I also ordered a set of Quaife Half shafts for English axle and a new 3.54 CWP Kit.
The Panhard rod which I bought was useless...wrong exhaust side! Now I go for a Englisch axle watts linkage weld on kit. Watt linkage.jpg
After assembling the front struts i found out that the spring is rearly very short and I have a space enough to add a helper spring! So on...burning money never ends...But YOLO
Now the rear axle is ready for Sandblasting an powdercoating! Watt linkage welded. The parcel Shelf looks also verry nice with the carbon. The Carbon rear spoiler was a bit more work! They glued the fixings at the wrong place. So i had to drill new holes. But now he is in the right position... IMG_7747.JPG. IMG_7746.JPG
And the missing Differential parts arivved. But never the less, the new 3J LSD unit has larger side bearing journals! Now I need another 2 weeks of waiting to get the right ones back, because I had sent theese back to Peter Lloyd, because I thought he send me the wrong parts (NSK instead of the Timken bearings!) how ever...I need the NSK ones back again. Bloody German customer IMG_8079.JPG
Back to the Bodywork. The engine bay needs my attention... The Group 4 strut top strengthener plates didnīt fit that good. So I need to cut out some mm at the edges. Now the fit perfectly. After grinding and respray with anti corrosion paint they are waiting for the welding gun. Also the bulkhead inner wing chassis gussets needs to be modifiyed. Years ago we welded in just some triangled plates...now the left side is already welded in. IMG_8237.JPGIMG_8244.JPG
But it is also time for some useless just nice looking stuff. Time to modify the hood stay, Aloy and with unibal bearing, and the Aerocatch bonnet release set. IMG_8315.JPGIMG_8316.JPGIMG_8242.JPG
What a ride... yesterday I fitted the Aero Catch parts. 3 Hours of cutting and sawing. But at the end it looks cool in my opinion. Next steps will be the right bulkhead inner wing chassis gusset and the "removable" heater bowl. Stay strong my followers IMG_8324.JPGIMG_8327.JPG
Engine day! Today I got the new cam follower! Time to put the Head rogether ! Kent camshafts 282 and 276 degrees and the adjustable Vernier Pulleys. The modifiyed timing belt cover looks also very good! IMG_8354.JPG thanks to Dirk Kammer "The living Tork Wrench" IMG_8355.JPGIMG_8356.JPG
Still pushing myself... last weekend Iīve done some more welding Jobs. I found out that some metal ares are more difficult to weld than others due to metal quality in my opinion. But never the less...the grinder and the sealer stuff will clear it out! To get the right position on the strut top strengthener plates, I fixed it with the new adjustable top mount. The welding of the inner wing chassis gussets is also finished after some spreding fires... For the heater bubble I need definitivly some more time. In the first step I closed all holes, but it is verry difficult to clean with the small air grinder. The right strut top strengthener plate will be welded in on saturday. To get enough clearance between the engine and the bulkhead, I also neet to cut the bulkhead lip. IMG_8406.JPG IMG_8410.JPG IMG_8411.JPG IMG_8412.JPG IMG_8419.JPG IMG_8421.JPG
Next steps done. Disassembled the BBS wheels. The inner and outer rims will get polishd. The Magnesium middle parts need some more attention. It is not that easy to get the color off. Together with BBS motorsport, I decided to clean the Parts with Glass bead blasting technic. After they are clean they must be paintet asap with some special 1K Epoxit Primer. After that they are safte against corrosion and ready to get painted in the right "BBS Gold" colour. IMG_8668.JPGIMG_8669.JPG
After one and a half week off sick I need to continue welding my engine compartment . But if I look at some actual storys in this forum I can asume that I am a lucky boy! Just a kind of playing... It is always a pleasure to see the pictures from your projects guys. Great craftmanship! Thats a lot of motivation! Thanks for that!! Hopefully my posts are not too boring. But for me, this project is the realisation of my dreams. My biggest inspiration came from DANGEROUSDAVEīs silver Harrier Escort. Such one of the bebautifullest Escorts i ever saw! Letīs see what happend in the future... Regards Dennis
Gut gemacht. Es sieht sehr gut aus. Es ist noch ein kleiner Weg zum FINSH Wie lange bevor Sie denken, dass Sie es beenden werden. welchen ECU wirst du benutzen?
In Saarland , the region were Iīm from we have an great Series only for Oldtimer. Saarland Classic Cup. Thats my personal target! First event is on May 13th 2018. Would be great to start there. The ECU came from SBD Motorsport. It is an MBE Ecu. the Series is an MBE9A9 with a ready to start engine loom.
Next Milestone finished! The english axle is ready! All parts are assembled and fit perfectly together. Next week I can start to put the axle in the car and weld the anti tramp bar fixings to the chassis and the watt linkage towers.
IMG_8781.JPG IMG_8780.JPG I also finished the welding of the second trut top strengthener plate.
Next job heater grille welding. The plan is to srew the grille and the heater bowl. Easier to spray, easier to clean... so I had to close all the holes from the spot welds. I got a verry good insider tip from my Bodyshop and Paint mate. I used a piece of copper to get a flat surface at the outer side! Now I just need to grind the inner side!
