Anyone know somewhere in the bedford/milton keynes area I can get my bias pedal box set up and how much would it cost???
it's bolted in, but I think it should be set up professionaly rather than by me guessing my way through it
Anyone know somewhere in the bedford/milton keynes area I can get my bias pedal box set up and how much would it cost???
it's bolted in, but I think it should be set up professionaly rather than by me guessing my way through it
Set up what???? The bias????
Just crank it onto the front fully and leave it alone
Ps what brakes are you running?
my dad and i fitted it and the pedal hardly moves at all when you push it...
i've never done anything with brakes before so have no idea how to sort it, but I can pass on any advice to him.
just got standard discs on the front until i get paid some more.
And standard drums on the back?????
With that set up with what i have read on here you would want it pretty much on full front bias.
That would mean wind the bias bar so that the bearing inside the pedal moves over to the side that the front master cylinder is. If that makes sence
You are deffinatly better off having more brake force on the front than the rear
cheers
yep. still standard drums on the back for the min.
that seems to make sense. i will have a play around with it tomorrow
if you want to know how to set up the box properly look on rally design website, everything you need to know.
This is doing my head in
I'd quite happily pay someone else to do it, but I don't know where I could go as I don't have a trailer and the car can't be driven.
I am struggling to make and sort of adjustment. At the moment the pedal is as high as it can physically go and has almost no travel. This means the brakes don't really work at all. I think the problem might be that on the rear master cylinder there is enough thread gone through (circled bit on the image below - stolen from rally design) I have tried turning the bar round as to thread more of it in, but I couldn't grip the bar tight enough (even with mole grips) for it to turn. I spent the whole day yesterday trying to sort it, and got nowhere. Can I adjust it on the car or does the pedal box need to come out?
If you take the pedal box out someone can set it up for you on the bench
OK... I took out the pedal box, got it set-up and fitted back into the car (not by me)... bled up the fronts... pedal seemed ok so far... bled up the back, but the pedal started to get really hard to push and once it was fully bled up the pedal was really high and had almost no travel... this was no good. We made adjustments so it was fully biased to the front and had the same.
I was then told that you should always bleed the longest part of the system first so we drained all the fluid out and started again with the back and then the front... pedal still really hard and no travel...
We orginally had 0.625 m/c to the fronts and 0.750 m/c to the rears as these are the sizes the pedal box came with. Then I read a post by retromotorsport on OSF saying that you should have the larger cylinder to the fronts. So I thought it's worth a try but we still have the same result.
Now my line of thinking is that because it's standard drums on the back that it might need a smaller m/c or maybe they both need changing??? I have no idea really. I bought this pedal box for engine bay space and to be a bit more "futureproof" for when I want to upgrade/sell, but will it work with standard discs at the front and standard drums at the back??? Or maybe it could be a crap pedal box??? (got from ebay, don't know the brand of pedal box) I'm really lost so any tips would be very helpful
Just thoughts, so don't take it as expert.
Is the rear line straight to the drums, ie. not through a hydraulic handbrake?
Does the mc look new and unused, or could one of the seals have come adrift? I seem to remember reading a similar problem somewhere (with standard mc) and it was suggested the seals had come off stopping the pressure releasing.
Even with really tiny rear slave cylinders the pressure should release shouldn't it?
Or could it be that you have never had non servo brakes before so arent used to the feel? The pedal will be hard with little travel, thats just how they are.
I did think that, but I'm sure it's supposed to move than it does... I mean the car won't actually stop even when really forcing the pedal down. There's probably and inch travel if that...
The line is straight to the drums...
The m/c definately looks new, but I will check it over to see if something has come adrift
Ok dont take this the wrong way.............But you have got the pipes round the right way on the master cylinder?
If so are you saying that the pedal goes hard after an inch of travel but is NOT locking any of the wheels?
can someone tell me if this is correct... I think it is, but just want to check
Yep sounds about right, you should see that the one for the reservoir is bigger than the brake line out
Yep thats right
So if your pedal is going rock solid without aplying the brakes you must either have a fluid lock(two pipes connected togethermaybe) or the actual bias bar/pedle is hitting something. (even with air in the system it should do some breaking )
What calipers have you got on the front and what size cylinders
got 0.750 to the fronts with standard calipers... one is an old one, one reconditioned... got new pads in both, but not sure what. not sure if these would matter though...
I was hoping to sort it out with standard brakes first and then get something more fancy when I have the money (hate buying stuff on credit)
really confusing me
i've checked everything is connected up correctly and i'm sure pedal/bias bar isn't hitting anything. maybe it's fluid lock, but the pedal is fine when either the fronts or the rears are bled up seperately, it's just when they are both bled up it's rock hard. I know it's not me being a pussy pressing the pedal either, it just won't budge! Anyway, I've got all weekend to play about so fingers crossed I will get it sorted
after spending the last 2 months trying to sort it out I have given up.
thanks for all the comments and tips, but I really can't be bothered anymore. i'm going to try and find a local company who can collect my car and sort it out next week and if not my car will be up for sale as I really need a car I can drive and don't have space/money for two cars
when you are hard on the pedal, is the bias bar between the 2 cyl horizontal ish or is it well skewed with the front m/c going in most ?
Can you just confirm what master cylinders you have going where?
I see from a post above 0.750" to the front so what have you got going to the rear.
Normal set-up is smaller diameter master cylinder to the front to apply higher pressure (ie 0.625") and depending upon size of rear brakes and usage 0.700" or 0.750" to the rear?
Regards
Tim
Guess these are needed here too ...
I think it might be straight at the moment. I have had it both going to the front more and going to the rear more when I have had it set up differently to try and figure it out. I will go back out in a bit and film it so I can check
I have larger one to the front (0.750) and smaller to rear (0.625)
I get the same problem with them the other way around though
Thanks for the link... Checking it out now.
I'm completely sold on the m/c sizes thing, and I will double check the bar is not hitting the housing
I would think that the pressure point would be at the end of the cylinder as the piston push that direction. That's how the ones on my pedal box works.
12 years later and let me think the issues have gone or the car has gone !
Well you either have it wrong or completely different type cylinders.
Click on the 2nd pic:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p...67620-gmc-12-r
'68 1100 Deluxe-bog stock soon to be a twincam rep.
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