looking good keep up the good work
looking good keep up the good work
there's a lot of boring cleaning and sanding work going on, but wanted to show some pics to keep the thread alive
I got a stainless steel top that i cut to fit on my bench. this is perfect for working with grease and oil and stuff
I was building up the engine but couldn't stand the look of the dirty aluminium parts. I tried cleaning and sanding it but no good. So i decided to take it all off and put it in 2 pack paint.
putting parts in epoxy
thats all for now, hoping to put some colour on the parts tomorrow
Last edited by filipvdv; 05-12-2015 at 22:08.
cool work..every time i see your workshop...it looks better than my kitchen...
thx man, the workshop is far from finished to my liking, but we cant have all can we .. i would like the floor and walls painted. but this will have to wait until the car build is ready, there's too much mess now with painting and grinding
some black parts painted
and some grey parts painted
next up assembly !
nice work,will be watching with interest!
nice work, cant believe ya have a cooker in there,
did a quick mock up of the engine to see where i'm at
Cleaned the front bumpers and gave it an expoxy layer of paint
Prepped the cambelt tensioner set, ready for installation
Then a big step in the body section, I glued the gartrac Boreham wheel arch kit to the car and installed all rivets. This job turned out great.
First step was apply a little bit of the body glue
Even the coat of glue to a wider layer
One layer of glue to the car
All rivets in place
I used a special body glue gun and the 3M Body Glue 08115
Work is still in progress on the head, so hopefully this will be finished soon so the engine build can continue.
coming along great now....do you use a primer between the epoxy and final coat...cheers mark
Are you painting the hardware or powder-coating it? Either way, it looks amazing. The car is an enormous credit to you, the standard of work looks really superb. Well done.
we'll have to see what the sanding brings, for now i'm trying to go the hammer/dolly, then minimal filler, then contact the painter to see what he thinks. Epoxy is hard to sand i've been told, so an extra layer of primer eases sanding. But i'm not sure yet if we go that way.
The last pics are all painted parts. I have some powder coated parts coming in tomorrow like the springs which all are be going through a tougher life :-)
Painting is a lot more work for me. I have to clean, prep, prime, paint and bake the parts. In case of powder coating its a matter of dropping it off at a mate :-) He sandblasts the parts, dips it in cleaning baths and powder coats it.
thanks for the comments guys !
Re. your previous question on galavanic corrosion, provided the disimilar metals are coated you wont have an issue, if you fitted uncoated aluminium against mild steel the alu will act as an anode and become sacrificial given it is a less noble metal, ie. the alu will corrode. The key is to insulate the two materials from eachother to prevent galvanic action.
you are right. Here is where the 3M 8115 comes to the rescue. It contains glass beads that help maintain the distance between the 2 parts and the bondage also acts as an isolator. The metal was additionaly primed with epoxy. So i'm pretty sure i'm good.
I got a second low milage gearbox that i will be using. But first it comes apart to receive a check-up.
Bugger cleaned
Looks good on first sight
Painted the front shocks billstein yellow
And got some parts back from powder coating
the head was cleaned and the valves were recut. Also did some minor head porting
Reassembled the head ready to be put back on the engine
I'm working on several items at the same time to keep progress going.
Cleaned the rubber boots of the front struts
My dad lightened the flywheel on his lathe. Went from 9.1kg to 6kg. We did not go the extreme and kept it pretty safe.
Repainted the head since it took some damage from the work done to it.
Ready to be reunited with the block
it,s coming along
that looks very nice
Nice work mate, good to see you're taking your time over the detail, it's worth it in the long run, well prepared cars are the reliable ones
been a while since last update. Busy life (work, sick, kids), the usual..
anyway got some stuff done. I'll let the pictures do the talking
Lightened flywheel installed and new clutch and new friction plate
took the gearbox apart and started rebuilding it, replacing parts where needed
new engine mount rubbers
front suspension ready to be rebuild
Last edited by filipvdv; 29-02-2016 at 21:06.
Hi from NZ. Just read this whole thread (working....), epic and thank you for sharing. I can only hope mine will come out half as good!
life always gets in the way of a rebuild, nice work.
some great progress, looking great.
took the starter apart, gave it a good clean, and reassembled
[url=https://flic.kr/p/EcVuiS][/url
Wanted to test fit the starter, but the engine stand was blocking it, so have to take the engine off the stand and try mounting it on the other side to get access to the starter hole
But like the look of the 2 parts reunited ! :-)
Hat off to you....
Quality work going on there.... Very impressed
looking fantastic, keep up the good work
Thanks again guys !
Starter finished, revised and painted
Steering house got the usual treatment, clean, prime, check, paint
Doorskins removed because they were warped (brainless welding by somebody in the past-not me) way too much to repair and had some rot.
Inside of the doorskin, some rot, a hole and warpage
Cleaned the inside and repaired the edges where needed. also gave the edges anti-rust treatment
Inside of doors epoxy primed
Doorskins themselves got epoxy primed, they are magnum skins
Next up is to mate the skin to the door frame again
That's it for now !
love it
i want to glue the doorskins to the frame and didnt want to go buying a dozen pliers for just this job.
So made my own.
Had a left over L profile from the garage door
With minimal operations made some sort of panel clamp
which work pretty good for a rush job
next up is to mate the 2 door piece finally
Cool..what adhesive are you going to use...cheers mark
I use the same stuff as i did with the boreham arches, 3M 08115 Panel bonding adhesive. Works really nice.
I made some pics of the first door i bonded today.
Get both sides to bare metal where the bonding adhesive will be
Apply the adhesive. You don't need a lot. First a thin line
Spread the glue, i used a piece of hard tape measure. Apply the glue on both parts, the skin and frame. I did spread it a little better to the sides which you cant see in the picture
Both parts united and clamped together
Fantastic attention to detail keep up the great work
Here are some more pics of the second door where you can see the adhesive is spread properly. first a lay down a thin bead of adhesive. Take a piece of an old measure tape and use that to spread the adhesive. Only takes 1 motion to get is spread like this.
With one tube of 3M bonding adhesive i did the 4 boreham arches, front spoiler and 2 doorskins. The tube is almost empty now.
Just read this whole thread and loved it,welldone and keep up the good work
4 doors for the lanes........and shopping
loving the idea of making ya own clamps
Bookmarks