random megajolt questions

[Dan]

well ive decided to go down this route.. because i miss soldering, i used to do loads at school and uni, and i feel the need for a good dosing of lead fumes. plus ive seen built up kits on ebay for 90quid, so if i change my mind i should be able to sell it and make a profit

1st stupid question: does anyone have a TPS that they can measure the min and max resistance of? im guessing by the pics ive seen they are basically a normal 12v potential divider (variable resistor) which you can get from maplin for less than £3, as long as i know the correct resistance values it should save me a few quid.

2nd stupid question: what sort of HT leads do i need, im guessing they need to be compatible with coil packs and that, do they have to be ford ones and from which year/model should i be looking for? also do you need to change spark plugs or will regular ones be ok?

also im thinking it might be a good idea to have a thread on here with some regular advance curves and 3d maps for people to copy and learn from.. ive got a workshop manual which has a few in. i'll get them scanned... and also links/info about building a decent map/curve.

cheers
dan

[alladdin]

2nd question. leads must suit engine and coil pack used, if it was a skoda you wouldnt need ford leads but for a zetec install then mondeo ones might be usefull.

1st q. will answer later

[dangerousdave]

Dont bother with 1) just go to your local scrappie and find a zetec mondeo and 2 screws and its yours.....cheaper than maplins

2) just get a coilpack and leads from the scrappy, anything from a 1.1 single point injection fiesta to a zetec As for plugs i think i used standard ones ok, the fiesta 1.1's run ngkR's but the r is only a suppresor for interference as far as i could find out

And as for maps my one is in darth's mj post and he used it ok, i also sent it to one of johnsons friends i think from the locost forum maybe? and i think it was ok for him too?! id imagine its pretty good for you, might just need to knock the advance down a bit but not sure what max advance 1300's run, if its the same then mine would be a good base to start from

[Dan]

cheers guys

its going on an xflow, standard megajolt install so with a ford coilpack/edis .. so im guessing i need late model modeo leads??

i am once again without transport so cant really pop round to the scrapyards as ive broken me gearbox, well it still works in 3rd and 4th, so i can still drive it to the place im having the 5-speed conversion done.. and if i had more clutch left id carry on driveing it about as it wasnt that bad pulling away in 3rd

i might give the scrappies a ring and see if thei'll post, as it'll probably be cheaper than ebay, or see if i can find some within tube/cycling distance

and dave, apparently i was running 40degs at the rolling road day , it dosnt pink but with the amount its overfueling i dont think it can.. i should run it a bit lower than that but i'll find your map and work from there... there wasnt a 'engine management' section when you did your install so i thought it would be good to maybe have a sticky with everything about maps collected

[Graham]

you should use resistor type spark plugs, non resistor plugs often cause missfires and bad running due to ecu interferance, it doesnt matter what leads you use as long as they are not copper wire ones ( very rare these days and havnt been fitted to cars since the 1950's anyway) they just need to fit the coil pack you use and be the right length,

if i were you i'd find a coil pack and matching ht leads of an HCS fiesta/escort engine, it will mount to your block were the dizzy used to go and the ht leads will be the right length for your x/flow

[Graham]

1300 wont want much of a different advance curve to a 1600, afterall the combustion chamber shapes are the same, it will possibly want a bit more advance than a 1600 as the cylinders will obviously hold less mixture

[johnny5]

Dan if your handy with the solder iron get the kit from the states £37

http://www.autosportlabs.com/product...products_id=31

when you go to that page change the doller bit at the bottom right to pounds

[alladdin]

i agree with the scrappy aproach, but if you need the info - mondeo 4k ohm suzuki gsxr 5k ohm

[dangerousdave]

Dan i think i have a spare coilpack/edis module and a crank sensor your welcome to borrow and replace or give them back when you get your own, im keeping them in stock as spares for mine but its not gonna be back on the road for a few months and i never had any troubles in the few months i ran it!

Graham funny you should say that as i did have a small intermittant missfire at around 6k rpm just cant remember if i was running the resisted plugs or not without uncovering the car and looking!

