i admit that this isn't major resto project but there's mod's and fixin' to be had.
I bought the car for silly money drove it 15miles and it droped to three cylinders
so after some reading and finding info on the car it was decided to take the head off and found the problem.
the followers had fallen off the valves, it got worse as it turns out the threads had stripped in the head.
Is that picture after it's all been cleaned up, or was there really no oil on the rockers?
Out for a drive on a sunny spring day reminds me why I got this car
thats abit shit. hope you get her back on the road soon.
well the picture of the rockers is after it's been sat a week.
the saga continued when i tried to find a seperate head.
At the moment i think every scrappers yard round here knows me know as theres no unleaded pinto injection heads about, but i did find a leaded on for £25 only 10 miles away!
this left with the problem of a leaded head and wondering what to do, i considered referbing the broken head by drilling and tapping the thread to m16x1 and making a insert on the lathe.
so after a lot of waiting and trying to make my mind up i sorted the exhaust manifold out as it was warped to hell.
A plate was knocked out on the cnc miller, though gas axe would have been quicker but i dont have one, and taken to the weldin department to be welded to the manifold.
original manifold being skimmed, if you can call nearly a mm a skim, level
Flange being machined
After welding
And look how restrictive the original flanges were.
These were taken back to the plate profle using a 6mm carbide endmill in a air grinder, not exactly safe but very quick!.
while i was getting this welded up i was talking to our motorsport foundation degree guy, he a top bloke that builds race cars for a living and he suggest just using some addative. so this was the plan the leaded head is going on and i bought a bottle of valve master plus.
so the head has been fitted.
block ready for cleaning
head bolted on (arp's no less must of been rich that month!)
priming the oil system, the dissy isn't used for any other than to drive the oil pump anyway, worked a treat for priming the turbo as well.
rad in.
when all was bolted on the fule system was primed to pressure only to reveal a leak so new fule hoses were bought, they were expensive and then after paying the bloke said plastic pipes are a third cheeper
Good to see you're making progress.
I'm similarly chucking the ValveMaster in until an injection head turns up within my budget - though I didn't realise they were that scarce at the breakers too
Out for a drive on a sunny spring day reminds me why I got this car
thats a shame about the head, the cars been around a couple of owners recently but it has good specs and results. good to see you cracking on with it though.
Sorry about the state of the exhaust manifold.
I presume you notched out the intake ports on the non-injection head?
I have to say I'm SERIOUSLY chuffed you're making a proper job of it. You're doing all the things i wish i had given it the time for.
Keep us all posted.
John (built the lot up. lol)
Last edited by CapriMMIV; 07-08-2007 at 23:48.
A lot of respect has to be given to john for providing a good base to work from.
actualy went to go for a drive but the battery was flat so that will have to wait till later so off to watch transformers it is!
Thanks dude,
I know there were a few bits that needed finishing/redoing, but that car will be worth all the work.
right then been for my first drive today, only to work about 7 miles.
The car is running very hot as soon as it is stod to the point that it will overheat at idle.
Can someone point me to a more suitable rad, think i have seen a ali one somewhere.
Or dose anyone have any idea think i'll just take out the thermostat for now.
Cheers
Oh and i forgot about the old ford fear, whats that rattle, is it miss firing? quick call the AA!
It shouldn't overheat with a standard rad as long as the thermostat is OK, the water pump works and the rad is not clogged - and, perhaps most importantly, that timing is not way too late.
Late timing creates lots of heat so my advise is to double check that first.
My Pinto turbo has always used a standard 2.0 rad with no problems.
Gustaf
Hmmm,, are you sure the electric fan is coming on when you press the switch? Might be worth checking that and maybe even adding the fan switch to the cooling system.
It never overheated when the fan was on. Cooled it very quickly indeed.
Another option might be to put the standar fan on, but dont forget the fan shroud.
Taking themostats out isnt really the best idea...it ruins the flow of the cooling system and can cause hot spots in places. Just change it, though it isnt very old in the first place.
