There's also something to do for the cam tensionner. Standard is automatik. It has to be modified for a manual i think.
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There's also something to do for the cam tensionner. Standard is automatik. It has to be modified for a manual i think.
The British Sprint Championship meeting at Mallory on Sunday was a very poor turnout. Only 30 or so competitors. But the Superkarts more than made up for the lack of action. Blimey, they're quick.
I'll be crimping all the pins on tonight. I had to get a new chepao wire stripper, as the one I had in the toolbox, cut the wires as well as the insulation, which was a little unnerving.
Crimps all done. Just need to insert them (44) all through the IP67 rubber gasket, and document where they all go. Then I can slide the nomex sleeving back, and heatshrink everything.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20090908_1.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20090908_2.jpg
The wire stripper was new from RS, only a tenner, and well worth the price.
Nice work there Graham, I hate wiring! If I really take my time and do a neat job it's very satisfying but I've got limited patience when it comes to wires:D
Soon! Now I can turn my attention to the cockpit loom, which feeds the Dashboard, Datalogger, and ECU. And I have to include a control box, which will contain the relays and fuses, and switches to override cooling fans etc.
And I'm looking for some really good quality switches. So any suggestions, suppliers, etc, welcome.
Each wire is stripped, tinned, crimped, soldered, then pushed in to the connector housing. Took about an hour altogether. Each of the twisted pair cables has a flexible metal foil shield and an earth wire which provides additional shielding against interference. These will be terminated at the ECU, so the whole loom is fully shielded along its whole length.Quote:
Nice work there Graham, I hate wiring! If I really take my time and do a neat job it's very satisfying but I've got limited patience when it comes to wires
The nack is remembering to push the heatshrink and other bits on to the cable prior to crimping and inserting in the connector. Once all the pins are inserted, the sleeving and heatshrink can be slipped back in to place, and hey presto, one professional looking loom. PITA if you forget about a bit of heatshrink though.
Graham
I had always problems when the thermostat was inside my duratec. I did modify everything with a stat outside ( PRRT 82 ) and never have problems anymore. Road or tracks => always 80° :thumb:
Looks very nice and clean indeed.
Tidy :thumb:
Fitted the Kustom rear arms, having removed the rear hubs to fit the wheel studs.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20090921_1.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20090921_3.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20090921_2.jpg
Saved 1.7Kg in weight. The new arms weigh a combined 628grammes, and the TAS arms weighed in at 2.37Kg. Alloy panhard rod to follow.
Hubs will be drilled 12.5mm so the wheel studs can be fitted.
I found the rear wheel speed sensor had melted, from the heat build up on the rear disks. Time to have a rethink about its position and the position of the others for the ECU. (one on each wheel)
Dropped the rear hubs off at Altiss, and they'll be modified on the milling machine to ensure the PCD is maintained and they're at right angles to the hub. Not something I can do with my trusty Bosch.
Altiss had a 9.3L V8 in the workshop, twin turbo, will be producing 3000 BHP! Sitting in a lovely Buick? street legal Dragster. The heads were off and the cylinders were mahoosive.
not this is it?
http://www.freewebs.com/the-skyline/...victor%202.jpg
No, but I have seen that at Mallory Park, at the Retro Car show. What a monster!
Both my rear hubs cracked whilst being worked on so I need to look for alternatives now. I'm using Mk1 drums, which are turned down to form hubs, but being cast iron, are not the strongest basis for a hub (as we've just discovered).
Am now looking at taking my spare rear axle, cutting off the stub axles, and fitting either Focus or Fiesta Mk3 stub axles which are bolt-on. The idea is to use steel hubs, and I know the Focus comes with these, but not sure about the Fiesta. I'd prefer the Fiesta solution as the stub axles are less bulky and therefore lighter than the Focus parts.
I'll also change the rear calipers from Granny/Cosworth Sierra rears, to Golf calipers, as together with the brackets, it'll make a far lighter setup.
