167-9641 0-19 way chassis mount socket 13A/30A
167-9607 19/0 way metal ring cable plug
273-5556 Heat shrink rear housing,Shell size 16
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167-9641 0-19 way chassis mount socket 13A/30A
167-9607 19/0 way metal ring cable plug
273-5556 Heat shrink rear housing,Shell size 16
Designed a dash for the car over the weekend. Off to fibre-lyte to get it made in carbon.
http://img124.yfrog.com/img124/6616/1r4w.jpg
It'll incorporate a cooling fan in the top, to demist/blow air on to the windscreen, drawing warm air out of the box.
nice idea :D
Called Fibre Lyte this morning, and I'm waiting for them to confirm the price and turnaround for the cockpit dash.
Ordered the oil this morning, Sunoco 10W60 from Anglo American Oils. Special price of Ģ85 inc VAT and delivery for 2 x 5l cans.
http://www.aaoil.co.uk/
why Sunoco , instead of , say Cstrol Edge sport 10w60?
Never been a fan of great Castrol. Used to make my CVH XR2 smoke like a chimney.
Sunoco, nothing wrong with them, and the oils good value at that price too.
Posted the dashboard off to Hansell Composites last night, so it should be back with me in two weeks time. It'll be finished in matt carbon. Should weigh feck all hopefully.
Sleeved the remaining rear loom last night, and its now all terminated at the control box, waiting to have the connectors crimped on the ends. Its all getting tricky now. You have to have the right pieces of heatshrink and sleeve in place, in the right sequence, so there's no bare wires left on show. The devils in the detail 8-)
Spoken to John at Fostek today, and he's unable to make any driveshafts for me, but has given me the name and details of a company who can. So I've been in touch and they're going to call me tomorrow to discuss costs/lead time etc.
Spoken to the propshaft company, and they can make me a 'axle bar' for the drivers side, made from 300M impact resistant motorsport grade steel, for Ģ295. The nearside GpA spec custom driveshaft will be retained, and I'll change the near side output cup on the IB5+ gearbox for the earlier BC type cup, which means I can stay with the RS1800i trilobe joint on the original shaft. Saves having to fork out for two driveshafts. 8-)
The Sunoco 10W60 arrived this morning. That'll be poured in tonight, ready for me to crank her over and make sure that the oil adapter plate, lines, and remote filter + sandwhich plate + sensors, doesn't leak. I need to work see which of the two holes on the front of the adapter plate is the outlet, so I can connect the remote oil filter plate up the right way around. Or does it really matter?
Re-modified the rear brake/fuel pump loom last night, as I'd missed a bit of heatshrink out, so 15mins later it was all re-sleeved and sealed up again. x-)
Tonight I'll fit the main loom in the car, and sleeve it up, and connect it to the brake/fuel loom, as well as connect up the cable to the brake light switch. I'm feeling brave so I may plug a few things in and switch the isolator on, to see whats working 8-) Be nice to get the wipers 'wiping'.
Donīt want to sound like I think you do not know what your doing by asking this. Really don't take this the wrong way. But isn't 10W60 a bit thick oil for the close tolerance duratec engine? I used that grade in a Pinto.
And have been adviced (by Opie oils) to use the original 5w30 viscosity Motul racing oil with the Sigma engine.
Would a Synthetic 10w60 not be more "runny" than a mineral based 10w60?
Would someone really use mineral oil in a serious racing aplication?
I used the Castrol TWS 10W60
I'm inclined to agree Graham, 10w60 does sound a little thick for the Duratec, I'm sure Matt uses a pretty low viscosity in his monster SBD engine. I'm sure he'll be along at some point.
I was wrong. Matt uses 10w60 Millers oil Graham, so you're spot on there fella.
Re: 10W60 - I asked first on the Duratec sub-forum, so its the combined knowledge from here that dictated what I bought. So you're all to share the blame if it goes pop 8-)
I ran 10W40 in my Zetec, and I'd only have 5psi oil pressure at tickover after 15 minutes queing and a flat out sprint round Cadwell, so I'm hoping the Duratec is better protected with the thick stuff.
Wired in the waterproof connectors for the rear wheel speed sensors last night, then placed the rest of the cockpit loom inside the car, and started to try to think of ways of tackling the two ECU connectors that I need to fit on the S80. Its not going to be much fun, sitting cross legged in the cold fiesta for a few hours, crouched over the ECU, cutting, crimping, sleeving, and heatshrinking. Still, its got to be done.
