All depends on moisture and temp really, google it, plenty of images for lots of applications where galvanic corrosion is an issue, ive seen several wings etc corroded around the area where stainless bumper fixings have been used, its fairly common. Also depends on what grease you use and how conductive it is.
She is at a standstill for the next month and then hopefully if I get back early September I will have her up an running, will then have to tidy up all the wee bit and pieces in readiness for next summer
Nice one Donnie, looking forward to be in that position with my car. Back to work myself this week. I’ve realised from this update I’ve done a lot more than I realised, so lock down hasn’t all been bad for me anyway.Originally Posted by donnie
Still got some updating to do, I’ll try to get that done this week. Have a good trip ��
Re the discussion above, about dissimilar metal corrosion. I guess it’s started over my use of stainless steel rivnuts and screws in the scuttle panel.
Well it’s certainly not just a theory. The MOD and Royal Navy has invested a fair amount of taxpayers cash into dealing with it on our submarine fleet, which use sacrificial blocks attached to the boats hull.
Bringing the issue back to earth or shore because if me and the car ever ends up in the Atlantic, I’m probably not going to worry too much about corrosion.
Having owned and restored a series 3 Landrover, I have to say I didn’t have a problem of dissimilar metal corrosion, and mine was outside and some times not used for weeks. Landrovers from the series 1 to the 90/110 (Defenders) all had probably the worst match of material, with aluminium panels riveted, screwed or bolted to steel frames. The point here is that I haven’t experienced rapid corrosion caused by dissimilar materials. That’s not to say Landrover’s don’t have problems, take a look at the back end of any of these types, that is in normal use and it’s common to see corrosion around the bracket where the rear bed bolts to the chassis, although look round an enthusiasts ex military landy and it’s less likely.
Using steel bolts will corrode unless they are protected, any damage to the protection and rust will set in, we live in a high salt content atmosphere in the UK. So the stainless gives extra protection. Baring in mind stainless steel isn’t really stainless, it’s just more corrosion resistant. The correct use of stainless steel fasteners is also as mentioned very important. Having a higher carbon content, stainless steel is more brittle, so not really suitable for say front leaf spring bolts, radius arm bolts etc where shock shear loads could cause failure. The scuttle isn’t really a high stress or structural panel.
I tend to take a pragmatic approach. This car is not going to be sat outside in all weathers, if I was building a hardcore rally car, the build would be different/ suitable for that purpose.
I use good quality fixings regardless of the material. Final assembly will involve using an anti seize grease, such as graphite or copper grease all round. As has been suggested, I painted the rivnuts with zinc primer and the holes they went through before fitting, I do this with any rivnut regardless of material.
To prevent any fastener regardless of material coming loose an appropriate locking system is used, spring or tab washers, split pins, locking wire, nylock or aero lock nuts, or a chemical lock such as one of the loctite range.
The point of this reply is that people look in for advice and information and I think it’s very important to share good information. All the points above are valid, but just need to be taken in context.
So thanks for looking in and taking time to comment. Hopefully someone will pick up some useful tip from us and we play a small part in them building the best car they can
Its not the stainless bolt that would corrode though, its the mild steel panel - being the less noble metal, the mild steel will be the anode. Thats why you see large areas of corrossion on quarter panels and wings where guys have used stainless steel bumper fixings onto mild steel.
@Erikmex - in a straw poll of how serious / worrying this is, you seem to be in a minority of One. We acknowledge that it happens (to a greater or lesser degree) but not enough to get bothered about it when steel on steel or unprotected steel is of greater concern.
Wasnt aware it was a poll, tbh from reading back, im not sure theres actually a proper understading of how/what galvanic corrossion is, i think almsot everyome who builds cars has seen the isolated spots of rust around where disimilar metals have been used, its very very common, especially on older cars, re. the unprotected steel - the reason i brought it up in this case is because when using rivnuts - steel type over rubber, you generally crack the paint, resulting in steel on steel, for non load fixings, the rubber type are far better as they insulate the two materials. Given the quality of the build, i thought it best to highlight my experience on the issue.
You two do seem to love an argument between yourselves don't you, just an observation from outside the box.
Or is it just a healthy agreement to disagree.
Because I've got to be honest here, I know this issue exists but I can't say I understand it in the slightest.
