Well there is nothing wrong with that mate, you just got to give it a try! if it works it works, if not there is always somthing else....... good on'ye dude!
Well there is nothing wrong with that mate, you just got to give it a try! if it works it works, if not there is always somthing else....... good on'ye dude!
the o2 sensor's not that hard to set up, my advice would be to use the default settings to start with for both outputs (ones wideband the other is simulated narrow band) thats for the inivate though, that way you dont have to reset all the outputs if the controler resets it's self (happened to me a lot and not had time to reinstall)
The wiring diagrams are pretty easy to ue as well.
Hey Wildo,
I figured I would give you another prompt
Any progress on your Green Machine?
well it's been long enough thought i would drag this back to the first page. I have now got the injection running reasonably well (see engine management sectio) and not much chance of MOT'ing the car i got bored and decided to fit the turbo up and get all the bits plumbed in and measured up. Sounds a bit excessive but only takes 20 minutes to take the 4 branch off as i have a bolt up flange.
I managed to get an RS Turbo downpipe for the the end flanges. A week later searching e-bay for the other half of the lower flange i found a complete exhaust including downpipe for £20 3 miles from home that the way it goes i suppose.
Once the bends turn up for the turbo side and are all fitted i can either remove it all in 1/2 an hour or just finish it all of and run the turbo. Then the downpipe fabricating and a decent exhaust which i can't afford at the mo
Well it's about time Thought you had given up the fight. We're going into winter now so that's the time for wrenching on your motor. Keep up the good work
Rob
Although I have never been married, I do know what you mean. But I bet your wife is a lot more understanding than my girlfriend. She just doesn't understand and doesn't even pretend to want to understand. She flat out hates my obsession with my cars. If she had her way they would all be gone as well as the Harley. We got into it about my 59 Ranchero a while back and and I straight told her that she would go before the car did Maybe that's why I'm moving down under and she's not going with me
So is the kitchen done?
Just one wall to put some paper on. I wish cars were as easy to paint as emulsion on walls
Waiting for my bends to turn up to finish off the turbo boost pipes.
Next is the downpipe which is were i am stuck which way to go. The current exhaust is an Ashley pea shooter 2 inch i think (maybe smaller) which has been welded about. The RS turbo downpipe is 21/4 inch which is considerably bigger.
Do i get a new exhaust from neilm and if so he does a 21/4 or do i need bigger 2.5 maybe ? (neilm any comments). My goal is 200bhp(whether this realistice i don't know but you need to aim at something)
I would like to use say the first 9 inches of the rs exhaust to join to whatever exhaust i have as this would give me a join i can unbolt easily from the downpipe as i know this wont be the last time the engine comes out
may get some pics on tonight of what my intention is
I'd say go for 2,5" right away. For 200 bhp 2,25" will be "enough" but it's good to have a little in reserve for a turbo engine.
Gustaf
Back room painted now aswell
My plan to plumb in the turbo and then revert back might still be on until i can afford a new exhaust. But every step closer makes me feel more like finishing it.
I have now got the Intercooler connected although the alternator is very closer to the first pipe off the turbo. Thoughts for this was a smaller alternator but also a shorter fan belt may just give enough room.
Next was the coolant for the turbo. I know the T3 can run on oil only but i wanted to shift some heat into the rad which i had tripled cored. So i have run the first pipe from the water pump to the turbo. Trouble is the one is 16mm and the other 8mm. Not a big fan of doing this but it serves a purpose I soldered a copper yorkshire plumbing fitting 8mm - 15mm to a new cossie turbo pipe. The outsdie dia of the 15mm makes 16mm with a nice lip on aswell. Next bit of plumbing was to complete the circuit back round. I eventually want to use the heater but didn't want to test a 40 year old matrix on a heat generateing turbos so i made a quick joint in the same way so simulate the heater connections.
I also bought some bling turbo hose clamps and didn't appreciate just how big they are. I think they are more suited to a time attack Skyline
nice job man
Regards from Jocke Nilsson /Sweden
Great project mate keep it up
Thanks guys
Been thinking about the way i have plumbed in the turbo coolant and may re do it.
I was thinking of taking the hose from the water pump direct to my heater connection but "T" off with a 8mm hose to the turbo. The return from the turbo would go back to the take off on the thermostat housing.
My theory is that originally sending waterfrom a 16 mm pipe into 8mm then back up 16mm and i am not sure how it will work.
If i feed it back it as i propose it will go straight back to the thermostat and rad without pumping a lot of heat back in the engine.
(any opinions welcome)
Actually I'm not sure what's best. When I used to run a water cooled turbo I had the water in parallell with the heater. But I felt moste of the water went through the turbo instead of the heater, so it was a bit chilly at times.
Ideally it's said that the turbo should draw water from a low connection and dump it high, in order to let it self circulate when the engine is shut down. Using the thermostat housing takeoff is tempting since it's very convenient. But since it connects before (?) the thermostat I'm not sure it will be able to self circulate?
The heater connection on the water pump draws water from the head, another issue. If you connect the other end of the turbo to the thermostat housing, will it not draw hot water (that's supposed to enter the rad) through the turbo?
Not that I think it's a problem for the turbo though.
I'm thinking about feeding the turbo cold water from the bottom rad hose, and then connect the turbo coolant hose to the one that goes from the heater to the water pump.
Gustaf
Thanks Gustaf,
I think i have not been looking at this correctly and the way the water circulates.
