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Racer
Re: ST170 cylinder head dry build.
One of the first jobs to do is get your cams correctly installed in cylinder head. I think the tappets might be solids with shims so they will need setting, not necessarily an easy task for home build unless you've a variety of assorted shims or machining equipment.
The next step when the cams are fitted in the correct way is to do a dry build with the cylinder head temporally fitted to check your valve to piston clearance with the cam timing set to the manufactures recommendations. If you are in any doubt as to what you are doing seek a professional engine builder that's had experience with 16v engines because it's not a nice experience when you have an engine blow with valve to piston contact, I have seen the whole engine knackered in some cases when this happens.
I have never had any experience with VVT so I can't comment, I would have probably gone for a Cat Cams VVT delete kit that would do away with the VVT, it's one less problem out of the way.
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Racer
Re: ST170 cylinder head dry build.
There was one other thing I forgot to mention when installing the cams is to check for coil binding of the valve springs as the Cams are likely to have more overall valve lift that the std ST 170 ones.
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Racer
Re: ST170 cylinder head dry build.
I have n't had any dealings with the ST 170 head but I have with the Zetec 1600 Sigma SE and that had no tappet adjusting shims, the clearance was obtained by different sized cam buckets, you need to establish what type you have in your engine.
Last edited by Forest_rallying; 14-10-2018 at 12:35.
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Racer
Re: ST170 cylinder head dry build.
Only you can answer that question, do you know what youre doing? have you done it before, how good are your engine building skils, its not too difficult but without knwoing your knowledge of engines im not sure how someone could answer.
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