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Thread: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

  1. #81
    Mechanic beeRS's Avatar

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    It's been a long time since I last posted some updates. I've not been sitting around - just too lazy to get on the computer , Anyway - here we go on some of the progress made...



    Making up a cardboard template for the cross-member gussets.


    Cut from some 40mm x 80mm box section.


    Mocked up in place before tack welding.


    Fabricating off-side steering rack mount


    Steering rack mount in place.




    Fabricating near-side steering rack mount.


    I'll put some more gusseting in here later on.


    This is not ideal. I scratched my head for ages, but I couldn't come up with anything better. The problem is the mount for the near-side is mounted horizontal, but the off-side is at an angle - the same angle as it would be on a Mk2 Escort (which is what the steering is based on). The near-side bracket could not be mounted at the same angle as it interferes with the bottom of the front cover. Oh well, its just a cosmetic issue really.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Nice work, love bespoke solutions

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    I decided the fibreglass front end needed a little bracing. It would probably be OK without it, but this will mean I can slam the bonnet shut and make sure nothing wobbles about.


    This will be under the slam panel. Its light weight 16mm OD tubing.


    The cardboard template follows the curve of the inside edge of the front wings. Using the same 16mm OD tube I've hand formed to follow the curve of the template. This will support inside of the front wings.


    A mounting bracket with M6 threaded insert. The top edge of the wing will bolt down here. This is the part that would've mounted to the inner wing on an original Cortina.


    Front end bracing complete. This structure will also offer good mounting locations for the catch tank, header tank etc. I can also brace for the radiator, intercooler and induction piping here.


    The radiator will be mounted behind the front chassis cross brace, so I'm drilling a series of 44mm diameter holes to aid airflow to the bottom of the radiator. For what its worth, I'll lose a little weight here too.


    The box section is 2.8mm thick and I've cut out 18 holes. This took a little longer than I was expecting.


    The end result of 'Swiss cheesing'.


    This will allow a little more air flow to the bottom of the rad (or maybe to the intercooler if I do decide to go the turbo route). I think it looks neat too.


    Holes line up perfectly with lower openings in the front valance.

    My next few challenges...

    Fit an LSD to the rear axle and fit with 4 links.
    Source an aluminium radiator (will probably need to be bespoke)
    Decide if I'm fitting a turbo or not (Me thinks that 400+ BHP sounds too tempting )

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Looking good��

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    very nice work...thanks for posting...cheers mark

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    Mechanic beeRS's Avatar

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Before I can crack on with the engine install I've been busy fitting up the suspension to get this thing rolling. Here's some pics of the progress...





    A set of 300mm Hi Spec 2-piece discs with 4-pot calipers should help stopping. I've owned this disc conversion kit for over 10 years now. Its been sitting on my shelf gathering dust. I needed a little advice whilst putting it together and gave Hi Spec a call. They've been really helpful. That's a alloy hub from CompBrake. Altogether it should keep the unsprung weight down a bit.





    Front suspension all together. This should be the ride height once finished. The wheels are 15" Compomotives, but they're going to go. They're just for mocking up.




    I'm not spending big bucks on the rear end. This is the axel from a Volvo 245. Cheap as chips. I saw it for sale in a small ad in the back of Street Machine magazine years ago. I couldn't believe my luck - it was already narrowed as well. Like so many things, its been loitering around my workshop for ages now. The Volvo axel comes with disc brakes and a really good handbrake mechanism built into the centre of the discs. I've fitted Detroit Locker's 'Tru Track' ATB to the diff. Its about half the price of the equivalent Quaife unit (even when you take into account the dollar exchange rate, shipping costs and tax).



    The rear calipers have been fitted with new seals and just get a lick of paint.



    Here's the 4-links. They are stainless steel with poly bushes and all are adjustable so that I can finely tune the pinion angle once installed.





    Axel and prop get a coat of paint. I'm using POR15 Sterling silver. I can really recommend this stuff. If you prep the surface properly is tough as nails.



    I love this pic. You get to see all the hard work gone into the space frame chassis.


    So that's the suspension sorted. You can see my old project RS2000 in the background here.

    Almost time to do some proper work now. Just need to find more time.

