Now that looks clean and tidy :-)
Now that looks clean and tidy :-)
Well 2 months have gone by and not much progress. Whilst the paint in the engine bay went on really well, when I started to flat the blended edge it became apparent that the paint shop had done the engine bay in base coat and clear lacquer so it's got to be redone the same. Bugger.
Spoke to the the body shop to do this but cut a long story short due to slot availability, transport costs etc I'm going to have a go myself. I've done a fair bit of paint over the years and I've a fair hand at it. Just controlling the environment around the engine bay to stop dust getting in the paint, and the use of clear that concerns me. However it's all planned with help and advice from the body shop, including a trip over to see them for some tips and pointers.
Times been limited though. I've almost finished the prep for paint now. Got all materials, and stuff to make a temporary "booth" around the front of the car with filtered heating. Will it be before Christmas now, maybe, maybe not What's for sure it's holding the project up and I've had to remove the few parts I'd fitted.
Not totally idle. Heater box and controls refurbished and a modification to the matrix made.
IMG_1404.JPG
IMG_1405.JPG
IMG_1406.JPG
IMG_1409.JPG
All looking a bit sad, so a full strip is needed.
IMG_1413.JPG
IMG_1415.JPG
The pivot for the leavers and the posts for the control wires have riveted ends.
My solution, drill through and tap them M3 for the wire posts and M5 or 6 for the pivot (can't remember right now), and use flange head Allen screws through the full length filing the tips smooth and a dab of black paint. works a treat
Tapped in position, and then the rivet flange removed last to release the pivot and posts as they are small and fiddley
IMG_1414.JPG
Air flaps sponge coating completely knackered and filthy
IMG_1419.JPG
IMG_1434.JPG
Cleaned and painted with a new printed front control label.
IMG_1506.JPG
Close up of my mod to the control wire posts
IMG_1507.JPG
IMG_1509.JPG
Heater matrix modification.
With the Zetec install, it's common to cut down the heater matrix inlet and outlet pipes so they are more or less flush with the bulkhead due to limited space between the engine and bulkhead. Securing with a jubilee clip inside the bulkhead rather than outside. That seems to be the way most people do it.
I've come up with this. Reduce the inlet/outlet pipe diameter to 10mm and use a 90* 10mm push on to 15mm fitting.
Having pressure tested the matrix and finding it was letting by around the inlet pipe joint, I decided it was worth a go to do my mod. Here goes...
First unsoldered the pipe support bracket
IMG_1526.JPG
Unsolder the pipe joint. The pipe is crimped in to the matrix so it wont simply pull out. Pipe cut down with a Dremel, the wire hook was put through the ring so it couldn't fall in.
IMG_1527.JPG
The ring was crushed in gently so as not to damage the port, and then pulled through the port
IMG_1528.JPG
Fittings for the pipe mod. 15mm pipe, 15-10mm female/female reducer and 10mm pipe The F/F reducer is important as it keeps the 15mm section as short as possible This it also cut down both on the 15 & 10 ends.
IMG_1556.JPG
IMG_1557.JPG
IMG_1561.JPG
Yes they are at an angle, just like the originals, because they have to go through the shroud
Push on elbows fitted. These are radiator fittings. The silicon hose will fit to the 15mm section.
IMG_1560.JPG
Pressure testing. 1.5bar is sufficient, but to really stress test I gave it a short time at 2 bar. All good
IMG_1559.JPG
Heater box put in the dish washer for a good clean Approved by the Mrs.
Air control plates cleaned, painted and recovered in 1.5mm neoprene foam.
Heater matrix cleaned and painted, air veins straightened using a scalpel to maximise airflow through the core, and the outside coated in the 1.5mm neoprene foam for insulation so as much heat is retained in the core so the air passing through gets maximum heat transfer. (Just trying to improve on the original as best I can)
Motor, cleaned, lubricated, the surface corrosion on its case treated and painted, and tested.
This is a later type heater so it has the 2.5Ohm speed control resistor incorporated. That's been cleaned and tested.
All the plastic pivots lubricated with silicon grease, and control wires lubricated with light oil.
IMG_1625.JPG
IMG_1626.JPG
IMG_1643.JPG
Done. This was quite a big job. A trial fit seems to show the modification should work well, and the controls are very smooth.
IMG_1651.JPG
Front panel painted black as it was very visible through the grill now that's been opened up, and seeing the centre support in white wasn't good
Was a bugger of a job to mask up and get soft edges, but it's done
IMG_1677.JPG
Floor bungs sorted out, cleaned, painted and ready for fitting.
