all of the paint on my car is 2K which has very little in the way of solvent in it
all of the paint on my car is 2K which has very little in the way of solvent in it
Blimey you are going to town this year Mr Bahr, will be worth it in the end though and I reckon you'll have a car which requires a lot less work for a couple of seasons
Looking forward to seeing that wing with some endplates etc, thats the way I'm going with mine I expect. How much was it? and how wide is it
Sierra cosworth turbo race car
QMN saloon car championship
RETRO Motorsport
its 52" wide and was spoiler was £50, in reality if as it stands it did generate any downforce or drag it would of got ripped off the car, the bolts attaching the wings to the support legs are m4 tapped into only 4mm thickness of aluminium
so the only bits i'll use are the areofoils sections themselves which are extruded aluminiium, it will have big end plates similar to the batmobile spoiler as a means of mounting, which will put the wing as far back as i can get it, conbined with lip spoiler on the bootlid i will have a triple element rear wing, although whether it does anything usefull will be another matter
£50 is cheap if the aerofoil sections are suitable, I'll have to get over to my car cos I can't remember how wide I can go, but quite a bit more than 52" I think
Sierra cosworth turbo race car
QMN saloon car championship
RETRO Motorsport
wasnt there something about the paint weight with the ford WRC team a few years back, they decided it could be lighter and stripped a shell back, repainted it and took 5kgs off or something like that.
and it maybe an urban myth, but ive been told the matt black bonnets on cars were not just for reducing glare but you can cover the same area in less matt paint so its lighter... could just be a load of balls though
nice progress again
not sure i'd go to the trouble for 5kg, but unlike the focus the paint in my car is now a couple of mm thick, when wick stripped the paint from his escort which had had quite a few resprays he saved 35Kgs
And the grey bdt powered puma was grey because its the best covering colour or something!?!
that does make sense, the denser the colour the less of it your need to actually end up with the colour
i thought the denser the driver the more paint you need applying more often
As you want more weight over the rear wheels couldnt you have just stripped the front half of the car off and leave all 3 layers of paint on the back?
tommy 2000
went shopping today, went to see hp tyres today and came back with lots of new tyres, £2k worth from dunlop
thankfully i did get a very very healthy discount, but it was still a lot of dosh
i've never had a proper set of wets before so having bought a set it probably guarentees we wont get a wet race next season, not that i want one, i didnt mind sliding around in the wet in my old car be be honest with 2.5 times the grunt this car scares the crap out of me in the wet
Last edited by Graham; 11-12-2007 at 18:04.
i've given the exhaust manifolding a lot of thought, the manifold on my 8v car was trouble free, my mk1 16v manifold had 2 issues, the turbo keep working loose, and it cracked, using a sierra manifold last year robbed me of a big chunk of power and the turbo kept working loose anyway.
thinking about it the turbo never worked loose on the 8v, i can only assume it didnt on that because it was held on with nuts and bolts, rather than just bolts or nuts and studs, so i've decided to go back to my origonal 16v manifold, cut the top section off it and remake it making sure i can use nuts and bolts which are accessable to hold the turbo on,
the new flange from the manifold is cut from a 16mm thick block of steel, i roughed out the hole in the middle using a pillar drill to drill lots of overlapping holes,
then used the milling machine to straighten things up
i picked up this cast turbo adaptor thingy off ebay, its T4/T3, the T4 flange being much bigger i felt would make it easier to fabricate to and having two nice thick flanges on it would be nice and strong and allow plenty of room to bolt things up.
this flange will sit nicely between the turbo and manifold and hopefully allow the manifold to run cooler and be less prone to cracking, here are some pics of it sitting in place whilst i mocked up
once i worked out where everything was going to sit, i tacked a couple of strips of steel between the manifold and the steel flange so i could take the whole lot back off the car and start cut and bend some thick 6mm steel plate to join the two together, the only problem being that 6mm steel plate is very difficult to bend, it takes two blow lamps to get it hot and a scaffold pole over an adjustable spanner to bend it all
Last edited by Graham; 11-12-2007 at 18:31.
Very innovative GrahamI really hope this proves to be a lot more reliable/trouble free way of doing it
tommy 2000
Looking like you're getting there graham
Loving those new wheels you bought, they look hard as nails.
Wanna borrow one off you one day as I'd like to see if I have the space to run 18's on mine just to keep my options open
Do you run water cooling to your turbo or is it not worth it? Do you just blank off the inlet and outlet?
Sierra cosworth turbo race car
QMN saloon car championship
RETRO Motorsport
no water cooling to the turbo, you dont blank the holes off just leave them empty.
from what i've seen and heard very few circuit racers run watercooled turbos because it doesnt do much of a job of cooling the turbo but it does do a really good job of overheating the coolant
You can make a very effective furnace out of a BBQ with an air feed under it. (I used a hoover fan )
You can melt the 6mm plate that way if you wanted to, never mind bend it.
You two and Gary should be on scrapheap challenge!