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    Racer Decade Plus User mexicotait's Avatar

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Look is good
    The old Ed still looks very nice too
    Hexham and District Motorclub

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Very nice projekt. All handmade and it look's like from stock. Top!!!
    Don't eat yellow snow...

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    I meant the old rs2000 this stupid phone is getting on my nerves

    Both look great
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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by mexicotait View Post
    I meant the old rs2000 this stupid phone is getting on my nerves

    Both look great
    I figured that was what you meant . The RS2000 has had a few updates since I finished it in 2014 (project cars never actually get finished!). I'll have to resurrect that thread and post some updates.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Finishing off the rear suspension before I move on - here's some progress made recently.


    The plating on the rear GAZ dampers was looking a little dull. They have been hanging around for the last decade waiting for me to fit them! I've given them a coat of gloss black enamel - masking off the threads first of course.


    The very nice lady at GAZ was good enough to send me some new GAZ logo stickers for free .


    Job done! Rear suspension finished for now. Dampers on, and panhard rod in place.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    OK - so the front suspension is not quite done yet. There's the small issue of the anti-roll bar. How hard can it be to scratch build an ARB, mount it, and have it working correctly? If I had known before starting, I probably wouldn't have bothered. Here is a few months work abbreviated into a few pictures.

    I measured, mocked up, measured again, scratched my head and then measured some more. The maths behind the twisting force of a steel rod is enough to make you want to pull your hair out. I had some help with an online calculator here...

    http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Sway-Bar-Calculator.html

    Finally, I came up with this drawing...


    I know that 16mm diameter does not sound like much, but I figured this should have the same torsional resistance as the 22mm one on my RS2000. The length of the arms are shorter, and the overall width is less, so in theory the diameter of the bar needs to be less. Who knows how this will work in practice. Its all good in theory, but I won't know till I fine tune the suspension on the track.


    Finding someone supply to bend 16mm EN16T steel at a reasonable price was not easy. Finally, I used Spring Coils in Sheffield.


    This is a Powerflex bush for a Caterham, which I'm splitting (otherwise it wont get on).


    And this is the rear ARB mounting bracket from a Caterham.


    Mocked in place with cardboard top link mounting sliders and a piece of 8mm studding for the drop links (just to check clearances).


    Ordered these parts from Rally Design to fabricate the drop links. One end is LH thread, the other is RH.


    I'm fabricating my own 'sliders' from 25mm thick aluminium plate. This is the part that connects the end of the ARB to the top of the drop links. I will be able to adjust the pivot point back and forth to affectively make the ARB stiffness adjustable - well that's the idea .


    I wish I had a milling machine. I don't, so I'm making these with the help of a pillar drill and a band saw.


    The top hole will clamp around the bar.


    The beginnings of the mountings for the ARB clamps.


    This is everything I've had to source/fabricate for this ARB installation.


    Mountings in place.



    I'm glad that's done . I had no idea that it would be so much trouble to make a bespoke ARB. I should have - as nothing on this build has been plain sailing. Anyway, I've clamped it all up and tested clearance by moving the suspension through its full range of motion with the steering on full lock and nothing fowls.

    How will it perform? Ask me later.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by beeRS View Post
    OK - so the front suspension is not quite done yet. There's the small issue of the anti-roll bar. How hard can it be to scratch build an ARB, mount it, and have it working correctly? If I had known before starting, I probably wouldn't have bothered. Here is a few months work abbreviated into a few pictures.


    This is everything I've had to source/fabricate for this ARB installation.


    I'm glad that's done . I had no idea that it would be so much trouble to make a bespoke ARB. I should have - as nothing on this build has been plain sailing. Anyway, I've clamped it all up and tested clearance by moving the suspension through its full range of motion with the steering on full lock and nothing fowls.

    How will it perform? Ask me later.
    Thanks for this post...ive got to do all the above...and you saved me a ton of work....looks great by the way...stunning build...cheers mark

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Get rid of those poly bushings. You just went through the effort to build your own sway bar, do it right metal bearings or bushings that allow misalignment. Its harder for your style bar because your arms arent removable but they do have split bearings. It makes a huge difference in grip that you wouldnt think it would.