Got myself some Focus rear stubs/hubs/calipers, 2nd hand, and these will be fitted to my spare 'new' axle which I was keeping for a rainy day. Camber plates will used between the stub axles and the Fiesta axle, to adjust camber on the rear wheels.
Removed all the remaining wiring from inside the car last night, as well as the battery isolater switch, and the grp battery box. Looking rather bare now, but at least I can start on the layout of the new fuse/relay control box and other bits and pieces.
The Focus parts have just arrived :banana:
I'll get the spare axle and bits over to RPV asap
Glad to hear you good to go with the focus setup, makes a lot more sense than relying on the modified drums :thumb: Is the stub axle part of the rear axle then on these? If so will be nice and easy to just replace them with the plates like a focus has :thumb:
The Fiesta axle needs to have the stub axles cut off, and then the existing back plate modified for the Focus stub axles to simply 'bolt on'. I can then fit spacers, and camber shims to get the camber adjusted.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/260801_1.jpg
Also thinking about making the axle lighter. Maybe replacing the centre section with some aluminium tubing. Any thoughts. I dont run a handbrake, and the panhard rod mounting will be retained on the steel S section of the axle.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/260801_2.jpg
I thought you would of had coil overs on the rear,then you could cut the spring cups off.
Coilies on the Fiesta requires some other means of locating the rear axle to prevent it from rocking back/forth, which itself increases weight. Not sure, but I dont think any coil overs exist that fit and locate on the existing mounting points to do the same job as the originals.
Shudder - rust. The end product will look a lot better.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091001_1.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091001_2.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091001_3.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091001_4.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091001_5.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091001_6.jpg
Grahamb,
I have coilovers on the rear of rally car and they still mount to same place as the std dampers do and with no body mods ,just have to machine up a special top spring cup. i used a set of front bilsteins and put and extra piece on the bottom to use the normal damper bush.
I you want i can send you a pic of what i have done
Here are those pictures of the rear coilovers you wanted
http://media2.turbosport.co.uk/2008/...02DSC00001.JPG
http://media2.turbosport.co.uk/2008/...99DSC00002.JPG
http://media2.turbosport.co.uk/2008/...17DSC00003.JPG
Clever idea. So what does relocating the sprung weight from the reinforced floor, to the top of the unreinforced rear wheel arch do to the shell? Have you had to use different mountings at the top of the rear struts?
All i use is the original rear damper bushes,it does nothing to the shell but i do have a strut brace welded between the turrets on the car
The rear axle is coming along nicely. RPV are turning down Ford Focus disks to 6mm to suit the Hi Spec rear calipers, and removing all the unwanted metal from the axle.
Just ordered the bits for the oil cooler and oil filter install.
2 x -10AN 90 degree forged swivel-seal
2 x -10AN to 1/2" BSP Male/Male adaptor
3 Metres Pro-lite 350 Hose
4 x -10AN 90 degree tube swivel-seal
1 x 10 row oil cooler, wide
2 x -10AN cooler adapter
I'm ditching all of the stainless steel over braided hoses, as they're heavy compared to the Pro-lite 350, and not as flexible. And they take your paint off where the stainless touches the bodywork.
The fuel hoses inside the car will also be replaced, as they 'breath' and I'm fed up with sniffing fuel vapours all the time.
I'll stick all of the old stuff on ebay.
Once the above is installed, and I can get oil pressure, I'll plumb in the radiator.
Working on the design of the wiring control box inside the car prior to commencing the 2nd harness. Contemplating solid state circuit breaker to make it all tidier, and trip fuses that can be reset by pushing buttons.
OK, so the latest conundrum is one of clearance. I dont have enough space between the Eurospeed (Oz) oil filter take off plate, and the front cross member, to fit my -10AN 90deg hose ends.
I've enquired about male hose ends, but these dont come in BSP (the threads in the Eurospeed block are BSP), so I've ruled them out.
It looks as though I need to get a block of aluminium, to bolt to the engine block, that routes the oil galleries downwards at 90deg to the floor (vertical), with 1/2 BSP threads, so I can then use M-M adaptors and the 90deg hose ends I bought. [So it would replace the Eurospeed adaptor plate shown].
