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Thread: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

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    Bodger

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    Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    I have mk1 Escort with 2.0l Pinto with unknown race type cam, i need a new distributor and ignition system. I have 12v non-ballast ignition live wire

    Will a standard distributor work with the lumpy cam? would an electronic distributor solve this?
    Do i need vacuum or non-vacuum distributor?
    With an electronic distributor does it still need seperate ignition module?
    Will points and condensor type distributor require anything more than distributor and coil?

    I prefer a simple setup and recommendations of where i can get the parts quickly much appreciated.

    Thank you

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    Racer Decade Plus User Forest_rallying's Avatar

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    My Pinto build is slowly coming to a close and I have a Bosch distributor fitted with an accuspark ignition system located in the distributor itself. I have not yet got the engine up and running so I have no idea how good it will be.

    You can buy a Bosch type distributor off accuspark with an ignition system fitted along with the correct coil and everything else for your needs. You can either go on their Web site or Ebay to view what you want. I can't put a link on because I have no idea how to.

    Back in the day I used a Bosch distributor with correct advance curve and plugs and points for simplicity. I'll try and get that setup as a spare in case the electronic ignition starts playing up at ant time in the future.

    I forgot to add that Accusparks prices are very good which makes me think that they are made in China.
    Last edited by Forest_rallying; 02-02-2019 at 10:10.

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    Sounds almost too good to be true? is advance curve programmable or is like static/fixed advance points distributor ?

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    Racer Decade Plus User Forest_rallying's Avatar

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    My distributor was a genuine Bosch one that I already had with the Accuspark ignition system retro fitted to it. They are n't programmable, they rely on the bob weights for mechanical advance. They don't say what theirs are set at.

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    Right so your accuspark is only for a standard spec engine?

    Where can i get a points distributor with ignition curve to suit my engine or does it have to be electronic or mappable?

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    Racer Decade Plus User wildo105e's Avatar

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    Aldon automotive H & H Ignitions burton power maybe ?

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    Spanner Monkey

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    I’ve got an 104FPR1 Bosch by Aldon on points if interested, came off a tuned pinto a few years ago I broke up and never used. £60 posted tried putting some pics up but file to big.

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    Got uprated distributor, how is a points condensor distributor wired?
    Is the following right?

    Coil has number 1 and 15 instead +-?

    ignition 12v+ live back/yellow to + coil
    Green wire from distributor to - coil

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    15 on coil is + (+ from ignition key)
    1 on coil is - (to points in distrbutor, green wire)
    But you need a 3 Ohm coil for this (+12V) otherwise your points will do a Tsjernobil. (burn out)

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    Thats very helpful thank you! It came with a matching coil i double check the ohms.

    I followed the haynes manuals and set timing to TDC then drop in the distributor with rotor pointing in towards intake on cylinder 1.
    I used test light and set points and gap just opening but notch on distributor ends up 45 -90 degrees out is that normal?

    Also got electronic version now but this has no markings or notch on the body and pickup block thing with 2 wires also ends up out at strange angle. I got coil for this one as well does this need to be 3ohms as well?

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    Rotor should point to notch in distributor body at TDC, a few degrees out is not an issue (as it doesn't spark at TDC) but 45 ior 90 degrees out is too much.
    Which electronic version? If it's a Ford/Motorcraft item then it will need an external amplifier/ECU to work. You cannot connect it directly to the coil as with aftermarket electronic ignitions like Aldon Ignitor.

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    Right i checked crank pulley at TDC with pointer on the front cover, cam pulley dot is at 6 o'clock i checked both vavles closed and pistons up on 1.
    The distributor took out an set back in so rotor is pointing towards intake 1 then aligned distributor body to middle of rotor arm.
    Using a test light i rotated the body anti-clockwise a touch till light just comes on. Should i go clockwide from TDC until light comes on?

    Now the bit im not too clear on from manuals is with a non-vacuum distributor it says 8 degrees BTDC, is that measured with the engine running when TDC on pulley lines up with pointer with timing gun set to 8 degrees? Or do i set it at static 8 degrees BTDC on pulley then line up distributor and rotor again?


