T9 Into Manual Mk1 Escort - Where Does It Not Fit

[MK1_Oz]

OK I know this topic has been covered multiple times before......

Pretty much all threads say that either an auto tunnel is required or a FBH needs to be used.

I have just received my T9 (Quaiffe HD straight cut, steel synchros, billet blocker bars, alloy top cover, etc etc) but do not have an engine block to offer it up to the car. Therefore, can somebody tell me or produce a diagram showing the area that need to be modified?

I am trying to find an auto tunnel but there dont seem to be many around so I am starting to think about modifying the manual tunnel (perhaps with steel and welder rather than FBH).

Any help appreciated.

[Escortotis]

I havet got around to doing this yet but here is what I have read.

If you use an alloy bellhousing (rs2000 type) you will not have to widen the tunnel at the front.

The gearstick leaver will need to be moved back about 3inches. (I believe it is possible to cut and move the lever on the box but dont know much about this)

The orignal engine box often collide with the gearbox if it moves after been fitted. So eithre remove then or use a jack between them to prise them apart.

Then you can use the mountings from the type 9 box and bolt through the floor or make up custom mounts to use the original moutings. the box mounts will need approx 25mm spacers also and i believe a one piece prop.

Thats it in a nut shell.

[MK1_Oz]

I have an alloy bellhousing. So using that, can the clutch be changed with the engine in? i.e. is there enough room to remove the gearbox with engine in place or is that when the auto tunnel comes in handy?

Moving the lever hole back is easy. Moving the original manual gearbox mounts shouldnt be too hard either.

Basically if a manual tunnel works then I would rather keep it as they look better than an auto.......

[Escortotis]

I believe clutch changing is tricky (even on rs2000's that came with the type 9 as standard)

But Iv read if you loosen the cross memeber bolts and allow the engine to drop down a bit it helps with changing the clutch.

But how often will clutch be changed? And its not a big job to pull out an engine and box in an escort if all goes to all.

Ill be putting in one in my mk1. Tho I will be putting in a larger tunnel as god knows what I will try get in there after a few years

[justaddmud]

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...+escort+how+to

this is a great thread, shows where you need to cut the supporting crossmember, how to move the hole and an alternative to cutting and rewelding the crossmember mounts,

used it when doing mine, worked a treat

with regards to clearence, i have an rs bell housing and have chopped of an re welded the mounts, gearbox fits fine although close without any tunnel mods, but does make dropping th gearbox a right pain, i tend to pull the engine for a clutch now

[4drmatt]

you only need to bash the tunnel if using the cast sierra bellhousing. cut the gearstick hole out, plus about 2-3", flip it around, weld it back in.

try it in the tunnel. mine cleared the old 4 speed mounts no problem

you will find it quite a struggle to take the box out with the engine fitted. i managed to get away with dropping the engine crossmember down on longer bolts to gain the space needed. i'm not sure if an auto tunnel will help as I think they only really add width? not 100% on that though.

[MK1_Oz]

i'm not sure if an auto tunnel will help as I think they only really add width? not 100% on that though.

If this is true then I cannot really see a reason to fit an auto tunnel. However, the regs I am following do not permit an aftermarket tunnel so maybe I will just have to wear it. My main concern is permitting a reasonably fast clutch change if one fails on an event.

[justaddmud]

from what i read before (on here) the auto tunnel is wider, taler and the mounts are in the perfect place for a t9 box

[Marigold]

I have an auto tunnel in my mk2 with a pinto - you can remove the T9 gearbox with a sierra cast iron bellhousing without having to take the engine out - the extra space is a blessing! An RS alloy bellhousing will be even easyer!!

The mounts for the box are in the right place - mine uses a 4-spd xmember with spacers (washers) as the tail mount is lower than an auto.

Expressed panels do a new auto tunnel (allthough postage to Aus will add to the already pricey part) E1F 37 - Large Tunnel (Auto) - £118.00. It does come with a square hole for the stick - Looks better if you replace it with the std round one but this can create clearance issues if you have a quickshift fitted to the T9 as the mount bolts are very close to the plate.

Well worth it though.

[mervhill]

Is the MK1 different to the MK2 then? Because I have a T9 Quaife pro box in my MK2 coupled to a pinto and didn't have to modify bugger all. The Gear lever comes out in the right spot too.

