are a but ltd at the moment so i'll spread the costs over a few months.
The overriding thing is that my install worked. Just a few minor adjustments and she'll be chasing Matt's times for sure.
Brillaint results Gray and well worth the wait, a real milestone reached, I know there's not much of summer left (if at all judging by this weekend) but it won't be long before you are shedding rubber and enjoying your car again. Nice one mate :thumb::clap:
ps I might be looking to upgrade mine to a newer spec, you interested in 300hp?
By the way how much does the duratec weight?
Pretty damn light, this is Matt holding his fully assembled engine!!....
Is he competing in them strong man contests? I mean you can lift one but to carry it around in your lap is another thing.
:D :D :D no mate he doesn't want to be embarrassed by some of your Finnish behemoths!! :thumb:
I reckon the Duratec is around 15-20Kg lighter than the Zetec, given my car is 20Kg lighter with the Duratec + larger capacity alloy radiator, and carbon bonnet fitted.
And the Zetec E was quoted 236lbs somewhere in the web.... But still not a fact I dont kno'w in what trim / with which equipments the engine weights were quoted.
So 100KG's ? This behemoth would not like to carry it around on my arms:D
But would not be so bad under the bonnet though. Still 20kg heavier than the baby Zetec.
Which I would agree with, having lifted both engines up.
Trax on Sunday. Anyone else going? I'm on the Fast Ford magazine stand.
Trax was superb yesterday. Thousands of people drifted past the Fast Ford stand in the main paddock area (opposite Fast Car magazine), and mine, and Jamie Going's Space Shuttle specificaiton Escort Mk3 were on the stand, with a few other familiar cars.
Jamie spent £18.5K on the Hewland 6speed Touring Car spec gearbox, which is more than my car is worth, so I hope he gets it finished off and running before it all just erodes away. I personally think the install needs a lot of work to bring it up to scratch, but thats the perfectionist in me.
I drove mine for the first time since it was mapped, from the paddock to the trailer park, and I gave it some beans on the bridge over the track, and it broke traction so easily that I'll have to get the slipper installed and the box rebuilt or I'll never get the power down.
I've ordered new hoses this morning from SFS, and I'm now on the lookout for a small alloy header tank to fit on the drivers side, and the VW header tank will be replaced by the Mocal oil breather bottle on the passenger side.
Engine bay is looking far neater now I've trimmed and painted the gearbox cradle (as per KP's suggestion). With the header tank removed, it'll look even better, and I'm just left with ordering a new 30mm shorter driveshaft and air filter element, and she's good to go for some more mapping, suspension setup, and then track time. Cant wait!
I have one of these header tanks if its any use to you. I bought it for the cossie but then managed to get a Bailey one for a good price so this is just sat in the garage.
Its one of these; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Looks too tall....
How much David?
I've measured the gap, and thats going to be too tall I'm afraid. Thanks anyway.
Found that Forge do a Renault 5GT tank which looks perfect.
Or they do a square one 150mm tall with either style cap ..
Ordered one of these
Ordered a pair of new Tri-lobe joints from M-Sport, so I can send one off to Commercial Propshafts so they can finish off the shorter axle bar.
The snapper from Fast Ford has been in touch and we're planning on using Shelsley Walsh for the photo shoot at the end of September. Just need to clear it with MAC on Monday.
Header tank has arrived
And the 500mm long 32mm ally pipe to connect the rad to the inlet
Plumbing it all together tonight.
Header tank install started (Tuesday evening). I'll complete it over the next few days.
as always , ultra neat!
All plumbed in.
New Header tank now on the drivers side.
32mm alloy pipe now runs across the width of the radiator, saving a bit of weight in the process.
safer than a bit of flexible pipe drooping across there too .
I know, that looked a bit gash too.
Here she is with water/anti-freeze mix loaded, and the airhorns back on again.
I'll run the engine up to temp tonight and bleed the system.
Ran the engine, but I'm still stumped by this odd cooling problem.
Header tank is now plumbed in to the thermostat housing, and when the engine is running, I get a constant stream of water being returned back to the header tank, from the 8mm pipe I've run from the outlet on the gearbox end of the head. (item 8 on the diagram below)
The bypass pipe is still connected. This allows water to circulate in the head prior to the thermostat opening.
But from cold, the engine warms up quickly, then the temperature continues to creep above 95 degrees, at which point the ECU turns the fans on. But the radiator is stone cold. The outlet pipe on the end of the head is hot, and the header tank contains very hot water. But the engine doesnt seem to want to draw cold water in from the radiator.
When I revved the engine, the water temp dropped to 80 degrees, and started to creep back up to 95 again. I couldn't repeat this, and I suspect it was an air-block which was cured by revving the engine.
