has the quality of rd stuff improved.was going to order coilover kit and two steering racks.anyone get these recently
rob v
has the quality of rd stuff improved.was going to order coilover kit and two steering racks.anyone get these recently
rob v
Rob Virgo
Cork
Ireland
Got my coilover kit from RD-no probs with it-they are all billet now none of the cast spring seats.
'68 1100 Deluxe-bog stock soon to be a twincam rep.
Just read this thread, great advice.......
So I dunno if this is the correct thread, but what do the numbers relate to regarding dampers
I've got a pair of converted Bilies that have 260/60 inserts & 170 lb coil springs - I'm going to be running a Zetec or XE in my Mk1 Escort bubble, will these be OK
the numbers are bump / rebound rates. 260/60 are generaly quoted for "forest" while tarmac are 300/70
would be interesting to have a view on the difference from someone who has tried them back to back (on tarmac/road)
Have got 2 1/4" coilovers on the front of our Escort.
When the suspension fully compresses, what should stop the travel - the springs binding, or the insert running out or travel?
A bumpstop on the damper rod should bit before both of those
Thanks Dave.
Is the bumpstop on the rod at the bottom of the strut casing?
It should be on the visible part of the rod behind the spring!
Thanks again Dave, I'm working on the car tomorrow so will check it out.
I am thinking of lowering the car by another inch allround for smooth tarmac events.
What is the minimum suspension travel people would recommend for the front of a tarmac escort (running 300/70 long inserts with 2 1/4" 275lbs 12" springs)?
Do I need short inserts if I'm lowering the car?
Thanks, Phil.
One other thing, a long spring weighs more than a short one.
There is a approximately 5 inches of travel in the shocker.
i too am going down the coilover path. about to order the kit and start cutting the spring plates tomorrow. never really played around with suspension before so this is a first for me.
one question that was asked before which i couldnt see answered is about the gussets that i have seen welded on at the bottom of the strut tube. are they necessary for mainly road use or just a good idea.
cheers
If you've got your welder out you might as well do them as well.
'68 1100 Deluxe-bog stock soon to be a twincam rep.
the gussets In my opinion help where there is the possibility of the front end leaving the ground and coming back with a thud! (preventing any change in angles between the strut and stub axle knuckle...for a road car or circuit car I think they are heavy overkill, especially with the more difficult welding required to the knuckle.
Cheers,
Justin P
Put the gussets on mine and their only for road use
Screaming 1300 mexico rep
The sleeve location isnt really too important since you can take up any major lowering with a spring length change. Dont know if you saw the thread on here the other day about clearance problems and the springs hitting the tyres/wheels but just incase i would be welding my sleeves as close to the top as i dare and running springs to suit when sat on a jack at the right height you want and measuring to see what will fit
it was me who had the problem with coils touching the wheels last week and i since found out that i had the wrong offset wheels.
i finished mine. got GAZ adjustables with 10" 250 lbs springs and eccentric tops. pretty easy conversion as long as you think before doing
hi, thinking of doing my capri billies, not sure how to remove the inserts from the casing? nut at the bottom has been removed but cant get it out? do i knock it from the bottom or is there a way to do it properly? also will there be oil in the casing or is the insert a sealed unit that i can just put back in after i finish? many thanks and hope u can help wyn.
stripped them down today, found one was leaking a little, they have brass caps not screw in tops, can i buy new seals for them? if so where? spotted the nut and had a little tap!! but stopped before i did any damage, got my kit from burton, seems a little loose on the tube?? is that normal? many thanks for your help cheers wyn.
does anyone know where to get the brass caps from as rally design aint got none in stock and im waiting to finish my legs
Hi all, been looking over this thread and forum for that matter and i like what i'm seeing i'll probably be on more over the next few months, but anyway onto my question about coilovers.
I've got a Capri and i'm looking to convert my bilstein's to coilover spec. I'm also going to get some new inserts while i'm at it, i'm thinking along the lines of the 300/70 tarmac inserts. I know i'll need to drill and tap the hole in the bottom of the struts to an M10 thread but what about the top mounts? I'm guessing the standard ones will have too small a hole for the new insert? If this is the case what direction should i take, roller bearing or something like eccentric top mounts?
Also i'm thinking 225LBS/ 10.5 inch springs with the threaded tube welded about 2 inches fron the top of the strut bodie, sound about right? The cars running a pinto and i've got Yokohama paradas on it, which are of a medium compound i reckon, there pretty sticky anyway
Thanks for reading
Hey,
Im looking to convert my struts to coilovers and there's a couple things what keeps me occupied. Is it able to use the rally design spring seat kit with the smaller strut ( from 1.6 mk2 escort) or are they too loose with them? I also need advice with the spring rates.. What would be suitable spring rate/lenght for road use? Car will be lowered a little and i'm going to use 14''-15'' wheels. And its going to have 2.0 pinto engine. Thanks already
Last edited by juhispahis; 06-02-2011 at 22:24.
Anyone? The car will also be forest arched..
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