Last edited by rallyrob; 12-08-2020 at 15:33.
Haha, it seems i get challenged alot on quite simple things, engineers like challenges though!! Id like to see some challengers build threads hehe!
I'm not a Engineer much to my own dissapointment, so there's lots of things I just can't seem to get my head round however much I try.
But that doesn't stop me from having a massive interest in it all.
Absolutely, and dont be dissapointed, its a but shit sometimes, although ive moved away a little from the technical engieering side slightly for work, do even more of a dull job these days, the beauty now is that so much info is a your fingertips, so much knowledge sharing available, if you can sift through the junk online.
Too true, there is more junk than proper facts available sometimes making it very tedious to sort through.
catching up on updates
Decided the best option for the washer bottle was under the inner wing. Would have liked to put it under the LH wing, but that proved a bit too involved due to the tank fixing lugs. I want to be able to easily get the tank on and off. I'm trying to think ahead on assembly and future repair with everything.
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Little extra bracket welded on for the tanks single fixing lug
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Oil catch tank will go on the in side of the wing
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To stiffen the ends of the front panel I've made up and tacked on these strengthener sections
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Back to the side skirts. Lot of head scratching over how I was going to do this. Eventually during one of my regular looks for a Mk1 Capri, I noticed an RS3100 super saloon car that had been stripped down, with the side skirts removed the brackets were visible, so I've used them as inspiration.
Lower Fixings
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Upper brackets
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Tacked on
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Final fitting and adjustment of the skirts. I've extended them back to the arch where there will be a single fixing through the wheel arch flange, and another at the front into the bottom of the wing.
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Also filled and formed the front and rear sections where they meet the body
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Final fitting of the lower front fairing
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Opened up the front panel for the ducts
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Last edited by Zakspak; 23-10-2020 at 21:47.
Had to revisit the battery tray, as I just wasn't happy with what I'd done. I really wanted it more central over the axle and as clear of the boot floor as possible.
So I got a Mk1 boot fitting tray and set about thinking up how to fit it. It's got to be removable and allow for a carpet.
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You can see where I've removed the previous brackets
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The front edge is fitted with studs welded from under the floor and a right angle section welded to the tray.
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I've added a couple of brackets to the tray, these are for a safety strap
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The reason I cut the triangles rather than circles in the rear bracket for lightening is it allows access with a socket and ratchet for the rear studs.
Had to make a proper repair to the corner of the boot floor. It was bit thin, I tried filling the pin holes but it just wasn't working so ........
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Studs welded under the floor for the battery tray. I made up some load spreading discs and welded the bolts to them, and then the discs to the floor.
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Bear metaled the boot floor
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and primed
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Much happier with this.
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Looking good and glad you are still at it as you put some effort into it and it’s looking better with every update
Who rescinded you’re spoiler as it looks great
Thanks Donnie,
It’s coming on slowly, and these updates are lagging behind by weeks, I’m trying to do a bit each evening to catch up.
The spoiler and dash pad were done by a detailing guy not far from me. He’s definitely done a good job, he’s got it exactly right despite being to young to have ever seen a new Mk2 Escort spoiler
It’s Gary, Pro Detailing UK. He’s near Biggleswade, Bedfordshire.
First engine start for you when you’re back ??
Good to see the younger generation still interested and even better passionate about what they do
Updates are not as easy as they used to be and I think that’s why a lot have stopped posting but still good to keep the sites alive as more and more mk2s than ever are appearing
That’s my plan, back home next weekend so a few days of relaxing followed by the garage. Fingers crossed I will sort the issue with the harness this time and get her fired up ��
It's a shame people don't post as much here, Fb is all well and good for instant posting but as a source of searchable information it's fairly useless.
Fingers crossed for your 1st engine start. Maybe you can post a vid here or a link to a vid else where on the net
Door hinge repositioning.
This was how the LH door was sitting (previous post). Top front corner right in the frame up against the flange and bottom rear corner stuck out. I used the original doors to line the sill up, and this was the first fitting of the replacement LH door.
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The sill and the door where checked to be straight. Putting a 3mm shim between the hinge and door post sorted the problem, and I could see the top door hinge was set slightly back on the frame toward the door skin. So repositioning the door hinge seemed the way to fix this. Easily said, but getting the hinge off without damaging the frame needed some thought. I decided to give the dremmel a go with a metal slicing blade, and take my time. It's a couple of big welds to cut through, but surprisingly the dremmel coped well. I think it took 2 1/2 discs and about an hour. Cutting in at an angle with light presure.
