I make good coffee................
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
hmm, unfortunately you will have to do better than that, perhaps the most improtant gizmo in my life, is only 2 metres from the garage
Can't imagine life without it, one button push and a nice cup of ground coffee, what is even better is the missus is ex-cabin crew so is hard wired to serve coffee
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you jammie git ...........coffee machine is great too!!!!!!!!
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
Re-reading this thread for at least the 6th time!!! What did you use to cut out the old trans tunnel? All I have is a jigsaw, hacksaw and a whole lotta love (the latter is maybe to help get my wife to cut it out for me )
Am I likely to need to buy a nibbler or some other tool? I also have to cut off the arches to fit bubbles.........
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
I am in the process of doing this very repair myself. I have welded the plate over the end of the chassis rail. Did you spot weld the rear panel repair plate onto the chassis end plate or did you just weld the rear panel repair around its edges? I cannot remember if the rear panel is spotted in this place or not. Sorry to test your memory mate!
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
Looking good mate keep it up
I have used a plasma cutter (with limited sucess) a air hacksaw, again not great, but the two best tools are an angle grinder with 1mm cutting discs or if the cut is simple, a nibbler on a cordelss drill. Mine is like this one
Use a step drill to drill a hole big enough for the nibbler and as long as it is single thickness steel up to 1mm it cuts cleanly and quickly. If you have a huge compressor the air one would be better, but to be honest this works really well on my 18v cordless.
Yes I spot welded the panel to the end plates
Last edited by dobuy; 25-02-2010 at 07:43.
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PS wicked work too
The tubes are 65mm long (chassis rail is 67mm, so 1mm each side for weld)
Can't measure the OD but ID looks to be about 11.5mm
Bolts will be 7/16th I think and about 80-90mm long
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Can't imagine life without it, one button push and a nice cup of ground coffee, what is even better is the missus is ex-cabin crew so is hard wired to serve coffee
So's mine; but it's mostly tea round here...
nice work by the way
Well on my last visit to the UK I picked up some nice shiny bits
After much discussion with Peter at Raceline and my mate Mick, I decided to get a Ultimate Performance CNC flowed head.
Inlet Ports
Exhaust Ports
You can see that the head has a few rough bits on some of the webs, as the CNC job focus's on shape rather than the shiny finish, you can get it hand finished for a bit extra but it only adds about 1% extra flow in CFM terms.
Set of Raceline full race cams, with 300 degree duration. These require quite close tolerance on the buckets so as not to clip the edges, between 5-7 thou I think.
Set of Raceline Direct to Head (DTH) 48mm Throttle Bodies. Yes there is more exotic set upa out there, but these have made more than 300bhp on the Mountune Dyno (on a 2.3) with the same cams and injectors as I have, so should do me nicely.
My injectors arrived from the USA, paid $54 each for these, from here, lot cheaper than the £80 being quoted by 2 of our major 'Escort' Duratec suppliers here. Really good service, although for some reason he only valued them at $40 on the shipping invoice He also supplied me with all the correct connectors, so a good resource.
Finally another bit of Escort sacrilege, I decided to cut into the heater bubble and 'let in' a Rally Design Master Cylinder tray. Quite happy with the result, also means if I ever go LHD, I can swap over sides easily
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Looking great!! Just remember to check inside each of the ports before you assemble the engine, just in case there are some children playing inside them
The hole between the bottom of the MX5 bell-housing and the Raceline Dry sump was annoying me, so knocked up a bit of angle iron to fill the gap, will fill in the angle with GRP and smooth it off, if I get really bored I may get it copied in alloy
Decided to have a go at making a brake bias box, so here is a nice stock MK1 box for servo brakes and cable clutch
First thing to do was cut off the brake light holder and throttle stop, then fabricate the main box out of 2mm steel
Used the measurements in the Ford Rally prep manual to get the spacings for the Master Cylinders
I originally had left the top/clutch side of the box as original, as the pictures on Andy's site showed you could do that. However on my attempt, it was fouling the clutch actuator too much, so I cut the side out and put an angle plate to give clearance
Trial fit of steelwork, I put a captive nut in the top, as this will mean I don't have to fiddle around in the back of the box, likewise I welded in some bolts to act as studs for the Master Cylinders.
On to the pedals, first up the crucial brake pedal, with my patent paralleling tool
Brake pedal finished, clutch pedal still needing a final mod, but waiting for a clevis before I finish it
So here it is, after 2 days of cutting, grinding, measuring and faffing around
This was a lot of fun and a great learning exercise for me, but you really need to have way too much spare time to bother with it. Next time I will get Andy from Arrow Engineering to do a proper one for me as the £75 or so saved is just not worth the effort
After some careful measuring (guessing) I bought a Dunnell Spin on Oil adapter. I don't like the remote filters with all the unnecessary hoses, so was well pleased when this fitted up OK.
There is about 2mm clearance on the bolt, may try to squeeze a bit more out, but this part of the mount should not move, so hopefully will be OK as it is.
Not quite as much luck with the Dunnell water-rail, but I guess only 18mm clearance on the bulkhead was always going to be a problem
So a little hole was required to get the head and water rail to fit
And little holes can sometimes become bigger, as it should be easier to move that mart of the bulkhead back, rather than make a funny shaped box to clear the water-rail.
So a quick nip over to Gareth's tomorrow to bend up a bit of metal and should all be good. Getting to the point where I am going to build up the car to almost running condition, to check everything before going towards painting.
