You are up early this morning
You are up early this morning
Got myself a set of Sabelt 6 point harnesses from Gulf Sport, at a very decent price.
Question is, am I OK to use the existing seat belt mounts for the lap strap and will the rear seat mount bar be OK to wrap the crotch straps around?
Looks like the rear roll cage bar will be OK for the shoulder straps
FedEx brought me an early birthday present today in the form of a new Emerald K6 ECU.
This is the latest iteration of the K3 which I had last time, but has some new features in the hardware (waiting to be activated by a software update)It has been radically redesigned and has the latest generation powerPC processor, waterproof case and connectors, revised 1-channel/2-channel PWM, unipolar and bipolar stepper motor control, onboard Barometric pressure sensor, USB, serial and CAN interface and data storage memory, 6 ignition and 6 injector drivers. Some features will not be available straight away, but will be added as the software is completed. This can be done remotely by adding files to the software.
I got the flying lead loom and plug with the loom, as I was too cheap to spend £250-300 for a custom loom
The loom plug has already got many of the sensors wired in, all it needed was to insert the Wideband sensor wire, ignition feed and injector feeds, then label everything up, quite easy to do
I have a Techedge 2J1 wideband O2 sensor to integrate into the loom for active mapping
The ECU software version and config for those interested
Not sure whether to use a MAP sensor as well as the TPS built in atmospheric sensor and air sensor. I know nothing about MAP sensors so not sure if I need to bother.
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
He wont keep it long enough to have to worry about stuff like that
idealy with the lap belt they should be attached vertically from the holes in the seat side
this is to stop you hitting your head on the roof when upside down
the crotch straps normally attach to a pair of eyes welded to the rear seat mounting bar
i suppose you could wrap them round if needed
more details required for the emerald setup
dunno if im going the same route
so the more details you supply the more ill be convinced lol
keep it up
Huh, you back in town yet, am off to Auckland in the morning, back Saturday
And I should care.....so the more details you supply the more ill be convinced lol
Seriously though this is my second Emerald, I really like the product a lot, I just wish Karl would get a forum or support website sorted sometime this century!
Won't stop me buying what I regard as by far and away the best bang for the buck, it's just unnecessary.
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
that was in reply to the bulkheads fittings for the wiring didnt see rest of the posts.
Got the initial loom planned out, pretty easy when you get stuck in, here is my variation (click here to download the PDF)
Feel free to comment if you see any obvious flaws
Laid out and tried in the car to get the correct lengths, then a bit of heatshrink
The rest of the wiring and plugs will be sorted out after painting, as I am using grommets and not bulkhead connectors
Last edited by dobuy; 21-06-2010 at 17:45.
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Great stuff mate, thanks for the detailed progress. very helpful.
OK, small update, it seems to be taking me for ever to get every job done
First off after much measuring I got the biggest air filter I could fit, to support the horsepower target I am after (280ish)
Bit tight, but with a bit of judicious bending of the mesh frame, it fits pretty good, only problem is the only way I will be able to remove the air filter is to also remove the throttle bodies, still happy with that as a compromise.
Bought a 75mm flaring tool on eBay, does a great job, so 7 nice holes later
Fitted my wings properly and did some work on the panel gaps, needed a fair bit of filler on the right hand side to get it all to fit properly (Smith & Deakin) Particularly at the top of the door
Left hand side before, does not need as much work
Cleaned up the doors, cut the insides out of them, as will be running fixed poly windows, kept the door opener. No real restoring required, just an hour or two of cleaning up the surface rust.
Other door after cleaning and rust proofing
Then with alloy panel to cover up
Spent a bit of time today trying to work out were to fit the oil cooler, ended up this was the only place that I could make work.
Only occludes the radiator a little
Finally had a look at what hoses I need to pick up from Think Auto on Monday morning, when up in Heathrow for the day
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Looking fantastic! I keep forgetting this is a Mk1. Keep up the great work!
How are you planning on mounting the polycarb side windows? Tossing up with using a 5 piece kit in my car but I will only do it if it can be mounted neatly and securely. Also, did you get the formed rear? Is it a direct copy of the glass one??
