Cortina MK3 2.8TT

[caprimentle]

Rally cars are normally n/a and need the compression to get the power. I am running a 12.5/1 cr in mine or so i worked it out that way. I know of people running 13/1 in their rs2ks too! I couldn't believe how low cr the cosworth turbos run as standard i think 8.5/1 is standard!

i'm on about proper rally cars, modern turbo'd 4wd world championship rally cars, not old escorts on webers lol. because they have to run restrictors to limit power they use high compression to try and make the most of the engine and achieve full boost quicker.

[Sultzi]

That cosworth low cr is normal at that time been made.

With these days Ecu's and fuels I think 10:1 is min for turbo engine. Calculated that this should have that 10:1 cr with new pistons and around 0.9mm squish.

[freddy686868]

i'm on about proper rally cars, modern turbo'd 4wd world championship rally cars, not old escorts on webers lol. because they have to run restrictors to limit power they use high compression to try and make the most of the engine and achieve full boost quicker.

My bad. I was on about millingtons on jenveys :P

[MegatronUK]

That cosworth low cr is normal at that time been made.

With these days Ecu's and fuels I think 10:1 is min for turbo engine. Calculated that this should have that 10:1 cr with new pistons and around 0.9mm squish.

Try 7.0:1 as per my air cooled 911.... it's really old school turbo technology - the power delivery is nothing, nothing, nothing - BANG! ohmyeffinggawdslowdown!. It's bloody good fun though

Modern stuff is so easy to drive off-boost because of the reasons you've stated. Then you've got the modern tdi's and they've started to blur the lines between the feel of a petrol and diesel because they're so responsive both on and off boost.

[Sultzi]

Try 7.0:1 as per my air cooled 911.... it's really old school turbo technology - the power delivery is nothing, nothing, nothing - BANG! ohmyeffinggawdslowdown!. It's bloody good fun though

Modern stuff is so easy to drive off-boost because of the reasons you've stated. Then you've got the modern tdi's and they've started to blur the lines between the feel of a petrol and diesel because they're so responsive both on and off boost.

I do know what you mean, I had previosly daily driver Merc (diesel) and it had power curve like this:

~300rpm rise and ~200bhp and ~300nm increasement suddenly, was bloody fun to drive. Had enough time to brace myself not to shit my pants when turbo started spooling

But back to the real deal.. I modified original oil pan to fit that main girdle, all tack welded to new mounting plates



All tig welded now, did work pretty nicely



Oil pump pickup, not showing in picture but now it's around 7-8mm from the pan, need to increase it to around 9-10mm.


Got ARP studs for the girdle, a bit too short. Friend of mine did mill some room for the nuts and now they fit spot on.



Trial fitted pressure plates for cylinder boring, block is now at machinist work shop. Should get it back around 3weeks.


Better starter ring changed to flywheel and tig welded to ensure it stays on (a bit too small diameter on the flywheel for it)


Need to order roller rockers from Harland Sharp USA, these fit directly to heads and use original type of oiling also through the center bolt.


Been hacking with rear arch to accommodate wider rims (10x15"). This is where I started from and second pic is current status. Did order 225/45 r888 toyos for the rims, so I can do final adjustments to the arch.



Front end was easier, both are now rolled. First pic shows where I started and second is what I came up with, should do.

[Sultzi]

Small update if someone is intrested

Started to make new fuel rails, drilled holes for injector bungs that will be welded on the fuel rails


Will be something like this when ready


Got new 65mm throttle body to replace original 2.8i double throttles (simplies boost pipes and gives a bit more room front of the engine)


Electronic fuel pressure regulator to work with fuelab fuel pump


Modified original gearbox cross member for bmw box


Small hole needed to be done to get box high enough


Made more room for the propshaft at the back




Power steering pump located and mounted to trunk


Turbo flanges welded


So I could make the manifolds ready



Other side was way too complicated and alternator would not fit so new one needed to be made


All welded






Did got the turbos pretty same with both sides



Bought cast 3" v-band adapters from ebay


Ford Racing 90degree oil filter adapter and mocal oil cooler sandwhich with thermostat


New h-profile rods from one of the Finlands top makers


Will by trying these at the back only, we'll see what kind of sound they have..

[brettp]

This is the nuts love the car and the ideas keep the updates coming

[MegatronUK]

Some work going in to this! What sort of power figure are you aiming for?

[Sultzi]

Thank you, plan is to get this on the road for summer at some point

Well old engine had 430hp, so anything under 500 will be disappointment

[wildo105e]

great amount of thought going into this.