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Nice work there. I got one of the water rails from Roger Carroll in Adelaide. No need for an EGR blanking plate either. It fills the whole thing and clears the bulkhead. Keep up the great work. Always a good thread.
Yeah I was quite keen on Roger's one, but with the exchange rate being what it was it was easier (and cheaper) to get the Dunnell one.
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intresting as its similar build to what i am planning
are you running the injectors in the throttle bodies or head or both?
im guessing you used the later head as the valves dont seem as shrouded as on the ranger head i have
nice build though ill be intrested to see what the finished car goes like
Fookin hell... those ports on that head are hoooge!
The Ranger head is the same as the one I am using, as all Rangers have the better hi-port head. It is the older Mondeo's that are not as good. The difference in the valve shrouding is down to the CNC porting, that cuts a lot of this away, it makes some tuners nervous, but this is the same head spec as used on the Caterham R500 so is well tested.
I am using these (really short) injectors in the Raceline TB's, with blanking plugs in the head, just fitted them up today so will take some pics tomorrow.
Now you know why I love Duratec'sFookin hell... those ports on that head are hoooge
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Put the car on its proper wheels for the first time, the slicks are a bit narrow for the rims as they are only 185's, but will do for set up purposes. I have the car at a ride height of about 130mm on the chassis rail at the rear, 120mm at the front and about 110 on the WCXM, does that sound about right, as a starting place for a circuit car?
I think the axle needs to come forward about an inch as well to centre it in the arches, or do I keep the wheelbase
Front seems fine with full lock available, just as well the slicks are low profile
Plan to use at least 200x15 slicks, as lots available here from the Radicals etc, but the rear has room for about 225 section or so
Raceline 48mm DTH ITB's, not sure whether to run the throttle cable as shown, with nice smooth radius, or I could run it behind the engine, pulling towards the rear, I guess it will be trial and error
Siemens Dekka IV injectors as supplied by BM Motorsports, very good service, great prices
Bit of a problem with my Dunnell Fuel Rail, got the bulkhead moved back OK, looks very nice....
But unfortunately does not match up with my SBD manifold
I might be able to cut off that mounting boss on the engine and bend the tube inwards to go behind the downpipe, there is room but finding a mandrel bender in Dubai
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its could do with number 4 primary altering
you could cut a pie slice out from the outside of the top bend number 4 primary
and weld it to the inside of the bottom bend of number 4 primary just above the engine mount
it would keep the tuned length the same and also alow the water pipe to run in its designed position
that way you would just need someone who could tig stainless
Just to echo Darbo, using the pie segment could you move the offending pipe into the position illustrated below?
Looking good now
Like them wheels too, i would mod the exhaust manifold as said in above post.
Keep up the good work
You must be getting that warm fuzzy feeling about now!!!!!!
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
hmm, I hadn't thought about chopping up the manifold, makes sense, if I could get away with it, I guess I would have to make sure I got my angles right, otherwise it could get messy.
After cutting, would you flip the piece top to bottom?
The manifold is Mild Steel, should be able to find someone to tig it
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What about filling the exhaust with sand and heating it up... Doesnt look like it needs to move much to make the rail fit...
hmm, had my mate look at it and have just finished cutting off the mounting casting, if I can bend the alloy, it will give me about 15-20mm clearance, so might leave my nice headers alone
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Just goes to prove that everything you touch with a modified old Ford is a problem and therefore a pain in the arse.................guess that's what makes it so rewarding when you finally finish
Looks superb, and do like it on the alloys
EDIT - Found what type it is now!
.................
Sorry i missed what type of water rail you are using?
I like how it goes under the manifold unlike most of the others out there.
Im planning on using the RetroFord manifold. Just need to see if i will have the same problem with that type of water rail..
Last edited by evobda2; 24-03-2010 at 13:20.
(Dunnell does a manifold too, thats designed to fit over his water rail.)
LOL, I even gave you a link to the offending item, the Dunnell water-rail is very nice, I just should not have mixed it with a SBD manifold.
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haha cheers. I realised straight after i did the post, when scrolled up again.. damn eyes :P
going to be a quality machine when finnished,ive got one of those willwood cylinders on my clutch and it leaks down the push rod seams to be a common fault,would change them for girling if you can get them
Bu**er, well I have 3 of them, if they leak I will have a nice little puddle of DOT5.1 on the floor
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For the money you have spent on the rest of the car....change them anyway???? Better than brake fluid eating that nice shiney paint thats coming soon!
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
Well it would seem that I have been doing very little, but messing around trying to get bits fitting, then having bits shipped from the UK seems to soak up an inordinate amount of time.
I got a Fuel Safe internal Swirl pot/Catch tank which means I can fit the pump in the tank
Bit of a tight fit, but all goes in there
Cleaned up the exhaust and sprayed with some VHT hi-silicone content paint
Quick shake and bake
Mounted up my Fuel Pressure Regulator, with a bracket made out of angle iron (and yes it will fit under the bonnet)
Made a set of retaining straps for the Dry Sum tank, from B&Q supplied piece of galvanized steel, will line them with foam tape to cushion.
Had to cut off the big threaded breather outlets, as by the time I had fitted 90 degree adapters they were fouling the bonnet, so chopped them off and got a couple of bits of 12mm pipe welded on. Bent the pipe by filling with sand, hammering the ends closed, heating with a blow torch and bending gently.
Fitted the catch tank, will probably change the breather pipe to something prettier
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Top stuff.
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
just been looking for pictures of 4 linking and turret fitting. i found yours and they are a great help. great thread by the way.
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