You have plenty of room for a TTS Supercharger
Very nice build.
You have plenty of room for a TTS Supercharger
Very nice build.
Amazing project and very nice work, this is going to be a proper build!
TBH Leafy, I don't know. As things stand at the moment the bellhousing is empty. I'm just doing a dummy build to make sure the chassis mounts are all in the right place. Once this is done, I'll pull the engine/box out for an engine build.
Thanks for your ideas about the Duratec bearing. I hadn't really thought too much about it.
I got a book out of the library called something like 'Automotive Fibreglass' by Dennis Foy.
Working with fibreglass is a messy horrible job, but gives you almost limitless creative opportunities if you don't mind putting in the effort.
With the engine propped in place, I've spent hours with my digital angle finder to make sure all's square. Measure twice and cut once is my motto, but in this case it seems I'm measuring ten times and cutting.... eventually! First step is to fabricate the gearbox mount...
These two parts are recycled parts from a bracket that was originally used with my V8 fitment.
I would love to own tube notching machinery, but until I win the lottery I'll have to do it this labour intensive way.
I know that with MIG welding my notch fit does not have to be this neat, but I'm trying to discipline myself in preparation for TIG welding in the future.
Here it is MIG welded. Okay - its not as neat as I would like, but this part is underneath the car. I'd love to use TIG for the more visible welds, but that will be a big investment and a learning curve for me.
I did invest in a band saw - this has saved me so much elbow grease.
I'm using a single engine mounting bush mounted sideways for the gearbox mount.
Here, I'm using a wooden 'dummy' bush to centre the mounting bolt. I've whittled this from a piece of 2x2. This way I can weld the bracket without burning the rubber of the actual bush.
To cut two brackets of identical shape/dimensions I like to bolt them together then file them as one unit.
Okay - I really need to look into TIG welding.
A quick coat of etch primer and I'm done. I'll go and press the bush in now. Next, thing on my to do list is the engine mounts. Anyone out there using TIG welding for fabrication?
You need to get yourself a cut50d, cheapo plasma cutter makes notching tubes and cutting plates a breeze.
Nice fabrication work beeRS!
Gonna be interesting to watch - do love these projects, lovely work so far
Good work with the mig. I tig weld all my car work whenever i have the time and convenience to do so. There are some situations though when the only logical solution is the mig, work under the car on your back or other uncomfortable situations. I use Kemppi welders, very pleased. The feeling of control of the puddle with tig cant be beaten
/David
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Whilst mulling over which TIG to buy, I've made some progress with the engine mounts. At least I can give myself a head start by tacking the engine mount brackets together with my MIG for now.
I'm using pre-cut Duratec mounting flanges from Retro Ford. For the price it just isn't worth making my own - especially when you work as slow as me. For a good weld I've ground the millscale off the centre.
Although my wooden dummy bush worked OK for the gearbox mounting bracket, I cannot say I was over the moon by its accuracy. I spoke to Dave at Retro Ford (he really is a helpful chap), and ordered an extra bush to act as my new dummy. Grinding down the surface of the bush so that it slips in/out of the housing only required the removal of a fraction of a mm.
I call these the 'big nose' brackets. They're the chassis side of the engine mounting brackets. I'm cutting them from 5mm mild steel using my band saw. In the upright position the band saw has a bolt-in table and I can use it as a jigsaw. Its slow work and I'm paranoid that I'll cut my fingers off, so I work extra slow. I could do without spending an evening in A&E.
Using the same method as I did with the gearbox mounting brackets, I've bolted the 'big noses' together and ground them to the exact shape with my flap wheel.
Tacked into place with dummy bush acting as the perfect spacer here. I'll probably add some side ways strengthening webs in later.
Now, I could make the arm of the bracket in the usual way using steel tube, but I never seem to take the easy route. Here, I've mocked up my up-side-down T-section bracket in cardboard.
This is the O/S bracket done - ready for seam welding when I've got my TIG. I was going to put some lightening holes in the bracket, but its too late now!
N/S bracket made in exactly the same way. I've used 5mm plate here - not sure if this should actually have been 6mm. I used 6mm for the V8, but I'm reasoning that the Duratec is a whole lot lighter.
Love the look of those bkts...will copy if you dont mind...coming on strong...i think 5mm is plenty strong....cheers mark
Nice bit of fabrication there .......is the chassis rail going to be stiff enough loaded like that without reinforcement?
I work as a salesman for welding equipment actually, and i can tell you that you get what you pay for. I'd say for a beginner whos not going to do any aluminium, budget atleast 1500-2000 pounds for a good quality brand DC machine.
A Kemppi minarctig evo200 mlp or something similar is a good choice. Esab actually have a ac/dc 220amp machine thats just slightly more expensive than the kemppi though.
/David
Last edited by Gyver; 25-02-2017 at 10:59.