What ECU are you running?
Well the plot thickens.
Decided to go for a little drive today temp was running fine untill i was just gettin home then it went higher and higher.
Just as i got onto the drive when coolant started leaking from the botton hose its split in the middle.
I've a feeling that there was a air lock or the thermosat was sticking, as the fan worked.
Also the engine wont turn over to start when hot any ideas?
The car's running megasquirt ecu with the megasuirt-extra code.
this guy was help full with getting info from the ecu.
http://www.extraefi.co.uk/
At the moment is an old code that can't be mapped but have got the new version of the code and a base map to get it running but thats a long way off yet as the money gone till end of august and the probe needs an MOT & service soon.
Cheers for this i'll look into it and make sure the vr sensor's not moved during tinkeringOriginally Posted by therealpinto
rad fan turning right way around ?
Hot seizing ?
Hot seizing? sounds bad!
Hot seizing??
Doubt that.
I would look at the starter motor.
I dont know what it is but i seem to have a problem with capris and starter motors, perhaps you've adopted the trait through the car.
Make sure the ECU aint flooding it up, or more likely check the timing isnt too advanced, stopping it dead when its cranking.
Failing that, check the earth points.
The engine was checked throroughly when i built it, it wasnt built tight and it wont be tightening up and as long as oil pressure is still there you shouldnt have a problem.
Last edited by CapriMMIV; 11-08-2007 at 10:29.
wow wot did u dot that?????? it was running mint when my m8 had it
just one them things drove it about 15 miles and the head went!!
i once had trouble starting my old S1 when that was hot.it turned out the battery cable werent man enough because as the heat increases the resistance of the cable increases tooa couple of times i had to get someone to wiggle the cable whilst i tried cranking it until the car actually started turning over.hope this helps.
tommy 2000
over advanced timing will make it run hot and turn over slow, usually worse when hot
had a potter today.
replaced the bottom rad hose oly to find that the alternator belt was rubbing, the alternator is running upside down to clear the turbo actuator.
fixed this buy drilling new mounting holes in the rad to raise the rad by 10mm. checked the bonnet closes and tightened every thing up.
so filled up the rad connected the battery and started her up checked the engine boy to check for leaks...
tipicly i found on but not from the coolent.
The fuel return hose from the regulator was pissing petrol.
Quickly turned the engine off and found some spare hose from when i repaced other fuel lines, the hose was very tight so had to used mr boiling water to help.
some motivational verbal abuse later the hose was on and tightened up.
started up the engine again no leaks so warmed it up.
as mentioned in a earlyer post the temp just rises and dosn't level out.
got the old stobe out and checked the timing, touble is not sure what idle timing should be on a turbo pinto
Then as taking the stobe off noticed there was steam comming of the exhaust manifold.
after i'd stoped shitting myself thinking the head had to come off again looked for the source, now as you cant actual see stean until it cooled a bit this wasn't so easy.
Anyway there's some droplets of water on the core plug where the alternator should be.
so now waiting for the engine to cooldown again to retest and see if this happens again.
Some peole have mentioned the temprimental welders... well the capri will only switch off if the brake pedel is pressed, even if you remove the battery connection it runs for a bit
yeh m8 thats coz it has a turbo timer on it lmao
ppl keep saying that it's got a turbo timer fitted when i dont agree at the miniute 'cause the turbo timer is still in the box it came in plus the fault is less prominant when the engine is warm.
ok a quick update.
checked the timing and it's between 4 and 8 degrees.
ran the car on idel for about 40min and made sure the fan cooled it down when switched on.
Went for a little test drive and seemed ok only a few little niggles.
1. There's a intermittent misfire that buggin the hell out of me. the ignition leads are getting very hot (to hot to touch) and it needs some suitable plugs
2. the afr guage will show that the cars fine once then when turned over later shows it to be running lean.
3. am not used to old school steering being both stiff and wobbly at the same time so i'll have to look into that but it can wait.
