Also the transmission losses are much more with an rx8 box due to increase gear tooth profile
Also the transmission losses are much more with an rx8 box due to increase gear tooth profile
Fair enough
But for clarity they are only very slightly heavier and very slightly larger than a type 9 ( I have both). Cable clutch option available. 5 helical close ratios and a usable 1st gear for town.
Shame about the big teeth I guess 😄👍
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I think what you gain in having 5 decent ratios you lose in weight and transmission losses. I will be making an Rx8 carbon prop to fit type 9 - English tho, for my Mk1 and Mk2
I picked up two on eBay for £40, just need a couple of joints
for a road car as long as its not dogs or straight cut it will be fine,the mx5 box is another left field option,
although is a new helical bgh not in the £800 region so not much more than a conversion.
Yeah I have a straight cut dog box in my Mk2 hillclimb car. £1300-2000 for a close ratio with heavy duty synchros and bearings
Tran X 5speed. Yeah steel baulk rings
My build, which is very near completion, is almost identical to yours mechanically. Just for reference, I kept the original tunnel as my shell is a Mexico and really didn’t fancy chopping it too much but if your using a Retroford cast sump with original cross member, you will need to use one smaller engine mount so the gearbox doesn’t hit the top of the tunnel. Then the sump hits the rack, so I had to lower the rack around 10mm for clearance.
I had my type 9 built by Quaife and thought it nice to have the alloy lid, wrong choice as this made the gearbox too high again.
Thanks for the info, I have a gearbox tunnel riser plate
lovely pair of motors
looking forward to the build
Nice..
I wondered what your MK2 looked like.. Forest arches rather than Tarmac, looks nice..
Yeah I’ve always preferred Forest arches....below the swage line
Oooft, controversial, I thought about arching the Mk1 but really liking the clean Twincam look on steels
This'll be a belter mate! Well need to take a wee drive in our Escorts once you get it finished up!
Front end starting to go back together, ended up replacing the upper bulkhead, heater bubble and fitting a big tunnel. Also had new strut tops, front crossmember, complete front panel, chassis gussets, wings, rear arches and rear panel, still amazed how good the floors a posts etc are. Will be soda blasted underneath before paint.
Last edited by Erikmex; 25-10-2018 at 14:40.
Im amased at how good the floor is on this car, ended up replacing the drivers side front floor pan as it was slightly pitted, also did the upper bulkhead and heater bubble and replaced the centre rear boot floor with a new panel as the original was a bit pitted and thin when the rear panel was welded on. Front wings are just held on with self tappers at the mo, to be removed to have the inner wings/under arches soda blasted, then will be spot welded on. Dash panel will also be blasted and sprayed satin black.
Last edited by Erikmex; 16-02-2019 at 11:30.
Soda blasting doesn't really remove rust I had to blast mine with a fine media
Its worked great so far, its not really rust, just loose paint and fine surface rust, much gentler to the steel than grit, less heat generated too, not looking to remove much material just a nice clean surface prep for epoxy priming, less labour than doing by hand.
Aye have used both on my mk2 and if you use crushed glass it gives best of both worlds removes rust and leaves panels with a nice surface finish
I didnt really need much abrasion to clean up this shell, it came from Malta, one of the best Mk1 shells ive seen in a while, someone had painted the underside in red lead at somepoint and it really protected it, the red paint you see on the floors is how it came. Its just a bit scaley in some of the hard to access place that would be a pain to prep by hand, blasting makes light work of it.
wow thats looking great
Im amazed at how clean it is after blasting, its an early 68 car too, everything in those photos is original with the exception of the boot floor section between the chassis legs which we replaced as there was some minor rust.
Lucky boy 👍
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just wondering here how people with big powerful engines in the base model cars tackle the body moving on the chassis issue?
i recall my first car ('72 1300) the body twist was noticeable when i was turning hard corners.
OK, OK. Yeah its a monocoque. I just call it body and chassis regardless...Which as a designer in Automotive isnt best practice!
Oh and thanks Graham! Now i have to add a cage to my list....
Lots of bracing, fab work, gussets, cage, seam welding..................
Google image search some Escort Group4 shells and you'll see some of the fab work that goes into them for competition, this car is just going to be a fast road car so has only had some minor bracing work and axle location, enough for the sort of power and grip levels im aiming for.
Great advice. I want mine to be GT spec plus a little...But being built on a base model i will need to take care of that. Cheers fellas.
Chassis gussets, cage, strut brace and decent axle location is good enough for a road / ocassional track car with modest power.
Any progress to report on this
Its away for paint so nothing too exciting to report, just a bit of seam sealing and panel prep
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