Cortina MK3 2.8TT

[Sultzi]

Hi.

Yes, little bit bigger but still at the gt28 range. Old ones where 2860r with 44.6mm inducer compressor and 55trim and new ones have 47.20mm inducer at the compressor and 62trim. Turbine side wheels are the same, old housing was ar .64 and new ones are ar .86 (these are gt2860rs "discopotato"). So old ones where rated max. at 310hp and the new ones to 360hp. I'm restricted to use these gt28 series turbo's because car is road legal with those

[Sultzi]

And how the car looks at the moment

[Graham]

. I'm restricted to use these gt28 series turbo's because car is road legal with those

how does that work? is there some list as to what you can and cant use?

[Sultzi]

First time I did get this to the road I had those smaller turbo's and needed dyno graph for the cars power to be under the maximum allowed. If I change those turbos to totally different kind of model then I need to get another dyno graph with those, which I don't wan't to do, pretty tricky If you understand what I mean.. In the car papers there is told what changes I have made to the car, intercooler, turbos (there reads just "two garrett gt28 turbos fitted). So there is couple different models under gt28

But really, I don't think I need more power that these can make. Will see soon what the car will give with 1bar to 1.3bars when I get it to the dyno again

[stevieturbo]

There are GT28's around these days with pretty good numbers...and they'll always spool well. No real need to change from that frame.

[Sultzi]

That's true, need to remember that base engine isn't the best choice at all, so I think gt28 frame turbos are enough for it

Hooked laptop to the ecu and drove with my friend so we could adjust all the cruising cells at the maps to leaner. They were pretty rich after dyno, different thing to drive to downhill, uphill or level road with same tps and rpm. So we made adjustments to map correction table to get those most used cruise cells leaner, so after this I made the closed loop control to work. Maybe I get little bit smaller mileage with the tank

Also finally made ball valve bottom of the breather tank, so draining it is now much easier than earlier. I always needed to take the wheel and inner fender out to open plug at the bottom of the tank. Now i just open this little hatch to open the valve and breather drains through small hose which is routed down between the fender.

[postal]

Cool

[Sultzi]

Friend of mine did call at wednesday that they would need a car asap to a car show which was taken that weekend. So I decided to back him up and bring my car there, because the another car did cancel just before the show, so they where in bad spot..

Here is the pic when we got the cars inside and placed where we wanted them to be




Random pic from driving around last night..

[escortinadriver]

Nice pics.

Shaun

[madflow]

Just being curious or nosey ,are you limited to the engine size or output you can have in that model cortina as was available for sale in Finland ? or can you play with the worded definition they have in their rule books ?

[Sultzi]

Hi guys! Been a while and couple things have happened.

madflow: you are right, we have pretty strick rules about engines and power. We can have 25% bigger engine than the biggest avaible here and 20% more power than the most powerfull version. This has been 2.3l v6 so this gives maximum size for the engine 2842,5cc and power 129,6hp. Size and power don't need to be from the same engine, you can take the power reference from the most powerfull and size reference from the biggest one. In this case they just are the same.

But this just changed a little bit to allow any model from other countries to be the "reference model" (it just needs to be made by ford factory) where we can add those 25% bigger and 20% more powerfull rules. So now I can use that australian market 4.1l i6 as a reference so I can get 5111,25cc engine with max power of 189,3hp.

So i'm putting old good 302windsor based engine to this, this time high revving n/a with quaife 69g gearbox (already have this, been in my room couple years waiting).

Couple things already purchased for the swap.

Donor engine from some truck. This will we used for all the mockup and "MOT" here, after that I will change the block to dart shp which can take the abuse of high rpms..


Some chinese made itb's, these are very good for the price (i think somewhere around 1100£ for the set). Just need some porting on the inlet manifold and small tweaks here and there and change those stupid blue fuel rails to something else. Next option from states would cost over 4000-4500£! Need to change those trumpets to shorter ones, don't fit under the hood.



Block in mockup


Did cut the original engine mounts away and welded the plates (whats left of them) to the axle.


Then I bought some Peterson Fluid system parts. R4 wet sump oil pump and bracket to sbf



Remote filter mount with 1,5" thread. Wix racing filter




Ati damper and peterson fluids spline drive system for oilpump and alternator



Bellhousing for the 69g and windsor


Engine mounts (to the block)


Camshaft sensor to delete that ugly distributor


And RHS 205cc heads with 2.02" inlet and 1.6" exhaust valves and 58cc chambers. These are bare only, will be buying some good valves and will be making hand porting myself. But these are very good as cast also.



