Will do. Anything to keep the costs down...
I'll chase Rutland today to see how the rear axle is coming along.
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Will do. Anything to keep the costs down...
I'll chase Rutland today to see how the rear axle is coming along.
Axle should be ready next week. It just needs powder coating, and the caliper brackets need anodising.
I've got all the 3D stuff from Karl, what file do I need to get it cnc'd. An output file I assume.
Depends which format it was made in fella. What most programs will do will be to convert .swf files (this is solid works format) and create cutter paths from the 3D drawing.
Contact the sub-contractor and they'll tell you which file they'll need
I've 3 files
.sldprt
.slddrw
.igs
.sldprt and .slddrw are the respective Solidworks files for the 3D model and the accompaning 2D engineering drawing.
.igs (or IGES - Initial Graphics Exchange Specification) are files intended to allow a 3D model to be transferred between differing CAD programs.
As above, contact your workshop for the format they require. If they require it in a different format then you can email the .sldprt file to me and I can probably save it into the chosen format.
Firmly back on track now. Designing the dashboard, and all the interconnections required to link the following items together
DTA S80 (+12V supply) and all wiring from the engine bay + wheel speed sensors + traction and launch control signals from the Dash + connection to Lambda Sensor and Gear Lever for flat shifting
Dashboard housing Stack instruments + warning LEDs for Oil Pressure etc + switches for traction and launch control + gear position indicator + Race Technology Dash3 display (+ 12V supply)
Race Technology DL1 datalogger - for logging data from the engine over CAN via the S80 ECU, as well as driving the Dash3 display (+ 12V supply) and reading water temperature and oil pressure sensors from the engine.
Camera + Recorder (+12V supply)
Control box with main battery isolator, and relays and fuses for all peripherals. ie power to radiator fans, fuel pump, lambda sensor, wiper, dashboard, ECU, DL1 datalogger, etc etc. This will also house the main ignition and starter motor switches
Looking like a bit of a wiring nightmare at the moment, but I have to do it right for reliability.
Sent off the SolidWorks drwgs today, for the Duratec oil adapter plate, to a CNC company in Leicester, for a quote.
Looking for a carbon fibre cover for the engine bay, to go over the space where the bonnet release catch used to sit. I've had an ally plate stuck on there, but want to replace it (I've seen another Zetec'd Mk1 Fiesta with the same mod, and it looks ace)
Custom Carbon battery box arrived this morning.
http://img413.yfrog.com/img413/7818/j40.jpg
Wiring loom from bulkhead to ECU started.
http://img694.yfrog.com/img694/7487/qz2.jpg
I guess I'll need the MSA log book renewing, given its got a different engine in it now?
Hi Graham,
Where did you get the shielded cable from?
I'm having trouble finding any
I wouldn't bother - DVY's logbook originally said Cosworth, then when I sold her she was fitted with a Vauxhall, so this was written on the logbook, now she's back home with the Cosworth I've just crossed out Vauxhall and rewritten Cosworth :D - none of this has been stamped by the MSA, they're just interested in a change of colour or owner
Thanks
STP is from www.rswww.com part no 528-2207
Added in more wires last week, for the DTA ECU. Mounted on the dashboard, I'll have switches for Launch control on/off (push button), Traction control on/off (switch), Traction map dry/wet (switch), Traction aggressiveness %, which will be a 12 position rotary switch, with a resister ladder which effectively provides the analog input with 0 - 5V, in 10 steps of 500mV per step. This will allow me to rapidly select 0% - 100%, depending on the conditions on the day.
The feed to the dash now includes the above, and oil pressure, water temperature feeds from the engine for the Stack instruments, +12V and chassis gnd, +5V and sensor gnd for the traction control switches, tacho output from the ECU, and gear shift signal again from the ECU. Also has wires from the low oil pressure switch (1bar) and the alternator charge circuit. I dont think I've forgotten anything...
Should be getting my Duratec oil adapter plate this week, and the rear axle in another couple of weeks, as its away for powder coating and the caliper mounting brackets are being anodized.
I've refitted the manual battery isolator, and will be getting the stainless version of the pull cable, as mentioned earlier by Matt D.
hi Graham,
traction and launch control on the fiesta eh? thats gonna be mega with flatshift. Be interested what differenec it makes when you get it up and running as ive been toying with TC for mine for the damp/wet as slicks are hard work then, and the launch to make boost on the line. Does the DTA support ignition retard and more fuelling ie a switched launch map or simply a secondary rev limiter?