Wait you said you get what you pay for and just pulled out a no name. Name brand is Miller, Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Arc, and Hobart. Kemppi sounds expensive if something from E$AB is only slightly more expensive though. Alpha-Tig is definitely the best of the non-name brand and better than the entry level stuff from the name brands. Basically if you're not buying something with a water cooler torch alpha-tig is the best bet.
Thanks for all your tips on TIG welders guys. I spent ages researching what would be right for me and fit within my budget. Eventually I ended up with this R Tech AC/DC Inverter welder. This should do all I need and hopefully I can try my hand at aluminium welding in the future
Sitting comfortably seems to be important to get a good steady TIG welding bead and so I've built this dedicated welding table from 20x20mm box section and a 1/2" thick steel top.
A few test runs on the TIG shows me that I need a LOT of practice.
After days of mucking about and testing different settings I managed to do this!
Engine mounts are now complete and here they are with a light coating of etch primer and the bushes pressed in.
I thought I was never going to get to this stage! At last the engine is holding itself in place and I can give the screw jacks and wooden props a rest.
Now the fun part - can I fit a supercharger or maybe a turbo....
very nice ...
Mocking up a C30-94 supercharger - but its not going to fit. Even if I tucked it in tight up against the block here it hits the N/S suspension tower. No space on the O/S either.
Oh well - it will have to be a Turbo.
This will be my first turbo install. So, if there's any turbo experts on here, any advice on sizing a turbo would be greatly appreciated.
EFR is the king of the heap for turbos right now. a 6758 on a 2.5 duratec should make north of 300ftlbs from 2k-something rpm to ~7500 rpms, peak torque in the high 400s and hp somewhere in the low 400s. A step up from there is the 7163 like I'll be running on my 2.5. Which should get you north of 300ftlbs by about 3k rpm and carry that to 8k rpm that ought to be able to get close to 600 ftlbs peak and around 500hp. Anything smaller than these would just be silly.
Thanks for that Leafy. That EFR 6758 sounds perfect. There's two options, a single scroll with 0.64 A/R, or a twin scroll with 0.92 A/R. Any recommendations on which?
Also, what are you doing with the internals (rods, pistons crank)? 7.5-8K RPM is quite impressive for the long stroke 2.5 Duratec!
You probably want the single scroll. I think you'll want the ewg version, I had the iwg 6758 on my old 1.8BP and I struggled with actuator alignment. A lot of people have that complaint.
I'm just going to leave it as is. It's going to be tuned to hold 300ftlbs through the rpm range for drive ability, and plenty of people in the states are running them to 350ftlbs peak. I know a few people running them n/a up to 8k with stock bottom ends.
Cheers Leafy.
Have you got any advice on pistons, compression ratio, boost levels etc?
No advice really on internals. Not many people are building 2.5s for boost in the states because you can blow up every stock tranny that bolts to an MZR with the stock 2.5 internals. I'm trying to get the T5 swap more mainstream so more people will be doing it. I think like 1 company sells rods and pistons and they "house brand" exclusive type stuff. I'd like the compression ratio to be lower to run more spark advance and get better spool up, but its fine. Boost I think I'm going to run around 8-12 psi to get into the 300ftlb area, more down low and up to to compensate for the VE being worse.
Whilst I mull over the engine spec I've made some further progress with the chassis work.
I'm going to make a removable brace to tie the upper part of the chassis legs together. I couldn't do this with the V8, but the Duratec is so much shorter that I've gained a good 100mm of clearance in front of the block. I can't really call this a strut brace, because I won't have any suspension struts. I'm using Mk4 Cortina geometry wishbones.
Got these rod ends and associated bits from Rally Design. One has a LH thread and the other has RH.
Cardboard template...
Cut from 5mm mild steel plate.
Using the same idea as before, I've bolted the 4 steel plates together and shaped them as one part. In my dreams I have a CNC plasma cutter to do this!
This results in 4 brackets that are identical in shape. It satisfies my inner OCD.
Mocked in place and supported on a screw jack.
Brackets are tack welded to chassis rails.
Chamfered ends for a good weld.
Tig welded threaded end inserts and I'm done. With one end having a RH threadand the other a LH thread I can easily adjust the brace width in situ.
BRAVO MATE
Where do you get that rocker cover from please
like... cheers mark
Most rally parts suppliers sell engine mount kits for various engines. Burton, rally design, motorsport tools, RACE list goes on. If you buy a kit the most you will need to source will be engine plates if yours is a none standard application.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/World-Cup-...wAAOSwiONYPpuJ
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENGINE-MOU...AAAOxyYTRSZ5jr
hope the links work shoul give you an idea. With the kits you will also get CDS tube etc. I made mine for my anglia in parts. The bushes from Milton Racing and the tube off ebay
Hey, love your thread, the Mk1 Cortina is one of my favourite fords. Just a thought, can't the supercharger be mounted above the waterpump where you have that idler pulley?
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