Ive been told you can swap the followers around to fit as needed then just buy the ones you need toOriginally Posted by eric
Ive been told you can swap the followers around to fit as needed then just buy the ones you need to
sorry to dig up an old thread, what sort of ECU are you using with the VVT?
I was looking for one these engines in a rwd car.
Could you give a rough price ideas on TBs,Flywheel and stuff
would silvertop zetec flywheel fit these engines?
I an using the omex 600 which can control the vvt, you can set a tps value and rpm to switch the vvt on or off thats all, most after market ecu's are basic when it comes to control the vvt.
Try http://www.retroford.co.uk/ this will give a good idea to the costs envolved and search Turbosport loads of good advice and info.
I used the 1.8 zetec flywheel drilled to except a pinto clutch then changed to a TTV Racing flywheel using the same clutch setup.
Started on the escort again, sorted out the oil cooler bracket just needs painting to finish, just fits upright with a few mm to spare.
Brought a Rally Design tension kit to replace the twin cam anti roll bar looks good now that it's fitted but was not a straight forward fit, the chassis body brackets required work to finish off and some wrong bolts came with the kit but then it is cheaper than most.
nice work thought you had lost interest.good to see your back on
Never lost interest in the old girl it's been a tad cold which slowed things down a bit, I did come close to giving up for a while when I warmed up a spray can in the kettle which I forgot about, I carefully lifted the tin only to slip through my fingers, on hitting the floor it promptly exploded I was covered in blue paint I was lucky as the blast of paint went away from the escort and my sons sierra cosworthsome days you just got to laugh
Last edited by eric; 19-01-2011 at 20:19.
The grp4 struts have arrived it's the last thing i going to buy this year, well that's what I told the wife
They are top quality with good welding and finish made with genuine bilstein stubs looking forward to using the escort again.
Last edited by eric; 15-03-2011 at 19:55.
Not been happy with power of the st170 engine with the vvt it is very flat after 4000 rpm, tried various settings on the vvt nothing seemed to make any differance to the power
anyone else had this problem with the st engine, the vvt does seem to be a bit hit and miss.
Decided to bin the vvt and use the vvt delete Cat Cam’s 2301013 profiles proved to work well with the std internals on the dyno these cams have made 207 bhp / 177 lb.ft of torque
Still waiting for the cams to be delivered but was bored so made a start on the st
Checked the valve clearances and bucket sizes all within ford spec.the advice from catcams if
the head has not been messed with the valve clearances should be ok with the new cams,fingers crossed at £16.00 for each bucket if not
Tapped the oil feed and blocked off with a 6mm grub screw 18mm core plugs yet to fitted to block off the vvt solenoid hole.
Made a steel plate bolted to the head for the dial gauge magnet to stand on
Just need some cams now
Last edited by eric; 12-06-2011 at 17:20.
Nice worK really interesting read those struts look the bees knees what springs are you using .Neil
250lb 12inch springs
looking good
sideways is the best way to turn a corner
Nice mate can't wait to hear the diffrece the cat cams make.
Me to Trig, at the moment it's slower than my old blacktop.
hi mate the vvt needs to be operated with a pwm output as its continously variable, NOT off and on as you had been using it. its works well when controlled like this but you would need a dtas60/s80 or omex 710 or the like and it mapped to suit... i dont blame you for the way you have went and it will be good when you get the cams in.be interesting to see the difference.
track fiesta on all the right bits.....
Totally agree that using the vvt by just switching is a poor substitute for good power but there has been some good results using this method just did not work for me
The info from catcams web site (Dyno proven to produce 207 bhp / 177 lb.ft of torque)
nice project, il be watching this thread as im getting near ordering them cat cams, just a quick question were's the core plug got to go to block the vvt, is it the hole next to the one you have tapped and fitted a grub screw
cheers nik
Yep just above where the grub screw is.
might be a stupid question so I apologise in advance, but why are you blocking the oil feed and vvt hole ? Only reason I ask is a asked cat cams what I need to do to the head and they said just bolt the new cams in, check valve tolerance and away you go
Last edited by nik_plant; 18-06-2011 at 00:05.