IMG_1681.JPG
All original except the large round ones. They are from a guy on ebay. They're cheaper than other suppliers, very close to original profile and made from galvanised steal. he also does small round ones if you don't have, or don't want to use the rubber bungs.
These will be fitted with a smear of PU seam sealer and the metal bungs will get a coat of "raptor" once fitted to blend into the underside and add protection.
Now I really need to get my arse in gear and sort the engine bay paint.
You will smile when you finish this one as you haven’t left a screw unturned :-)
Heater box is looking smart and smiling at being through a cycle in the dish washer
Such a cool project. This is coming along nicely.
Engine bay repainted at last.
These pics go back probably to November, It's been a bit of a slog for what may seam straight forward enough.
First off as I had to re do the whole engine bay using Base and clear I decided I could refine it more, such as using seam sealer around the strut top plates so it looks smoother and the gap around the plates and the wing top doesn't become a dirt trap. I spotted this done in some pictures of a car whilst looking for something else. There were some little areas of seam sealer I smoothed out and some surface defects that just required a very thin skim of fine filler.
IMG_1872.JPG
IMG_1873.JPG
2k primer and initial masking up
IMG_1911.JPG
IMG_1912.JPG
Temporary paint booth.
Had a big clean up in the garage first as well as having to move stuff about like the compressor. Jacked the front end up to give room to get in underneath. This proved to be essential.
Body masked, all holes covered, and even with this I separately masked the dash, parcel shelf and the black area on the front panel, just in case.
Brand new tarpaulin on the ground.
Plastic sheeting "tent" using the up and over door frame. This is all taped to the floor tarp so its fully sealed. I also wrapped the axel stands in plastic
Under the car is a trunking made from a box which passed through the plastic sheeting, with a filter at the back (outside the tent) and a fan heater in it for warm dust free air. I managed to maintain a good 20*c with this, just warm enough.
Over the top, 2x LED strip lights with an extractor fan using ally ducting dropping down outside the tent. Idea being the warm air rising would help take the overspray and fumes up to the extract. That worked better than expected with a positive pressure in the tent and virtually no dust landing in the paint. But there were some issues, the worst one being very fine black hair like particles getting in the clear. There was nothing in the base coat. Turned out to be carbonised clear burning off the heater element. Once I realised the fix was to shut the heater down whilst actually painting.
IMG_1967.JPG
IMG_1972.JPG
Brown masking paper to give a last minute gun test before going on to the car.
IMG_1973.JPG
Base coat ford diamond white
IMG_2116.JPG
IMG_2117.JPG
IMG_1982.JPG
This went well, but not without a couple of problems
IMG_1981.JPG
School boy error, but easily sorted.
The plan was to do the base coat and the clear in one session, as I'd been directed, but I ran out of time and that run needed to dry before removing it.
A week later I'm ready to have a crack at the clear coat.
Whole surface area flatted again, and a coat of base laid on to give a good bond for the clear.
This turned into a long day, packing up at 02:00 after a fair bit of frustration. The heater packed up, and the temperature almost immediately dropped to 15*C. Got that sorted, after removing it from it's sealed enclosure, stripping, cleaning and then refitting, that delay lead to a couple of other issues. Then the tiny black "hairs" mentioned above, various other delays, and another school boy error.
IMG_2118.JPG
IMG_2119.JPG
IMG_2120.JPG
IMG_2121.JPG
It looks ok here but it wasn't. I got a couple of runs on the vertical surfaces of the inner wings and some of those little black hairs were visible. However, some good lessons learned
Another weeks gone by, and the various blemishes are removed, but in doing so in a couple of areas I went through the clear. I had a go at a local touch up and blend but it wasn't working (which I expected)
So....................... flatted it all down again and 2 coats of clear.
This time with lessons learned
IMG_2149.JPG
IMG_2151.JPG
IMG_2150.JPG
This finish is far better overall than the last. There's a few surface "nibs", but I've been round today and flatted them out, and tomorrow I'll finish with cutting and polishing compound.
Then I can dismantle the booth and get the garage back in order to start fitting out.
The engine bay has turned out really well. A lot of work, but it’s paid off. The spray booth (tent) is very clever. You say you used 2K primer. Did you use 2K for the base and clear too?
Engine bay looks really nice, well done.
Thanks Beers, it’s 2k primer, 1k base then the 2k clear. I’ve never used this system before but done well it does give good results. The Clear has a UV filter so it protects the paint to a certain extent from sun fade, not really an issue on white but it’s what the paint shop said to use. And of course it allows for flatting and polishing to a fantastic deep shine without risk to the colour.
