hi all
looking at possible swapping my xflow for a duratec
if it goes according to plan i should be able to get a good engine from a wrecked mondeo and all the bits id need from it for roughly £200..
my question is what else would i need to get it converted and from who has done it and how much did it cost as im on a very tight budget
probably will be going for a rx8 6 speed box?
not after anything fancy just a standard running engine in my car to get it moving again
cheers ed
Mk3 mazda 5 and 6 speed gearboxes bolt straight on use pinto clutch see if you can get hold of a ranger sump bowl is at the back lee
brill thanks lee as i understand it aren't the mx5 boxes quite sizeable compared to rx8/type 9 and also ofset at roughly 10`
thanks for the ranger info though
ed
Not the 5 speed it's smaller than type 9 , I just cut gear lever at bottom and bent it over put gaiters over it and you can't tell
Which sump the steel one and what do you do about the pick up pipe
what parts would be needed to convert the engine to rwd
alternator, mounts,water pump, water rail??
cheers ed
Don't forget the cost of the induction and ignition system, that's going to be where the big money has to be spent.
yh i was just gonna keep standard injection/ecu as it will be a daily so not after mega speed
near impossible with such a modern car! much easier if you have a zetec mondeoOriginally Posted by ed95
so i know im new to this still but how is it near impossible can i not use it all from a donor car into my one?
because the engine ecu communicates with all the cars other control modules, such as dashboard, abs, airbag, transmission, air con, central body electrics etc etc, by can and lin bus networks, unless you literally from a mechanical and electrical perspective turn your car into a mondeo, it just wont work, like i said unless your talking about using a zetec powered 1992 mondeo as a base.
theres a reason why people buy £200 engines, then spend somewhere upwards of £650 with me on ecu's and stuff to make them work in old cars
trust me modern car electrics give the motor trade real headaches, even those that are really switched on, so even if you could do what your suggesting you would be mad to even attempt it.
As G says - you could maybe keep the induction side hardware and the Ign. hardware but a standalone ecu would be the best option for control - Megasquirt cheap ££, DTA, Emerald, etc. mid range £££ pricewise, Pectal, Motec - top end £££££.
Contact Chester Sports Cars ,,,they will give a good quote
Big Wing sold and gone to be a film star
Does a ranger sump need any modifications or is it a bolt on solution for the escort?
Just to add a bit the the OEM ECU problems, the ECU expects to see door switches, handbrake, amongst other switches and on some cars the dashboard, I have heard in the kitcar world people used to put the donor dash in a box as the ECU would not work without seeing it. Part of the PATS system.
On Locostbuilders there is a long thread on the Zetec ECU and how to use it but nothing for the Duratec.
You can use carbs and Megajolt for a cheap Duratec instal but EGI has got to be the way to go.
This would be cheaper for you if you lived over here and could just get ranger parts from ford or the junk yard.
ECU is easy, hp tuners can turn off the VATs and stuff, on the non VVT ecus and those dont seem to care too hard if they're missing body modules. Though just slapping a megasquirt on its easier.
Tranny wise, mx5 5 speed is probably the cheapest option, and then match the starter to the flywheel diameter and use the miata clutch and flywheel. If you do something strange tranny wise you'd be better off having someone make a twin disk on an auto flexplate for you, my setup from quartermaster was only $800 for putting a t5 behind my 2.5. If you're sticking N/A the weak miata 5 speed is strong enough.
If you do do the miata 5 speed I found that the miata pan had more clearance than the ranger pan, and it fits even with the big 2.5 as long as you delete the balance shafts.
Miata intake manifold was the cheapest way I found to go for a rwd manifold.
accessories are going to depend on your engine bay and setup. I went with the 2nd gen mazda 3 setup to get all the belts on the intake side of the engine for more turbo room and because I already run an electric power steering pump from a volvo I didnt need the belt driven setup like the mx5.
There's other stuff to consider too on the swap, the coolant outlet takes some work, cheapest way here is the ranger again, it goes up over the exhaust, so crazy bundle of snake headers are tough. But both parts (outlet and pipe) and a gasket are under $100.
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