Good to see your still at it........
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
I didn't use that much filler did I??keep forgetting this is a Mk1
The rear window is formed, according to the bloke who supplied me, they are all designed to be held in by the original seals, yet to try them. I picked up a couple of little alloy strips from Ralloy to support the door windows, as I have taken out the window lift mechanismHow are you planning on mounting the polycarb side windows?
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Hi
Just read through your thread, good work keep it up. looking at your engine fittin pics reminds me of what i had to do when i fitted my motor.
cheers
So you are planning on the poly sliding into the existing top and side channels but then held up there with this alloy strip underneath (pressumably rivetted into place)? You got one piece or two piece door poly?
I am a little concerned about the poly becoming one big Rolf Harris wobble board and making a noise. Hopefully the front sliders may help to reduce that on the front windows but not sure how the rear side and back will go (if the back is formed as per the glass one then it should not be an issue).
Do you have any idea of a completion date yet for your car?
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
Yep, something like thatSo you are planning on the poly sliding into the existing top and side channels but then held up there with this alloy strip underneath
November or December is the plan, just not sure which year tho'Do you have any idea of a completion date yet for your car?
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
:d
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
Checked out how to fit the poly windows, as the car is primarily planned to be used on the track, I never see it using wind up windows again. So using the standard window channel on the top, I slid the poly window into place. I had thought about using some kind of cunning channel, but decided instead to bolt the windows through the inside of the door to the other side of the window channel. Will get a few pretty domed Allen bolts to tidy it up.
Picked up some nice window strengthener fillets from eBay for the roll cage
Bit of seam sealing, in anticipation of paint
Bracket for the
Rally Design front chin spoiler, unfortunately it was not meant to fit bubbles, so a bit of chopping and GRP filler
Blended in OK now
Made up some checker plates for the floor, thanks for the sheet Gareth!
Bare metalled the doors
and after several days of bare metalling, seam sealing, filling and cleaning the shell, finaaly got her to hi-build primer
Funny how the flash shows up the little bits you missed
Have to say the roll over jig is bloody handy for painting, hardest bit is getting all the tubes painted
Morris showing me how to do the doors properly, think the kitchen stool will need a bit of TLC in the form of a Ford colour
Not a bad effort at that
So tomorrow it is stone-chip for the underneath, then maybe a lick of top coat on the stone-chip to seal it off
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
oooh Im getting excited, you must be buzzing.
looking great, keep up the great work,
cheers, Justin P
Fantastic work mate! Keep the pics coming!
It's like a baby is coming.........we are the expectant Dads!!!!!!
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
Thanks for the comments. Am really enjoying this part of the resto, but it is a lot of hard work trying to get all the little details of the bodywork right. Got the stone-chip done yesterday, will maybe get a chance to flick a coat of top coat over the stonechip today, then that is about all for a month or so between work and holidays.
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Did a bit of body work the next day blending the rear bubbles, anohter coat of primer. Then got the Sonechip done OK, left it out in the sun for a couple of hours and it was piping hot, so no problems with viscosity.
Finally a lick over of topcoat underneath the seal the stonechip and make the dirt fall off easier.
Decided to stonechip the bottom of the front panel, as like most of these, it is not particularly smooth and I was bu**ered if I was going to try and smooth it all out with filler.
Think it looks OK and it is certainly practical.
So that's it for about a month, off on hollies soon.
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Hi Neil, just wondering if you have tried to fit the Raceline Dry Sump to the block yet? I have the Raceline Dry Sump the same as yours but when I try to fit it to the block it rocks on the top of the ARP studs. I will try to add a picture of what I mean. Even if the threads on the stud were trimmed down to try and get enough clearance it still wouldn't be enough as it would also mean taking some of the nut away as well. This would leave nothing gripping the stud. Just wondering if you had come acoss this problem as I don't have a clue what to do from here. I will email Raceline but they are very slow in replying to emails as this is something that is hard to discuss over the phone as the pictures clearly show the problem. Thanks.
