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Thread: Duratec overcooling in Westfield

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    Duratec overcooling in Westfield

    Hi guys -first post on turbosport, looks to be a mine of expertise!

    I'm having trouble with my Duratec in a Westfield plumbed in like this:



    previously, engine ran at 85-90 degrees with no issues, a holed rad meant I replaced the standard old rad with a 55mm coolex.

    Since then, when the engine gets up to temperature, if I hold it at WOT, the water temperature drops right down, can get as low as 40 if the road is straight enough....

    I've changed the stat with no avail.

    On the advice ofsome zetec owners I've drilled a small hole in the thermostat to get the flow going. This didn't help, the car ran at 100 degrees and warmed up worryingly fast..

    I've put an undrilled stat back in.

    Any ideas ?

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    Re: Duratec overcooling in Westfield

    Welcome to the forum.
    Kinda doesn't make sense that one. Sounds like you've got plenty of flow if it's running cool.
    If you've only changed the rad that shouldn't really affect the engine temperature unless your old rad was a bit clogged maybe? Drilling a hole in the stat shouldn't make the engine warm up quicker.
    If anything that should make it run cooler!
    Does the top of the rad stay cool until the engine is warm?
    The Stat should control the temperature but on another note duratec engines like to run a bit hotter and 100 degrees is what they like to run at.
    I would say that water is getting through the rad somehow before the stat is opening!
    Your gauge wouldn't be faulty by any chance?

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    Re: Duratec overcooling in Westfield

    Thanks Dave.

    The old rad looked to have been on since the car was build (I guess) so I might have been full of shit.

    After a run, the top of the rad is hot and the bottom is cold.

    I doubt the gauge is faulty, too much of a coincidence.

    Could a stubborn airlock be causing it?

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    Re: Duratec overcooling in Westfield

    Hi I have this problem just use a coolant purge machine laser do one 4287 or borrow one you will need a compressor but I could not get air locks out any other way

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    Bodger

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    Duratec overcooling in Westfield

    I also have this problem in a Westfield. The thermostat is very slow to react, I've gone electric water pump just now, see how that goes.

    Worth mentioning that I've got a vacuum coolant system bleeder too, no air locks here


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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    Re: Duratec overcooling in Westfield

    So you think airlock rwd1975? I've had it at all kids of crazy angles on the jack today to try and burp it. Seem to have got a little more coolant in anyway.

    I can't really test it til it's been mapped on the 30th.

    Budslater - I recognise that name, wscc or penisheads? Interested to see how you get on, going electric seems an extreme fix, someone must do a better stat??

    Also, update to my second list, the bottom of the rad isn't cold, I gave it a decent run this morning.

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    Re: Duratec overcooling in Westfield

    Hi my duratec runs at 85-95. Mines is plumbed slightly different in that the pipe from your thermostat housing to expansion tank is blanked at the thermostat housing. My bottom hose to my expansion tank comes from the water housing at the rear of the engine just below the coil pack.

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    Re: Duratec overcooling in Westfield

    Just to close this one off. No airlocks, mapping went well - ended up blanking off 1/3 of the radiator which seems to have fixed it.

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