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Thread: Helpful XE conversion thread

  1. #41
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Yesterday we made a big step with the head!
    Removed the old water pipe, cut a thread and screwed in a 90 Degree fitting! Fits perfectly!
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  2. #42
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Hi Guys good thread this but I am in the process of fitting a XE to my escort and as earlier mentioned the level of the engine is at an angle can someone advise what an acceptable angle. The engine has a dry sump and the gearbox is a Type 9 the car gas an auto tunnel.
    Engine is sitting at an angle (as in it dips down at the back). Sump sits approx. 5mm above steering rack (is this enough clearance) the gearstick mounting plate is almost through geastick hole I even cut the tunnel a bit raised the gearstick mount about 1" (engine still not level and prop locating part of gearbox heading up through the tunnel almost) Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong (forgot to mention that engine will be chassis mounted)
    I like the idea for the coolant pipe at the back running a heater rather than one of those electric demisters sounds good.

  3. #43
    Pit Crew Decade Plus User onecamohv's Avatar

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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    its always going to be at an angle unless you make serious modifications.
    Ive a large group 4 tunnel in mine, with the type 9 as high as it will go (tailshaft is up through the floor) and its still at a slight angle. sump is 10mm or so from the member
    5mm is pushing it a bit i think, bit too close for comfort for me, as the engine mounts wear that 5 will become 3.
    Alot of guys have fitted them with standard tunnels at mad angles with no problems as the pick up is in the back of the sump.
    It looks rubbish though, i wasnt able to live with it so fit a big tunnel

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  5. #44
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Thanks onecamohv as it is dry sumped oil in engine should not be a problem just worried about OIL in the gearbox not to clued up on the internals but have read that if sitting high at the back that oil can leak from back of box (don't know as to what angle this will happen) box is not at that serious an angle so front should be getting oil to bearings and gears.
    Have also read that the pinto sits at an angle.
    So you reckon to increase clearance to steering rack should be about 10mm.

  6. #45
    Pit Crew Decade Plus User onecamohv's Avatar

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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    i wouldnt go any less than 10mm, between mounts settling and engine movement etc its too close for comfort for me.
    if you've already got the mounts welded you can always just space the xmember down a bit.
    pinto is mounted at an angle for sure, as is the xflow and most other for engines.
    what tunnel are you running?

  7. #46
    Pit Crew Decade Plus User onecamohv's Avatar

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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    you can see here this is where mine sits with the standard tunnel before i cut it out, then with the large tunnel
    in fact i think i even raised it more after i cut the rest of the tunnel out. the prop shaft is only about 1-2 inches from the floor where it comes out of the box if i remember


    Last edited by onecamohv; 07-04-2017 at 09:12.

  8. #47
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    if you dont run a heater foor the screen you could always go down the heated front screen route .

  9. #48
    Pit Crew Decade Plus User onecamohv's Avatar

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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Quote Originally Posted by andylad View Post
    if you dont run a heater foor the screen you could always go down the heated front screen route .
    thats ok if you dont use your car on the road in winter, if you do its a nightmare, your feet would fall off with the cold - been there done that.

  10. #49
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Another big Issue found due to compleating my engine.
    After fitting the Tony Law Pipes the new manta style wet sump did not fit!
    We talk about 45mm...
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    What the hell went wrong?? Some Ideas??

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  11. #50
    Pit Crew Decade Plus User onecamohv's Avatar

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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    thats normal for alot of off the shelf exhausts - you need to cut the wing off the sump and weld on an aluminium plate.
    dont cut it so it barely misses the exhaust, you need a decent air gap as you will see elevated oil temps if using the car hard due to the red hot exhaust heating the sump!

    http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Info_sheets/O...for%20RDS1.pdf
    Last edited by onecamohv; 15-05-2017 at 08:42.

  12. #51
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Quick and dirty answer! Fast as usual! Thanks again!!
    So letīs cut the part of!
    For the heating issue , I would like to glue or screw a "shield" on the sump, and use these Exhaust wrap to protect the pipes!

