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Thread: budget economy pinto, 32.6 mpg on sidedrafts, a pinto named dave

  1. #41
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    time for the head now which as i said earlier is an efi head, its not the origonal one to the block but being covered in the same blue dustlooks like it!

    first step was to loosen the tappet adjusters and pop the followers out, the remove the cam retaining plate and throw away a knackered cam!



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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    valves out next, the collets often are very firmly stuck in the spring retainers making it difficult to release them, holding a socket on top of the retainer and giving it a tap with a hammer usually frees them and makes life easier, you will need to hold the socket or it will go flying, i wasnt here but only because i was out of hands.




    valve spring compressor time next, my compressor has a built in slide hammer (see knerled round bit on compressor) so i didnt need to use the hammer/socket trick although i still used it anyway, if i had of been working on a modern multi valve head which have very small valve stems i wouldnt of used the hammer socket trick, for far of dammaging something or having a tiny collet go flying



    once the valves were released it was time to asses the amount of valve guide wear, holding the valve slightly open, try rocking the valve up and down the head then across it, obviously if theres miles of slop the guides are shot, but what your really looking for is to feel how much more play there is on one direction than the other, the reason being the thrust from the cam wears guies oval,



    with no real difference in movment in any direction the guides could be left alone, if worn they can be reclaimed in one of several methods, bearing in mind these engines were built without seperate valve guides teh guie is simply a hole drilled directly in the head, fords method was to use new valves with oversise stems and reem the guides out to a bigger sise to fit the new stem, engine reconditioners sometimes knerl the guides, basically they run something like a tap own the guide hole this raises burrs in it and stops the valve slopping about, this is a crap repair, as the valve now runs up and down on only a few high spots only and very soon you have even more play than you started with, the most common methed the reconditioners use is to reem the guide oversise and insert a very thin guide liner, better still is to drill the head and fit a proper valve guide, in this instance were doing none of the above.
    Last edited by Graham; 02-08-2008 at 11:01. Reason: da speeligk is badd

  3. #43
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    the inlet valves are going to be replaced with bigger Group one versions, not just bigger they are a better more streamlined shape, but not steamilned in the usual way as most of the air going through a pinto head shoots straight across the back of the valve the best shape for a pinto valve is actually a very flat valve, i.e a penny on a stick. perhaps more importantly than being bigger and a faltter shape also they allow a more generous gentle curve to the short side of the inlet port which substancially increases flow through the head, so the inlet valves were just discarded. its worth noting these group one valves are not the ultimate shape but as i already have them and the head isnt going to be an ultimate one its not worth splashing out on a better set



    i cleaned up the heads of the exhaust valves, in a departure from the normal spinning the valve in a drill chuck and cleaing it with emery i instead used the wire brush in my bench grinder which is equilly effective



    it was rather a waste of time though, because once clean i could see the valves seats were quite heavily worn and would need a lot of material taken off them to reclaim them, but worse still a quick check with a collet by trying to slide it up and down in the grooves showed the valve stem grooves to be well worn, the exhaust valves are only really fit for scrap.

    dont ask my why but its always the valve that wears not the collet, but just to double check i tried the collet in a new valve and proved it to be unworn
    Last edited by Graham; 02-08-2008 at 10:58.

  4. #44
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    time to get serious and start porting, because its a messy dirty and time consuming business i will only be removing material from where it does any good and wont be doing a "polishing" or otherwise prettying up the head.

    as a road engine i will be reducing the valve guide bosses but only removing the minimum amount of material that the valves run in so as not to shorten guide life, obivously i need to open up the inlet throats to suit the bigger inlet valves and will pay close attenion to getting the smoothest gentlest turn on the short side of the port, and aim to leave a slightly radius'd troat to the long side of the port on the long side of the inlet i wil remove only as much as i have to to blend in the new bigger valve seats this straightens out the port a bit, the exhaust will mainly just get a clean up where ther are several steps just above the valve seat, again the guide boss reduced and i will remove some of the "dogleg" to the port whilst hopefully not breaking into the water jacket.

