You can do that, it will work.Originally Posted by Roadsport
No public engine development recently.....unless you count an oil change
Clutch was destroyed on last event, so have ended up with an EXTREMELY modified belhousing/slave cylinder arrangement. Just waiting for the paddle plate to arrive then it's all back together. next events are 28th Feb and 7th March.
Have you decided on the Escort xmember yet? Is Jon doing the engine allready?You can do that, it will work.
No public engine development recently.....unless you count an oil change
Clutch was destroyed on last event, so have ended up with an EXTREMELY modified belhousing/slave cylinder arrangement. Just waiting for the paddle plate to arrive then it's all back together. next events are 28th Feb and 7th March.
No and no.
My car is FWD , so the rock of the engine tries to stretch the system where the manifold meets the system . That's why I have a sliding joint .
That makes perfect sense. If the HCS tilts backwards it pulls the manifold and rest of the exhaust system. To get the same effect in a RWD car the engine needs to pull itself forward. Which is pretty impossible in any significan degree.
Yup! Thank feck! The only reason I suggest a sliding joint for you is so there's no forward and rearward pull on the manifold , while you are braking hard or accelerating hard .
Backward and forward motion forces also apply to the exhaust pipe. So that in theary should not create pull on opposite directions between manifolod and exhaust. Right?
But accelerating hard would try to pull the exhaust pipe further away from the manifold and engine if the mounting rubber bushes are too soft. I think the springs are a better allround solution(propably thats why their beeing used). I just do not like them. I'll try the wires and see how that works out for me. It should be safe to try. The wires are supposed to snap before any damage gets done to the mani. Its a quick fix if the wires snap or loosen up.
I was thinking out loud mate , that's all . If you do fit springs , I suggest not having them tight against the pipe , I put mine about 5mm out and the heat hasn't harmed them . And They are ordinary pull springs , not high temp ones . I used the ball thing from the ball and socket you'd see in most Hatchback car boot struts , and welded them to the pipe . The Eye of the spring fitted nicely over the ball .
Got my oil tank in place now and I'm gathering all the parts needed for the oil lines. A question came up.
Can I use the these Aeroquip hose fittings with regular fabric enforced, non steel braided, hose?
Will these tear the non steel braided hose? Or tre they ment to tighten against the steel braiding?
To answer my own question. It turns out ...no.Got my oil tank in place now and I'm gathering all the parts needed for the oil lines. A question came up.
Can I use the these Aeroquip hose fittings with regular fabric enforced, non steel braided, hose?
Will these tear the non steel braided hose? Or tre they ment to tighten against the steel braiding?
No it doesn't tear the non steel braided hose , or no , they're not meant to tighten against the steel braiding?
The regular rubber hose has too thick walls to fit into the aeroquip or goodridge hose fitting. Therefor you have to use the push on hose fittings with the textile reinforced rubber hoses. Just like they say.
Also tried to save a few quids by using hydraulic hose from the near by shop to do the plumbing. But it turns out hydraulic hoses can't take the heat or are way too stiff for oil lines.
Did not give up that easily and found a Gates oil hose to be both heat resistant and flexible enough for the job. I now have asked for a quote on both hoses. The bespoke dry sump oil line hose and the gates oil hose.
P.S
Learning plumbing the hard way really sucks. Trial and error method really gets expensive...
Too big hose fittings or wrong type of hose anyone?
The lesson in this again is that that's what happends when you don't know what you are doing.
p.s.s
Plumbing sucks!
Last edited by Roadsport; 06-02-2010 at 08:04.
Now the visible part of the engine bay wiring is done. Rest of it will pretty much bee hidden under the tb's and in the cabin.
That looks really neat . yet serviceable!
Thanks. I'm really happy with the way the injector wiring worked out. The block housing the wires gives a nice clean look.
Only negative thing about the wiring proces so far has been the lack of second knock sensor. I originally wanted to use two sensors but the ECU I chose does not allow it.
Excelent Job
Some minor updates whilst the epic plumbing and wiring battle still rages on. I mean seriously this has been an epic tale of trial and error. But a wise man once told me that falling on your face is still moving forward. It's Painflull and slow tough.
Right. Finally found the right stuff and a right dealer to get the plumbing goods for the oil lines. Thank you Moggy! I now have the right type of hose ends and have ordered the right type of hose for the suction and return llines.
The exhaust manifold is ready. So having it mounted on the engine will help me figure out the correct route for the oil lines. Manifold has two different coatings. Highly insulating cheramic coating (pale) on the inside and corrosion resistant (dark) cheramic on the outside. The idea is to keep the exhaust gasses hot and the engine bay temperature low. And avoid the rusty look.
Finally finished the oill plumbing today
Well almost anyway. I still need to plumb the remote oil filter but the main lines are done!
Did not exactly take note of that rule of thumb of makint the hose runs as short as possinble. I think I installed the longest hose I possibly can without macing any coils
But that is the best solution in this installation and with the Titans oil pump.
That reeturn line especially looks too long without the radiator. But the hose must go around the radiator so Itl'' hopefully look right after the rad installation. Or if it doesn't I can shorten it by an inch or so.
I decided to lift the oil tank out of the original fuel tanks well. I've had both me rear quarters pushed in during races and adding an oil tank to that equasion would equal a mean mess. Now I'm risking oil migration tough but that is something I can live with
P.S
Don't you just love it when things come together.
P.P.S
I love plumbing
Good work.....It's no fun pushing those hoses onto the fittings is it mate! I hope you wern't cursing me for the recommendation.