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    Mechanic beeRS's Avatar

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
    Get rid of those poly bushings. You just went through the effort to build your own sway bar, do it right metal bearings or bushings that allow misalignment. Its harder for your style bar because your arms arent removable but they do have split bearings. It makes a huge difference in grip that you wouldnt think it would.
    I must admit, I'm not 100% happy with the mounts. The poly bush does allow a small amount of give. I worried about this for a while - then saw some GT40's with a similar set-up (bushed mountings and rose jointed drop links), so I thought it should be OK.

    I had thought about solid mounts, but its a one piece bar (as you say - the ends are not removable). It means I can't get them on. I've not seen a split bearing. Any idea where I can find these? It needs to have a 16mm ID.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    The issues with the poly isn't the give its the binding. You need to sway bar to freely move through its operating range. You'll want to look for something called a self aligning split bearing or bushing. Might also be called a spherical split bearing or bushing. I know skf makes the bearing version. It ain't cheap though. These guys are new from the last time I looked, just wish they had a bronze sleeve bearing option over ptfe http://hightempbearings.com/Split-Bearings.aspx

    Found these as well. Really what you want https://www.nitexindia.com/split-bolt-flange.htm
    Last edited by Leafy; 19-01-2018 at 12:34.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Not knocking the enthusiasm but really how much will these bars rotate - maybe 10 degrees / 1/8th inch? Is a bearing split or otherwise really warranted? This isn't a carbon tubbed F1 car its a Mk1 Tina with very good suspension - the chassis probably flexes that much?

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    I know it made a noticeable difference on every miata I've upgraded. It never made sense how much the front grip increased going from a normal bar with poly bushings to a Speedway style bar with bearings. I think it's really about keeping more weight on the inside wheel.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1


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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by wildo105e View Post
    Thats a speedway style bar, cant use that style bearing with the ops swaybar.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Been on a bit of a spending spree recently. Just before Christmas, AT Throttles were offering a 25% off promotion, so I scrapped the idea of buying Christmas prezzies for the family and shelled out for a DTH (direct to head) set up for the 2.5 Duratec.


    They really are a thing of beauty! AT had a few delays putting this particular set together, so with Christmas and New Year getting in the way, it took them over 9 weeks to arrive. Well worth the wait though.

    The bodies themselves are machined from billet. The extension pipes and the air horns are aluminium too and everything has been clear anodised. I've opted for the 100mm long 'reinforced' tapered extension pipes here. These are what AT recommend for use on competition cars or with engines running boost. The air horns are the 60mm option. I've chosen a centre pull for the throttle cable and a TPS mount at the right hand side (making it sit nearer the bulkhead in a longitudinal set-up). The throttle cable and the TPS were not part of the 25% discount offer, but I had to get them anyway. There are a few different TPS options available - I went for the Wabash.

    This is the first time I've used AT Throttles. I've had plenty of dealings with Jenvey in the past. Their product is good too, but the AT ones seem to be built a bit better. I've had great service from both companies. I'll see how the AT ones perform eventually once the engines on the dyno. Don't hold your breath - this may be some time .


    Had this radiator turn up in January (told you I was on a spending spree). Its been made to my drawings by Pro Alloy.


    Pro Alloy have been really good to work with. I sent over an initial drawing of exactly what I wanted. They came back to me with a few tweeks and suggestions and finally supplied exactly what I needed.






    I really like the welds Pro Alloy do. I've yet to master aluminium TIG welding myself, but when I do I would love it if my welds looked as good as theirs! I've had various alloy rads over the years and it seems you really do get what you pay for. Pro Alloy finished my rad in what they call a brushed finish and then clear powder coated it. That's a 16" Spall fan mounted on the back.


    I played around with several ideas for making fancy bottom brackets for the rad, but eventually decided that a simple design cut from 5mm steel plate will do.


    This is the bracket primered and with a bolt tapped in.


    Brackets mounted with threaded 8mm inserts in the chassis. I wanted to make these brackets removable as opposed to welding them to the chassis frame. This takes care of the bottom two mounts for the radiator. Pro Alloy supplied the radiator with rubber isolating mounts - basically they're a rubber grommet in a 12.7mm hole with an aluminium insert inside. That'll make sure that if there's any movement in the chassis it won't stress the radiator.








