looking very solid now....great job...wish i had your dedication....mark
looks even more amazing out in the light great work, all credit to you
I have 2 options for further paint :
1. paint epoxy over this red primer, then filler or filler spray paint over the epoxy to fix the dings
2. bare metal, first filler, then epoxy primer
The second option is normally the way to go.. IF (and only if) there is a quick way to clean the red paint of, and this should be a lot easier/faster then all the old paint layers, i might go option 2.
To think i asked the painter which primer to use when cleaning the car ..
I'm also contacting a second painter for a second opinion.
Now back to ordering a complete bolt set for the car
not worked much on the car lately, but there is some progress to report
made this table for the missus to for good measure.. can't always be working on the car can we
found some drum brakes to be reconditioned
back plate and drum powder coated, have new inside parts on order
Ordered some bolts from Retrobolts, very happy with the labeling and bagging of all items.
Spoke to some other painters then the one i worked with and they all say to remove the red 1k primer. I now know why..
So invested in some 3M removal tools
and some proper epoxy primer this time ..
did a test piece, removed the red primer, cleaned and sprayed epoxy primer. Removal tools work great btw. Also using a rupes sanding machine
Then started the most difficult to reach area first, engine bay
and epoxy primered
Last edited by filipvdv; 06-06-2015 at 08:15.
I guess I can get used to having white primer envy
What's the reason the red primer is so bad?
Out for a drive on a sunny spring day reminds me why I got this car
great work fella
thx guys :-) spirit was critical after the primer news, now back on top of my game
Several other painters indicated this is a 1K primer, which could react with the paint layers that will be sprayed on top. This primer also dissolves very easily with simple thinner. New paint also could crawl under this red primer when sanded down a little too far and start eating the layers from below. I dont want to risk anything when doing and expensive paint job. But since already 3 painters all say the same, i'm guessing removal is the only good option.
I also did a test where i sprayed my good epoxy primer over this red primer. I then sanded through the epoxy so there was a only a little bit of red primer visible. Cleaned this with thinner, and both layers just dissolved which is not good.
this primer apparently is mostly used when you need to protect bare metal during work, but never for a good basic layer.
lesson learned, i followed the guidelines of the wrong painter i guess.
I was reading the pages where you were using the aerosol primer and wondering why....glad you found out now and stripped it. A 1K aerosol like that is just acrylic, very little adhesion or corrosion resistance, certainly not worthy of being used ona full bare metal respray. The 1k will be porous if left for any time outside or in damp conditions and will shrink and crack finishes on top of it. You may find it easier rather than stripping it with adhasives to get a big drum of thinner and lots of rags and it will probably just wipe off. Epoxy is the way to go, but I guess you know that now.
you are right, i also tried removing the primer with cleaning thinner and this works very fast as well. I bought a big 10litre of cleaning thinner and plan on using it to help speed stuff up. Combined with some scotch brite i really eats it up. But this will be done outside, with a mask.
To be continued ..
now your on the right track!!
08 ford mustang 4.0l v6 4.10 gears5 speed auto vortech sc 16psi intercooled custom intake/meth inj.
looking good, wont be long before paint
Finally an update .., started working on fitting the gartrac boreham arches
Rear arches
WIP on front arches, made some templates to match other side perfectly
Fitting the front spoiler, made some measuring points to make sure its perfectly aligned
View as the car sits now : rear and front arches fitted with tek screws ready for final tweaking. The sides of the front spoiler still need work
Very happy with the results so far since this was a proper nightmare (probable due to lack of experience on this matter) ! when researching for examples it appeared everybody is doing his own thing and fits them "as they fit". So guess there is no real right or wrong
First of all, congratulations on your amazing work and dedication. Before you chop up those front wings though I think you should look again at the positioning of your front arches and spoiler which look a bit out to me (I think the arches are too high or need to be rotated forward a bit. You'll find a useful discussion about it here:
http://bbs.rallyesportescorts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=68255&page=4
HTH
dropped the front arches about an inch below the swage line, looks a bit better now. Looked at some rally cars and they had it flush to the swage line, but i'm not planning on rallying the car (yet )
Thanks also to Dangerdave80 for helping me out ! and others for pointing it out
How the car looks now :
even did some panel beating to get the arch flush to the body panel. There was quite a big gap initially
Next up, front spoiler !
Spot on
small update that took a serious amount of time. fitted the front spoiler with tec screws after lots and lots of measurements. I even made a spreadsheet so i could calculate the position of the spoiler based on pictures of other cars and even did some photoshopping merging layers
Now i'm confident its spot on compared to the example cars if follow
getting there what colour ya going for.
Looks great. Top job.
thx guys ! just need to dress the edges of the front spoiler
Colour so far is white but can change. want to keep low profile on the road if thats possible with these cars lol ☺
nice
Last edited by filipvdv; 23-08-2015 at 11:08.
Not much work has been done on the car lately due to working, working, working...
Still managed to get a little done, but not on the car. I couldn't stand the look of the lift platform anymore, so gave it an freshen-up.
There were U-shaped metal bars on top of the platform that made on-offloading a pain in the ..
So i torched them to pieces
Then came the really fun work of grinding the huge welds away and remove the leftover metal pieces. Pretty thick metal was used when building this thing.
then gave the platform a good grind/cleanup. It got pretty misty at some times :-)
How it looks now.
Still need to extend the platform a bit so it closes the current gaps.
Your garage never fails to impress me! But I'll admit, your car is catching up now too
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the wife would have to drag me out of there, kicking and screaming
did some cleanup work on the front arches
had to trim the edge a mm further to allow for some seam filler to be applied. So quickly made a tool which did the job nicely of marking a line
I had to weld some holes from trial fitting. I tried using some copper at the back of the hole to prevent a huge weld pile-up.
picture of the back where the copper plug was held. Looks good
hole filled
weld grind flush
another hole filled
the arch is now nicely trimmed
nice work...coming on great..cheers mark
Nice job
Thanks guys !
looks amazing job, very talented
Decided to get the engine revision on the road. Bought an engine years ago and finally started dismanteling it to check the condition
a rattling sound in the sump didnt ring any good bells... i found a crankshaft spacer that was bend and damaged...
also the crankshaft was damaged
20151029_212905 by daphilbe, on Flickr
The cylinder walls were also showing signs of overheating so i decided to ditch this engine and go for another one, since i had to find a new crankshaft anyways
The new engine, a sierra 2.0i s
i also bought a 1600gt head, so now i have to decided which head to use. The injection or the 1600gt head
new block cleaned and rust convertor applied
taping done
epoxy applied
and final colour paint, i decided on red since i wanted something different then the ford blue which is nice too
finally something shiny to work with
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