Sorry, havent taken the pix yet, will do this week. Looking at your pix I can see the difference now.
Attached pics of my Puma setup.
I have a spare backplate which might help.
Have you thought about using a BDA belt tensioner, they are being re-manufactured and are qyuite chunky and solid. Available through Wilcox Engines
That looks like a very reliable system. I especially like the fact that the tensioner pulley bolt tightens to the block rather than to the mounting plate or to a waterpump. That sure looks solid.
I'd have to change my water pump to use that one tough. But that can be done.The blocks are identical. Only the wtr pumps are different and the tensioner set up.
I've now had my waterpump housing surface milled flat to gain more surface area for the puley to push against. And found a more suitable pulley from Audi. This one does not need any studs only the 8mm bolt to tighten it. Or in this case I'm thinking of using stud bolt. This would relieve the allot threads of any stress. And make dure the bolt does not push the waterpump away from the block. This pulley also has a bit larger diameter as a added bonus.
If this set up does not look 100% when put together I'd gladly buy your spare plate. If you'd be willing to sell.
I'm quite frustrated now with this tensioner dilemma taking so much time. I want to install the engine allready
I shold get the bits back from the machine shop today so could take some pic again.
The pulley doesnt bolt direct to the block but to the plate, which is about 8mm thick. The plate is held to the block by three bolts.
Did not get the parts today from the machine shop. So I'll have to wait for the weekend to see how these latest inventions work out.
Did however install the modified cros member. The new one felt a lot lighter than the world cup cros member. Did not have the patience to stop and weight them tough.
P.S
The Golf tensioner pulley was automatic one. No good.
Last edited by Roadsport; 28-10-2009 at 18:47.
Finally got the tensioner thing sorted.
This one is a Audi tensioner pulley with a fixed spacer in the back. This on is a larger than the original or the XU puley so the belts is so tight to fit I needed to slide the belt to the cam pulley grooves to get it on. Maybe it is an avantage IF the pulley should sometimes come loose. Should'nt come loose tough. The stud was tighten with thread locker, I used a lock washer and a lock nut.
Also needed to pass some time in the garage before running into the night. So I took a litle peek how would the engine look when finally done. The trumpets are'nt there to stay. The real ones are a lot shorter. Looks angry tough.
I'm glad the alternator fits nicely too and did not cause any grief with the throttle bodies.
Putting the engine covers on makes it look a little standard. Not so race engine like. But I think I'll leaver the covers on there for that extra protection. Time will tell how long do have the patience to remove the covers to do the check up in the pit between starts.
Last edited by Roadsport; 01-11-2009 at 16:06.
In the third picture above is the water pump milled flat for more surface area and friction for the tensioner pulley.
Last edited by Roadsport; 01-11-2009 at 16:09.
Some update on this weekend.
Finally got the timing done.
It is a nightmare to get it right with the lift @ tdc method. Using three dial gauges it took ten hours to get it right. On saturday!
Somewhere during the epic process I decided to measure wheter the Ford engine timing tool would stop the piston preciselly to TDC. And it did. So finally using the timing tool and now only two dial gauges we got the both cams spot on. Within one hudreds of a millimeter from the lift needed @ TDC.
Now that I've got the timing right I really need to do some markings to aid the basic timing next time around.
And I received the best fathers day Gift ever.
Now, on to installing the engine to the car.
Last edited by Roadsport; 08-11-2009 at 20:27.
After some tinkering and adjusting the engine found its place in the bay.
Had some clearance issues with the oil lines and the oill filter. The filter was hitting the steering coupling. Wich would not be an issue for you UK fellas. Lucky b******s.
Also the scavenge hose and a inlet pipe were compressed between the engine and syeering rack. Raised the box and the engine about an inch or so. Sorted the issues.
Now I need to manufacture the engine and gearbox mounts.
Blimey you're not hanging around now. Engine sits nice in there and will look great once the TBs and exhaust ae bolted on
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Yes the exhaust. That needs to be done first tough. Damn I need to hurry. But I received the collector for the exhaust manifold on friday. I'll order the flange next week. So after the mounts It'll be the exhaust or the wiring.
Made a promise to some friends of mine that the engine will be smoking before new year.
Of course I was very, very drunk at the time
Looking very good matey
Is your bulkhead standard and how much clearance do you get behind the water pipe on the back of the head?
Yes the bulkhead is standard. And the clearance is very tight. Now the water outlet in the back of the cylinder head is about one centimeter away from the bulkhead. But thats enough and I did not need to move my gearbox lenght wise nor modify the propeller shaft. So no modifications other than box and engine mounts.
For your escort project I'd strongly recommend dry sump, perhaps you should go for the Titan one this time , and this RWD water outlet from Paul @ BPJ Services. You should not neet a remote oil filtrer.
Good that you got it so far back then.....I will be very interested to see it from underneath once mounted to see how that Titan system fits relative to the crossmember.
There is no 'perhaps' about me going to a new sump supplier after the last time!
Maybe our Darrian will go 1400 later in 2010........then the Escort can have the 1600cc.....we will see how we get on with it over the next season..........most likley though the Escort will see the 1400cc.
