Cortina MK3 2.8TT

[Sultzi]

Hi, I'm new to this forum, live in Finland and here these mk3 cortina's are pretty rare, only one seen in traffic.

I'm building mk3 2d cortina to be a daily driver at summer's. Chassis is -71 (prefacelift), color Fern Green (color will be the same when this is finish). It has originally 1.3l kent engine () and 4speed gearbox, this will be replaced with 2.8i v6 and 2wd cosworth t5. Rear axle will be replaced to volvo's 1031 axle with Eaton Detroit Truetrac (diff 3.54:1). Why volvo's axle? Because I can buy one for ~90£ and lock costs around 450£. Lock to Atlas would be over 1000£.

Engine is 2.8l cologne v6 with steel rods and forged pistons (don't know yet wich pistons accralite or cp). Camshaft will be specially designed for 2.8 turbo. Engine managment will be Haltech/Tatech/Megasquirt, not sure yet wich one. I have already tried ms in previous project, turbo sierra. Turbo's are garrett gt28r.

Brakes front 283mm 2wd cosworth drilled and grooved vented discs and mondeo calipers. Rear mondeo v6 253mm vented drilled and grooved discs and cosworth calipers. Interested for pedal box, I read that someone here does this conversions to original pedal assembly, am I right? What is the cost? Also needed hydraulic clutch.

Pics can be wound here -> http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/Sultzi88/Cortina/

Give any questions, I try to answer.

PS. my english sucks, so try to deal with it

[robt100]

Sounds like a great project. And your english is good! As someone i know quoted, if you apologise for your bad english it usualy means youve written it quite well.

[Sultzi]

Outside modifications will be only gt grill and lights (with xenon), 1" lowering and 15" alloy rims. I will also put the original roof-rack, only painted to match body color. Also those original "1300" marks stays at the front wings. So this will be Killer, with enough horsepower to leave bmw, evo's and other teen cars behind I think they don't want to tell anyone that they did lose to over 35years old FORD

Oh, the suspension has superflex polypushes and spax adjustable dampers.

[mihakrapez]

Nice project. congrats.



I am building something similar we can exchange some info on our projects.

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...ght=mihakrapez

[Sultzi]

Clutch is 240mm 2wd cosworth made by alcon. WIth 6-paddle plate. This should take 400hp, this maybe needs upgrading after test drive. Ignition will be wasted spark and at the crankshaft 12-1 toothed wheel and vr sensor. I'll but pics when something new happens.

[bortaf]

Sounds sweet
some pics would be nice, in any condition

[Sultzi]

There is a link to pics in my first post!

[sierra1off]

lovely project,

Keep the updates coming

[Sultzi]

I'll put some pics here:

Cleaned those GT grill's lamp roundings


Fixed b&w t5 (new bearings, synchros)


Engine mounts from v6 taunus


Efi manifold from 2.8i scorpio


New steel flywheel, weights 5,5kg. Still missing gear


Chassis in grill


Out of garage after over 10 years


Started to clean underside



More to come when I get lower rear panel welded back.

[Stevie]

looks a good shell you got there

[brettp]

love them in a two door

[Sultzi]

Thanks for your feedback!

Got some new parts today!

New, unused original signal lights! Superb condition as you can see!


With backings also!


Got rear axle today, 1031 from 940 volvo. Just max. 1" from original width!


These should do the job!


Very easy to make disc brakes, because this originally has those already, nice one


Antiroll bar fits like a glow to original ford rear axle, nice one! 16mm thick.


Tell me what you like guys

[Anders Kverneng]

Nice project. Does the T5 fits directly on the v6 with v6 bellhouse?

[Sultzi]

Nope, needs specially made bellhousing. Burtonpower sells one type and I bought mine from frode.

[Sultzi]

Got the rear valance welded to chassis, original ford item!


This is for fuel tank, also filter(s) and pump(s) will be placed in this box, replaces spare wheel.

[Sultzi]

And overall view of my garage at the moment

[Sultzi]

Done also something to cope those double exhaust pipes

[Sultzi]

Some other news for the car.

Got bellhousing last week, thanks to frode! It's from mustang 2 with 2.8l v6 cologne. I'll try to modifide mb w123 clutch cylinder to it, let's see how that works..

Cylinder heads are now at local tuner. He did do a test porting to one intake and one exhaust port. Inlet did flow with 13mm lift and 44,5mm valve @ 300hp. But it go thru the channel at couple of points, so in final heads the flow will stay somewhere 280hv. But should be pretty good for turbo use

[Sultzi]

One guy did make me an surge tank, so pump does get fuel all the time

[Rev Dick Deluxe]

Nice work

I've bookmarked this and i'll be watching closely how you get on fitting that axle as i'll be doing exactly the same thing soon in my mk3.

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...hlight=cortina

[Sultzi]

Thanks.

I have now modified those drive shafts to ford 4x108mm. No need changing bolts to them anymore, has been welded with couple of bits, to ensure that they stay on.

One hard thing is to do those upper arm places to that axle, because the house is cast metall, so welding is pretty tricky. Maybe I do little "bridge" over the gear from bothsides pipes and weld it little bit to that cast housing.. Nobody didn't understand what I just did say, but what the heck 4four link setup would be answer to this problem, but not interested of doing it now.