Top job

[escortinadriver]

This is just nuts.
Love anything different, and the level of engineering is outstanding.

Keep the pics coming.

Shaun

[caprimentle]

That's some fantasic work, you aint affraid to take a grinder to the old girl either are ya lol

[Sultzi]

Thanks, old girl is also driven much harder than should

So, next on the list was trying to fix one broken exhaust manifold mounting thread, it did crack in two pieces first time I mounted the manifold. I just put longer bolt and nut behind it to hold the manifold tight, this did work but wasn't so pretty..

Here is the place after soldering with brass


Machined the face straight (with hand file )


Then just drill hole to right place and tap it (mistake here, original is m10x1.5 and I made this to m10x1.25, but maybe I find stud for it)


And finally rounded the edges to make it look good




Another thing, made big hole back of the intake plenum


This plate will be welded there, it has bosch 3bar (absolute) and intake temp sensor in same, this makes engine room way more cleaner

[stevieturbo]

Excellent work.

A lot of fasteners around a Subaru are M10x1.25 if it helps

eg

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Eng...item3ce36a6100

Or just drill it and helicoil it to M10x1.5

[Sultzi]

Yeah, will be using for one stud finer stud and rest can be original 1.5mm pitch..

Small update here..

Modified this original timing gear cover, grinded off the thermostat inlet and made new slimmer water inlet from electric pump. This way I can install a bit bigger fan than earlier..







Started to make adapter for 65mm throttle body. Will turn body 180degrees another position, so throttle cable will come underneath.









Did measure oil clearance on crank bearings with plastigage, it was spot on. Need to check rod big ends too later on..



And finally rockers arrived from harland and sharp USA, nice piece of kit must say Now I can measure correct lenght pushrods for this setup and order them.

[raymondmarble]

Nice!!!

[r2d2]

[Sultzi]

Thanks again

Couple try and error with old pushrod cutted and welded and correct lenght was found, now I can order parts for them


Also modified valve quides on exhaust side to take same valve stems than intake side uses.


Picked up some modeling clay and checked clearances with pistons and heads, they were spot on, no issues there. Around 10degrees atdc when pistons starts to move faster than valve, there was aprox 2.2mm cleareance between valve and piston with this current camshaft and rockers



Some thing with oil pickup, clearance was fine so need for modification there either.



Made oil returns to the pan


One pic with the engine on the stand


Alternator clearance was also fine with the oil return (wasn't sure, because I didn't have alternator with me when I did make those returns)


Made small extra sump for the pan


First idea of the baffle but this wasn't good at all. No room for opening due to oil pump being there



So came up with something like this




All welded. Clearance with oil adapter was also fine (again, didn't have the adapter with me when I made that sump extension). Sometime I made an4 takeoff to the adapter for the turbos





Trial fitted flywheel and gearbox centering tap to the crank


Made mounts for that bmw electric water pump


MAP/MAF sensor adapter all welded and couple an6 for pressure take offs


And one boost pipe with dump valve done

[exboyracer]

Fascinating work as ever sultzi

Are you going to use the BMW water pump without a thermostat, controlling the water flow electronically?

[Sultzi]

Previously I had davies graig ewp115 with controller without thermostat, it did work nice. Same with this, TinyCWa is the controller for this bmw pierburg waterpump. It controls engine temp via temp sensor and pump rpm and also fans. And when you turn the car off, it regulates water and keeps fans on for two mins. So nice thing with expesially water cooled turbos like i have

[Sultzi]

Made one plate more for the oil pan baffles, maybe should have been more closed on the sides, but will do for now.


Drilled head bolt threads a bit deeper so now those pinto head studs works nicely. Just 4 studs needs double washers (those which are in the outside corners), but luckily I have couple spare



Bought 4.0l v6 camshaft sensor. Took shaft from old distributor and cutted it to correct lenght. Welded end of the camshaft sensor shaft to it and it's done. Pretty much nice looking than big old 2.8 efi tfi distributor which didn't do anything else than gave home signal.





Just need to find connector for it still


Made o-ring grooves to the block. First cut was 0,5mm (shown in pic) and final cut gives 0,7mm groove. Will be using 1mm AISI316 tig rod.

[haadee]

Sick project man, I'm lovin it

[Sultzi]

Thanks

Small progress again.

Did trial test with that o-ring and 1mm wire, looks pretty nice.


Some more welding done on the fuel rails. Mountings and also test for leaks still to do.


Made bracket for the throttle cable, slight modification to accelerator pedal and flap opens fully now


Main brake system will be mounted here


Some silicone hoses for the water pump


Spal 16" diameter fan (only 2" height) mounted on the rad. Also have started to make boost pipes and modified original water outlet with an10 take off for the turbos and heater core.