Lowering the rack would allow the engine to be mounted a little bit lower. Or allow more clearance.
But in my case, as I have the suspension lowerded so much, I needed to raise the rack to make the geometry better. Thats why I decided to change the crosmember to a original rather than world cup. So I have some issues clearing the rack. Hence the engine and gearbox raising.
As for the Titan oil pump I may have to modify one oil pipe. But we'll see.
But I can take some pics for you when I get everything sorted.
Last edited by Roadsport; 15-11-2009 at 20:37.
Got the engine aligned today. And the height is at a right level now for the sump and pipes to clear the steering rack.
I needed to remove the oil filter and go witht the remote filter. otherwise the engine could not have been aligned straight. And I want it to be straight. And the added bonus is a bigger oil filter and an take off for a sender.
Pics for you Moggy. Engine now rests on pieces of wood. The plan is to manufacture the engine mounts pretty much in situ and bolt the engine to its current position. Then I'll make the gearbox mount.
In this picture you can see the LH engine mount flange. Between the sandwitch plate and the oil pump. It is to be bolted to the alloy oil pump back plate I have had done earlier. The flange is to be welded on to a rod and then bolted to the chassis.
Thats me cought on film.
very nice
It's deffinately comming together nicely now. Engine looks very nice in there...........stop tempting me!
Thanks Moggy. It now sits nicely in there. Just need a little time to make the mounts now. I'm a bit bummed that I needed to lift the gear box .But I'm very glad that I have raised the prop shaft tunnel. But I reckon the car will still have a lot lower center of gravity than it did with the pinto.
Well ,you have more experience on these engines so you should know how tempting it is to install this engine to a Escort.
Plenty of time for me to decide engines ....just great to see yours getting there.
Very nice, keen to see what power this beast makes.
Looks like you have found a better solution now, but Sandy used an XU tensioner on my engine, and it has been reliable for the season.
The XU tensioner will work better for you than it woul have for me.
See, my tensioner is mounted on to the water pump as yous is mounted to a mounting plate wich is boletd on to the block. The mounting plate has more surface area that the water pumps mounting point.
As the XU tensioners center is only solid around the edges so it would benefit from a larger surface area to tighten against.
That's why had the waterpump housing milled for a larger suface area. And chose to use a tensioner with totally solid cenre.
Also the stud used with the XU tensioner felt a bit odd to begin with
Ah yes sorry, I overlooked the difference between the water pumps.
Reached one milestone again today. The engine mounts are done and painted
Tomorrow once the paint is dry I'll bolt them on and for the first time the engine will hang in the bay on its own.
Then I can have a go at the exhaust manifold. Need to find a flange for it first. But I have cunning plan...
The ECU and the DIY harness should arriwe next week. Just in time for the weekend.
Some progress. Again.
The engine was finally bolted on today. No clearance issues. The trick was to turn the oii inlet aroud. Facing forward. Just need to plumb it around the engine rather that under the engine. Could even lower the engine but the scavenge hoses would rub against the steering rack.
Also started to figure out where to put the oil tank.
Would love to hear some good arguments on whats the right or the best place for it. So far its going in the boot.
Next are the oil lines, the exhaust manifolr and the wiring.
Dry sump tank looks good there but if you wanna see how to fit it up front have a look at Andy Pipes here;
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...=96492&page=15
Looks like you have plenty of room in the bay
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I'm not convinced yet on all the benefits of fitting the tank to the bay. Propably the only reason I can think of in MY
case to but the tank in to the bay would be the retainig of the maximum oil pressure. Its good to have the tank as close to the pump as possible. Boot is far away and I can loose a bit of the pressure.
I did test fit it in the bay. Had no problems to fit it in if I decide to. Was on the eaxhaust side tough. Like Andy's. It's not so tempting to put the oil in to the hottest place in the car. My nose piece is all fiberglass and collision could release a massive oil flood in to the bay and on to the manifold. Scary thought.
The tank isn't in the coolest place now eighter. It's beside the rear mufler and the lines will have to be routed near the exhaus manifold. So not ideal. But It'll give me a better weight distribution. Right rear corner is the best place to place the weight in a LHD car. And the heat can be fought with heat wrap.
Tough if the car gets pushed during the race the tank will most likely be bent.
Added weight do to the longer oil lines is'nt a problem in this build. I already have 80kg's of ballast to get the car to the minimum weight. So any weight gained by the technical stuff can be corrected by loosing some of the ballast.
The throttle bodies went on today.
I'm lucky to have the Focus doner loom. I think the wire housing or rail on the injector connectors make for a very clean install.
The gearbox mount should be sorted every day now so soon I'll start doing the exhaust manifold. Need a new flange tough. Do not want to use the OE flange.
Finally got the gearbox mount done today.
No pics tough. Sorry.
Now I can move on to more interesting stuff like wiring and making the exhaust manifold.
The ECU and wiring loom blank should finally arrive on Monday. So I think I'll start planning that while waiting for the exhaust manifold flange.
one wire at a time, it will all make sense.... eventually
www.gulfpetrolheads.com
Which ECU is that you are using matey?
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