    you might wonder what these mods are based on, a mixture really, im friends with a chap who has done lots of flow bench work on pinto heads, and have bit by bit picked up a fair bit of info over the years, some comes from Vizards how to modify ford SOHC book although that does well predate efi heads, somes just gut feeling and experience as to knowing what used to work on old school heads back in the early 80's,



    all the work was done with these, pink and blue stones, carbide burrs and flap wheels, in place of flap wheels you can use a length of 6mm steel with a slot in the end and emery paper wrapped round it, but i cant be bothered withthat flap wheels are fairly cheap, if you need one smaller than you have, you can tear out every other flap and make them smaller, sometimes i end up tearing out 2 leaving 1 then tearing out the next 2 and so on, it doesnt seem to effect there life much either.

    blue stones really do chop away at the material and leave quite a rough finish and they do tend to bounce around if you dont hold the die grinder fairly firmly with two hands, pink stones are much more gentle and leave a much smoother surface and are easier to control, carbide burr are like blue stones they really chew through cast iron, but are prone to chattering around and firm two handed control is order of the day sing them, flap wheels are great for general smoothing our and raduising bits where you want precise control of material removed rather than spped of removal
    Last edited by Graham; 02-08-2008 at 12:35.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    Here's a daft question - why does worn collet grooves scrap the valve?
    To my way of thinking, the spring pressure will always force the collet to the end of its travel, and therefore there shouldn't be any movement?
    Or is the worry that the looseness could cause the collets to ping off with the engine in use?
    Last edited by exboyracer; 02-08-2008 at 11:19. Reason: typos
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    until wear is such that the valve is weaked/worn enough that a fatigue crack starts then the stem breaks, or as you suggest the collects can ping out, god only knows how because in theory the spring perssure wont allow it, but it does happen, and any such wear will only be hastened by a hotter cam and stronger valve springs.

    on a race engine you can stop the wear by grinding a bit off the collets so they touch and grip the valve solidly, but this isnt a good idea on a road engine, because doing this stops the valve rotating in use theresfore the valve seats degrade much faster
    Last edited by Graham; 02-08-2008 at 11:37.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave



    this is a std inlet throat, as you can see ford used 3 angled seats to produce something of a radius to the turn in the port, but in reality its not that good, the seats are too wide and steps between them too big


    my first step was to insert seat cutting pilot



    and use a 60 degree cutter to open the throat out until all of the origonal ford 45 degree seat had been cut away





    then out with the 45 degree cutter to put the new larger dia seat in place



    i made the seat a tad over 2mm wide, it will narrow down a fraction when i open the throat up
    Last edited by Graham; 02-08-2008 at 12:01.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave





    using the die grinder and a pink stone i ground away all the new 60 degree seat, gently tapering away the material removed until it blended into the roof of the port with no nasty steps






    using the back edge of the stone i radiused the short side of the turn, pink stones are nice and gentle and remove teh material nice and smoothly



    a well worn blue stone (which are pretty vicious) was just the tool for slimming down the width of the valve guide boss although i will smooth over the top of teh boss i wont reduce it in length, lots of care is now needed to make sure i dont catch the valve seats when grinding bacause as soon as i start to remove material from the guide boss i wont be able to recut the valve seats again, this is because my seat cutters rely on the top of the guide boss being perfectly square, thats not to say they cant be cut just i cant do it.
    Last edited by Graham; 02-08-2008 at 12:58.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    after swapping around various stones, usually going smaller and smaller to get in corners and a bit of smoothing with the flap wheels the inlet looks something like this




    what the pics dont show is that although the head no longer has 3 angle seats the throat has a slight taper or venturi to it which is effectivly the same thing only better. the group 1 valve is 2.5mm bigger than std although the troats have gone up in side by 3.5-4mm, had the head of been much more downdraft you could of opened them up more, but on a head like this where the mixture has a tight corner to go round that would be counteractive





    again the pictures dont really convey it but for me one of the most pleasing things i managed was to get a nice gentle curve on the short side of the port, this should really pay off in flow rates





    group1 inlet sitting nicely aloneside a std (knackered) exhaust valve




    finally, after dropping an old bmw valve in the inlet port to protect the seat i did a bit of gentle grinding on the bump on the chamber wall to make the bump slightly concave because which according to mr vizard the bump shrouds big inlet valves. no attempt was made to polish the chamber as it does nothing except look nice
    Last edited by Graham; 02-08-2008 at 13:10.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave



    Probably another daft question - are carbide cutters not good for use on cast iron heads, or do you just prefer using the grinding stones?
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    i use both for producing a big radius its hard to beat using a stone simply because large stones have bigger diameters.

    carbide cutters are great though if you want to remove a lot of metal quickly, but tend to chatter and jump around making a big mess if your not carefull, infact it was a carbide cutter i reduced the exhaust guide boss with

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    exhaust next, well next on here i actually did the exhaust ports first


    std exhaust showing all the lumps and bumps in the throat, this is an unleaded head with factory inserts, these inserts arnt actually very big or deep so i choose not to open the throats up as thinning the insert increases the risk of it coming out



    so pink stone in the grinder i just smoothed the bumps out


    next was to recut the seats



    after recutting the seats the next step was to reduce the valve guide bosses, to make sure i didnt catch the seats with the carbide burr i removed the material with i did all the work going through the port, not down through the throat




    whilst in the port i removed material to make the dog leg corner in the port less abrupt


    these mods have really opened out the exhaust port and nothing has been sacrificed in terms of guide length
    Last edited by Graham; 02-08-2008 at 14:02.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    at first glance i thought the cam bearings would be ok as they are bronze, but a quick run around the midlde one with my finger told another story, it was shot i could feel a bloody big ridge in it, the ridge being caused by the oil grove in the cam journal not touching the bearing



    if your careful and work your way round the bearing little by little you can knock them out with a flat ended punch and a hammer without damaging the head
    Last edited by Graham; 02-08-2008 at 14:09.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    Very interesting read this well done Graham

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    Graham,

    Without raining on your parade etc.....

    Peoples, please note, that he has not cleaned up head and has a good "witness" mark where head gasket goes, which allows him to know where to finish the unshrouding of chambers.
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    your quite right roger,

    its worth noting that using std size exhaust valves no unshrouding is needed, vizard recons big inlets are shrouded and benifit from laying the chamber wall back a bit. i did actually "engineers blue" the head face, before accuratly laying a head gasket on it and scribing around the inside of the fire ring, after doing that i came to the conclusion that there was next to no material i could safely remove without undercutting the gasket so decided at this stage to leave it alone,

    obviously had the engines bores been bigger than only +0.5mm and i were using a gasket with a bigger fire ring it might be another matter, and indeed if i were using a 1300 or 1600 head casting it would of been a route to follow

    i will at some point be skimming the head, this makes the chamber smaller in width so if might be worth opening out the chambers a bit later on

    Last edited by Graham; 03-08-2008 at 09:26.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    i just fitted some new heavy duty cam bearings, if your gentle and use a mallet you can gently tap them in the first 5mm or so being carefull to keep the bearing square to its hole, also obviously making sure you have lined up the oil ways, note the groove running to the back edge of the rear bearing this lubricates the cam retaining plate, if this bearing was fitted so that the oil way in the head still lined up but the grove faced forward you would starve the plate of lubrication, possibly this might account for the worn groove in a couple of other pinto refurbs in other threads?



    i used a nut and bolt, big socket and an old alternator pulley which has a flat back to pull the bearing all the way home, but pretty much anything which will sit flat against the bearing all the way roun its circumference will do


    bearings all in



    lastly i popped to old cam back in just to make sure it rotated freely, which it did.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    nice job i think the care you have taken not to hit the seats when opening the port out to the larger valve is understated

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    Very good thread Graham

    Nice porting, I port my heads the same way, concentrating in the same critical areas, except I get my valve seats machined at a local engine reduilders.

    I use carbide burrs for most of the rough work, then I use white grinding stones which are excellent, they don't last long but are well suited to removing cast iron, then I go straight to using the flap wheel and emery paper on the short turn radius.