Anyone fancy doing a bit of CAD work for me? I need a CNC format file so I can get Altiss to machine this for me.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091013_1.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091013_2.jpg
Mocal remote oil filter housing, and sandwich plate, with two of the three sensors fitted.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091013_3.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091013_4.jpg
Can you not fit them to the plate with the plate removed, or is it right tight there? How about fbh'ing/chopping and plating the xmember further back or are those 2 holes for a mount of some sort?
Even if I fit the 90degree hose ends to the plate, and fit the plate, this doesn't allow for any movement of the engine, and I dont want them sitting against the cross member. 10mm clearance or better is desirable when dealing with oil fittings. Chopping the cross member is an option, but its a lot of steel to cut, and there are more elegant solutions I'm sure.
My fag packet drawing shows what I need.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/downl..._off_plate.pdf
If I could get someone to make an adaptor for me, of my design, to route the oil galleries down to the ground, then I could fit the fittings underneath. Sorted.
graham, what will you be using the car for? i thought it was a sprint car, so im suprised to see you running oil cooler mirrors etc?
Sprint / Hillclimb is its primary useage (as has been for the past 17 years.)
However, I do enjoy track days, and may also step up to Ford Saloon Car champs in the next few years. Or even the one you race in Graham, depending on finances. So mirrors and oil coolers would be fitted for those events. At the moment, she has no mirrors (and hasn't since 2005) nor handbrake etc, so weight is kept to minimum.
Ignoring the above, I still need to plumb in the remote oil filter housing, so if we can get back on 'track' :cool:
Karl at Kustomengineering in the USA is working on an adaptor block for me. He has the outlets on the top, and I've asked for a vsn with them underneath (to aid CofG)
Login as guest, no password.
http://www.3diw.com/login.asp?u=273a3&f=44435290
Removed the Rutland -ve camber rear axle last night, which is now Sold, along with the Fiesta Centre disk conversion, cossie calipers etc.
Fitted the 1bar low oil pressure sender to the sandwich plate.
I cant seem to get either the 1/2 BSP or the 1/2 NPT adaptors to screw in to the Mocal oil filter housing. The BSP adapter screws in approx 2 turns then stops, and the NPT adapter only around 1 turn. I reckon its a BSP filter housing, but the threads aren't tapped correctly.
I had this problem before, with the 1/2 BSP -8 adapters. I could never get them to screw in far enough to squash the O-ring, but it didn't seem as bad as it is with these -10 adapters. I'll either shorten the adapters and chamfer the ends, so when its in it butts up against the mocal housing, or get myself a 1/2 BSP bottom tap from BernieSwiss (Ebay) and tap the threads properly to take the full adapter length.
Ah, its an NPT housing, hence the BSP's never fitted that well (though they never leaked). Not liking the fact that the 1/2 NPT adapter sits so far out of the filter housing, so I'll retap it to 1/2 BSP using a bottom tap.
Graham,
If it's a normal Mocal Remote filter head, from memory it is probably -10 in the filter head as well which is an AN thread so neither NPT or BSP will fit.
I'm pretty sure it's a parallel thread in the housing where the NPT is a tapered thread which will explain why it doesn't go in very far. Be careful just running a tap down the hole as you could end up with very little thread left and end up firing it out under heat and pressure and wrecking your nice shiney engine in nano seconds.
The adaptors should screw all the way in to the Hex with a dowty seal or ali washer behind the hex head to do the sealing.
HTH
'Sok, I've confirmed from the model number that it's an 1/2 NPT housing Matt. Fear not, it'll be done right. I did try the -10 fittings, but they dont even go in the ends of the housing.
Wired up the heavy duty cable to the starter motor and alternator last night, and tonight I'll run the wires round for the two alternator wires (charge and +12V), and the starter solenoid, and the two electric fans, and the electric water pump (though I've not fitted one yet).
