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Thread: Changing valves and cam

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    Bodger mk2maniac's Avatar

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    Changing valves and cam

    I’m in the process of giving my pinto a birthday and was thinking of changing the valves and cam but only if there would be a gain in power. It’s a 2.4 pinto with a grp1 cam and valves and it’s about 12.1 compression ratio sitting on an all steel bottom end. I’ve been looking at the bf63 cam and Paul Ivey valves but I’m not sure how different the valves are to the ones I have now which are the grp 1 type from burton. Cam wise it says on the burton catalogue that it needs head+pos and piston mods to work ( not sure what the pos bit means) the pistons In the engine now have a 30 thou dish in them so I’m thinking it might be a case of long pad followers and extended ball studs to make the cam fit/work.
    The current setup it’s running now gave me 207bhp@flywheel and 188lbs/ft of torque on split carbs. Ideally I’m hoping for a direct fit without any machining work.

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    Re: Changing valves and cam

    If you have 207 bhp and 188lbs ft of torque on split carbs then you have a bloody good engine, any thing else after that's going to be very small in regards to power.

    Has in another thread some one asked the same question regarding the Burton BF 63 cam, and it's same answer, it's a German GP1 cam with 40 thou more lift.

    If the engine is in a Road Rally car then I see no advantage in you getting anymore power out of it. What you have is good enough, why waste your hard earned money just for the sake of a couple of bhp.

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    Re: Changing valves and cam

    In all fairness it is a tidy engine it’s just a thought of while I’m rebuilding it is there anything that is just to change to make it that bit better without going into machining things for the newer parts to fit. I’ll just check it and rebuild it as normal.

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    Re: Changing valves and cam

    By the sound of the spec of your engine it could be an early Brookes one, he liked to use the German GP1 cam. I know on some of his later builds he went onto Newman cams. There's an old thread on here somewhere by the man from Mossleys Dyno and the owners of couple of cars with engines similar to yours and they were on Newman cams.

    By all means try a BF63 or a GTS3 if your cam's in need of replacing. The biggest problem with swapping to different type cams with the Pinto engine is getting the valve train geometry working correctly. It's a fine balance to get the correct valve lift and the lobe separation angle, seldom does it ever match the cam manufacturers data sheet.

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    Re: Changing valves and cam

    I know the bottom end is the same as the holbay version I’ve spoken to a few engine builders who say it’s a bombproof setup. The head isn’t a brooks one but there is no saying it isn’t a copied version of it except this doesn’t have raised ports.

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    Re: Changing valves and cam

    Im a similar position with my 2.3 pinto that I use for hill climbs and sprints. ive used a gp1 for years and its been super reliable to a point where im bored with it now and I want to take it to the maximum I can get.

    This forum is full of information and from what I have read an been advised by a few engine builders is that big cc pinto's can get away with using a wilder cam that would make a 2.0 very lumpy but will not be lumpy in a 2.4 . from a post on here by RWD ford I read that there is only 1 off the shelf cam that will give the pinto the most bhp figure and that is a GTS4 but is needs more than 12.1cr and needs to be driven above 4000 all the time. The Harris engines use cams from the GTS range & ht1 ht1e cams with great success in their engines too so that may be something to consider if you want the most from the engine. im too old to go and watch road rallying but a friends of mine went to watch our local bro dyfi rally last month and there was a red mk2 competing which was reving to 8k or more, they said it was amazing to watch but he's using a high compression & high lift cam like like a gts7 or ht1e

    As forest rallying quoted the bf63 is similar to a gp1 but with slightly more lift an you probably wont see much rise in power or torque. The head needs to be set up to the cam choice though which is critical as this is what seperates a good engine from an exceptional one
    Last edited by JefferySnow; 07-03-2018 at 10:57.

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    Re: Changing valves and cam

    i had newman grind me a one off p6 cam, got them to add another 10 degrees timing and some more lift, cant remember how much now. we put that in a 2.3, although well beyond peak power it pulled like a train to 8700 where it was still making 175bhp

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    Re: Changing valves and cam

    I’ve spoken to the engine buildaer and he has convinced me to go for the bf63 cam I’m about to order it but can’t remember if he said to get the long pad followers or the standard length ones any help?

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    Re: Changing valves and cam

    It might be better to ask your engine builder that question, after all he's the one that's putting it together.

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