    Can I ask where you got the seat cutting equipment?
    Do you opperate this with a hand drill?
    Looks like a very good job, nice to have control over cutting your own valve seats, I like them to be barely faced into the head so that you don't upset the valve height and rocker geometry.

    Will be keeping an eye on this post.
    Don't forget to run in the engine like a lunatic lol.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    brill thread graham.

    Thanks for detailing/ documenting it so carfully am sure others along with myself appreciate it

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave



    after lapping in the valves you should have a nice grey line where they seat, looking at the valves it was clear opening the throats and recutting the seats in the head had maximised the valve area to flow air through the head and all was well with the seats, but looking further the inlets being a nice group one shape were fine, but it was clear the exhausts had some large steps which could usefully be removed,



    so it was time to fire up the hernia machine and grind a healthy 30 degree back cut on the valve to remove the worst of the steps




    i just gently ground away until i just touched the grey lapping in line, my machine wont put a 60 degree cut on the very bottom of the valve, but as the seat is quite close to the edge there isnt much material to remove


    what i did though was to put a small radius on the edge of the valve that prtrudes into the combuston chamber, that improves flow past the exhaust valve and reduces its running temperature

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    next i wanted to check the installed height of the valve springs. the installed height can be effected by valve length, retainer type, seat cutting, the spring platforms in teh headaround the guides can be machine to give more clearance or fitted with shims to reduce clearance.

    Kent cams specify their VS9 sping for the caravan cam, they specify a fitted length of 36.54mm, frustratingly they dont give a tolerance, most the fitted lengths came up a fraction over 36mm, which is getting on for 0.5mm small, something i wasnt too worried about as it will have very little impact, a quick scan through kents catalog show they also specify the same springs for another cam which as 0.5mm more lift than the caravan cam so they springs are unlikely to go coil bound, that said i had a problem with one inlet valve the gap was coming up 1mm too small, i wasnt happy with that one, and was struggling to find a reason for it meassuring the valve protrusion showed that valve wasnt seated deeper in the head than the others, neither was it shorter and the cotter groves were in pretty much the the same place as the others, i swapped the retainer on that valve for a spare incase i had a duff retainer, swapping it made no difference, in the end i came to the conclusion it was just the way all the tolerances on that one valve/seat como had added up and put the retainer from that valve in the the lathe and turned it down to get the spring height the same as for all the other valves




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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    after chasing the flywheel bolts in the end of the crank with a M10x1.0mm tap much cleaning and scrubbing came next, getting the crank and block really clean, paying special attension to blasting plenty of detergent through all the blocks oils ways and giving the bores a really good scrub to make sure no honing grit remained, then with an airline then blew its all dry oilways included.



    with the crank i also like to give the oil ways a clean with some pipe cleaners, as per pic (note i actually took this pic before cleaning its just for demo purposes)



    heres the block back on the engine stand after having 0.020" / 0.05mm skimmed off it, skimming the block removed the shamfer off the top of the bores, this needs putting back with a file or similar otherwise there a real risk of chipping a piston ring when you fit the pistons.



    making sure every thing is spotlessly clean, i put teh upper half of the main bearings back in, here you can see i've coated some in some black stuff, thats graphogen, i very slippery grapite compound, it has excelent lubrication properites and i always build engines with it if there a chance they might sit around a while before being run or someone other than myself will be fitting it, it totally elimiates any possiblity of the engine starting up on "dry" bearing.



    i perfer to drop the crank in WITHOUT the thrust washers then slide them round into position, less chance of doing damage or them ending up on a floor



    the lower halfs i stick to the bearing cap with grease,



    and gently nip the bearing up with a spanner, as long as the crank still rotates freely i torque the bolts up fully and again check the crank rotates freely



    if you only ever fit/torque up one bearing cap at a time, then check the crank still turns freely after fitting each bearing, if suddenly you find its gone tight you know the problem is with the last bearing you torqued up. obviously each bearing you fit will give the crank a bit more resistance to turning, but until you start fitting the rods and pistons thumb pressure alone on the crank counterweights should be enough to rotate the crank
    Last edited by Graham; 08-08-2008 at 14:05.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    before fitting no 5 main apply a little sealant to the rear edge of the block otherwise oil may leak between the cap and block, i prefer to fit the rear main oil seal before putting fittin g the bearing cap, just make sure its square, as its easier than fitting it afterwards