Carbon battery box makes you a tart though:D
Cheers
Craig
Scimitar turbo hilllclimber..
I recognise that Avatar 8-)
http://www.dtafast.co.uk/S_80_PRO.htm
The DTA S80 Pro has a spec as long as your arm. It does retard igntion, then it cuts cylinders if that fails to bring the car back under control. Needs four wheel sensors wiring in, but thats OK as my new focus rear end has ABS sensor pickups already present, so I just need to find a way of monitoring the front wheels safely.
You can also use the launch button to set the rev limit on-the-line for takeoffs. So if you want 3000 rpm, rev it to that and press the button. Its all configurable via the PC software. Damn complex to get it all working 100% though. I hear a skid pan or wet grassy field is the best place to perfect traction and launch settings.
DTA has just released a pit lane speed limiter function for the S80 with its latest firmware release. Handy for some...
Once you go carbon, I hear there's no going back. The quality isn't anywhere near as good as my Performance Trim carbon/honeycomb bonnet, but then that cost a lot more.
cheers for the info Sir, will take a look.
hope to see the latest incarnation of the motor at a hill next season:)
Started crimping the cockpit -> bulkhead connector crimps last night. 16 wires, down, only 30 to go. The loom is a little tight, so I'll remove the adhesive heatshrink under the Nomex to give it some more flexability. The new backshells I've found, use adhesive heatshrink to bond to the outer Nomex. Not tried them before, but they look a heap better than the 65mm long strain reliefs I used previously (and weigh a lot less)
http://img159.yfrog.com/img159/8792/ta5.jpg
Finished the cockpit bulkhead 48 way connector last night.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091120_1.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091120_2.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091120_3.jpg
Here's the battery box
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091120_4.jpg
Mil-Spec that is, what was wrong with snaplock connectors anyway
Mil spec? Nope, these are the same cheap ITT Canon Neptune connectors as before.
Not wasting money on mil-spec stuff.
wow. even the attention to detail in the loom is fantastic.:drool:
Excellent work there Graham, it must be a good feeling knowing that finishing jobs like that means your another step closer to being able to get out and race again :thumb:
keep up the good work
Ben.
That loom is fantastic, really making me want to do my engine loom again!
Do you get those ITT connectors from work?
I use similar AMP connectors at work, but the backshells are rediculously long, these on the other hand look very suitable!
Thanks Jason, re-wiring the car is not a job I'd embark on unless you were upgrading something.
Looking at the gauge of wire used in your control box, I'd probably re-wire that using Thinwall cable, as it does look a tad on the 'heavy-duty' side. I cannot fault the construction however. Very nice. I hope my new box comes out looking half as good. :thumb:
The backshells are made by ITT Cannon, and are also from WWW.RSWWW.COM Part number is 273-5562, and they're less than a couple of quid each. I used 24mm adhesive heatshrink on the back, to seal the Nomex in place. And they're also considerably lighter than the ones I used previously.
Your car is inspirational btw (yes, I'll be adding carbon panels to the tops of my switch boxes - yours looks the dogs :drool:). Probably going for 1.5mm panels, as 1.0mm may distort when the switches are bolted in place.
Last night I mocked up the positions of the switches on the control box (9 in all Plus the starter button), and I've also found a better spot for the box (that I can still reach with the harnesses on).
That is the only regret I have, doing it in industrial cable, but that was free and I couldnt justify spending a hell of alot of money just to save another kg. If I had the extra cash to play with I wouldnt think twice about doing it again.
Thanks for the part number. I will probably wire in a bulkhead connector like that, as currently to remove the engine loom I have to remove the DTA plug to pass it though the bulkhead hole - not ideal.
Where abouts were you planning on mounting your switch box?
I mounted my box on the floor to get the weight down as much as possible, in hindsight after racing with it I had mounted it a little too far back to reach comfortably, even after spending along time planning where I would mount it.
I will be moving it forwards and closer to the seat now I wont be having a handbrake.
I'm mounting the box on the passenger floor, adjacent to the exhaust tunnel. Similar to how I had it before, but with the box now turned through 90 degrees. The starter button, ignition switch, and wiper motor switch are now all on the control box rather than on a seperate panel next to the steering wheel. Trying to get C of G as low as possible this time, so everything, switches, wiring, etc, are being move to the floor.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictu..._pfshoot02.jpg
The original ctrl box (at the foot of the picture with the switches on) is now gone, and the same size box is used for the replacement, but turned through 90 degrees.
