Is it TATECH ?
http://www.tatech.fi/index.php
Is it TATECH ?
http://www.tatech.fi/index.php
Cheers, Tepi
very nice build look forward to updates
Hi moggy
As Tepi above noticed it is a Finnish ECU called Tatech.
www.tatech.fi (also in english)
This latest T6 Pro involves all the functions I need and many more for future updates.
They have a great chrismas sale. And beeing a total greenhorn in engine managements It felt good to go with a native ECU.
When (not if) problems occur I can call directly to the man who invented the whole system.
I can also have the engine mapped by the same guy.
where do you get so much citric acid from?
is it just a battery charger you use for providing the current?
From the local apotechary. Sold in 100g powder bags.
The bags cost approx. 2 € a piece. I use 2-3% solution so two to three bags for every 10 liters of water.
I use a car battery and a normal battery charger just to support the battery. Propably unnecessary tough.
The part you need to de-rust needs to be wired negative and the other misc. metal object you need in the bucket needs to be positive. Object wired positive will corrupt and disolve so do not use anything of value.
Make sure the two wired matals do not get in contact. This obviously will short circuit the battery and it could start a fire.
Safer way is to just use a stronger 3-4% solution with out current. Just takes longer. I prefer this one whenever I have enough time.
Last edited by Roadsport; 17-12-2009 at 07:33.
I bought 99% citric acid from local Agrimarket.
Pig farmers give it to pigs suffering from diarrhea
5 kilos of powder cost something near 20 euros.
Cheers, Tepi
thank you,
looking to dip some parts as sand/soda blasting is messy and can be damaging
also it is a very cheap way of stripping parts, would this disolve paint or would it jus tbe rust?
what would you recommend to clean up a pair of webers?
could i use a dip? or is it a case of some elbow grease and some wire wool?
Got them from Martelius Exhaust from Finland.
www.martelius.com (also in english)
They were not too expensive 74 euros per set of eight.
These tubes are 41,5mm outer diameter with 1,5 mm wall thickness so 40mm inner dia. 180 degrees within 80mm bend.
38mm and 44,5mm outer dia tubes available too. Also available with tighter 180 deg. in 70mm bends.
41.5mm OD with 1.5mm thickness gives 38.5mm ID
always look forward to updates on this, i'm planning a zetec se conversion on my fiesta at some point.
great thread.
if you cant get citric acid you can use a carbonate of soda solution (as i have done in past).
to make carbonate of soda, first make a solution of bicarbonate of soda in a saucepan (3 table spoons from memory) any bicarb / baking soda from asda etc. then boil it. the bubbles coming off are 1 of the carbonates (carbon dioxide?) anyway it leaves a carbonate of soda solution which you mix into a large bucket of water and start the electrolysis with battery etc.
Haven't got much done lately. At this point the progress has seemingly slowed down. Just soo many loose ends.
I spent the whole day in the garage today. And by the looks of things I was only standing around with hands in my pockets. Seems like I really got nothing done.
But I managed to remove most of the old wiring. Could not start to install the new loom since I did not have big enough grommet for it. And did not want to risk damaging any wires.
Sorted out the route for the clutch cable too. Only need to drill the hole for the cable bigger in the bell housing. Only, I do not have a 17.5mm drill bit . But all and all was fun to find out that I can use something old. The Transit van clutch cable was just long enough for this conversion. See this new bellhousing is made in the U.K so the clutch release arm is on the opposite side to my former Pinto and X-flow.
Fitted the oil filter blanking plate today too. It too had to be modified,obviously, to fit the Titan Motorsport sanwich plate. Got it back from the machine shop and now it fits nicely and clears the steering coupling. Now I need to sort the place and plumbing for the remote filter head.
Hope the exhaust manifold flange arrives before christmas so I could start making the manifold during holidays.
Had a look at it today and it looked difficult but possible.
The J- bent pipes fit nicely to the collector I have so thats good news.
Last edited by Roadsport; 20-12-2009 at 21:19.
If you ever get fed up of the project, and want to get it done quickly, then stop, come on here and have a look at grahams fiesta.
Then get back to taking your time and doing a proper job of it.
If i had the patience to build cars to this level id be a very happy man.
