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Thread: steering geometry

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    Mechanic davemk1's Avatar

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    steering geometry

    Hi all.
    Sorry this is a bit long winded.
    I've put a rmd 2.4 h/d rack in my car with eccentric top mounts and adj tca's.
    Set up as wide as they can go with wheels parallel and zero camber the rack ends only go in the tre's about 8 turns now which I don't feel is enough. I bought the shortest rack extenders which are now making the wheels toe out by a long way even on the shortest adjustment.
    I suppose I could run a bit more thread up the steering arm and cut a bit off the end.
    I heard somewhere that there are longer track rod ends for sale which I've now found but I was digging around the technical section and came across an old thread about a rack being too long.
    It turns out that this guy had bought the same rack and he discovered that the steering arm pivot points are wider apart than the inner tca pivot points.
    I measured my std rack pivots and as near as damn it they match my tca centres.
    Can anybody tell me what problems (if any) I will have if I use this rmd rack?
    This guy ended up buying a kiley Clinton rack which he
    says has the pivots the same as the tca's.
    Is it worth the extra money for this one and move on the rmd version? (The car won't be used for anything competitive)
    Also what's the benefits/pitfalls of going for the tapered pins and rose joints instead of tre's?
    Thanks.

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    Re: steering geometry

    8 turns should be enough, thats probably further in than the diameter of the thread, but if you want more camber you will have to change something, rack extenders and shortening teh rack a bit may be the answer.

    i dont see any advantage in fitting rose joints over TRE for the road, only disadvantages, subjected to all the dirt and rubbish they will see with road use they will probably wear out very fast, although thinking about it i dont understand why so many fit so many competition car suspension bits for road use, all it does is bugger up the ride, but i guess it looks good!

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    Re: steering geometry

    Make you own extenders from a long nut and a piece of rod-end.
    You can make it the length you need.

    Last edited by Miniliteman; 18-07-2017 at 19:29.

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    Bodger

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    Re: steering geometry

    Quote Originally Posted by Miniliteman View Post
    Make you own extenders from a long nut and a piece of rod-end.
    You can make it the length you need.

    What's going on in that pic? 2 sway bars if yes how is the second bar mounted to the chassis?

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    Re: steering geometry

    The bottom one is a tension strut. On top is a 16mm tarmac spec antirollbar.

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    Re: steering geometry

    Quote Originally Posted by Miniliteman View Post
    Make you own extenders from a long nut and a piece of rod-end.
    Is that tre extender fixed to the original tre, welded to it? Or is it just the fact that it's sandwiched between
    between the tre and the lock nut thats holding the whole lot together...?

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    Re: steering geometry

    The steering arm thread is halfway in the extender (hex part).
    There is a piece of rod-end in the other half (rounded) of the extender and inside the TRE.
    No welding just Loctite.

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    Re: steering geometry

    Ok... So what's size is the steering arm thread m14, or m16. Am I right in thinking you really need at least the diameter of the rod inside the thread so Im assuming you must have approx 14-16mm inside the extender(hex part)?

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    Re: steering geometry

    It's M14 and yes the thread of the steering arm is halfway in the extender (so for the hex part of it); that's approx. 19 mm.
    The idea is the same as these
    http://www.burtonpower.com/steering-...0mm-tre50.html
    just with alot less extension of the track-width.

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