Thats an old picture BTW. No handbrake now, and several other changes to the interior to keep the weight down.
TBH when I opted to ditch the Zetec for the Duratec, I killed two birds with one stone, as the first loom I made also used 'industrial' spec cabling, and this time its thinwall all the way, which is suprisingly cheap (from vehicle wiring products), and looks way too small a gauge for the currents quoted in the specs. I get 17% discount and free next day delivery from RSWWW, hence the amount of their gear that I'm using. 8-)
I sat in the car with the harnesses on last night to make sure that the switch box was within reach. I couldn't help grabbing hold of the steering wheel and making some brum brum noises. Wont be long now 8-)
And I'll be squeezing more relays and more wires in to the same sized box as before, which should be fun!
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictu...s/160601_1.jpg
Mock up of the control panel
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictu...ntrolpanel.png
Wired up the traction control switch last night, by directly soldering the resistors to the switch, thus
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictu...tionswitch.png
It needs to be connected to the ECU, and thats still a while away. The switch supplied the analogue input on the S80 with 0V to 5V, in 500mV steps, representing 0-10-20-30-40-50-60-70-80-90-100% aggressiveness for the traction control setting.
Current draw is less than 1mA
Busy again last night.
Rear of the traction control switch, showing (from my phone) the resistors soldered to the back of the 12 way switch. There is a lock stop on the switch that means it only travels 11 positions to give to 0-100% in 11 steps.
http://img158.yfrog.com/img158/5791/7j9.jpg
This is the template on the control box, prior to drilling the 12mm holes for all the switches.
http://img50.yfrog.com/img50/5692/9oj.jpg
This is the box with all 9 switches fitted, and the push button starter switch.
http://img111.yfrog.com/img111/8048/gzea.jpg
The carbon panels are arriving today, so I'll remove the switches, drill holes to the same layout in the carbon panel, and then fit the panel to the top of the box (like Jason33's Fiesta control box - liked the idea, hope mine looks as good).
I've changed the positions of the switches on the control panel. All the switches nearest the fuse box are always on for the car to run, so I can easily push them all forward to ensure that the car will run.
Carbon panels arrived from Ledon Racing Services
http://img159.yfrog.com/img159/3874/nvy.jpg
An hour in the workshop, and the first panel is fitted.
http://img49.yfrog.com/img49/6758/4jhs.jpg
The remaining two panels are for the 2nd black box in the car, the one with the isolator switch, and the other one is for the engine bay, to cover the hole where the bonnet catch used to sit. I've used an ally sheet, but it looks quite tatty after a while.
Fantastic as always :thumb:
Oil adapter plate has arrived, as designed by Custom Karl and CNC machined by BR & D Engineering in W.Sussex.
http://www.brdengineering.net/
http://img154.yfrog.com/img154/5930/2zuk.jpg
This will allow me to fit the oil lines to the Duratec. They both point down towards the ground, and are tapped to 1/2BSP
Smart. :clap:
Just need to get it anodised. Another job for next week. 8-)
Isolator box cover - done
http://img111.yfrog.com/img111/7757/ew4.jpg
Nice to see your standards are still as high as ever :clap: :cool:
Can't wait to see this one back in action!
Ordered 1/2BSP -10 adapters today for the new adapter plate.
Now I can focus on plumbing the radiator in....
Now, do any of the hose manufacturers allow you to take the car to them, so they can take their exhaustive collection of hoses and find ones that fit. Or am I stuck with the usual, buy it and try it option?
I'll email a few and see if they want to get involved for a bit of free publicity.
Graham, i've just sat and read through all of this since you started putting the Duratec in. Attention to detail is great, really wish I had the patience. Look forward to seeing the car finished and back out.
brilliant as always Graham
The final bits of the puzzle arrived yesterday
http://img160.yfrog.com/img160/2481/gx5u.jpg
The 1/2BSP to -10 adapters and the 20mm Dowty seals.
Actually made the first oil line last night, that links the oil adapter plate to the remote oil filter housing. The Pro-lite 350 Hose from Earls is an absolute doddle to use, compared to the stainless overbraided stuff. Just squirt some WD40 on to the cloth braid, twist on the outer cover, slide the fitting in to the end of the hose, and do the two sections up (carefully) so as not to scratch the aluminium fitting. I'll never use the stainless stuff again. I hated getting pricked to death by the stuff.