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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    i have a piece of aluminum heat shield tied with safety wire to a small simple bracket i made coming off the xmember, works great - although i dont have this problem my exhaust misses the sump so i still have a full sump

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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Back again to the Propshaft.
    I have the so called "Köln" Axle in the back. The original 1,3 Liter Kent with the 4 Speed gearbox was conected with a two peace Prop. After fitting the Engine with the Type9 Gearbox the Prop Shaft is about 2.5 Inch too long...
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    Which Prop shaft do you use? Can anyone send me the total length?

    I also need a picture from the side to see how far the gearbox /Gearstick sits back in your cars. Reference point could be the two floor stiffer plates...
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    But never the less...the engine is mounted!
    But without the Prop shaft i cannot start welding the mountings... or I just need to modify the propshaft after fitting the engine...
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    you are not going to be able to run that axle, they're complete rubbish. they cant handle the power of a standard pinto, never mind an xe.
    you need to upgrade to a minimum of an english axle and get a t-9 to english single piece prop

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  18. #56
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    Helpful XE conversion thread

    I've got a 60g behind my xe and a tran x before that, both of which are dimensionally the same as a type 9. I use a standard atlas/English 1 piece prop and a tunnel riser. The riser gives everything a bit more tolerance!

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    Helpful XE conversion thread

    Some pics for your reference 😉

  21. #58
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Great Pictures and great comments!Thanks to both of you!
    I found some nice descriptions from" Classic Ford Magazin August 2011" So I will go for the English axle solution!
    BUT yesterday I found the next issue...
    The bloddy expensive nice looking Tony Law Exhaust doesnt fit!! The steering colum shaft goes straight through the manifold... they just made for the RHD boys, not for stupid germans ;o)
    So we need to modify it...
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    Last edited by skmotorsport; 28-07-2017 at 12:34.

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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Some good Tips to create the engine mountings...
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    Now the engine is sitting in a good position!
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    Next job is to close the dizzy hole at the back of the head!
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    And the drawing for the Plug! Please note that the numbers are in mm
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  23. #60
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Oil Temperature from oil pump plug.

    Click image for larger version Name:	Oil temp.jpg Views:	84 Size:	71.8 KB ID:	83365

  24. #61
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Hi folks,
    tried to start the engine yesterday. But my starter is just clicking. My question is which cables are going to the starter??
    From the old 1300 Kent Engine loom there are three cables going to the starter! The big power cable which I connected to the big stud, a black/red cable and a black/yellow cable.Which of theese two small cables are nescessary??
    Click image for larger version Name:	Cable.jpg Views:	62 Size:	105.7 KB ID:	83503

  25. #62
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Have you still got your old solenoid in circuit ? It’s hard to tell from your picture. To starter you should have large cable from battery, two smaller wires, the thicker of the two is charging circuit/ car feed wire and the smaller is start wire which goes to the spade connection on starter solenoid.
    If the original solenoid is still in circuit that needs removing.
    Last edited by Colr6; 23-01-2019 at 10:03.

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  27. #63
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    Click image for larger version Name:	Starter.JPG Views:	57 Size:	73.8 KB ID:	83504
    Thank you for the fast answer!
    The issue is that the starter made only a klick noise...I ordered a new starter to be sure that the starter is OK.
    But I think that the yello/black cable is only for the old coil pack! now I use a MBE Kit with separate a coil.

  28. #64
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    To check if it’s a car wiring fault or starter, get a slave battery with jump leads. Neg to earth, pos to large connection on starter solenoid Then take a wire from pos on battery to the spade on starter, it should spin it up. Also check engine earthing.

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  30. #65
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    i had this problem when i went from kent to XE, i thought the starter was locked, or worse the engine. il post my wiring diagram later when im home and how i fixed it!

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  32. #66
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    Re: Helpful XE conversion thread

    That would be great

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