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Thread: Escort Sigma 1600 Race Car

  1. #201
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    DIY mani

    Got the second primary pipe done today. This one was not fluent in any way. The first version came out too short and went to the bin.
    Now the manifold is starting to take shape so I hope the third one can be assembled on the floor rather than in the engine bay. Easier on the back if nothing else.




  2. #202
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Third done.
    Was faster to make than the second since it could be assembled in the bench.




  3. #203
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    Re: DIY mani

    good stuff. that looks very neat

  4. #204
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    Re: DIY mani

    great job, looks brilliant

    www.gulfpetrolheads.com

  5. #205
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Thanks guys!
    I really hope it works propperly too.

  6. #206
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    Re: DIY mani

    Top notch . How are the lenghts working out evenly for you? Where'd you get the funky looking extractor?

    a cylinder head question now... what was the standard Ford ports like? nice shape , smooth and with a nice transition to the valve seats , or were they badly finished?

  7. #207
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Quote Originally Posted by Tristan View Post
    Top notch . How are the lenghts working out evenly for you? Where'd you get the funky looking extractor?

    a cylinder head question now... what was the standard Ford ports like? nice shape , smooth and with a nice transition to the valve seats , or were they badly finished?
    Getting them even is the tricky part. But now the three pipes are all within 5mm from each other. So close enought for me.
    Can't really be absolutely sure about the lenghts and differences of the primaries since it's quite tricky measuring them 100% accuratelly. But the little stubs welded on the flange allow me to fine tune the lenghts a little. After all the pipes are done. If I need a pipe to be longer I'll just slide a spacer ring between the primary pipe and a flange. A little like I did with the third pipe.
    Also made sure the primaries all run straight for about 10cm or so before they go in to the collector. This allows me to shorten the primaries If needed in the RR session.



    It is a custom made extractor for this set up. I've had it made cause that's the bit I can't do myself.

    The ports are fairly good. Most of the work needs to be done around the valve seat area and the seat itself. I guess the ports mainly need cleanig up a bit. Not sure tough I'm not an expert come to cylinder head modifying. I had my headmodified by an expert. You can retain original valves and tappets for up to very high stage of tune.
    Last edited by Roadsport; 07-01-2010 at 22:39.

  8. #208
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    Re: DIY mani

    Thats very clever thinking leavin all the pipes straight before the extractor.

  9. #209
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    That clever idea got a minor set back today as I made the fourth pirimary pipe. The final tube could not be made with the 10 cm straight section. The pipe would have been too long and the bend would have been too tight . The straight section is only 7 cm on this final one. So that leaves me the possibility to shorten the manifold by 5cm without much effort.

  10. #210
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    It's now done. For now. Or atleast I thought it was.
    Learned today that I had made the measurements all wrong. I had misunderstood the starting and the ending points. So now I need to modify the manifold a whole 7(ish)cm shorter
    But I guess that's what happens when you don't know what you are doing.
    And after all its only a little nip and tuk job before I get the seams TIG welded.


    Last edited by Roadsport; 08-01-2010 at 18:10.

  11. #211
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    Re: DIY mani

    where do you have to lose the 7cm? Vertically or laterally?

    Bet you let loose a few choice words when you found that...

  12. #212
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Quote Originally Posted by Tristan View Post
    where do you have to lose the 7cm? Vertically or laterally?

    Bet you let loose a few choice words when you found that...

    The overall lenght of each pipe will have to be shorten by 7 odd cm's. Need to measure it again myself to be sure.
    I'll tweak the fourth pipe a bit and cut the straight sections shorter from the top/ start of the pipe and shorten the straight parts before the extractor.
    This will move the manifold closer to the engine and the extractor closer to the x-member.
    Need to put a heat shield sleeve on to the clutch cable.

    And yes I cried like a baby and took out a rope and started to look for a strong branch.

    No , seriously I was pissed but after all it should not bee such a tough job.
    Last edited by Roadsport; 08-01-2010 at 20:19.

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    Re: DIY mani

    looking great, carnt wait to see how get on with it!

  14. #214
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Quote Originally Posted by wide ka View Post
    looking great, carnt wait to see how get on with it!

    Thanks Al.

    No progress during the weekend.
    I wisited Switserland to pick up a puppy and it all turned out a travelling nightmare.

  15. #215
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Some updates.
    The manifold was finished today. Now its precisely the lenght it should be. Finally.
    The appearance did not change much. But that is the final version in the pics. Now to get the seams TIG welded and to get it coated. Not sure which coat to apply tough.