I may pre-populate the two connectors, and then simply join the wires from the connectors to the wires in the loom. That may be easiest given the confined space I have to work in.
Pete McKewan who does all of Racelines engineering development swears by 10W60, he was impressed that I managed to do so much mileage on my 2.3 Duatec on Mobil 1, but convinced me that the 10W60 is much better when he showed me some of the failure cases from Duratec Race engines built elsewhere
Damn you guys! Now you have me second guessing the 5w30 I was recommended.
Oh the decissions, decissions...
I guess the summers are quite similar to UK summers. But I'll have to gather more info on the Oils with sigma engines. Hopefully Derek at Mountune would let me in on what they used with the S1600 engines.
Different engines too. Sigma lump is the ST170 engine am I right? My brother used 5w40 in his N/A Cossie I believe, and that lasted a long time at high revs.
Sigma is the baby Zetec. All alloy 1600cc. Found in fiestas and Fucus'sand in the new Mondeo with VCT. It was a sigma based engine they used in Fiesta Super 1600 rally cars.
Shot of the interior tonight
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20100124_3.jpg
My Carbon Dash is finished! Hansell Composites are sending it today, so I may get it tomorrow. Even they think it looks fab. They've used a gloss finish on the front panel, and the rest is matt finish.
Finished the goddam wiring last night. No more wires to run inside the car. Now its just a case of crimping 70 or so pins on the ends of the bare wires, and inserting them into the connectors.
I cant emphasise how much I've enjoyed this part of the project, but I'm just so f*cking pleased thats its coming to an end, so i can move on (and get some bl**dy sleep again)
lol thats the joys of DIY! At least you know it's right tho . Re the 'screen demisting , do you think there's enough heat off the dash box?
Should think so, the rev counter and instruments certainly get warm. If not, I'll just stick a light bulb inside there LOL
The carbon dash arrived this morning. Just a phone pic for now, I'll get some more shots on the digital camera later.
http://img70.yfrog.com/img70/7840/i3pr.jpg
Hmm, lovely carbon fibre. It only weighs 680grammes.
Big up to Hansell Composites. Stunning job.
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk
And, I have power in the car now. The relays click when I throw switches and press the starter button. Its alive!!
Pics of the carbon dash
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20100129_1.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20100129_2.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20100129_3.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20100129_4.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20100129_5.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20100129_6.jpg
awesome!
has mike told you to join up to SBR?
Awesome work on the loom and dash Graham i used to work wiring fire engines and i have got to say having made looms for a couple of years for a living i would be very proud of what you have achieved:clap:Can i ask where you got your screened cable from and also the connectors,we used to use duetsch connectors on the fire engines very good connectors and easy to use unfortunatly i cant get hold of them anymore ,we used to use screened cable for the strobes aswell,wish i had saved some now:D
Thanks Jezz:thumb:
SBR? Do I get a free t-shirt?
Dash looks good
Thanks for the compliment Jezz, I am a bit of a perfectionist at heart, hence the lengths I've gone to do it right. I appreciate the feedback.
The STP cable is from www.rswww.com part number 528-2207
The connectors (I couldn't afford the crimping tool for the Deutsch range!) are made by ITT Cannon, and are from the Neptune range.
Again, from www.rswww.com part numbers 273-5382 and 273-5360 and the backshells are 273-5562
They come in size 24, and the smaller size 16. I've used the size 24's on the bulkhead and control box, and size 16 on the dashboard loom.
Here is the full range from www.rswww.com
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...uctNum=2735382
Gold plated pins throughout, for peace of mind too. 8-)
The smaller pins are rated at 13A and the larger ones at 30A
What are your plans enginewise? Tried to have look at the previous pages but could not find any plans.
This new BBS is really getting on my nerves now. I click "Reply", type in the reply, then accidentally click "Reply to thread" (bottom left) and it clears what I've typed. Urgh.
OK, so engine wise, stage one will be Cossie cams and followers, with ARP rod bolts and an uprated clutch, which should see (from what I've read) around 220BHP using the Titan TB's and the Tony Law exhaust.
Stage two, cash permitting, will be 260BHP, with wilder cams and a good bit of headwork.
