Side project: Thanks Mr Wilcox for the idea.
So, this is on an Aussie forum too. A mate told me you Brits would appreciate it!
Bottom line: I cant work on my Mk1 Escort at the moment (on which im doing an engine swap), and i needed a small project that i could work on in my little inner suburban flat. I was drooling one day over Mr John Wilcox's engine stands he has for sale, and it gave me an idea: Why not make one!
Goal:
- make an engine stand to practice my backyard fab skills that I can employ on the Escort.
- be as resourceful with materials as possible
Part 1.
The stands Wilcox sells for the Crossflow and BDA engines picks up at the engine mounts. This design is well suited to me as it is very compact, and would allow for me to transport my engine to and fro places in the boot of my hatchback.
So I got started, basically cutting some 30mm square tubing with a 3mm wall thickness left over from a friend's construction project. Engine mounting plates were 5mm mild steel plate.
I wanted to use the TIG as much as possible to continue to hone my skills on it.
The pictures speak for themselves- the design is simple, strong and effective. At 3mm wall thickness with a 100kg engine mounted, there is no deflection in the stand.
Hot Tip: Dont walk into a local hardware store to buy a can of Red Enamel spray paint whilst wearing a dark hoodie and beanie. The owner is almost guaranteed to think you're about to graffiti something.
Bolts right up to the engine block no-problemo.
Cost: A sixpack of tinnies (albeit craft beer) for the steel, a cup of tea in exchange for the engine mounting bolts and $14 for the can of Red Enamel.
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Re: Side project: Thanks Mr Wilcox for the idea.
Part 2.
So, well.....one week later.....still I am unable to work on the car.
Thought process: Current Engine stand is great. But, thanks to a chap on this forum from who'm I obtained an all steel Vegantune VTA....I'd really like a rotating engine stand.
I figured...maybe buy one? Nah...where's the fun in that? and they are also too big for my workspace.
So why not....build yet another stand.
So sketches were made, more scrap tubing was cut, stripped of mill scale and tigged. Rotating assembly was, undecided on...i figured id cross that bridge when i came to it.
Results at the end of the day were half decent. Basically the entire frame is mild steel with a 3mm wall thickness. The Rotating portion will mount to the top of it via a bolted connection. Where the bolts are located, i used some scrap 3mm steel to make some reinforcement plates that I welded on. This yields a 6mm wall thickness...which should be strong enough
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Last edited by Schaloupka; 17-08-2018 at 00:39.
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Spanner Monkey
Re: Side project: Thanks Mr Wilcox for the idea.
nice welding capabilities over there...
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Re: Side project: Thanks Mr Wilcox for the idea.
As I mentioned on the other forum, neat welding, but I forgot to ask, What TIG are you using?
Need to buy one, get some lessons and practice practice practice.....
Thanks, Shaun
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Re: Side project: Thanks Mr Wilcox for the idea.
Thanks folks!
The top rotating assembly is completely from 316 marine Stainless. My girlfriend's dad and my old man had various scraps of it that i cut up with the angle grinder.
Basically it is a 1 inch diameter bolt with a 200mm shank that will sit within a tube with an Inner Diameter of 27mm and a 3mm wall thickness. This bolt will have a plate welded to the end of it which mounts to the engine block. Therefore by rotating the bolt you rotate the engine block. When the desired position is achieved, it be fixed with a set screw.
Should be beasty enough. The stainless plates within which the tube is fixed is all 7mm plate.
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Once I have it all properly lined up, I'll tack it and weld it. More pics to follow!
@ MKDU Thanks man, I appreciate it!
@ Shaun. I was lucky enough to use a Fronius Magicwave 2200 for this project. Although, I've done equally as good if not better on my trusty Miller Maxstar 150 caddy (They rock!)
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