Missfire could be the plugs, graham mentioned that when using wasted spark systems (megasquirt/jolt) that you need to use resisted plugs to take out any possible interference from them as they can cause slight intermittant missfires, i know i had one on mine, hoping they will sort it
Wobbly loose feeling steering could be play in the rack/bushes etc
Just to add graham also mentioned about turbo cars needing a good spark check the coil pack and closing the gap down to about 20 thou on the plugs (please check this though i think that it is right though) usually helps this. Like the look of this setup stick with it
Front tyre pressure makes an enormous difference on a Capri.
I would run at no less than 28psi and no more than 30psi. (Well I would run at more than 30 but it wouldn't be responsible of me to suggest it.)
Thanks for the info guy's.
have actaly managed to get to work and back twice (7 miles each way) without the fear of it going tits up.
got a new problem now being about 6'6" my right leg sits between the door handle and steering wheel so turning right is interesting
so next mod will be to saw 6" off my right leg, i may half to walk like a pirate but i'll be able to drive the capri better.
funny though never had this problem 10 yr's ago when i was a few stone lighter
Yep, gapping the plugs to 0.5 mm made a massive difference on my pinto turbo.
IMO you shouldn't need to close the plug gaps. I run standard NGK plugs (resistor plugs) on my turbo Pinto with EDIS, standard plug gaps and I have no problems* at 1,4 bar or just over 20 psi.
Gustaf
* not with the engine, broke 1 Sierra diff, 1 V6 gearbox and 2 Sierra drive shafts in 2 weeks though
Thanks i did gap the plugs but in honesty there were interim standard ngk's.
Sound like you have a monster there gustaf
Two day with the joy of driving my toy then it begins again
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=122028
If you take off the interior trim where the ashtray is, youll see a load of relays and a little clear/pink box. Thats the turbo timer. Its also a remote start thingy, but i never got it hooked up to the alarm.
Thats what is keeping the engine running when you take the key out.
I ran 0.6mm gap at 22psi and had no misfire at full boost - If theres no misfire at full boost, the ignition system is man enough for the job. I do think the coilpack is a liability though, considering the heat it gets subjected to.
As for the steering wobble, i doubt its rack bushes, TCA bushes or ARB bushes - theyre new poly items, and the rack bushes are fecking tight. lol, its also had a new steering rack recently.
My 2.8i had the same problem on the way to france.....wobbles all over the place. Pulled the wheel off there and noticed a bolt has been snapped off when its had brake disks on it - they just left the snapped bolt in and only used 3!!!!! Amazing. I cant imagine how they thought that would be ok. So my problem is warped disks, and considering how shit capri brakes are i wouldnt be suprised if warped disks are what is causing your wobble. Either that or its an unbalanced wheel.
In fairness they were a little bit warped when i sold it. (i kill the brakes on EVERY car i drive for some reason
Last edited by CapriMMIV; 31-08-2007 at 17:57.
cheers for that i must drive sumpatheticly cause the timers never kicked in when warm, i do drive the last few miles of a journey off boost though to let the turbo slow down.
well i tend to change pads when i hear metal on metal(i kill the brakes on EVERY car i drive for some reason
timing should be set at 10degrees btdc at 900 rpm
MY MK1 ESCORT (Now turbo'd)
With programmable timing you can try different idle timing figures to get the best out of the engine. My turbo Pinto seems to like to idle at about 15 degrees, makes it more responsive off idle also.
In general I feel that the Pinto with lowered compression often can take a lot more timing than you think, off boost. I run 45 degrees or close to that in some areas...
Gustaf
with a couple of threads about motivation being posted recently i thought i get of my arse and tinker.
I've bought a 2.8 axel, a spare prob & starter motor so o thought id start small and fit the starter. After 40mins the bolts finly came out only to fine the £5 spare starter has different connections
Have NO motivation at all now with every "liitle" job being a bitch.. Wanted to cut my losses today and sell up it'll pass.
How you getting on mate? If you need a hand i'm only up the road.
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