If you leave the soleniod in you don't need to block the oil way off but if removed these will need to be capped to stop the flow of oil, left uncapped you would fill the valley where the plugs are.
Last edited by eric; 18-06-2011 at 14:11.
yea i see now i should have looked at my engine before asking the question, cheers
The catcams are in and timed up, the inlet camshaft seal was a pain to install as the inner lip would not seat properly, I found a easy way is to install the seals with the top cover removed line them up refit the upper cover, worked a treat with no leaks
1st start did not go to well was hard to fire up and keep running spitting back with some back firing and exhaust manifold temp to high, recheaked the timing which was all ok tried again still the sameafter changing the fuel map tried again now sorted
Last edited by eric; 19-06-2011 at 17:02.
Nice work
nice looking forward to hearing some feedback on the cams, when youve had a drive
Just had the 1st drive with the catcams installed very very impressed with these cams
Loving the motor mate. Considering a st170 for my next project. How did you get on with the tension struts? Do they make much difference? Thinking of using them myself.
hi eric, iam in the throws of building an ST motor for my owd pig, we are using a rick wood cnc head n cams , with the usuals, (jenveys, dta 600 ,tony law exhaust manifold, arp bottom end bolts etc ), i just wondered if you were using or had heard of anyone using different oil pumps or having problems with the standard ones, thanks rick
I have heard of the std oil pump failing on the zetec engines when revved over 7000rpm but this is info from the internet
The tension kit is working well it is a bit over kill for road use but you can set up the correct caster which made a big difference to my mk1
iam not sure what limit to put on it, ive used competition bearings from the states and arp'd the bottom end and fly wheel,, so hoping to get it screaming (but safeish) what are your thoughts on a soft and hard cut limit with the dta 600I have heard of the std oil pump failing on the zetec engines when revved over 7000rpm but this is info from the internet
Not had the pleasure of the dta 600, I have my omex 600 set to ignition cut at 7300 & fuel cut at 7500rpm just under when the oil pump goes tits up
Hi eric have you had it on the RR yet ?Not had the pleasure of the dta 600, I have my omex 600 set to ignition cut at 7300 & fuel cut at 7500rpm just under when the oil pump goes tits up
Gerry
Not yet Gerry the mapping is not being done on the rollers but by a friend who normally maps evo's, a power run will follow some time after
I'll drop in and see you at some point , keep up the good work with all this sun you should be out enjoying it !!
Little update
Fitted a Mocal Oil tank plumbed it into the cam cover and std zetec block breather seems to work really well
A nice set of alloys from Rally Design with Yoko A048s
should have used a set of decent tyres long ago the grip is amazing
Bonus pic
.jpg)
hi eric, ive finally got my mate ste (sc auto electrics) to wire the dta s60 in , the tony law manifold is a work of art and just fits in,, weve put it on individual coils and 45 jenvys,, i endded up modifyin, water rail alternator bracket, sump, all sorts , but its in and running now,, found a map online for a ford ka with a 170 in on bodies with cat cams,, seams to run ok for now till i get it on a dyno and let someone with a bit more savvy have a play,, ( your mk1 looks well
Sounds good have had a chance to see how the power of the st compares on the road to your old engine yet.
no not yet,, ive got to pull the exhaust manifold of 1st and rewrap it with some more heat wrap, it keeps gettin the wirin and pipework to hot,, till i sort that i cant run it to long,, it better be more power n torque and be a lot smother,, the old 1 went well but was on carbs and a basic webber alpha with a crap ignition timming map,, i will let you know how i go on,,,, cheers rick, ive still got to sort the suspension and the inside out yet, iam goin to get an MSA book on it, and hopefully do a couple of local events
Final edited photo, looks much better with out the traffic light in the background
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
.jpg)
.jpg)
Bookmarks