There would be an awesome machine built and/or a mahoosive explosion, great tv either way
Sierra cosworth turbo race car
QMN saloon car championship
RETRO Motorsport
the manifold is completed now, before welding it i bolted it to a spare head,
i've tapped the holes in the flange, so the cast t3/t4 adapter will bolt on, and theres just enough room to get nuts on the back of the bolts so i can lock them in
im not out of the water yet, as i have a problem when it comes to attaching the manifold to the head, this manifold uses M6 studs, the head was drilled to M8 when the yb manfold was fitted, first thoughts are to drill the manifold to take m8 studs, but the primary pipes are so big the wouldnt be room to fit the nuts
IF i can find some m7x1.25 studs, nuts and some m7 helicoils, i can fit the helicoils straight in the current m8 holes in the head screw in the m7 studs and i think theres just enough room in the manifold to drill the holes out and be able to do the m7 nuts up,
although what im actually hoping is K nuts are compact enough i can use those with the m8 studs, which would entail just drilling out the manifold which is easier said than done because the primary flanges are a rock hard grade of stainless, i might have to do it the slow way with reamers
what ever i do its got to be reliable, i suppose worse case sinario would be to have to change the head on the engine, but that would entail an enormous amount of work porting the spare head, machining valves, shimming, not to mention having to buy another expensive head gasket
Last edited by Graham; 12-12-2007 at 20:36.
i'd love to, although i suspect it would piss us off, as i think the team are pretty much told what they are going to do, otherwise when there are a couple of different ways to solve a problem i.e low weight/ small engine or heavy/big engine why do the two teams never take the same routeYou two and Gary should be on scrapheap challenge!
i thought of that, infact that is what i did so i could trial fit the manifold to the engine which is still in the car but it leaves the studs very weak, and theres a loat of weight hanging off them.
if i could find some OE studs which have been made (rolled) that way it would be a good solution,
Last edited by Graham; 12-12-2007 at 20:56.
yes i have a damper/ support in mind, although its going to be difficult to get it right, a yb damper is relativily simple because when the yb manifold expands it moves the turbo sideways towards the inner wing, hense yb dampers consiting basically of a rosed joined link that the turbo hangs on,
my manifold will try to push the turbo up, so getting it to support the manifold and turbo without trying to break it off is going to be diffcult, i did have a couple of supports for the 8v turbo engine but they just broke every time i did a race, so i left them off in the end, weak studs werent an issue with that engine they were m10!
What size are standard cossie studs? As im pretty sure they are special ones for the cossie which are stronger or something....you kinda expect that at £12 each or the extortionate price they charge
Faling that im guessing you cant bolt it on with some allen headed bolts?
Nice work on the manifold though
Yeah I was thinking a strong set of caphead allen bolts might be the easiest answer too
The damper may be trickier as you have to get all the angles and rates of expansion dead right or it will hinder more than it will help.
Manifold looks good and strong now though, will you still use K nuts when nut and bolting it to the adapter thingy you bought?
Sierra cosworth turbo race car
QMN saloon car championship
RETRO Motorsport
i attacked the manifold with a reamer last night and opened up the manifold holes to m8
heres a bmw manifold gasket laying onto of a yb one, the ports on the bmw are enormous by comparision
once i'd opened out teh holes in the gaskets to 8mm thers only just enough material left to form a seal
not much room here!, thers just enough for an allen bolt, but i will probably use studs and slide a spacer over them to space the nut away from the thickest part of the pipe so i can get a nut on and do it up
not much room this side either
manifold bolted back on engine tempoarily with a couple of allen bolts, i will sort the studs and spacers later when the engine comes out
from above, if your wondering why it sits at an angle its because it made for the easiest fabricating and nicest shape to the manifold and allows a gentler turn in the downpipe
turbo bolted on
all the bolts for the turbo and its adapter flange are still accessable
with the actuator bracket mocked up and tacked into place.
Last edited by Graham; 13-12-2007 at 20:14.
nice use of latex gloves there graham
Nice position for the turbo Graham, I take it it clears the bonnet ok still?
How do you decide the angle of the actuator, as the angle where its attached the the turbo looks bigger than I've seen before, or is it simply not that critical and can be adjusted on the thread
Sierra cosworth turbo race car
QMN saloon car championship
RETRO Motorsport
well it will sort of nearly clear the bonnet!
i am expecting to have to have a bonnet bulge.
re actuator angle, i dont think its that critical, i simply fitted it where the rod gave the nicest freest movement of the wastegate, i will sort the adjustment out later, but on this engine anyway it only just wants enough tension on it to barely hold the wastegate shut otherwise the boost comes in far too hard far too early
The experts are told the problem in advance and come up with a design to submit. If both experts come up with the same design on is told to come up with a different one. My flatmates dad was an expert on one episode and one of my lecturers was a judge.
Good work with the car. Is the downpipe going over the top of the engine?
yeah its sort of, its more going round the back of it slightly above it, similar to what it always has done but this time im tucking it into what was the heater plenum doing it that way i still have room to get it round the back of the head even after moving the engine back,Good work with the car. Is the downpipe going over the top of the engine?
actually the real tricky bit is totally reshaping the front pipe but without buying any new bits of pipe!
did the front pipe this evening, its only tacked together for now, just got to make up a couple of supports and then work out some sort of damper/mount for the turbo and check/sort the oil drain for fittment then its a case of take the engine out and tidy up the engine bay
That should de-mist the screen nicely too Graham
Must say looks a better setup now, should prove more reliable too once its all done. Looks like you should be ready for the start of the season being as you've done the major work before xmas
Sierra cosworth turbo race car
QMN saloon car championship
RETRO Motorsport
woow thats a huge turbo what about the plug wires are you going to have any protection incase they get burned from the exhaust heat?
turbo isnt that big its a T38, and gives near T4 power but with less lag
re plug leads they are magnacores which are very robust but they wont be quite as close as it looks in the pics as long as they dont flap around they will be ok,
unfortunatly i've found heat wrap only lasts a couple of hours round turbo downpipes, i wouldnt mind if it was cheap but its well expensive
Bookmarks