Any ideas? I've bled it, the header tank is full, when I rev the engine the temperature seems to drop and stays at a sensible temperature. But when it idles, the temperature seems to creep higher and higher.
It should isotherm around 90 degrees shouldn't it?
Do I need to block off the large diameter bypass hose off, on the front of the block? Do I just leave the system to pressurise itself, and it then sorts itself out?
Is there an eejets guide to cooling systems somewhere as I'm confused.
I suppose I should let it cool down, and try again a few times from cold, to see if the problem persists.
This is the Ford diagram for the Fiesta ST cooling.
I can't help you with your immediate problem there Graham, but perhaps a good excuse to go for an electric water pump system? I'm not sure if that changes the plumbing etc though? Give Steve broughton a call, I'm sure he'll probably be able to help you out.
I think thats the next step, but for now I'll focus on trying to repeat the problem from cold.
It could have been a one off. Doesn't appear to circulate water from the radiator unless its revving, so at tick over it starts to over heat. This is what it was doing at the rolling road, over heating at tickover, as Troy had to keep revving the engine to get the temps to drop. We put that down to the header tank setup, which I've now changed.
Its back on the trailer ready for the photoshoot trip to Shelsley on Thursday, so I'll have another try then.
At least it doesn't leak 8-)
not knowing on what is your problem, but I do like the EWP80's.
Used them on 3 engines and the only problem I have seen on them is when another Caterham owner put one on his Duratec and did not remove the belt driven pump, ended up with cavitation and a shagged head.
My 270bhp engine has run for 5 years with the EWP80 without fault in temperatures up to 50+ ambient and 60+ track temp without problem. When first installed it dropped the temperatures at tick over by about 10 degrees. It also gives you a few horses by freeing up the belts
Do you have the air bleed from the highest point of the radiator to the header tank ? As shown in the pic. The tank should also be higher than the rad to let the air out. If the hose makes a dive and rises to the tank the air will not get out. The air will anly rise up.
I dont have any air bleed as such from the radiators.
I do have an 8mm rubber pipe that runs from the alloy coil pack housing on the end of the head, back to the header tank. (connecting 1 to 8 in the diagram).
With the engine running, and the lid off the header tank, there is a constant stream of water pumped out of the small rubber pipe, in to the top of the tank. I presume that this is OK? This must be the water being pumped around the cylinder head whilst the thermostat is in the closed position.
The header tank is well above the height of the top of the radiator.
And not a big thing to do. You could use this, self sealant take off.
Wrong type in the pic tho but you get the idea.
I have bled the radiators, by releasing the jubilee clips, which lets loads of water out (under pressure).
This is essentially, how it is now plumbed in.
Am I right in thinking that the green pipe in my diagram, is the return pipe that allows the coolant to circulate in the head? It is fitted on my engine, and is a 16mm rubber hose.
The radiator is split horizontally, so the water must travel around the radiator, with both the inlet and outlet on the same end.
And should I be seeing the volume of water travelling along the 8mm hose (top of the diagram) that I am? Once pressurised, would you expect this to stem to flow?
Yes the green hose lets the coolant trough the head even when the thermostat is closed and you need to see the flow of coolant to the header tank from the cylinder head.
But if your diagram is correct you need another air inlet hose to the tank. Drawn in red to the diagram.
Also I was wondering does your radiator get hot under revs and cool down while idling?
There may well be air in the system. And it will not come out by loosing the clips. The air may well only push the coolant out.
Or maybe, but VERY far fetched, the water pump can't draw water from the bottom hose with low revs.So maybe the bottom water hose needs to bee low. Alternative routing in grey. But this is highly unlikely the water should cisculate when theres no air in the system.
Here's how I did mine.
One 8mm hose to the top hose and one to the back of the head.
I have no heater bypass hose to allow coolant to the head while thermostat is closed so I drilled holes to the stath. I have water coming from the back of the head to the header tank.
If I'm reading your diagram correctly, then you've got the outlet from the thermostat feeding into the bottom of the radiator. If so then this could be the source of your problems, as the thermosyphon effect will be opposing the water pump.
Other things to check (probably daft ones but I'm just think-typing ;) )
Is the water pump spinning the right way?
Is the thermostat opening?
Also, try drilling a 3mm hole in the rim of the thermostat - this will help dissipate any air bubbles trapped behind the 'stat and possibly causing it to malfunction.
The cooling system still isn't running right at low revs. I'm going to drain it and remove the radiator again, and check the thermostat. I reckon there could be a bit of rag left in the block from when I had it all stripped down. It'll be something stupid for sure.