Inside the car is 2k colour, this gives a good finish but being inside most of its covered so no need for the expense of the clear (£100+ for 5 litres). I’ve done 1.5lt just in the bay.
Engine bay complete
Flatted and polished
IMG_2173.JPG
IMG_2174.JPG
Masking removed, and I've redone the "Raptor" so the join lines are tidy.
IMG_2181.JPG
IMG_2182.JPG
I would be chuffed with that, good job and liked the booth and Morpheus law with the heater. What next. :/))))
Thanks Donnie,
I’ve done a bit of flatting and polishing in the cabin ( rear side window frames, rear tubs and boot area) even though the areas will be covered with trim, but I’ll know.
I’ve been researching sound proofing. That’s being ordered this weekend for fitting ASAP, in the meantime I want to get that fuel return sorted. I got various fittings and washers and I know what I’m doing but put everything aside to get the paint done.
All the masking is off and it’s up on stands, so I should also be refitting the fuel/brake pipes and cracking on with getting it put together
Updates to follow ��
Now comes the good part, putting the bits on for the last time, looking back and smiling or walking out of the garage frustrated at the progress but always returning with a smile - keep the posts coming
Not achieved as much as I would have liked. Combination of time, circumstance and some frustrations.
Sound deadening and thermal insulation.
Bit of explanation for those of us that don't know already about this.
I spent some time on researching, I didn't want to add weight without good reason. Initially I thought sound deadening was making the car quiet inside, not really what you want from a Mk1 or 2 Escort. However what I found was the sound deadening (rather than sound proofing) is to reduce background noise from panel vibration. Tap the roof panel and it rings, this is the noise that becomes wearing on long drives, tap a deadened panel and its a flat thud.
So you can enjoy the engine/exhaust without the effect of sitting in a drum. Ford did make an attempt with the small pads in doors and on the floor, and some cars had a boot floor pad.
I've gone with, Kilmat and Noico 80mil. The only real difference is the Noico has no branding, it's also available in silver of black (if you need to look original) The reason I got both was there were comments that the Noico left a slight smell after fitting that would fade, I was a bit concerned about that but didn't want branding in areas it would be seen (in the boot spare wheel well). However, I've not detected any smell at all from the Noico, even on opening the box. So the Kilmat is going anywhere its covered.
I've not coated the whole interior either, as careful placement gives great results.
Initially I've done the boot and roof so I could get on with fitting out, later I'll be doing doors, floor, bulkhead.
IMG_2347.JPG
Noico 80Mil behind the fuel tank.
Spare wheel well. After fitting the Noico (edged with foil tape) I've masked and sprayed raptor in the bottom to give protection from the wheel (Difficult to see in this pic)
IMG_2557.JPG
Kilmat in the rear quarters, again edges finished with foil tape.
IMG_2348.JPG
Parcel shelf. Great example here of how placement makes such a difference. The initial pads I put in the 7 pressed recesses didn't make that much difference, but when I added the strips the panel went flat, no ringing at all when tapped. I've also done the Boot floor.
IMG_2358.JPG
The foil tape I have is industrial duct tape, I acquired sometime in my past, it's not the stuff used for home insulation or flooring from places like Wicks, B&Q.
Roof panel sound deadening and thermal insulation
IMG_2357.JPG
Thermal insulation, this is a 6mm high density foam from Dodo mat, replacing the fibre matting Ford used.
The combination should help keep heat in in the cold and reduce heating from the sun in summer.
IMG_2361.JPG
I've made up and fitted a new loom for the interior light that I fitted first.
Then to help improve the interior light there's silver foil tape above it dropping down to the bracket to reflect light back to the lens and stop it leaking into the head liner. The foil tape dropping down to the bracket is reinforced with black cloth tape
IMG_E2362.JPG
More of this to be done later
Fuel tank return.
I decided to revisit this to use AN fittings rather than a push on and jubilee clip. Getting this done was a pain in the arse, and I bought a selection of fittings to get it the way I wanted
Thanks Donnie for helping out with the donner sender unit.
Here's the problem, I had to cut into the locking ring, obviously its very easy to mess the sender up doing this.
IMG_1150.JPG
IMG_1151.JPG
My solution
IMG_2258.JPG
Anyone that has their sender out, I'd recommend opening it and giving the contact spring a careful clean. It's very easy, just a couple of tabs to pull open to get access. A fibre pen used to clean the contact face and then re tension the contact, bend it apart so it presses a little more on the resistance wire and jobs done. I had a fair but erratic resistance reading before, and after cleaning the reading is totally smooth both up and down. Just take care around the resistance wire, its easily damaged.