So the water pump pulls water through the heater from the inlet side of the engine and thenback into the block once the heat has been drawn out by the matrix. It seems logical when you sit and look at it.
could you get the extra pipe welded onto your rad for the return like the rst has?
you could always use a heater core mounted to the front of the car down low and use a pump to send the water to the turbo and back to the heater core.if you have room i would also use a small tank to fill the water and act as a vent.no pressure in the system that way but you may want to put a pressure cap on it if it gets that hot.it probably will
now that i think about it.i think a seperate system is better.if you have the room that is.
08 ford mustang 4.0l v6 4.10 gears5 speed auto vortech sc 16psi intercooled custom intake/meth inj.
Cheers, I think i am missing a trick. Which way does the water for the heater go then. I originally assumed it was pushed from the outlet on the water pump. But now i visualise it pushed through the block and out the inlet manifold through the heater and then back in the pump outlet.
hi mate looking good,to be honist you can run that turbo with out water,i did so with my new t3 on my cossie kitcar.
unless its roller baring i wouldnt bother.
but if you do just make sure it plumbs into eather side of the water pump
Last edited by jpindy3; 22-11-2009 at 18:17.
Lookin good Wildo! I'm glad to see you doing all this for the rest of us to learn from. Much appreciated!
Aye I have it in my head now that i want to get it water cooled.
My current think is to have the turbo cooled from the inlet side heater hose. This will run the water at engine temp and then feed it back into a new inlet fitted the thermostat housing. This should sit on the rad side of the thermostat and feed the hot water straight into the rad.
I may end up swapping the alloy hose joiner in the top hose for a t piece we shall see.
Osiyo59 - I don't mind one bit if it helps others along in the future. I have got enough info from TS
[/quote] Osiyo59 - I don't mind one bit if it helps others along in the future. I have got enough info from TS[/quote]
Thanks Mate I must agree. I have learned so much from here that I never would have known the true potential of my motor otherwise. Now I just need to get going on mine so I can contribute as well
Yours is looking brilliant! Keep at it
Last edited by Osiyo59; 23-11-2009 at 18:52.
Dave , thanks for your help, I think that manifold we were talking about would put the turbo too close to the bulkhead and you've still got to get the exhaust out the back, Any pics of yours looking down on top?
Did you see that manifold on ebay for £500.
Great project mate 'the appliance of science' looks tricky
Last edited by wildo105e; 28-11-2009 at 16:01. Reason: more info
oooh thats a tough one to call, think I better stick with the homemade job, no progress this weekend lots of house projects on the go as well
I'll start a thread sometime, we might as well all laugh at my attempts to turbo a pinto.
Last edited by wildo105e; 30-11-2009 at 22:18.
looking impressive fella , i'm soon to attempt the same thing but i'm just trying to get it running n/a first on megasquirt then turbo, just currious to what ignition system you running, i was thinking i might run the edis pack ? are you running edis or cossie management or electronic ignition on a vacume advance or are even on points??????
sorry if you've already mantioned it but i've just spent the best part of 5 hours straight on this website reading up how to megasquirt my pinto and my only thought so far is coz now i feel less confident about it to when i first started of thinking about doing it.
Can't see none
My Turbo'd RS2000 has been sat in the garage for 2 years now while i've been using a standard one. I'm getting sick of being left behind the cossie lot. Think it need to be out again next year.
As for the pics above, its starting to look like mine did with all the pipes connected up. That was until one of the turbo cooling water pipes let go at the soldered joint onto the banjo fitting. Then i just ran it without cooling. Just make sure your water is passing through the turbo then into the rad and not going into the heater as it will over heat the heater rad and con melt the plastic box.
Don't panic
Have a look on the engine management threads. As i have one running there about the MS. I started with a plan to get it running N/A which i did but not really on the street. I have started fitting up the turbo as i have nothing left to do really other than MOT the car in N/A format. Once i have all the pipes sussed it may well come off until i can afford a decent exhaust.
My igintion runs from direct from MS so i couldn't really comment on EDIS. I use a trigger 36-1 on the crank for the signal and a coil pack. So far works a treat. MS isn't as bad as you think once you get familiar with it although i have yet to really get some tuning done. Phil at extraefi supplied it built up and has some really good diags on his web site. Just ask there are a few good blokes on here who run MS so i am sure you will get an answer
Robrs2, thanks for that it was your car that really got me going on this I know what you mean about the pipes you try and keep it neat and somewhere it gets out of control. I am going to redo the coolant pipes so it feeds in off the heater circuit and back in the on the thermostat. This outlet comes in just behind the stat so should feed back into the rad once the stat is open i am haven't connected the heater as i really don't know how sound the matrix is yet
right well i've cheated and bought a complete sierra engine and i'll prob run it on the stock ecu untill i have more money to spend, still have no idea what to do about lift pump, swirl pot and fuel pump though, you got any ideas? what did you use??????????
Hi mate,
In the Mk1 you have a vertical tank with the pick up right at the bottom. So if you keep enough fuel in you are generally ok 1/4 of a tank at min. Reduces the capacity but saves a load of greif. If you are doing a capri "caprimentle" i think most go for the 2.8i tank The other way is using a low pressure pump into a swirl pot and then high pressure after that
cor you should be a mechanic detective type person with them type of noticing skills , i was thinking 2.8 tank but they do fetch one hell of a pretty penny now days. do you reckon the pinto pump would provide enough flow or do you reackon i should get a facet carburetor type fuel pump that does about 25 gallons an hour?
Ok Dave, last post was in Feb. BUMP BUMP!!!!!
Welcome to Turbosport University
Bookmarks