RHS valve covers


"Couple" mandrel bends for the headers. These are 304 stainless, with 48,8x1,5mm OD size.


Couple more items are on the way, will update when they arrive

[Graham]

wow, thats a big change

[stevieturbo]

Indeed !!! Curious as to why ?

So much work was put into the turbo setup ? As for the fuel rails, you could easily have the anodise taken off them and re-anodised black or some other more discrete colour

[Sultzi]

Reason is because it's now possible! Just love high rpm windsor and I now get to use that quaife 69g which have been sitting around in my room waiting its turn. Always wanted to build v8 and now it's possible with this car

When I started this car the cologne was the biggest I could put, but now because the law changed I need to make best of it!

New engine will be e85 too.

I more likely will be doing new rails from scratch than trying to use those But the butterflys seems to be good quality, these are copy of the jenveys, so shorter trumpets should fit.

[Mark V8]

WOW

What kind of weight penalty comes with the Dart block ?

Could you get away with a stoker kit once your MOT is sorted ?

Keep the pics coming !

[Sultzi]

Thanks!

Current block is late 80's so its lightweight cast. Dart block is much heavier due siamese bores and extra thick decks etc..

I weighted the front end of the car without engine and tranny, its now at 330kg.

Cant stroke, oil pan clearance is big issue with this Sierra power steering to get the engine low as possible. Will need to use original 3" stroke, but this is good for intended high rpms

[Sultzi]

Did check, dart shp block is 72,5kg this lightweight original maybe 40-50kg? Easily lifted by hands.

[madflow]

i was only going to suggest the 3.8 american v6 essex , but now a 302 can be allowed--thats good news---how do you convince them now that it only puts out 190 bhp

[Mark V8]

[QUOTE=Sultzi;3056919]Did check, dart shp block is 72,5kg this lightweight original maybe 40

That is much heavier !

I'm sticking a 5.0 in my Sierra and as you say it's fairly easy to lift the block yourself, but they are fragile

What I really want is a new aluminium Dart block - but can't afford that !

[Sultzi]

Same here, aluminium is out of my budget. Would be good tought.

[therealpinto]

Nice build, the engine spec is somewhat close to what I have in my distant mind for the next Capri project. Will be interesting to see how you get on!

Gustaf

[Sultzi]

Oil pan almost done, only needs couple an10 fittings for electric oil cooler pump.







These are Finland made billet stainless steel merge collectors, 48,3mm in and 3" v-band out.

[Mark V8]

Very nice collectors

Are you going external oil pump to give the cam gear an easier time ?

[Sultzi]

Thank you! They make anything you like, you can check their site http://elmerracing.com/. These are extremely well priced, not pricey at all for the quality.

Thats one reason for external oil pump, high rpm's and clearance issues in this chassis are couple more.

[brettp]

This car just gets better my favourite classic ford !

[Sultzi]

Thank you mate! Dont like to walk the same path as everybody else..

[the1theycallthe1]

What is the black long fitting on the side of the sump?

Awesome car!

[Sultzi]

Coarse filter before oilpump. No screen in the pickup, this replaces it and is cleanable.

[paul g]

great work

[costina]

All i can say is Wow. This car has gone from being compleated to another paint job and more upgrades.

I really need to finish mine.

Really good work.

Paul

[Sultzi]

Thanks!

Small update, got myself a custom radiator core from ceecee.fi, this was reasonable priced also. Size is 450mm x 600mm x 88mm and top of the core is 18fpi and lower part 14fpi. This is because lower part of the core don't get any straight airflow and smaller density core passes air more easily than top of the core which has higher density core to get more heat out where is straight air flow.




Got the trigger wheel from lasercut and machinist made it to fit for the ati damper and made it round from the outer edge too (always small deviation after lasercutting)

[Sultzi]

Hi, small update again..

Trial fitted block and oil pan to the enginebay and noticed that I still need to get the engine down more. So modified rack mounting points to get it around 20mm lower.



And this gives problems with bumpsteering, so this will be sorted with cromoly tie rods and bumbsteer kit. Then I thought why not make new lower and upper control arms too from cromoly and put some gaz gold (already ordered) coilovers to the front. And then this means i can cut those original bumbstops out of the way and make the front axle more "pretty" looking..





LS coil brackets all assembled, just need to find place for them..