I pre marked where the hinge was and the new position, 3mm inboard. I also centre punched the hinge and frame with alignment marks. I took the marker lines as far from the hinge as possible so I could remark from these datums if the lines around the hinge got removed whist grinding.
I used a small fine chisel to make the final split, but only when I thought I had cut through the weld, and then I only used one hammer strike, as if it didn't separate I didn't want to bend the frame from twatting in with a hammer and chisel
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Cleaned and dressed
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A couple of tacks and checked fitting before final welds
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Dot of weld to fill the punch marks and dressed
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Done and painted
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Door now fits nicely all round
Made up these framed grills for the bottom ducts, that fit inside the bottom of the front valance. They will be painted black and fixed at the top and bottom by M4 screws. At the bottom the screws will pass through the bottom flange of the duct, valance and the grill, providing a lower fixing point for the nose cone.
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Opened up the under bumper air scoop, and made up mesh grills to protect that expensive Ally rad.
Like I did with the dash top speaker grill, I've stepped the edges of the grills so they sit flush with the body surface
They will be held in place with a thin seam of seam sealer after the nose cone is preped and ready for paint.
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Good job with the door hinge, these jobs take a lot of time but worth it when done. Just going through the thread again and like the way you have done the seats, impressive
thanks donnie, wish I could take credit for the seats, but all I did was find someone with a good reputation and choose a material, than hope they could turn my thoughts into reality, which they did
still catching up.
Need to work on the brake and fuel systems and plumbing.
Got the bias pedal box out. for anyone new to these they need to be set up, they aren't really plug and play.
There' s good information on here and else where on the net. I down loaded a manual for reference along with info on this site. I won't bother with too much detail here.
First thing was mark up the front and back master cylinder (MC) and swap them around so the front is on the RH side as this makes the under bonnet piping more sensible.
I fully stripped the pedal box and started fresh with the set up and cleaned and lubricated so it's all fresh.
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I made up the shims that go between the clevis's and the pivot sleeve as there weren't any. They are there to help keep dust out of the spherical bearing inside the pivot sleeve. It's all set up neutral.
Then I've planned out the pipe work from the reservoirs through the MC's and to the bulk head.
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Box of fittings and PTFE pipe.
The PTFE pipes are easy enough to make up.
New bulkhead plate made up which covers the original servo opening (convenient )
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New reservoir plate to, as the 1st one was a bit thin and flexed a bit
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Making up and test fitting. I initially got 90* bulkhead fittings but had to change them for 45* as the 90's didn't crear the inside edge so I couldn't fit the pipes.
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Now I know it's not really necessary to do the reservoir - MC with the 200 series PTFE pipe as it's not high pressure, but there's a couple of bends on the route and this pipe is a little less likely to kink or be crushed, and being a bit tucked away these fittings I hope will be a bit more positive and more leak proof.
Nice work and the box looks like the repro one available from RD with Wilwood masters?
Be careful just swapping masters around to suit piping! The two masters are biased left and right with reference to centreline of the pedal. If I remember the front should be on the side closer to the pedal with rears to the side farther from the pedal - its all about leverage ratio's and pressures applied. It's a bloody minefield and i'm sure mine is wrong but presently i'm sick of pissing brake fluid everywhere to change it again !
Hi Katana, It’s a modified Mk2 Escort box with wilwood MCs, not sure where from, maybe RD, I got it second hand a few years back. I appreciate the input. It’s more than just swapping the MCs over as you say. It wasn’t working at all when I started looking at it. It’s a fair amount of cocking about, which is why I totally stripped and rebuilt it. Think maybe the previous owner couldn’t sort it out, it doesn’t look like it’s ever been in a car. When I’d rebuilt it having changed the shimming on the pedal pivot to start with, I then found that wasn’t right and had to redo it all with the original shimming. It still needs some adjustments as the pedal position is different with the brake light switch fitted. I also want to fit locking nuts to the MC pistons so there’s no way they can change within the clevis’s. But the bias is correct or at least seems to be when bench tested.