  25. #65
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    these pistons were so clean thee ring groves didnt need anything other than a wash, but normally if your reusing old pistons your find a ring of carbon in the bottom of the ring grooves this must be removed before you attempt to fit new rings. the best tool for doing this is to snap and old ring in two, wear goggles and hold the ring just either side of the gap and open it up as if trying to straighten it out, they usually snap and the broken edge of the broken ring makes an idea scraper for cleaning the carbon out



    the packaging makes it clear which rings go in which groove, whats not so clear is rings are sided and must be fitted the right way up in the ring grove, althogh often difficult to see they have the word top etched in them near the gap, the only exception being some oil control rings, the ones that consist of two very thin rings and a seperate expander which goes between them.



    forgetting to take a picture i fitted a big end shell in the top half of the con rod and applied some graphogen to the surface with runs againt the crank


    contray to popular belief do not lubricate the rings or pistons, in the first few seconds of running the rings will get all the oil they need thrown off the crankshaft at them and the bores, that first few seconds of running on dry bores helps bed the rings in and is a good thing, the only exception i would make is if the engine is to sit around for any period of time before being fitted and wont be stored in dry room with a dehymidifier the i give the bores a light spray with wd40, this will stop them rusting but not hinder the bedding in process too much.

    clamping the rings firmly with a ring compressor but not really tighlty place the piston in the bore, arrow forwards, make sure the bottom edge of the compressor is against the block at the way round, if its not quite flush a ring can poke out as you knock the piston in and you will probably break or at least chip it.

    most engine builders use the shaft of a hammer to knock the piston in, im no different, you need firm but not hard blows, once the piston is in teh bore gently push it allthe way down, being carefull to check the it lines up with the crank properly rather than just hitting the crank journals with a rod bolt or edge of the rod, once all the way down fit the bearing cap (maing sure its the right way round) complete with bearing and lubricant, nip up bigend nuts /bolts and as long as the crank still turns freely torque bolts up to correct torque ( sorry forgot pics again) if the crank doesnt turn freely most likely you have got a bearing cap the wrong way round or maybe even mixed them all up, sometimes its because you have got some dirt between the bearing cap and its shell





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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    bottom end all torqued up



    the block was decked 0.020" or 0.5mm, bringing the pistons out the top of the block, sadly being AE pistons they arent quite square measuring the proturussion show that there are differences from one side of the piston to the other side of the same piston that said its not the end of the world and the differences arent enough to worry about on a sensable road engine, if it were a race engine i would of had more machined off the block and then had all the pistons machined to get them all exactly the same, that said if it were a race engine i wouldnt be using AE pistons in the first place


    flywheel on, the flywheel is totally std, for this sort of engine in a fully trimmed proper raod car i think a std flywheel is the best option, given something like a traffic jam its owner will be able to stop and start, pulling away using no throttle just the clutch, it wil also help maintain a nice smooth slow idle and excellent very low speed manors, bearing in mind the raised compression in conjunction with a mild cam will work against that.

    nothing too special about fitting it except i like to give the flywheel a gentle lap into the crank using some grinding paste to make sure the two are a perfect true fit, new flywheel bolts are a must as is some loctite on them, for a higher performance engine than dave then doweling the flywheel to the crank should be a high priority. new spigot bearing is a std replacemnt pattern part.


