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Thread: Door skin/door bottom

  1. #1
    Racer Decade Plus User x-pack's Avatar

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    Door skin/door bottom

    Has anyone ever repaired a really fucked door bottom at the same time as the skin on a Mk2?

    I need some tips.

    My door bottom is completely gone and so is the skin. I was going to pay someone 150 to do it (not including the skin that i am supplying) but thought i might as well have a crack myself seeing as i can weld a bit. I'm just a bit concerned about getting the fit right once it's all back together. I was going to mock it all up - just tack weld it and then refit the door before seam welding the lot

    I'm imagining that the lower section is going to fall to bit once the skin is removed.. Bit scarey really
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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    is it advisable to have a door skin folding tool at the ready?
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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    I think you've got the right idea, get the outer skin tacked in place and sitting right, you can then sort the frame out which is less important anyway.

    A door skin folding tool is handy, but you can manage just as easily with a hammer and dolly. In fact, on curved sections you have no choice other than to use the hammer and dolly .
    Last edited by exboyracer; 14-03-2010 at 16:37.
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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    Nice one. So you reckon fitting the skin first is the best option? The only problem i can see with that is folding the skin over first (which would have to be done to check the door fit) before tacking on the lower repair sections.

    I have a skin tool on it's way to me
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    Bodger carlf's Avatar

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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    I have a couple in a similar condition x-pack. If you could post updates on your progress I'd be eternally grateful.

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    World Champion Decade Plus User exboyracer's Avatar

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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    Ideally you'd be better removing the door, completely stripping the frame and reparing it then fitting a new skin, but for a lot of people that's just not practical or economical. I think doing it the way we've discussed is probably the best way for you.

    You should be able to trial fit the door without folding the skin over the door, even if you can't shut the door fully.
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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    I will be taking some pics as the work goes. Hopefully be doing it this weekend.

    Definitely taking the door off and then just take my time with it - got the whole weekend from Thursday. I just hope the frame doesn't twist or anything like that.
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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    This is today's work. I was surprised how much i got done actually. The door has been stripped, skin removed, plates fabricated and tacked on. i mock fitted it several times to check how it was going. No major issues really.



    Some horrible rot there!



    This is the next job before refitting. Needs a good rub down and primer





    Some of the plates in position and tacked on



    It's now fully welded and seam sealed. Just got the skin to fit tomorrow



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    Bodger carlf's Avatar

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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    There's more to these doors than I thought! Thanks for the resto pics. I think mine are marginally worse than yours but I guess it only means I'll need a bigger strip of repair sheet welding in. Incidentally, to replace the skin, can you just unfold the old and replace with the new? Or do you have to remove some spot welds?

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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    there are some spot welds but only a few and they are tiny.
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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    got it all finished now. just need a hand refitting the door and the window frame needs some adjustment by way of block of wood and brute force
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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    think you will find the skins are spotted at various places .........mine was , i ground down the inner lip at a 45 degree angle as to not to disturb the inner skin lip then removed outer skin and ground off the left over lip on the inner lip of door leaving a nice clean and solid base for new skin to be folded over , i etched the whole of the inner door frame , then zinc sprayed and applied small thin line of body sealent all round the frame
    i then placed the new outer skin on and sqeezed .............once done i proceeded to use door skin folding tool and dollys to fold outer skin lip over
    WUNDERBAR ! a new skin and door ready for waxyoiling !
    hope this helps ! oh i nearly forgot i fitted bitumastic sound pads to the skin and spot welded it at the four corners ........now sounds like a new car door closing !
    cheers
    dazzer76

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    Bodger carlf's Avatar

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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    Thanks again x-pack. And you too Dazzer, very helpful info. Here's a very bad picture of mine copied from my garage thread. I've not got any with the doors open but basically they're both flaring out at the bottom by about 10mm due to the total absence of inner structure.

    Last edited by carlf; 23-03-2010 at 00:46.

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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    no sweat mate hope it was helpfull info .........the first thought of changing a door skin scared the living daylights out of me but id be happy doing it again and again
    the whole idea of all that prep work was to make those doors last another 10-20 years and hope fully it will.........got 2 spare skins just in case
    plus i seriously suggest to any one re skinning a door to add the sound pads across most of the door as they sound better when closing than when they left the factory
    any more advice and id be happy to help
    cheers

    Dazzer76

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    Re: Door skin/door bottom

    I'm just waiting for some hinge pins before i refit mine. I've had it fitted up and bolted on, but i find it a bit of a two man job to get the adjustment bang on. It looks ok ..well not bad for me anyway..

    Glad to help
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