[Rev Dick Deluxe]

Yeah i understand fully
Something i was thinking of was straightening out the upper links and fitting a panhard rod like they did with the xr6.
I would like to go for a proper 5 link with coilovers but i wont be doing that untill i fit the 16 valve lump next year.

[Sultzi]

Some pics again, let them do the talk for me.







Modified DOHC Sierra's steering to cortinas cross member. Around 2.6 rotations and power steering

[mihakrapez]

Hello,

What is the radiator from?

[Sultzi]

It's from summitracing.

[fordloco]

Very good job

[Sultzi]

Something again, slowly getting there! MAYBE be driveable end of this summer! I really hope so!!

Bought two Simons mufflers, for 2,5" pipe and welded 3" stainless steel outlet to it.


Then I did make brackets to fit them to chassis.


And this is how it looks now, I like this!


Also did get those hub caps from england to those saab rims.


Did modify the original gauge little bit more


cheers.

[Sultzi]

Something new again

Siemens-Deka 630cc injectors


Pistons








cheers..

[Sultzi]

Hi again, something new again!

Haltech Platinum Sport 2000, boost solenoid, 3bar map
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...na/2432009.jpg

Central lockin solenoid in place
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1239042076

Oilcooler, intercooler and radiator bolted
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1239042081

Safety tank bolted on also
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...=242009009.jpg

Couple gauges??
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...=342009001.jpg

Front subframe bushings made from POM
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...=642009001.jpg

And new upper arms and panhard rod
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...=642009003.jpg.

[Stevie]

looking good

[Sultzi]

Hi! little progress again..

Bolted engine block and transmission to chassis. I'll make exhaust manifolds and other fabrication needed before painting engine room
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...1942009003.jpg

With water pump bolted there won't be much space between the radiator, around 30-35mm. So i'll need two small fans to corners of that rad.
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...1942009002.jpg

Need to buy wilwood clutch slave cylinder, to use this fork. It should fit, because it is pull type cylinder.
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...1942009004.jpg

Closer view of the tunnel, fits good.
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...1942009005.jpg

Transmission little of center, don't know why yet
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...1942009007.jpg

Got it bolted to chassic with original x member
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...1942009006.jpg

Little hole needed to do, so back of transmission fitted up enough
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...1942009001.jpg

I'll use this old hole and put some new steel around it
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...1942009008.jpg

Got also seats bolted
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...1042009006.jpg

Also decided finally the final ride heigt, atleast for a start.
http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n...7042009233.jpg.

Slowly getting there

[therealpinto]

Nice work.

Have you checked the front suspension for bump steer? From the pictures it looks like the Sierra steering rack is too long. You want the inner track rod articulation to be in line with the wishbones inner mounts (draw a line between upper and lower mounts, the track rod should be on that line somewhere).

You also generally want the track rod to be parallell with the lower wishbone.

If the rack is too wide, you run the risk of getting toe out during compression, and that will make the car very nervous to drive, especially during braking.

Now, the pictures may of course be misleading me.

Regards

Gustaf

[Sultzi]

Track rod is pretty close parallel with the lower wishbone. I'll check if there is much difference between this sierras rack and cortina's original rack in width. Didn't understand that first thing you said? If i draw a line between upper and lower wishbone inner mounting holes, inner rod joint should be in the same line?? In both ends at the same time?? Or what?

[therealpinto]

It's hard to explain in words;-)



The blue track rod should ideally have it's joints on the green dotted lines, drawn between the upper and lower joints of the wishbones.

In the case of a Taunus/Cortina upright the outer track rod joint is a little bit further out that the sketch shows, so the inner track rod joint can usually be placed a couple of mm outside of the green line with no big problems.

Regards

Gustaf

[Sultzi]

Thanks, this helps! Not checked from the car yet, but you maybe right, it's maybe little too wide and probably will cause some bump steering. I'll find out that later when I get the car running and moving by itself.

[therealpinto]

I would advise to check before you get the car together. Remove the springs and shocks from the front suspension, and lift the suspension through its travel. You can measure the amount of bump steer quite easily.

A couple of mm (measured on the rim) is generally OK.

The problematic Cortina front suspension, with a scrub radius that is too big on standard wheels and huge with wheels with less offset will make any bump steer issues even worse. Couple that with too little castor and you have a recipe for a car that will be very twitchy and nervous to drive. Especially with a rather heavy V6 up front :-(

It's easier to correct any problems now...

Regards

Gustaf

[Sultzi]

Do i need bolt another side to subframe also? I have now on oneside all bolted on, only the spring missing, because i have done some other measurements.. I'll try to check this tomorrow..

[sierra3dr]

oow a Knudsen

This will look supreme when done

[therealpinto]

No, it's enough to check one side for starters. Just make sure the steering rack is centralized (straight forward) and that the initial toe setting is in the right ballpark.

Gustaf

[Sultzi]

Tried to do some measurements today. There is maybe 2mm movement in the hub when lifting it from down to up with jack. And the movement is smaller when it's between both sides of the riding heigth. I intend to use 1" lower blocks at lower damper mounting point, so I get the damper to closer it's working area when this is lowered pretty much. I'll try what the steering says later on, if not happy with it, I'll chance it to something better.. Thanks for the advises!