Initially, though, before I spend anything on the engine, will be to keep the engine standard, and get it run in and on the rolling road. We'll take it from there, once cooling etc has been sorted.
The loom has provision for two sets of injectors, so I can always add another bank at a later date, if the fuelling becomes a problem.
This stage two you speak of will it still include STD bottom end? Can't be. Seems quit high output for standard bottom end an compression ratio.
For extra set of injectors Jenvey seem to sell ram pipes with holes for additional injectors. Propably the easiest way of adding injectors. But I'm pretty sure 4 injectors are good up to 300+ bhp.
Roadsport, the Duratec standard crank is good for 9,400rpm and 300+bhp, it's so well cast. 4 injectors has achieved 294bhp on SBD's Duratec's.
http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Duratec/Durat...ange%20kit.htm
Yep standard bottom end is fine particularily on the 2.0
Peter at Raceline got 300bhp on 4 injectors on a 2.3 and their DTH 48mm Jenvey's, this was on Mountunes dyno, so is pretty accuarate.
SBD and Raceline have been doing development on throttle bodies and they have just got 308bhp on 52mm (I think) ones that use 4 Dekka injectors I believe these are standard fitment on the Meganne Turbo.
Built the dash up last night. Still trying to find a cheap ST200 0-4-10000rpm rev counter.
http://img389.yfrog.com/img389/553/xa6d.jpg
The LEDs are from rswww.com but are no longer available. I bought them 8 yrs ago, but never fitted them. The black bevel suits the carbon really well.
The hole (bottom right) is for the traction control pot, which just needs trimming to length.
For the labelling, do you think white Letraset would stand the test of time?
Found a small clearance issue with the bottom two stack instruments, when the front panel is inserted in to the carbon dash, they lean downwards at the rear, and hit the bottom of the dash. So I'll space the front panel out slightly, no one will ever notice the difference.
Ordered the Stack ST200 from DT today, and another pair of red bonnet pins. I need to get the PT Carbon bonnet fitted so I can get the car down to SFS at Luton for the hoses to be measured up.
Crimped around 16 pins last night, and after an hour spent on my knees, could hardly move. Ouch!
hope you've knee pads mate , they're a lifesaver..
There's some kneelers in the back of the shed, so I'll get the torch out tonight, and brave the cobwebs. I've been kneeling on an old bath towel, folded up, but its not got much give in it. My ankles were hurting too. Working outside certainly takes its toll.
Almost finished the dash. 8-)
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20100203_1.jpg
Tacho turned up this morning, so I'll fit that tonight.
The small toggle switches I've used (for reference) on the front panel are from rswww.com
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/4480747.html
And the push button with the rubber cover (same type as used by Stack on their rev counter tell tale switch) is
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/1036280.html
and the rubber switch cover, sold seperately is
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/1036303.html
The LED indicators are 265-6829, 265-6807 and 265-6835 (all now discontinued)
Vehicle wiring products sells the same switch and cover, for about 3 times the price of RS ! I know, I bought one from VWP and it came in an RS bag with the part number on the outside. Doh!
Loads more crimping last night, almost ready to insert all the wires in to the control box connector housing, and start testing the power circuits/lights etc.
Fitted the stack tacho and switch, and moved the Ford emblem down.
http://img49.yfrog.com/img49/3223/nb5ql.jpg
Tonights project is to wire it all up.
Finished the control box connector last night. Now its the two ECU connectors to complete, and she's good to go!
The dash looks great, top work :thumb:
Must be nearly time for the big start-up now :pray:
Just need to finish the ECU connectors, test the ignition and injectors, plumb the radiator in, plumb the fuel lines for the throttle bodies in, connect a throttle cable, and it will run. 3-4 weeks top.
looks excellent, don't think I am going to be able to measure up to that standard, not even close
Praise indeed!
Lots of lovely dashboard spaghetti. Will finish it tonight (tues), and power it all up to test the instruments and LED's
http://img162.yfrog.com/img162/999/nyub.jpg
The amber alternator warning LED takes it power from the supply for the ignition coil, so the LED only comes on when the ignition switch is in the On position. The oil pressure and gear shift LEDs take their power from the main +12V feed for the dash, so these are always 'live'.
Stack heaven... Couldn't resist sticking it on the battery.
http://img131.yfrog.com/img131/2455/tqxr.jpg