    The wiring took a step forward today too. Sorted the ground wires and the ignition module wiring. Also did the wiring for the COP's. Turned out quite nice if you don't mind me saying.




  16. #216
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Also...




  17. #217
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    Re: Also...

    Quote Originally Posted by Roadsport View Post


    Noooo!!!!!

  18. #218
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: Also...

    I'm still with you on this one Moggy. Don't be afraid. Only thinking that there's a nice space to fill there. Maybe fot the futureb elt driven charger.... or more likely a place for the alternator in the evo two set up.
    I'm already working on mounting the reservoir to the boot. It's going to sit quite high tough and the oil migration will propably be an issue.
    Don't want to isnstall the reservoir on the sides of the boot where the spare wheel and the original fuel tank were. This easy to clean Pace tank will easily open up under impact. A little kiss in the competition and I'm always out of the race. So in the middle of the boot is the place for the tank for me. Atleast the oil will drain easily down to the oilpump so it will always be available.

    Maybe I could install a valve of some sort to plug the oil line during long parking period. The valve should be elecrical to cut of ignition when oil line is shut to prevent the engine to be fired up without lubrication.
    Last edited by Roadsport; 17-01-2010 at 21:01.

  19. #219
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    Re: Also...

    [QUOTE=Roadsport;1658972]I'm still with you on this one Moggy. Don't be afraid.
    I'm already working on mounting the reservoir to the boot. QUOTE]

    Good man. We have major oil migration issues......I have a swith which isolates the ecu so we can crank the engine without it firing or fueling whilst the pump empties the crankcase.

  20. #220
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: Also...

    Yes I'll need that too at least. But what about if the engine is literally filled with oil. Won't cranking it do any harm?
    The oil should not find it's way past the piston rings on to the pistons so it should not be able to bend the rods.

    How much higher than the pump is your oil tank?
    Last edited by Roadsport; 17-01-2010 at 21:29.

  21. #221
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    Re: Also...

    tank is much higher than the pump......almost all the oil migrates back to the crankcase when not in use.....we just pump it out, only takes a few seconds.

    What crossmember are you using? We are collecting parts for our car now and are trying to decide what crossmember to get.....the engine will be chassis mounted like yours and have the same make of sump. The car will be more or less standard height so I don't think we need to go for a lowered rack (unless it's for clearance).

  22. #222
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: Also...

    By pumping do you mean cranking the engine without firing it. Cutting the spark or better yet fuel? Cranking the engine without spark would still drive fuel to the cylinders thus aiding the oil dilution.

    You can use both crossmemers. Both high and low rack will clear but dry sump pan is needed.
    Mine clears the member and the bonnet. But the COP coil just barely hits the strut brace (no problems if you use normal leads). So need to adjust it a bit. I used the std height rack mounts since my ride height is so low. The lower rack crossmember would have put my steering rods in an aqward position facing upward. And at this moment did not fancy modifying the rod ends.
    I used the Escort std (non WC) crossmember. Now the steering rods are quite level with the TCA's so I'm quite happy with that. I only cut away the engine mounts. The engine is fastened to the chassis.
    If you are running near std ride height, I propably would go for the lower rack xmember. This way the engine can sit just that much lower .

    There are some xmember pics on page 3 of this thread.
    Last edited by Roadsport; 24-01-2010 at 18:40. Reason: pic tip

  23. #223
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    Re: Also...

    Yes we have a switched power supply to the ECU, so no fuel or sparks whilst cranking. Once the sump is empty, we give the ECU power and then fire it up.

    I thought the low rack mount crossmember was mainly for cars with increased ride height...like forest car?

  24. #224
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: Also...

    Quote Originally Posted by Moggy View Post
    I thought the low rack mount crossmember was mainly for cars with increased ride height...like forest car?
    When you lower the car the crossmember sits closer to the ground, while the tyres of course remain on the ground. This will alter the steering rod angle. Having the rod ends higher than the rack itself will affect the seering geometry. Mounting the rack even lower on the xmember will make things worse. One could of course modify the steering arms in the uprights to compensate.
    The same thing could happen when increasing the ride height. And this time lowering the rack would help with the steering geometry. So propably is intended for the forest stage cars in the first place.

    How much lower is the lower rack mount? Mounting a Pinto one or two centimeters lower makes sence but does it make any real difference with the sigma engines?
    However if I was to do it all again I'd go for the lower rack and modified steering arms (if I was not as lazy as I was the first time around) .

  25. #225
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: Also...