Going to collect the Viton o-rings this morning, which'll mean I can fit the adapter plate permanently to the engine. The second hose will be made when I've worked out where to fit the cooler.
http://img113.yfrog.com/img113/5267/4zi.jpg
I've finished the control box now. The fuse holder is fitted on the end of the box, and I've started on the wiring diagrams. I'll be fitting an intermittent wiper relay too, so I can have them just on, or intermittent on with a 5s sweep.
http://img124.yfrog.com/img124/97/3ntv.jpg
Ordering the relays today, and should have the box wired up by the weekend. Then I can crimp the terminals on to the ECU loom connectors, and we should have sparks and injectors and everything else working. (Fingers crossed)
Here's a hires shot of the isolator box and the control box with ITT connector and fuse box fitted
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091205_3.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091205_4.jpg
Here is the adapter plate, with Earls fitting and one hose made up so far, using the Perform-o-flex 350 hose.
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091205_1.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091205_2.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091205_5.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091205_6.jpg
http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/20091205_7.jpg
graham, might have been covered already, but are you blanking or keeping the block breather? what benefits would this give? and would anything else need to be done?
Keeping it Adam, and it'll feed in to the rocker cover breather, and then in to the Mocal catch tank.
Far better to let an engine breath without restricting it by blanking off breather ports.
cool, i gotta sort something for mine asap, i've just had a temporary fix of the small breather filter off the rocker cover, and the block venting straight to atmosphere
but the head breathes wil oil vapour which is coming out the filter and slowly covering the engine bay, doh!
have you seen my post re: a vaccum chamber for my brakes? do you have any suggestions?
Wifey reports that two packages have arrived. One is hopefully the Geatronics dashboard gear indicator, and the other is the vehicle wiring products relay and 6.3mm crimps hopefully.
I fear I'll be outside rigging up the new CCTV camera though. NFH seemed very agitated this morning. Shouting and swearing at me again. Someones rattled his cage.
Who is NFH?
btw, nice to see you at the weekend Graham, hope you enjoyed yourself! Looking forward to seeing the Fiesta out. Fancy doing some rallying in it? :thumb: :D
Nfh = neighbour from hell
Long story. He served 9months in prison in 99 for clocking 320,000miles off 7 cars, and sells 2nd hand cars from his driveway, £1.7M worth in the last 7yrs. Nasty piece of work. One of his cars was clamped last week for having no tax. Anything that happens, he assumes its me that's reported him. He trashed my mondeo in oct 2000 whilst he was away for 2 weeks hols.
He's a little unhinged....
Jeeeeeezus!!! Total psycho! Yeah, I'd definitely have that camera up! I'd be very paranoid having someone like that near me :crazy:
When I had my old black RS2000, my brother and I saw this guy with a YB powered MK1, seemed like a bit of a wierdo, but thought nothing of it. Then a week or so later I saw him down the local shops, and he came up to me asking where I'd got my wheels from (bearing in mind here that they were RS 6" 4 spokes, just diamond turned, painted and laquered). I obviously explained that it's an RS2000, and that they're standard, and I'd bought the car with them on.
Anyway, he basically accused me of stealing his, to which I told him to go fuck himself, and drove off, next thing I know the feds are knocking on my door at home! They were really good actually, saying this bloke was a right nutter, and more than accepted that they were my wheels, I showed them a few pictures from a while before anyway just to satisfy them. Anyway, they left, but came back about an hour later, saying that this twat insisted that they were his wheels, and they had to take a statement to make it official, but not to worry as they had clearly seen he was a nutter! Never heard anything again. Anyway, where I was actually going with this, turned out he was a neighbour of someone I worked with, who confirmed his insanity, saying he had mental problems, and once accused my colleague of having an affair with his wife (he wasn't married) and stuck a bloody great axe in his front door!!! Time to moooooove! :D
And yes, I had a great time at rockingham. It was nice to get away from the kids for the day, even if I did get it in the ear when I got home. Looking forward to Croft next easter.
This bloke is so thick, he hasn't twigged that his immediate neighbour is a WPC on assignment with CID. Didn't stop him calling me a c%nt in the street yesterday. Not worth getting asbo's. That'd just be a medal of honour for him.
He's been trying to get planning permission for a huge extension. Surely someone will ask questions about his financial situation soon...