    I got Accuspark that was recommended earlier, whats the difference with Ford/Motorcraft and seperate module, which one would be better suited for a tuned up engine?

    Hope to get it running tomorrow after 2 decades since it last ran.

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    Racer Decade Plus User wildo105e's Avatar

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    If I understand you correctly. Firstly I would line everythig so it fires on Nr1 plug at TDC. Then move the engine to 8 btdc and realign the distributor to firing on 1 again are there not markers on the bottom pulley to give you 8 degs etc.

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    There is markings on the pulley i wasn't sure if 8BTDC is set when engine is off so pointer it at 8 degrees on the pulley with rotor arm and distributor lined up towards intake on cylinder 1.

    Or set static timing at TDC and adjust distributor to 8BTDC when running with a strobe?

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    Racer Decade Plus User wildo105e's Avatar

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    So yes i would set to 8 deg btdc and line your rotor arm with nr 1 plug lead which ever one that may be (engine off). If it happens to be pointing to nr 1 intake so be it. Remember this being done by eye so when you come to start it you may have to jiggle it backwards or forwards if it doesn't fire. once running and warmed up you can time it on the strobe accurately at 8 degrees btdc. Doing it this way has always worked for me.

    TDC is only a ref points for all other markings etc

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    Thank you it worked first time first crank and ran smooth with oil pressure in 6 seconds first time in 2 decades! however I couldn't run the engine for few minutes at a time because exhaust is glowing red hot at idle or just off idle
    I moved the distrubitor both clockwise and anticlockwise and seemed happy at 8BTDC anymore than 10BTDC it wants to rev out and sit around 4000rpm, downto 6BTDC idled at 650RPM lumpy but manifolds are always red immediately eitherway.

    Am i correct in thinking hot manifold could be a symptom of running too lean?
    Tripple checked everything im certain i have no vacuum leaks and all balanced and syncronised with no binding or play in the linkages. Double checked fuel pressure at 3.5 psi, not sure what weber dcoe 45 float level should be?

    With weber dcoe if i turn mixture screw out it gets richer?
    Im at 3 turns any less it wants to stumble any more than it revs out hard and very slow back to idle. Again manifolds glow immediately eitherway so im bit lost timing or fuel?

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    Quote Originally Posted by jungle View Post
    Double checked fuel pressure at 3.5 psi
    Not sure about the rest of it, but the fuel pressure is a little bit high at 3.5psi.

    You want it between 1.5-2.5psi max...(I thought this was the case, but I had to check for myself too)

    And if you had put a battery drill or similar with an attachment on to the hex drive beneath the dizzy before you put the dizzy in you could've got the oil pressure up before start up... That hex drive goes into the top of the oil pump.

    But all said at least it started 1st time which is more than mine did years ago...
    Last edited by rallyrob; 08-02-2019 at 08:41.

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    3.5psi was recommded on weber instructions sheet i got with the new kit. Below 3 psi carb spits and pops.

    Oil pressure was primed already i did it before turning the engine over by hand and changing the belts prior to setting up the timing. 24hrs since i primed before cranking it but atleast wasn't 20 years dry.

    I like to get engine to point where its happy at idle before i send it off to a professional to tune.
    Last edited by jungle; 08-02-2019 at 12:05.

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    thank you everyone for the help i got it sorted, the problem was Accuspark distributor advance was all over the place the rolling road said then it just died.
    Lucky i brought a points an condensor distributor to confirm Accuspark is dead and another electronic one similar to Accuspark but green and gold both with same ignition advance rate set at 6BTDC static and max advance 36BTDC. 2x DCOE somehow i managed to get balanced and mixture bang on they didn't need to adjust or tweek it, didn't charge me at all.

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    Spanner Monkey

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    Re: Mk1 Pinto Distributor Ignition parts help please

    I was just reading this and was going to say, if I were you I'd stay from accuspark. My experience has not been so great with their products, having had one of their "black box" ecu things and a dizzy fail. Got to the bottom and see you also had their dizzy fail.

    I ended up using a powerspark, simply because there were down the road and I could go get one there and then, worked faultlessly and as far as I know still going strong in the car of the guy I sold it to.

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