Of course it is a simplification but remember the first post; Not a full on race car. keep the budget sane
:-)
I kind of think you need to start somewhere and by far the easiest way to give an indication of what might "work" for a build like this is boost pressure. Combine that with what Onyd said about how the engine is to be used (don't build a cheap Pinto turbo to tow a heavy trailer in the Alps!) and I that is sufficient for what the poster wants to know.
Keep it reasonably simple, so that you actually get something done and have fun :-)
Gustaf
First post in this thread shows the two types of oil return path behind the oil control ring. Cant link the images directly here
holes = ok
slots = will break
http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=11414
9.85 @ 145mph 202mph standing mile
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ss_c7fML3rw
Thank you for the clarification. It is now clear to me, why is this the weak spot of the OEM pistons.
That's correct, 0,7 bar will give approx 260 Nm (can be lower as 4400 RPM) and 200 Bhp and is just within "save". The lower the boost comes in (small turbo) the faster it will be at the edge. Big turbo's can't push that hard in lower revs and are for one time safer. This does not mean it can't go wrong. It will be boost that kills the piston. Boost means cylinder filing in a correct build turbo engine and more cylinder filling will be harder for the piston.
BTW, the original clutch usual let go round 240 Nm.
It did but it's fairly easy to solve the issue with transit flywheel, cosworth clutch and mt75 gearbox, almost bolt on
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