Last edited by smicker; 06-09-2010 at 07:12. Reason: pics
Did the spoiler fit to the front pannel ok? as i have been thinking about one for my mk1.
It didn't fit because of the bubbles on my GRP front wings. So took a fair bit of modding, but was easy to do. Should be fine on standard wings
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Quality wise, it was fine, just didn't fit with bubbles
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nice car... love to see it when its done..
What colour is that you are using??? I have changed my mind on colour so so so many times!!! We are now thinking that the car was Vermillion Fire from the factory so either that colour or another shade of orange is probable!!
Also, have you done anything to prevent the alloy door card from drumming??
Last edited by MK1_Oz; 13-09-2010 at 10:14.
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
I went for Signal Orange, a standard Ford colour of the period, as used on Mexico's etc I think
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
looks like your doing a good job ,keep it up
9.7 @ 143 mph http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kF1Ep...feature=relmfu
returned from holidays a few days early to get some of the car painted, had a bit of a mare with the Hi-Build Primer struggling with the heat. It did not really lay on as wet as I would have liked in places, never mind, lots of sanding and time for top coat of the interior and engine bay
Was an absolute pig getting an even colour round all the tubes and nooks and crannies, fairly happy with it, but never again
Engine bay and front was easy by comparison
Body should be much easier, at least for access, still lots of prep to do, but getting there. Got a 10 days of work ahead, sot no more 'til October
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Love that.............looks very smart in the new coat.
Stunning, cant wait, quit the job and finish it for me would ya!!
Cheers,
JP
Looks lovey neil great work
As for the thinners going off too quick are you just using std thinners or have you got some slow thinners to try to help you out?
Not sure Dave, with hindsight I would probably not use hi-build again for the interior. But it all turned out OK and the top coat went on very nicely, few bits may need a lick over with a polishing mop to remove the odd bit of overspray and dust, but pretty happy with it. The outside of the car will be the proof of the pudding.
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Is this single pack paint? Will you clear over the top? I have not got anywhere near the painting stage yet so am yet to start my research on paint types/processes.
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
The paint is 2 Pack or 2K, which just means you have to mix the colour part with reactive thinners (or hardner) to get it to "go off".
The paint I am using is Dupont, but all the big manufacturers, Glasurit, ICI, PPG etc do similar 2K paints.
The colour coat is a high build coat, which gives it a bit more depth than one you are going to clear coat over. What this means is that the reactive part has a high solids content and looks quite viscous, but adds body to the colour part, when you mix it.
I am not using a top clear coat, as I wanted something that would be easy to repair if I get any little knocks on the track and as I am using a standard old school Ford solid colour, clear coat was not required.
If you are doing something similar, you would need
Etch (Wash) Primer to cover bare metal
Hi Build Filler primer to cover old paint and the etch
2K Hi Solids top coat (2 coats, wet on wet, 40 mins between coats)
Quantities depend on level of restoration, but if it is a full resto seriously consider the time and effort it will take and maybe get someone to paint it for you!
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Thanks for that mate. 2K is the one that you need the respirator to apply (ie dangerous stuff)? Is that the one that also takes quite some time to cure so needs to be kept dust free for a few days??
I want to paint myself if I can for 3 reasons;
- run out of cash
- learning a new skill
- can say I did 100% of the car build
I know I will live to regret it though
1970 Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
Yep, very much the same reasons why I wanted to paint mine. The hard bit is round all the nooks and crannies with a roll cage installed, without this it would have been a lot easier.
2K is something to be careful with and is well documented as the stuff contains Iso-cyanates and really does your lungs in over time. However there are plenty of very effective cheap masks that have activated Carbon filters. The one I got cost £20 and I could not smell anything through it, made the mistake of taking it off when finished spraying and I could not believe the density of the fumes, so they do work. Note the main carbon filters actually wear out because of exposure to Oxygen, as well as getting clogged by paint dust, so have to be stored in a sealed bag.
Have a look here to see some examples of what will work
If you are only painting one car, I would argue you will be fine with a chemical fumes mask like mine, rather than an air fed mask. Also get the $5 polyester suits with a hood and wear plastic gloves, then you will be well protected.
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
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