Fuel regulator mounted and couple hoses done also


Took off the dash, now bit easier to weld that gearbox tunnel and make new wiring to the ecu and gauges


Valve guides needed some shimming down because not enough room for 13.6mm valve lift with current setup. Made tool for it, now there should be enough room between guide and retainer at full lift.


Wasn't happy with gearbox mount I made earlier, so made new one, more stiffer also.


Mounted


Also got Burton Powers "hd" engine mounts, now the engine and transmission should be pretty solid. That is needed because I ordered AKG motorsport stage II quick shifter for the gearbox. Shifter is mounted on the tunnel rather than gearbox like originally in bmw's..

Some progress on the engine also. Got parts back from balancing so where able to start building the engine. Crank and pistons in.





Also timing is now adjusted and cover installed


Got the custom pushrods from usa.


Modified original power steering lines to take an8 fittings.

[raymondmarble]

This build gets better and better!

[postal]

Love a V6 Turbo

[mihakrapez]

Nice. Can you give some more info about modifying the dizzy I need one of those too.

[Sultzi]

Nothing special really. Just buy that 4.0 explorer cam sensor (around 99 to 00 year), complete unit costs around 40$ in the us. Atleast 2.8l efi tfi distributor (which I had) has the same shaft in diameter. So It just need to be cut to correct lenght and weld that 1 tooth wheel to it (which I took from that 4.0 unit). Simple and neat

[Sultzi]

New Melling High Volume oil pump mounted and oil pan with good silicone (hopefully). We'll see how the oil stays in the pan



Cutted and installed o-rings to the block



Studs in


And heads in and torqued


Also got AKG motorsport quick shifter, so where able to do transmission tunnel. Shifts feel very nice and firm, very happy with it.

[caprimentle]

great progress happening here, how come your bores look so smooth and shinny? have they been honed an its just the way it looks in the pictures?

[Graham]

id say its just a normal honing job, camera flash making them look so shiny, if you go back a bit in teh thread your find other pics where they dont shine so much

[Sultzi]

Hi, thank you for the comments.

Block is bored to 0,50mm oversize and of course also honed. Camera flash makes it look more shiny than in reality. Still have the possibility to get it running and drive little bit too this summer

[Sultzi]

Knock sensor mounted to the block. Will be making wiring from that to somewhere easier location, so when dynotuning can easily connect headphones to it.


Painted block and heads now also, looks nice atleast for a while


Modified intercooler inlet for two pipes, makes easier to do boost piping from turbo's.


All welded up and trial assembled



All boost pipes are now done and also air filter inlets too

[Sultzi]

Downpipes made from 3" stainless all the way down, rest of exhaust will be done when I get the car on a hoist.





Brake master cylinder mounted to the trunk and also painted.

[Sultzi]

Downpipes now welded with gas inside too for better seam. They came out nice, expect small miss aligment by me



Operation more room to engine bay on it's way. First I did cut those old clutch master cylinder mounts off and then closed the hole. After that I was able to weld bracket for those new master cylinder, still need to make some reinforcements for it and weld it fully alround





Mounted rockers, first they soaked two days in motor oil to make sure they are well oiled before first start. Pushrods also where correct lenght, thank god


Valve covers needed some modifications to clear new rockers and higher lift.


At the same time I where checking those rocker clearances I noticed strange sound somewhere inside the motor. Did find out that cyl1 conrod bolt did hit the oil pan (modified oil pan, new conrods). So I took the pan off and gave it a bit hammering and mounted it back. Now there is enough clearance between oil pan and conrods.

[zach4564]

wow lots of work ahead, it will be worth it looks like

[zach4564]

how mush power do you plan on making?

[Sultzi]

Thanks. Something around 400-500bhp. Old engine had 430bhp at crank.

[Sultzi]

All welded up


Grinded


Cylinders mounted, plenty of room for the downpipe



Also rods done to inside, well see how ratios work when I get lines all plumbed


BMW shifter rod welded


LS ignition coils mounted to valve covers


Trial testing to engine bay, looks pretty ok..




Got wiring connector for camshaft sensor from USA


Friend of mine welding the fuelrail

[madflow]

V SEX that is ,gorgeous or as the irish are fond of saying "bleeding deadly" , you will be looking for a set of weslake heads if you keep upgrading the engine at this pace.

[Group4_Mark2]

Thanks again
Trial fitted flywheel and gearbox centering tap to the crank

What is the gearbox centering tap and what is it used for? Regards Tom