Also, I've never had to drop the engine fully out to get the gearbox off, just undo the crossmember bolts, jack underneath, and another on the gearbox mount, then just drop the box tail down, bit of a wiggle and it comes away just fine. Changed the clutch like that before too. All you need is an old input shaft to align the plates when you put the new one back in

[Marigold]

MK1 and Mk2 are the same. With an auto tunnel you dont need to undo anything on the engine - xmember bolts included, Just undo the bellhousing bolts, clutch cable, speedo, prop and then undo the gearbox xmember and drop out (after taking the stick off!). This is also with a WCXM fitted which mean less work when doing a quick change. This is why people fit the aftermarket large tunnels as they have similare clearance to an auto tunnel.

With a std tunnel the simple way is to loosen the engine xmember (or use longer temp bolts) to allow the lot to drop slightly to clear the tunnel.

[Marigold]

If you have an RS2000 a T9 box will go straight in - they are a direct swap for the Type E (Rocket) box as fitted to them.

Mk1 and Mk2's are the same regards the tunnel clearance. If you have a std tunnel you need to lower the engine xmember to allow the bellhousing to clear the tunnel.

With an auto tunnel (or aftermarket large tunnel) you dont need to do this - even with a WCXM. I have swapped my gearbox without jacking the car up or undoing anything on the engine! Just undo the bellhousing bolts, starter motor, speedo/clutch cables, drop the prop off and undo the gearbox XM and lower away. (I did have a lot of ground clearance)

[Dave]

The only time you don't have to move the gear lever hole is if you have an RS, otherwise you do.
The bit of the tunnel that needs bashing is the bottom corners. Where the drivers left heel would be and the passengers right heel.
Very easy to do and once you have it all in there it is no great mystery. A few smacks with a hammer is all it takes.

[Dave]

ps. if you are using an alloy bellhousing you can convert them to quick release fairly easily. It is what they did back in the day to give quick clutch changes.
I think Dave Andrews homepage gives a "how to" on this.

[MK1_Oz]

Where do I find Dave Andrew's (I dont know of him - sorry DA ) home page?

[MK1_Oz]

Sorry....finally found it via google..............not that I can find the article on quick release .....me dumb

[Dave]

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...se+bellhousing
Search on here then, it has been covered more than once.

[MK1_Oz]

OK, minor change of plans. I have found an auto tunnel and have started to prep it for the swap.

Now, from what I have read in this and other threads, if I have a Pinto and a T9 box then it will all drop right into place using the auto tunnel AND the tunnel mounts will be in the correct place. Sounds great but.....

1. does the gear lever hole still need moving back?
2. what gearbox crossmember do I use? I think a Capri one but manual or auto Capri box version?
3. I am using a WCXM (from R.A.C.E.). Does this change anything?

I have to pull the auto tunnel gearbox mounts off before installing it as the tunnel has rusted behind those mounts. I will remove them, let in fresh metal then reinstall. If they are going to need moving then now would be the time!!!

Many thanks

[4drmatt]

[*]what gearbox crossmember do I use? I think a Capri one but manual or auto Capri box version?

auto one from an escort

recent thread about it here http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...-autobox-mount

[MK1_Oz]

OK, just bolted a dummy block into place and I can now measure exactly how much of the tunnel crossmember to cut away and how far back to move the lever hole (around 3" as said before). I was not expecting to need to move the hole when using an auto tunnel but I do.

Just for the record, I need to cut away about HALF of the crossmember. Seems alot! People let in a new plate to box it back in- should that plate be welded to the underside of the tunnel top????

[exboyracer]

Just for the record, I need to cut away about HALF of the crossmember. Seems alot! People let in a new plate to box it back in- should that plate be welded to the underside of the tunnel top????

That's exactly what I had to do. I boxed mine in to retain the strength for what it's worth. Mine is fully seam welded all the way round.

[MK1_Oz]

I was planning on plug welding mine in as I cut the manual tunnel out leaving a 10mm overlap. I was also going to either seam or stich the tunnel in purely for asthetic reasons but it depends on how close I can get the panels with the plug welds... From the factory the auto tunnel was only spot welded in.

[mogz46]

hi there i have just got my self a project ii have a 1.6 pinto with a janspeed turbo kit on it and a t5 narrow box to go in to my 1.3 gl mk2 escort 4 door. do i need another propshaft or can i use the original 2 pice one and also will the gearbox go in with out choping the tunnel about ? thanks mogz

[exboyracer]

All your questions are answered in this thread
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthre...ype+conversion