Id also be happy if i had off street parking but thats a different story
Yes. Things are looking up again. Gathered some items for the wiring today. Bought the ignition modules needed with this Tatech ECU. And some alloy plate to mount the ECU and ignition modules. Also got the larger grommets today and the protecting "pipes" for the loom.
So as soon as Santa leaves our house I'll rush to the garage and start mounting the ecu and installing the loom
Made the bed for the ECU today.
Cut a hole in to the transmission tunnel and covered it up again with a alloy plate.
The idea is to let the air flow cool the alloy plate down.
The heat from the ignition modules is transferred to the large alloy plate and on to the outside air.
The ECU will be mounted using rubber to insulate it from the body vibrations.
This is not ideal considdering the cooling but I think the overheating is not an issue with the Tatech ECU since the big current is run through the ign. modules. Added bonus in this location is the slight angle of the ECU. This allows any water to flow off the connector rather than laying around it.
Sorted out the loom a bit too. It is quite ready now to be pulled to the bay.
Last edited by Roadsport; 27-12-2009 at 19:14.
Fantastic work so far , and fantastic attention to detail in having it look right too . You'll be swamped in the paddock every race!
By any chance would you know how much lighter the Zetec SE is than the Crossflow?
Thank you Tristan
But 11 years of racing has left little marks on the body and it could use a little ra-spray allready. Its rust free tough, only marks and cover up paints here and there.
I guess the std Sigma would be about thirty to forty kilograms lighter than the std X-flow engine.
On the first page of the Zetec SE topic in the Zetec installations section the Sigma is quoted to weight 82kg's.
But is that with ancilleries or only the long motor?
But in race trim the Sigma would loose weight still even if it is an ultralight engine to begin with. Forged high compression pistons weight the same as the OE ones. And the forged H-beam cons are a bit heavier than the original ones. But lighter flywheel, alloy racing clutch, alloy vernier pulleys and smaller alternator would all give good weight saves. Dry sump would add to this occasion. Loosing the windage tray, removing the oil from the sump and the sump itself would save some weight too. I guess all of these would count for 10kg's or so.
But then again if the original afore mentioned 82 kg's is with power steering pump and A/C compressor the the full race version of it would be even 15 kgs lighter.
Speaking of weight saving, the small oval hole exhaust flange arrived today.
Made out of two millimeter thinner iron than the original 10mm thick one (below in the pic). And we left out the heat shield mounts too.
This should give some weight saving. The areas marked in black may still be drilled for extra weight saving. I think the holes are originally meant to cool down the cylinder head. Everything counts .
I am in awe of your patience!
The electrics finally made their way to the engine bay today. Ecu is now bolted on as are the ignition modules.
This electronics bit is not my favorite part of this built. Hope to get it over with and back to the more mechanic bits. Building the exhaust manifold. Still a lot to do with the wiring tough. But it really seemed to take a step forward today.
Could not work on the loom today so I started making the exhaust manifold.
The flange lines perfectly with the exhaust ports. Very happy with it.
Made these 2" long oval tubes to mimic the shape and size of the exhaust port. Not perfect but came pretty close.
That's the start. Next step is to make the primary tubes and weld them over these smaller "take off" tubes.
looks neat , and with the new pipes welded on over those stubs , you should have no issues with gas reversion . What are you making it out of? Will you be getting it coated?
I've been making it out of plain cheap iron.
I will be getting it coated. I'm not a fan of the rusty look you get so fast with iron without propper finishing.
Originally thought of spraying it myself with black satin but
the fella who coated my pistons volunteered to coat it with some sort of ceramic coating. Acting much like the Thermotec heat wrap.
Last edited by Roadsport; 02-01-2010 at 20:45.
It keeps just getting better mate! well done buster.
One down (almost, still need to turn it left a little to align with the exhaust pipe) three to go.
The position of the collector is not ideal as sits a bit below the x-member level and is the lowest point of the car .
So I need to stay between the white lines (little more) from now on...
looking good mate, this is always a cracking thread to read
There's so much time measuring and tweaking and thinking in exhausts isn't there? I made a few and you would just wonder where the hours go..
So far the exhaust system has gone fluently. But I've now only done the easy bits.
The following three primary pipes should be more challenging.
This project has been the most time consuming build yet. There are now off the self solutions for this one so very much customisation needed. Luckily most of the engine parts were available on order or off the shelf.
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