Now all parts can go to the Chemical derusting bath and to the ETL Coating. Yesterday I decided to derust the doors too! I just count minimum 4 layers of paint! No risk...derusting an coating. Now theese parts are ready for derusting and coating: - Bonnet - Boot Lid - Heater Bowl - Heater Grille - Both doors
The right floor is prepared for the seat rails. Now I can start with the final floor modifications on saturday. I found some rust under the old isolation but no holes! The shell is in a rearly good condition. At the upper right corner between A-Pillar and bulkhead was another rust corner.But now its clean and coated. IMG_9097.JPGIMG_9100.JPG IMG_9098.JPGIMG_9099.JPG
Also the tires are ordered. With the 7 inch BBS Rims I decided to use the 185/60/ 13 Nankang NS-2R Street Medium 180. For just 46 quit, i will give them a try
The comments to this tyre ar not that bad! The first plan to go for the 175/50/13 for optical reasons is canceled. One reason is that our German TÜV declines theese tires for 7 Inch rims. The other reason is grip for sure
Today i started sandblasting the BBS rims. It Takes hours to get that old paint off. I bought this small sandblasting box 10 years ago! Great investement. Still works Fine and theres no dust and sand in the garage 5A124EF5-1DED-4A8B-BE6D-D7355C40494D.jpeg Thats how It looks after 1 hour sandblasting 42ABC2F9-C680-47AB-B5C8-B43FF2C3C43B.jpeg
The original BBS color code is still a big secret...but Subaruīs GK1 color code is quite close to this. One issue with theese Magnesium rims is the porous surface which you can see on the last picture. Another issue is the easy oxidation of magnesium. So I decided to use a special 1K epoxy primer.
Yesterday i did some more welding jobs in the engine bay. First step was to remove some "old" corner stuffing plates at the radiator housing which I welded in 4 years ago. This area was looking very unfinished. Now I ordered a new radiator top gusset wich goes compleat from one to the other side! old.jpgIMG_9245.JPG
Then I started to cut the bulkhead lip. Surprise surprise...after cutting over the lip, the bulkhead opens up to a huge hole! So I started to welding it together again. IMG_9246.JPGIMG_9252.jpg One question is, should I cut the hole lip? I have some corner strenghtenning plates left, which I can weld at the corners.Plan is , before I cut the rest of the lip, to weld from inside! So it cant open again to a huge gap and I can easily weld a very smal seam from outside! After all theese action I finished the day with a bit of grinding the left inner bottom and put some primer.
Today I will start with the weld in chassis threaded sleeve tubes. Is there any dicription how I drill the threads out? Did you cut the complete area out and weld a new metal plate in?? I would like to set the front axle 10mm deeper, so maybe not the worst idea to cut it out and weld in a 10mm plate! ?? Any suggestions??
Is there any discription how to drill the threads out? Did you cut the complete area out and weld a new metal plate in?? I would like to set the front axle 10mm deeper, so maybe not the worst idea to cut it out and weld in a 10mm plate! ?? Any suggestions??
Still pushing with the wheels. Now three of four are allready sandblasted. I brought the blasting Box to my shop where we have a bigger compressor! And what should I say ... just 30 minutes for one wheel! But over the years the seals of the Box lost their function... I found this bloody sand everywhere on my body
Next major step finished! The engine firewall lip is fully removed, welded and pretty grinded. (there are still 2 or 3 holes which need to be welded..) The last stiffening plates are welded in at the corners. Maybe this weekend I can finish the engine compartment. Next jobs to be done: - Additional welds at the chassis rails - removing threads and welding in the tubes for the crossmember.
Sunday...Escortday! Time to do some more welding... Thanks for the big amount of replies and tips how to drill out the crossmember threads! I tried the stepdrill and It works fine. After checking the position with the new crossmember I Start welding. 91C441DB-BA57-44AF-8AE2-CAFEC480D799.jpeg98B3CD2E-6993-4E3F-877E-A079BA74E888.jpeg
I also weld the extra seams along the chassis rails. And again, some times It was terrible to weld , i dont know why.
Hi Mark , there is a well known Company in England for Electrophoretically Coating (E-Coat) Surface Processing Ltd. Thats exacltly what happens with my parts ! But the company wich i used work together with John deere. Thats why they are Green!! Normaly the coating is black. Today I trief to Weld in the watts linkage towers. But again... one step forward... two steps back! To put the rear exhaust to the left side, i must weld the small tower to the right side and the big one at the left side! The small on fits exactly to the rear end. But the left side is 50mm to far back!?!? The Trunk bottom is shorter they the right side! Right side: Attachment 82523
Only some small steps done due to the summer tire season in my Garage... The Dizzy Plug is finished. IMG_9924.JPGDizzi Plug 2.jpg
And the Cluster is going to be fiinshed! To get the weak paint off I used my small sandblasting box. The job was done just within minutes. Now the cluster frame is going to an water transfer print company to get a carbon look. The needles are refresht with some special paint. tacho old.jpgtacho new.jpg
And some pictures of my origami for the prototype... The last picture shows the frame with carbon foil but it was impossible to apply it on without wrinkles! IMG_7491.JPGIMG_7492.JPG
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