Now with modified front axle the engine sits lower and I was able to fit that nice quaife 69g behind the engine. Just needed little cutting from the tunnel, nothing major (already made it bigger last time for the zf gs6-53dz box). Now I can make engine and tranny mounts and after that I will get to make those headers.




Got from Jenvey their ETA2 DBW servo and made mounts to the intake. Works nicely already, just need to tweak the balande rods a little bit later on..



Stay tuned guys..

[Sultzi]

Little progress has been made..

Did receive the clutch finally from Demon Tweeks, they had serious problems to get this, took 4months. Oh and their customer service sucks! So the clutch is Quarter Masters twin disc 7.25" "rally" version with ford 1x23 spline. Should hold 600lb/ft of torque, which is plenty enough for naturally aspirated engine. This rally version has little thicker discs to take more heat.




Got pistons from Ross Racing, these are with 4.030" bore and 1.085" of compression height, dome is 17,3cc which will give around 14.4:1 cr with those 58cc heads. Compression ratio will be little bit lower because I need to make room for the spark plug in the pistons dome.





Engine mounts and gearbox mount done.








Next up headers..

[Sultzi]

Collectors in place, next up is starting to make tubes between them

[Sultzi]

Once again, been a while from last update Small things have been done.

Started to make transitions for the header flanges from square to round pipe. Firstly I bought small wise and welded plate with same opening that exhaust flanges have.



The wise worked perfectly



After all 8 where done friend of mine did some tig welding (all are stainless) and finally we sanded them flat and grinded inside of them to look nice.





I have also been thinking about coilovers to the front to get easier adjustment of the ride height. So bought some piping and plate made of chromoly steel and started to fabricate some tubular control arms for the car to accomodate gaz gold coilovers. Here are the lower control arms been made





Here are upper control arms done


Lower and upper control arms welded ready for first mockup, lower arm still needs tension bar brackerts to be made and I probably need to make that tension bar from scratch also (original one doesn't fit anymore).


All bolted up, also have chromoly tie rods with bumb steer correction




All good so far, wheels seem to have enough space to turn. Shocks are too long, need to buy 1" shorter ones.

Got flywheel made by friend of mine with my own dimensions to work with the engine and quaife gearbox. Weight around 4,8kg with starter ring.




Also got some injectors, Siemens Deka 114961 668cc high impedance and e85 compatible

http://www.siemensdeka.com/product/6...fi114961-60mm/

[beeRS]

Fantastic fabrication here. looking forward to seeing more.

[Mark V8]

Great update

Are you going to run an internally balanced crank ?

[stevieturbo]

All good so far, wheels seem to have enough space to turn. Shocks are too long, need to buy 1" shorter ones.

A re-working of the arms to push the shock further outboard would allow a shock with more travel and if you wanted a more upright shock. The fabrication is excellent, but in some respects a little OTT, especially the bracing on the upper arm which is forcing the shock to move so far inboard.

The arms I made for my much heavier Granada are far less substantial than yours appear and work perfectly fine. I used Protech 2.25"'s on mine and ran them inverted as it made fitment easier, and arguably also makes adjustment easier as the adjusters are now at the top

I tried to keep the shock as vertical in operation as possible to give it the most range of travel. It still isnt perfect by any means though..but then it never will be lol



I also retained the original type of bump stop. I really didnt fancy the entire loadings of a "bump" going through the shock or it's fixings, and with such a heavy car I knew this could happen fairly often in hard use, especially with less then ideal suspension travel.

[Sultzi]

A re-working of the arms to push the shock further outboard would allow a shock with more travel and if you wanted a more upright shock. The fabrication is excellent, but in some respects a little OTT, especially the bracing on the upper arm which is forcing the shock to move so far inboard.

Yeah, everybody has their own ways to do things, this is my way. This isn't a race car so weight ain't a problem, I rather make OTT suspension arms than find myself somewhere hugging a tree or something

Bracing on the upper arm really don't affect the shock position that much, big clearance at the moment. And I like to use the original upper shock mount hole if possible. But oneway to overcome too long shock would be to make new top mount to the subframe, will see.

Probably will cut some excess material of the upper arm (from the point where tubes are welded together) and weld some end plate to cover it, looks a bit stupid now.

Great update

Are you going to run an internally balanced crank ?

Yes, much better way for high rpm n/a (and for everything else too in my opinion).

[Mark V8]

Any updates on this?

I was wondering what your thoughts are on the Chinese intake ?