    the oil pump which i previosuly stripped and found in A1 condition was just washed, reassembled with a little grease on the rotors and a new drive fitted



    aux shaft in and oil pump on, i cant do anymore with the bottom end as im waiting for a core plug for the main gallery and the sump and pick up



    until the bits arrive the daves block stays wrapped up in a couple of plastic bags

    and covered in a blanket to keep the bags clean

    Last edited by Graham; 09-08-2008 at 16:14.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    a spot of buretting of the head ( no need to fit the valve springs just smere a little grease on the valve seats)




    the chamber volume came out at 50cc, which is 2cc bigger than a std 2.0 head which is normally 48cc, a little of the increase will be use to seat cutting and my slight chamber reshaping, but most of it will be because the group one valves are much thinner than std ones and have a dish in there middle.

    a few sums, allowing for the 0.5mm rebore, the now protruding pistons, and that i will use a thinner than std felpro head gasket showed that the bottom end mods had raised the compression to 9.9:1



    i want a bit more than 9.9 so the head got a 0.014" skim which brought its cc down to 47.5 and brought the CR upto 10.3.

    if later on the owner wants to drop the compression back down to under 10:1 then all that needs doing is the head gasket swapping for a std OE thickness one.


    finally for now until i have a camkit, i bashed a new coreplug in the back of the head, i left the core plugs in the block alone because they were new anyway
    Last edited by Graham; 09-08-2008 at 20:18.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    Very thorough work and write up.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    thanks dave, it seems to take nearly as long to put this stuff on the thread as to do it.

    its worth noting that people who think £500 for a modified head is a lot think again, theres been a good days work on the head alone it not to mention £200 worth of valves and cam bearings in this head, most heads will need repairs to the valve guides, plus skimming and seat cutting would have to be costed in
    Last edited by Graham; 09-08-2008 at 20:19.

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave



    how much can the pistons protrude safely? lets say assuming a 7500 rpm limit

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by alladdin View Post


    how much can the pistons protrude safely? lets say assuming a 7500 rpm limit
    as well as rod type that rather depends on the head gasket thickness,

    but assuming a felpro gasket which has a 0.040" compressed thickness i would say 0.010" out with a strong rod like a YB one, 0.005" with a std rod

    this engine has std rods and the pistons 0.010" out, well some parts of some of them , but its never going to be revving that high, the caravan cam will out of puff by 6K

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    Excellent stuff Graham It makes sense in ways that the Haynes doesn't

    Out for a drive on a sunny spring day reminds me why I got this car

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    standard efi rev limit is wat? wat cam are you using?
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    i dunno what the std efi rev limit is, somewhere around 6k i guess, not bothered really the cams a kent FR30 which is a high torque cam that will of run out of puff by 6k, the object of the exercise here is to get a very torquey flexable engine that works well at low revs and thus gives a really nice usuable power delivery and good economy,

    basiaclly im aiming for an engine with Essex V6 grunt and efi pinto economy

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    ok....cause im about to use an efi system from a japanese car on my pinto...(want back the drivability n reliabilty of Efi). and it has a 6500rpm rev limit the cam is a Fr21 anyway.
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    Limited at 6250 rpm i beleive
    Really interesting cos i use an FR30 as well in my EFi but not had it on RR yet.
    I know the AFM is a restriction in the inlet, ever thought of using a larger one from a BMW or similar or would that not solve anything?

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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    thats a common mod on a mk2 digifant i think, fitting a bmw AFM
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    well my efi setup uses a MAP sensor so thats a plus, if fittin Itbs or going the forced induction route
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    quick question. what's the most torque/Hp that can be achieved from a sensible road going n/a 2l pinto?

    40's are ok but cannt handle the excessive lumpiness n having to blip the throttle so regular. tried it a couple times dont like it in traffic.
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    Re: budget economy pinto with some power, how to rebuild a pinto named Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by SidewaysMk1 View Post
    quick question. what's the most torque/Hp that can be achieved from a sensible road going n/a 2l pinto?

    40's are ok but cannt handle the excessive lumpiness n having to blip the throttle so regular. tried it a couple times dont like it in traffic.
    sounds like you need to get your 40's set up properly, correcty set up they shoudl have a better ile and nicer mannor than everything except a properly mapped engine managemnt system such as MBE, OMEX, DTA emerald etc

    regards torque horsepower, about 140bhp 150lbft for a sensable road engine

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