The car drove OK, though I did have to keep my eye on the temperature. I did about a dozen climbs up the hill, some at 20mph following the photographers car whilst Gerard shot pictures sitting in the boot, with a chap called John (aka RescueDude from Uphillracers.com) doing the driving. And then I did some high speed runs with the photographer stood at Bottom S, which gave me the opportunity to really see what she goes like. Fook me, its a completely different animal to when she had the Zetec. She just bursts in to life when I nail the throttle, and the car accelerates like mad. The Titans give it a fantastic throttle response. And the noise from the induction roar is awesome.
The shorter axle arrived on Weds, so I'll fit that over the next couple of weeks, and get her back to t Northampton Motorsport for a 2nd go at getting the wheels aligned. The existing axle is too long and stops the suspension from being adjusted.
The two steady bars I made for the engine, will need to be modified, as they use rod ends to locate them, and this is far too harsh, as when I lifted off and accelerated there was an awful lot of creaking from the bulkhead, so I'll have a rethink. I reckon stiff rubber bushes on one end of each tie bar would make it a lot nicer to drive. This is the first time I've had to really drive the car with some enthusiasm, and its definitely going to need some respect. Saying its Quick is an understatement.
The photographs that Gerard Hughes took, looked incredible. He uses a Canon EOS, with two external flash lamps for lighting, and the pics looked very dramatic on the camera screen. The deadline for the next issue was yesterday, so it looks like mine'll be on the one the following month.
I reckon she deserves to be a cover car, and the pictures that I saw were certainly worthy of a cover picture.
Big thanks to Midland Automobile Club for the use of the Shelsley Walsh hillclimb venue. If you've never been, you can pop in at any time during the day, and after gaining permission, and have a walk up the hill. The steepness has to be seen to be believed, and its by far and away, the best hillclimb venue in the UK. The new watermill and restaurants are looking fantastic.
Gerard setting up for some shots in the paddock.
Good news on the feature, I'm sure it was Gerard who shot my Capri for CF 3 years ago.
I'm just wondering (before I strip the radiator down) if the thermostat housing that Adamb sent me, requires a different thermostat to the original.
It is the same part as this one on www.part-box.co.uk, which comes with an 82degC thermostat, but I re-used the factory thermostat when I fitted the replacement housing.
They sell it as a thermostat AND housing, so I wonder if I should have changed the thermostat too.
And why would there be an 82C thermostat? I thought they were normally 88C.
Removed the radiator. The top of which had a lot of air trapped inside.
The thermostat housing in the block is clean with no foreign objects inside.
The thermostat opens in near boling water, though it does not have any markings on it so I don know what temp it is supposed to operate at.
None of the hoses are blocked.
I still need to flush the radtec radiator through, and check for blockages, but i now reckon its caused by the buildup of air in the top of the rad so I'll add a second bleed hose that will run from the header tank to the top hose, or something thereabouts.
Interestingly, adamb has the same issue with his 2.0 Duratec, though he has now swapped for the 82c thermostat. He was running an underdrive pulley on his pump, and reverted to a std pulley due to the pumps inability to circulate water at tickover (exacerbated by the slower running speed with the underdrive pulley). He also went for a larger capacity radiator incase it wasn't already up to the job.
If I run an electric pump, where does it plumb in to the system, as the thermostat surely blocks any flow until it has opened, and the mechanical pump is in the perfect place to pump water round already.
I believe you found your problem.
The green hose in your diagram allows coolant to circulate past the thermostat. IF you need more water to circulate when the thermostat is closed then drill a 6mm hole (or two) in to the thermostat flange.
Electric water pump plumbs between the thermostat housing and lower water hose.
have you not got anyone that could TIG a small outlet onto the top corner of your rad? driver side, fed straight back into the header tank.
I made a simple outlet to replace the plastic thermostat housing (which was fine on the Caterham)
I found it best to remove the whole waterpump and make a blanking plate out of 7mm alloy with a bit of engine sealant to seal.
You can either run an electronic controller for the pump, that you buy from Davis Craig or run it on a switch, full time or a signal from your ECU.
I run mine full time as cold engines are really not an issue in Dubai.
I can get EWP80's pretty cheap here in Dubai, about 110 quid if memory serves me right, but would need to check. Am up in Heathrow in a week if you want one.
Yeah, I believe Matt's runs from the ECU Graham, the best part about that is that the water will circulate when the engine is off too. I think it eliminates the thermostat, you just use a temperature sensor instead. I think Matt has his plumbed into the water rail, but the config is slightly different on the RWD setup in the Escort.
Give Steve a call at SBD, he'll sort you out I'm sure.
See the pic below, at the back of the water rail on the left hand side you can see two sensors, the rearmost with the feed for the ECU, the one in front for the temp gauge.