    Picked up the eaxhaust manifold from the welder today. The primary tubes are all TIG welded now.
    And they came out great. If anyone from southern Finland happens to be reading this I can strongly recommend the Lakesteel's services (www.lakesteel.org) . The service was super fast, top quality job and very reasonably priced
    I'll finish up the manifold this week and take it over to be coated.

    Shortened to the right lenght and welded.



    Dont need to clean up these welds!

    Last edited by Roadsport; 25-01-2010 at 21:27.

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    Re: Also...

    that looks really good .

  27. #227
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    Re: Also...

    Quote Originally Posted by Tristan View Post
    that looks really good .
    It does doesn't it. The guy really knew his business.

  28. #228
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    Re: Also...

    You really need to put a 'welding porn alert' on this thread
    http://escort.accelerator.org
    1968 MK1 Escort 1300GT
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    And other junk I don't like to talk about!

  29. #229
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    Re: Also...

    excellent progress, whats left to be done?

  30. #230
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: Also...

    Quote Originally Posted by Dazzabhoy View Post
    excellent progress, whats left to be done?
    The wiring wiil need to be finished. Oil lines are under work, petrol lines need to be made and the radiator and water lines are still to be done.
    I'm still missing the racing gearbox but I'll get it running and RR'd with the std box.

  31. #231
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    Re: Also...

    is the exhaust Stainless Steel ?

  32. #232
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    Re: Also...

    cool, least theres not too much left to do,

    when are you hoping to have the car ready? wouldnt mind seeing some vids when its all finished

  33. #233
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: Also...

    Quote Originally Posted by Tristan View Post
    is the exhaust Stainless Steel ?
    No, it's mild steel. I'm taking it to be coated tough. So hopefully it will not get the oh so pretty rusty coating. And the coating doubles as a heat wrap.

  34. #234
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: Also...

    Quote Originally Posted by Dazzabhoy View Post
    cool, least theres not too much left to do,

    when are you hoping to have the car ready? wouldnt mind seeing some vids when its all finished
    Car has to be ready by June when the season starts. But I'm hoping to get it done and set up way sooner. Would be nice to do some practice runs. I've been out of the car for a year now and my wrists may be a little stiff.

  35. #235
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Finished the metal work on the manifold today. Welded the primary tubes to the flange. Welded on the thread for the lambda sensor. And added a piece of tube to the collector to connect it to the exhaust pipe.
    And added the hooks for the springs to keep the primaries from sliding out of the collector. I was thinking of using locking wire instead of springs tough
    All ready to be coated now.




  36. #236
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Here is a pic of the manifold connected to the exhaust pipe I took while at the garage.
    Does not look restrictive at all

    Note the spark plug for the afterburner effect.

  37. #237
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    Re: DIY mani

    A pair of stiff springs works for me on my sliding joint , in the forest rallies... but maybe a lockwire with a slight bit of slack in it too?

  38. #238
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Slide joint? Why does it need to slide ? Is it a rally thing I've not heard of ?
    Cant see why does it have to? My only goal is to keep the primaries tight all the way in the colector thus preventing any leaks. I was originally thinking of spot welding it on. But decided to keep it removeable if I were to try out different lenghts of primaries. Only flexible part in the exhaust systems are the mounting rubber bushes. Well if it needs to slide I can teel from the broken wires.

    I took the manifold to be coated today. We decided to do two layers of cheramic coating on it. The insides will be coated wtih highly insulating cheramic. And the outside with less insulating, more corrosion resistant more attractive silky matt gray cheramic. Both can handle over 1100C of heat. Should be ready in week or so.
    Last edited by Roadsport; 29-01-2010 at 16:00.

  39. #239
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    Re: DIY mani

    Sliders with heavy springs to allow the tiny high frequency vibrations of the engine especially at high revs......therefore avoids cracks. Don't slide as such, just allow the little movements.

  40. #240
    Racer Decade Plus User Roadsport's Avatar
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    Re: DIY mani

    Quote Originally Posted by Moggy View Post
    Sliders with heavy springs to allow the tiny high frequency vibrations of the engine especially at high revs......therefore avoids cracks. Don't slide as such, just allow the little movements.
    I'd say wires will allow that too. No matter how tight I twist them thery will not be totally solid. Never been a fan of these dodgy springs I hate putting them on and taking off. Even tough I need to do it next to never I thought I'd try a shortcut this time. If the wires do not work or cope with the vibrations I'll reluctantly go back to springs.

    Hows your engine doing?

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