Sold the rear axle and disk conversion last night, which is another £310 in the kitty. I weighed the rear axle, and the complete assembly, including pads, disks, hubs, calipers, came to a whopping 26.5KG. I hope the Focus axle conversion doesn't weigh a lot more.
The 1/2 BSP tap came in the post. Tapped one of the holes, and the other will be done after the kids are in bed. Wifeys out with the Girls tonight so I get extra time in the garage tonight. Yeah.
The 1/2 bsp and npt are both 14tpi so tapping npt to bsp is very easy. Plenty of metal left in the threads. No worries about the Adapters coming out.
Retapped the threads in the Mocal remote filter housing, from 1/2 NPT to 1/2 BSP. I may turn the housing through 90 degrees to allow the sensors on the sandwhich plate to point forwards instead of towards the engine. Its a Capri 2.8 V6 oil filter, the extra capacity aids filtration.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091016_1.jpg
Drawing of adapter block with oulets on the underside, in solidworks, is nearly complete. If all goes to plan, will get the adapter plate CNC'd this week.
Re-routed the heavy duty battery cable, to the drivers side of the car, to make the engine bay look tidier. I need to go to Maplins tomorrow lunch time to get some heavier duty cable for the twin Spal radiator cooling fans, as they both draw up to 4.3A when running.
Solidworks model of the Duratec oil adaptor block is now complete, and Karl is producing a 2D drawing so I can get one made in the UK.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictu...side_front.png
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictu...nside_rear.png
More wiring - when will it ever end? Arghhhhh.
Tested the starter motor solenoid last night, to see how much current it would draw, and it blew a 10A fuse. With the ammeter in line, it draws anywhere from 12.5 to 15A! And thats just the solenoid! Who'd have thought it would require that amount of current, but then it does come in with a hell of a clunk when it fires.
I've made new looms for the radiator cooling fan and electric water pump wires, and I've included a heavy duty cable for the starter solenoid (25A). The wires for the alternator are also included, and I'll tidy it all up tonight.
No joy on the adapter plate machining front as yet. I'm trying to get a few quotes before I leap in.
BTW Maplins stock feck all of any real use, so I bought the cable on line from VWP. 8-)
im not suprised on the starter solenoid current, just look at the thickness of that wire when it comes off the back of an ignition switch, which is why these days lots of cars have them wired through a relay
I'm glad I double checked Graham. Could've been embarrasing. The starter switch is going to be in the same box that houses the power relays, so I'll make sure I relay the starter solenoid in too. The spark from the wires made me jump. I thought I'd shorted the battery out. 8)
Nearly finished the wiring. Doesn't feel like I'm getting anywhere at the moment, but I'll not lose sight of the goal.
I've been quoted 15 hours to machine the adapter from the 2D print, so I've gone back to see if I can get hold of the 3D CNC model instead, which would drastically reduce the costs.
PM sent
Most sub-contract machinists charge around £40 an hour just for machine time, so I can't imagine that would be cheap Graham?
Matt's dead handy on a mill mate, he wont let you down :thumb:
Spoke to Matt yesterday, and sent him the 2D print. Karl in the USA is going to send me the 3D drawing and output file, so I can get it CNC'd properly.
Finished the battery cable + alternator + radiator fan and starter motor loom last night. All Nomex'd up and heatshrunk. I'll feed it inside the cockpit tonight, and start work on the inside of the car at last.
The front suspension is being produced this week :thumb: (Karl again!) and so I can get the car off the Rutland setup, and on to the new setup when it arrives. Then I can measure the drive shaft lengths and get them fabricated to Gp A spec.
The Croft Sprint at Easter 2010 is the first event. I'm hoping to be at least a couple of seconds a mile quicker than before. :tongue: I need to from the list of mods Matts done to his Duratec Escort.
Lots of boxes of bits waiting to be bolted on, but with any project, its a case of getting the 'timing' right. :pray:
Graham, if you do end up needing to get it CNC machined then let me know. I have a lot of old contacts in the sub-con engineering industry, some of which I get on with very well so might be able to get it done for you less expensively.