Dan for the leads just run anything 4 pot ford which runs a coilpack like i said! depending where you mount the coilpack you may want to run 4 of the longer leads (there are usually 2 long2 short ones )

And dan i think mine runs around 40 degs max might be 42 for part throttle and dropping off to 38/39 for full throttle But i based it upon the site dave roberts and matt used for redoing dizzies and used the graph off it for where to put in full advance etc, just need to get it on the rollers and see whats happening and give it a tune, if only i had access to my own rollers id love to map it myself on one

[Johnson]

Dont bother with 1) just go to your local scrappie and find a zetec mondeo and 2 screws and its yours.....cheaper than maplins

2) just get a coilpack and leads from the scrappy, anything from a 1.1 single point injection fiesta to a zetec As for plugs i think i used standard ones ok, the fiesta 1.1's run ngkR's but the r is only a suppresor for interference as far as i could find out

And as for maps my one is in darth's mj post and he used it ok, i also sent it to one of johnsons friends i think from the locost forum maybe? and i think it was ok for him too?! id imagine its pretty good for you, might just need to knock the advance down a bit but not sure what max advance 1300's run, if its the same then mine would be a good base to start from

Locost its a Westfield go wash your mouth out lol

I used a set of coil lead adaptors from Halfords on the Westy as I needed much longer leads(this was using the original leads on my engine and taking the boots off at dizzy end).From their Hotlead range and they do both for early and late coil packs.

I have a Mondeo TPS here going spare as well as I used one from RS Components.

As Graham says use resistor plugs as well and shielded wiring fro the CPS and PIP and SAW or else you will get interference(not that I would do anything that daft )

My map is still in the testing stage at the moment as I am having throttle linkage issues along with a few other problems .

Hoping to have it resolved so I can take it to Goodwood sunday for the Breakfast Club meeting.

[Dan]

ace, thanks again guys

i'll see where the nearest scrappies are to me, might not be too hard to get to... i think it probably is the best option especially if i can get everything leads and all, hopefully this weekend i'll be able to sit down and work out exactly what i need and where to fix it, and then where im going to get it from

And dan i think mine runs around 40 degs max might be 42 for part throttle and dropping off to 38/39 for full throttle But i based it upon the site dave roberts and matt used for redoing dizzies and used the graph off it for where to put in full advance etc, just need to get it on the rollers and see whats happening and give it a tune, if only i had access to my own rollers id love to map it myself on one

dave, there is a 'road dyno' thing which would be quite interesting i found on google, cant remember the direct interweb link but you basically run the car on a fixed section of road and it reads all the info from the sensors, and then plots a graph effectivly the same as a rolling road. wouldnt really matter if it was accurate but it would show you the difference in maps, effectivly be your own personal rolling road

cheers for all the recommends tho guys, as always greatly appriciated

[dangerousdave]

Yea yea they all look the same to me

Not too convinced with the road dyno thing, think id rather be on a dyno in real time seeing what changing the advance on each bin does

Oh and dan if possible get the whole bay loom from a 1.1 single point injection fiesta then you wont have problems with the shielded cable johnson was saying about, then just chop out the excess wires and cut the ones you want off at the ecu plug

[Dan]

righty... found a decent looking scrappy near me (bike ridable distance) londonautoparts so i guess thats where i'll be saturday morning looking for a new ish 1.1 festa.. i'll give them a ring first to check although im sure thei'll have one, hopefully i'll get everything in one hit.

then i need to decide what to do with the trigger wheel, more reading of threads i thinks

[dangerousdave]

Good lad, you want one of the late mk3's the facelifted ones and not sure about later ones and ka's etc?

[Dan]

righty.. had my finger on the trigger about to buy, when i thought if anyone else wants to buy one i can and we'll go halves or whatever on the post.. its 15quid for one and 17 for two so it'll save a few pennies, and i could build up two while im at it for a very reasonable rate

i'll order it this weekend, so if anyones interested drop me a PM or message on here

[dangerousdave]

If your capable of building them then do it, you know you can bang it out on ebay @ about £100

[Dan]

well what a bunch of fookers, i rang the scrappies up on saturday morning just before i was about to set off, only to be rudely told they dont do wiring looms, and before i said i was after the coil pack etc the to$$er hung up on me. i cant believe they strip cars and dont retain stuff like that.

so i'll search for another place now, might try calling again but i dunno, i'll get the bits eventually

[MegatronUK]

For the TPS you can pretty much use any type - just hook the MJ box up to your laptop and start up the tuning program; you calibrate the TPS at it's max and min positions and it works the scale out for you... it's pretty trick for a solution that only costs a few quid. The runtime display is very neat

Try and get the wiring that goes with the EDIS, coilpack and VR sensor.. complete if possible (with their original shielding intact) as the system can be quite susceptible to RF interference.