The manual I down loaded was really useful, and I’d recommend anyone working on a bias pedal box for the first time follows a formal set of instructions.
Fuel tank clean and refresh.
I initially cleaned the bottom flange of the tank a couple of years ago at the start of the project, but on inspection it needed more work, opening up the flange and removing the corrosion, then PAR15 treatment and a coat of zinc primer.
There was still fuel in the tank from 1993, which although leaving a residue in the tank as it's evaporated off over the years, it's helped keep the corrosion out of the inside of the tank.
The inside of the tank was spayed with oven cleaner, and left over night, and then jet washed out. Even after this there's still staining and old fuel residue spots, but I'm happy that there's nothing that will cause a problem.
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Cleaned and bare metaled
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Zinc primer
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Gloss black top coat.
I masked up the seal surface for the sender, the outlet union and the filler neck.
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Breather pipe cleaned up. This has been painted to
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Outlet union.
The gauze fuel filter has been soaking in a jar of fresh petrol for a few weeks now which is slowly melting off the thin layer of gum that had formed on it, and the tank has fresh diesel in it and gets rotated regularly. This is to melt off any gum from the quiet corners, and also being diesel it will leave a protective coating inside the tank when it's emptied out keeping it clean until needed.
Front spoiler ducts and grills.
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This little lot back from cleaning and powder coating.
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So plenty to be getting on with
Finally got the wheel outer rims back, and very happy.
Had to spend some time cleaning them down with white spirit to remove remnants of the polishing wax from the surfaces and importantly the bolt holes. Then wiped over with a very thin layer of 3 in 1 and wrapped in cling film to stop and surface fading. I've had a couple of the cone spreader washers turned, just got to collect those then I'm ready to rebuild the wheels.
When they are done they're going to get a ceramic coating.
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Will come back to the wheels when I put them back together
Just looking back I've not put up any pics of the wheel hubs and rear dishes
Rear dishes are powder coated satin black and the hubs re-done blue
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However, the guy who did the chassis parts has got a blue that I may like more, it seems like a horrible waste of money to have the hubs stripped and re coated but I'm considering it.
Preparing interior trim.
Re coloured the C pillars and parcel shelf.
Parcel shelf needed a little repair to one of the rear tabs, and a couple of areas around the edges. For that i used an external construction PVA.
The paint is a colour matched plastic paint. I'm really pleased with the finish and shade.
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Glove box referb....
I've stripped this down, cleaned it, filled some holes that I'd drilled in the side back in the day, dealt with surface rust on the metal bracket and given it a light coat of the black to freshen it up.
There's a few close ups of the hinges as these would be very easily broken if you're not careful and thinking of doing this.
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Stripped down.
The metal bracket is rivetted on to the plastic case.
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Repaired holes
Hinge arrangement. This is the order of refitting. To remove them, I slipped a blade under the outer tabs lifting them out of the slots, then with long nose pliers, slowly and gently twisted the hinge by the inside tabs 90*. Job done
Refitting you press the tabs firmly into the slots and twist the hinge until it clicks.
If you break them, I think you're a bit buggered as a repair would be tricky.
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Removal and refitting has to be done with the metal bracket removed from the box by drilling out the rivets.
Rivets are 3mm x 6 or 8mm. I used 6mm, but a couple could have been better with the 8s as the metal bracket is double thickness.
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Ready for reassembly
Done
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Been working on the fuel and brake plumbing. It's taken a lot of time to figure out how I'm going to do this and I'm still in the planning stage. Need to work out the best routing, clips, fittings and pump/filter location.
More to follow, soon I hope.
Outstanding work, thanks for posting
Little update. Nothing much to see unfortunately A lack of garage time, and the time I've had has been fettling the nose cone and fitting the light boxes, along with a fair amount of looking and thinking about fuel pump positions, fuel and break line runs.
Put the shell back up on the roll over jig.
Got a plan now and I've started on the break lines. I got Sierra pipe clips. Initially I was going with the usual fitting along the chassis rails. However I've decided to go along the underside of the floor, just like on the Sierra etc. It makes for a cleaner run I think.
I've used tape (red break, yellow fuel) to plan and visualise the pipe run and so workout clip position.
I've made up brackets the same as on the Sierra that will be welded to the floor, and the clips screwed to them.
Brackets need finishing off. I'll put more pics up when that's done.
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