I squirted some engine oil on to the fittings and they slided in a little too easily. Did not feel very reliable. I might add some clamping just to be on the safe side. Then again here isn't any real pressune in the hose. These hose ends are not genuine Aeroquip fittings tough
I have pushed some An-10 fittings on a dryhose without lubricants and that was a pain. Took me two hours to push the fitting in to the hose. It was stuck in the half way until i warmed it up with hot water.
Last edited by Roadsport; 03-03-2010 at 19:27.
Read through the thread but couldnt find any info, what flywheel are you using and where did you get it from?
I have bought my fly from BPJ Services. Very similar to Formula Ford Flywheel. 4.5 kg's and takes 184mm clutch.
You can get one from Bpj Services or Skyford or pm Vxlgsi in this forum.
Ok thanks for that.
I ordered one from TTV race components in January, they are a nightmare to get hold of, and I still havent got it, but they are "expecting to despatch" next tuesday.
Found a possible major set back today.
We were doing the wiring and found a direct connection between the ecu main power feed and the sesors grounding wires!
Seems like a short circuit within the harnes itself. The harness was not connected to any sensors or modules and still I was able to get a clear reading between a ground pin and the main power pin.
Am I missing something or am I looking at a shot circuit here?
I'll contact the Tatech staff and let them know of my findings.
The harness issue is now sorted.
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...in-the-harness
The exhaust pipe is finished too. 3" all the way from front to back with one muffler.
And I finally found the injector pocket plugs for the cylinder head. Thank you Shawspeed!
I've been a bit distracted from the project lately. But I have managed to get something done.
Finished up the engine wiring today. Not very visible update tough. Still need to sort the the fueling, air filter, radiator and gearbox and I can have a go at fireing it up.
Modified and fitted the throttle linkage too. Does not show in the pics tough. The cable will be routed around the bodies to the linkage below.
Still need to decide what to use for fuel lines? Any suggestions?
I need to finish the fueling and air filter soon. I'll be ordering the racing box shortly and the engine needs to be removed for a while. So would be nice to sort the fueling and filter before the box arrives.
Finished engine bay loom.
This is the only visible update. The wires for the sensors.
Still need to do some sorting out.
Last edited by Roadsport; 21-03-2010 at 20:25.
really really tidy.
Can I ask you about your cams... how are the pulleys held on?
Thanks for the compliment. I'm happy with it too. Still need to sort the wires in the cabin tough.
They are held in place with the STD bolt and the locking pin that came with the kent cams pulleys. There's a pic of the pullays and pins in the first pages of the thread.
Last edited by Roadsport; 23-03-2010 at 10:16.
ah. I stripped my project Sigma last night , and was stunned to see the OE pulleys held on to the OE cams , with no key , slot , taper or pin!
Its the same on the crank pulley too.
fuppin hell! Do they ever slip Jason?
Most defanately if not torqued to spec!
This is the way with these modern engines. Its the exact same thing with the famous highly tuneable Duratec HE. It only gets mentioned next to never with the D-tecs.
I had my crank and pulley machined to have key and a key way in them. Do to the massively indreased forces created by the uber HD valve springs. And for that extra peace of mind.
Last edited by Roadsport; 23-03-2010 at 21:05.
Heres a pic of the key way'd crank and pulley
Cheers for posting that Pic again , I knew I'd seen it somewhere.
I ordered the gearbox today
It should arrive in txo weeks.
Excellent! Retail therapy!
After the easter I realised I need to be in a starting grid in two months
Worked on the wiring again today and now the alternator and starter have their wires. So every wire in the bay is now done. That means the engine can come out to have the new gear box attached. Has not arrived tough but should be arriving this week
I still need to plumb in the remote oil filter and make threads and an adaptor for the coolant temp senders. When the engine goes back I'll need to sort out the air filter but I can fire the b**tard up without it. At this point I'd even risk racing without one. After all I've been racing for eight years without one.
I guess the main issue still are fuel lines. Whitch I tackled today. Made a make shift surge pot that needs to go the welder to bee welded together and have the outlets inserted. I think I'll make the lines with rubber fuel hose.
Took some baby steps towards the fire up today. Its begining to feel like I'm getting really close.
Made the adaper for the coolant temp sender for the ECU. Found a suiting Valencia thermostat housing with a threaded water take off. A quick fix with a hacksaw and its all ready for the inner threads to suit the sender. This minor thing was a big relief for me. I was afraid I need to have some special adapter made for the sender. This could have taken a lot of time I don't have. So a small step for man but....
The other little thing bothering me was the injector pocket blanks. The blanks arrived from Shawspeed and were a perfect fit. So another relief there.
Sorry for the lousy pics. My camera is broken at the moment.
Also got the connectors for the water hoses today. So I could start installing the radiator. The lower radiator brackets are now done. The upper beam and the hoses need to be made. But again, a crucial step towards the goal.
The good thing about building everything from the scratch is you can desing everything yourself. The bad thing obviously is the huge ammount of time it seems to take me to do it.
The problem with the radiator from a Sierra I used with the Pinto was that it covered the whole face of the engine bay. Leaving no proper fresh air feed for the allready air starved carburators.
So this time I used higher and shorter radiator to allow a good flow of fresh air for the TB's . This rad has a little less surface area than the Sierra one but has denser cell. I hope with a propper big fan It is enough to keep the engine cool.
Then again all alloy smaller displacement engine should not be so prone to overheating. Right? We'll see.
This is how things looked at the end of the day.
P.S
The SL72, and the air filter + backplate should arrive next week. So more baby steps to come.
Last edited by Roadsport; 11-04-2010 at 18:53.
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