Hello folks
Recently just got my mk2 back on the road and it's a bugger to start when cold
It will always start eventually and fires uo straight away even if left for a few hours but left for a few days or even over night and it's a right pain
It's running a single 40 on a lynx manifold and runs well
Timing is set to ten degrees btdc
And has a hi torque starter it turns over nice and fast which makes me think it's me doing something wrong
So how should be starting it when cold?
Hexham and District Motorclub
its always going to be difficult unless you connect the choke mechanism
i had the very same problem, a carbon copy of what you are explaining with my xflow, never really did get to the bottom of it.
see here, something might help.
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...259&highlight=
i had a high torque starter also, but it was a nightmare to start when cold, and be perfect all day long once it started once. it got to the stage i had to use easy start to prevent draining the battery. ive the exact same set of carbs now on my XE and it starts first tip of the key. so it wasnt a carb problem.
i think it may have been the cam, what cam are you running??
the lynx isnt great i suspect thats a large part of the issue.
have you done a compression test on a cold engine? ive seen x/flows with knackered valve seats hard to start cold but ok when warmed up
That's one thing I always wanted to do but never got round to it, I'd say the compression on my xflow wasn't great at that stageOriginally Posted by Graham
Why is that Graham?
tortuous route for air/fuel to travel/drop out.
standard twinchoke or twin dcoe both give far better fuel distribution
The single dellorto I have a has a cold start enrichment device but I read that they aren't much use
I get a bit of life out of the engine straight away but takes awhile before I can get it to actually run which makes me think it's something I'm doing
What should I do with the throttle before and during cranking?
Hexham and District Motorclub
the cold enrichment thingys do work, its just most of the with twin carb set ups time they are not really needed.
give it a couple of big bootfuls of throttle before you touch the key, and a tiny bit of throttle when you crank and it should fire up
Should I connect the cold start up
Worth a try?
Hexham and District Motorclub
absolutely it is
What have you got to lose - if you only use it a couple of weeks a year its useful. I used it on my 45 Weber in a '68 Cooper S and was brilliant - Pull knob, crank, start - easy as!
Had a 45 on my old mini. No choke connected. Two pumps of the pedal , hold it down about 1/4 throttle, fired up every time. You just had to hold pedal for 15 seconds or so until it warmed up a little.
try it!
Connected up the cold start and didn't make any difference
Still really struggles to start
Any other ideas?
Hexham and District Motorclub
Unless there somthing wrong with your engine all you can do is before you turn the key give it several stabs of the throttle, and then a very small amount when you key it and it should go.
the only other thing i can suggest is you do a compression test on it when its cold, just incase the problem is a lack of compression
Unless there somthing wrong with your engine all you can do is before you turn the key give it several stabs of the throttle, and then a very small amount when you key it and it should go.
the only other thing i can suggest is you do a compression test on it when its cold, just incase the problem is a lack of compression
Yes you mentioned that before
Similar time last year I had the same problem after I had just put the new engine in and I put a new battery on and it started fine
Now even with a connected to it with jump leads it doesn't turn over any quicker but will start
So my question is could the starter be taking all the voltage from battery on cranking and making it difficult to start?
Hexham and District Motorclub
Just found my compression tester too so will try that
What sort of figure should I expect?
Hexham and District Motorclub
engine spec will make a difference but most engines will have at least 150psi. less than 130 is very poor
if you've excessive resistance in any of the starting circuit your going to struggle - check all the cables thoroughly, earth from battery to body, battery to starter etc etc.
a bad or poor connection anywhere in the circuit causing resistance will cause voltage drop and a lazy system. a 1 volt drop in the circuit will give your starter 30% less power!
Been through all that and replaced a lot of the components
Done voltage drop test too and it's much better now
Battery if freshly charged like this morning started fine
Buts it's losing charge even if left unconnected
Knackered
Hexham and District Motorclub
Try more than 2 stabs of the pedal... Try 10 full pumps to the floor and return to the top.
Crank the engine, don't touch the throttle, if it tries to fire, give it a little bit of throttle.
Edit:
Have you confirmed the throttle pump is working when you press the throttle??
Last edited by M11rf; 08-01-2017 at 15:45.
New plugs. Get a good quality set and gap them down slightly on spec. Check all earths thoroughly. Check pump jets are actually working. Use a mirror to look down carbs as someone stabs the pedal.
All of that hae been checked and now it will start better from cold
Needs a new battery but if it's freshly charged it will start with the choke as it were pulled out
This freezing cold weather we have been having up north doesn't help either
Hexham and District Motorclub
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