    I got the throttle bodies mocked in place and have to say I love the way they look. It will be a shame to put a plenum over those air-horns.

    The top of the radiator has a temporary mount just to stop it wobbling about. Eventually I'll fabricate an upper mount that will probably incorporate the intercooler mounting points too.

    I've still go so much to do. I guess I'll put off buying the intercooler or the turbo for now (whilst I let my wallet recover). Maybe I'll fabricate the exhaust...

    But I need the turbo to fabricate the exhaust.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Great read & upate as usual, best thread on here IMO
    Regards the ARB, think I would have personally gone a bit thicker but as you say, you can always change it if it doesnt work out cant you.
    If you get stuck for any tube bending or fabrication, feel free to give me a shout as thats what I do for a living

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    What bracket is that that goes where the mazda 3 belt tensioner would go? Are you using mx5 accessories and thats a power steering delete? For others reference you can just get a 1st gen mazda 3 belt tensioner for much cheaper than that nice looking bracket would cost to do the same thing.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by 4parajon View Post
    Great read & upate as usual, best thread on here IMO
    Regards the ARB, think I would have personally gone a bit thicker but as you say, you can always change it if it doesnt work out cant you.
    If you get stuck for any tube bending or fabrication, feel free to give me a shout as thats what I do for a living
    Thanks for your compliments

    I wish I'd known when I was looking for someone to supply that ARB! I will definitely give you a shout when I next need something fabricated.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
    What bracket is that that goes where the mazda 3 belt tensioner would go? Are you using mx5 accessories and thats a power steering delete? For others reference you can just get a 1st gen mazda 3 belt tensioner for much cheaper than that nice looking bracket would cost to do the same thing.
    Thanks for that tip Leafy. The bracket was part of the alternator/pump drive kit I got from Dunnell Engines. Here's a link...

    http://www.dunnellengines.com/durate...tno=RMPI4-3000

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Oh cool, that looks suspiciously like a first gen miata alternator, it is if the plug in the back is a rectangle. On my old motor I dropped a couple extra pounds off with a geo tracker (or a bunch of other geo and kia, but the tracker has the highest output, at least in America) alternator, which is what that probably is if it has a round plug in the back. The two alternators are basically physically interchangeable, except you have to drill the hole in the top tab smaller. The more you know.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
    Oh cool, that looks suspiciously like a first gen miata alternator, it is if the plug in the back is a rectangle. On my old motor I dropped a couple extra pounds off with a geo tracker (or a bunch of other geo and kia, but the tracker has the highest output, at least in America) alternator, which is what that probably is if it has a round plug in the back. The two alternators are basically physically interchangeable, except you have to drill the hole in the top tab smaller. The more you know.
    Thanks for that tip. I had wondered what that alternator was off. It has a round plug in the back...



    I guess this means it is from a Geo Tracker? We dont have that car here in the UK, but I think its that same as our Suzuki Vitara.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    That doesnt exactly look like the tracker one, its definitely a denso though. Same guts as the denso "racing" alternator you can buy on summit, but with some kind of oem casing. I think theres a buch of 90s toyotas that use similar alternators and also hondas but the honda alternators have the cooling fins setup for reverse rotation than the rest of them.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Progress has been painfully slow over the last couple of months, so to keep the enthusiasm up I've decided to abuse my credit card again. I eventually found a cam cover that I liked - REALLY liked! This beauty is from Dave Willett Motorsport (http://davewillettmotorsport.co.uk/). I can't praise Dave highly enough for this gem. Its beautifully made and fits the style of my build perfectly.


    Comes with stainless steel bolts.




    O ring seals.


    Well - this has certainly lifted my enthusiasm to get on with the project.





    A tiny issue with the cam sensor. Far too close to the bulkhead. I'm told that there is a different sensor available which the connector at a right angle to this. If anyone knows what Duratec it comes from please let me know. Actually - should I be using the cam sensor at all? I know there are blanking plates available, but what's the reason for deleting it?





    Because I'm running a wet sump, I'll need to fit a breather hole and add a baffle. This is my cornflake packet template. I'll probably make this in 2mm aluminium sheet.






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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Check rock auto for any Mazda 2003 or newer (or any miata 2006 or newer). Iirc there's a sensor on something where the connector points up. Make sure you get the right type of sensor for your ecu there's 2 wire vr and 3 wire hall. The hall ones have issues with not working well when hot.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by beeRS View Post


    A tiny issue with the cam sensor. Far too close to the bulkhead. I'm told that there is a different sensor available which the connector at a right angle to this. If anyone knows what Duratec it comes from please let me know. Actually - should I be using the cam sensor at all? I know there are blanking plates available, but what's the reason for deleting it?
    You can delete it if you are ok with running non sequential injection and ignition. Potentially better fuel mileage and emissions - if you care about such things.

    Thought - if you turn the sensor 180 degrees, cut off the mount tag then machine up a simple L shaped retention lug bolted in original cover screw hole it'll still work - it'll just pick up the opposite side of the tooth but should be able to be corrected in ecu software? Lovely cover BTW!

  37. #112
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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    That cover is the dogs bits!!

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    Mechanic beeRS's Avatar

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
    Check rock auto for any Mazda 2003 or newer (or any miata 2006 or newer). Iirc there's a sensor on something where the connector points up. Make sure you get the right type of sensor for your ecu there's 2 wire vr and 3 wire hall. The hall ones have issues with not working well when hot.
    Thanks for that Leafy . I think I found a 3 wire type at this link...

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=650&jsn=650

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by katana View Post
    You can delete it if you are ok with running non sequential injection and ignition. Potentially better fuel mileage and emissions - if you care about such things.

    Thought - if you turn the sensor 180 degrees, cut off the mount tag then machine up a simple L shaped retention lug bolted in original cover screw hole it'll still work - it'll just pick up the opposite side of the tooth but should be able to be corrected in ecu software? Lovely cover BTW!
    That's a great idea. It had crossed my mind to turn it 90 degrees and mount it with a small clamp. Will a 90 degree turn work?

  40. #115
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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Any angle will work.

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by beeRS View Post
    Progress has been painfully slow over the last couple of months, so to keep the enthusiasm up I've decided to abuse my credit card again. I eventually found a cam cover that I liked - REALLY liked! This beauty is from Dave Willett Motorsport (http://davewillettmotorsport.co.uk/). I can't praise Dave highly enough for this gem. Its beautifully made and fits the style of my build perfectly.


    Comes with stainless steel bolts.




    O ring seals.


    Well - this has certainly lifted my enthusiasm to get on with the project.





    A tiny issue with the cam sensor. Far too close to the bulkhead. I'm told that there is a different sensor available which the connector at a right angle to this. If anyone knows what Duratec it comes from please let me know. Actually - should I be using the cam sensor at all? I know there are blanking plates available, but what's the reason for deleting it?





    Because I'm running a wet sump, I'll need to fit a breather hole and add a baffle. This is my cornflake packet template. I'll probably make this in 2mm aluminium sheet.






    If anyone is interested in buying one of these works of art you can contact me ( call or txt ) on 07977739515 as the "contact me " on the website is not working

    Dave Willett

  42. #117
    Racer Decade Plus User wildo105e's Avatar

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...=627342&page=4

    post 136. this has a right angle sensor if that helps any.

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    Mechanic beeRS's Avatar

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by wildo105e View Post
    http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...=627342&page=4

    post 136. this has a right angle sensor if that helps any.
    Thanks for the tip. I'm currently weighing up the pros and cons of using sequential ignition and fuelling. I'd have to use an ECU like the Omex 710 (was going to use the 600), so it'll cost more. I've been told that sequential is better for larger injectors and better for throttle response too. Not sure if there's much truth in that.

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    Racer Decade Plus User wildo105e's Avatar

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    My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Eric managed 270 odd bhp on omex 600 and duratec . I know will start a debate but is sequential so much more beneficial for the average car guy ?

    I can post the link to his thread if you haven’t read it later it’s a really good duratec resource.
    Last edited by wildo105e; 03-05-2018 at 19:09.

  45. #120
    Racer Decade Plus User wildo105e's Avatar

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    Re: My mad Duratec 2.5 instalation - Cortina Mk1

    Quote Originally Posted by wildo105e View Post
    I can post the link to his thread if you haven’t read it later it’s a really good duratec resource.
    just realized i already did that above.

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