IMG_2259.JPG
IMG_2260.JPG
IMG_2261.JPG
Bulkhead fittings to bring the return from under the boot floor into the fuel tank well. I made the washers both ally and the rubber to give a good hopefully water tight fixing
IMG_2569.JPG
Also reference Donnie's restoration thread for doing the same thing. I really just copied him.
Engine bay exhaust heat protection
IMG_2561.JPG
Templates
IMG_2564.JPG
Replacement fuel tank filter
Original was manky and had a small split. How nessacery this is I don't know, I've a pump pre filter and will have an injector pre filter.
I used brass filter mesh double wrapped and soldered Then the smallest amount of JB weld epoxy to hold the end caps on. JB is listed as fuel proof, but I think other epoxy adhesives would do.
IMG_2607.JPG
IMG_2606.JPG
IMG_2608.JPG
IMG_2609.JPG
Again check Donnie's thread for another way of dealing with this.
More time spent on the nose cone. A lot of time spent on the inside to smooth it out, and reduce the places for dirt to gather, mostly it will never be seen, but I know how it is.
IMG_E2555.JPG
And the light bezels. Never where a great fit, so cut and reset, shaped, now fit perfectly.
IMG_2366.JPG
IMG_2385.JPG
IMG_2389.JPG
Door window frame adjusted
Gap at the top....
IMG_2412.JPG
Cut, welded, dressed
IMG_2413.JPG
Better
IMG_2414.JPG
Been on the 2k black
IMG_2526.JPG
Bezzels, door window frame, front grill mesh, under bumper grills and spoiler grills
Spoiler grilles finished with white tinted raptor
IMG_2556.JPG
Every job seems to get held up by details.
The supaflex saddles needed shaping to fit into the blocks. Spring saddles are powder coated
IMG_2611.JPG
I got these spacers for the top of the lowering blocks so they are perfectly fitted into the holes in the saddle under the axel.
IMG_2652.JPG
IMG_2653.JPG
Spacer in the axel saddle
IMG_2655.JPG
Spacers needed some shaping to fit snug to the axel hence the alignment marks Blocks have been cleaned and painted. The tape is PTFE panel tape. I've used it in various places to remove wear that could lead to corrosion.
IMG_2656.JPG
And after a lot of pissing about that I've not mentioned here, this is where I'm at with the back end. Fuel tank finally fitted and plumbed in, and rear running gear going on.
IMG_2678.JPG
IMG_2679.JPG
Brake back plates are on so next job is fit the brake cylinders and then run in the axel brake lines, fit the shocks and Panhard rod.
Brake lines refitted at the front to.
I think then I need to turn some attention to the engine, despite all the other stuff that needs doing.
Looking good, can smell the petrol already :-))))))))
The car is looking fantastic Zaksak
Almost done on the sound deadening. This lot has taken the equivalent of a good 3 solid days, mainly making all the cuts for the bulkhead
IMG_2877.JPG
IMG_2878.JPG
IMG_2879.JPG
Just a bit of thermal mat to put in on a couple of places around the bulk head
More or less finished the back end
IMG_2880.JPG
IMG_2881.JPG
Just got to make a decision on what to do with the diff. I want an ATB, so send it some where to have it fitted or do it myself, or for now just put in the diff as is.
I'm leaning toward the ATB now and fitting myself, its fiddley I know but I know if I do it I'll make it 100%, but that will use up a fair bit of time. I've got the proper half shaft bearings not the cheap ones with the rubber O ring, so don't really want o be pulling half shafts out a few months after it's on the road.
As a note on the cheaper bearings, I showed them to a specialist bearing supplier, and he said they weren't as cheap and nasty as some people say on various forums, and they would be more than adequate for a fast road car with the odd track day. Just in case someone on a tight budget is looking in.
Nice job menOriginally Posted by Zakspak
You have pedalbox bais? In your escort?
Thanks Tom.
Yes I will have a bias box. You posted some questions about this recently that I replied to with the “page number “ of this thread where I was setting up my box and I posted some pictures from my build here, of my reservoir pots on your question as reference
She is taking shape nicely, when’s the power plant going into the bay ;-))))
Been waching this build, very impresive.
Keep going and keep up the high standards you have set yourself, so easy to to start rushing things at this stage.
Cant wait to see the finished result.
Keep up the good work.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks