I’m looking for any advise or info regarding fitted a fire system. I’ve never fitted one before and info on line seems a little thin.
Its in a Mk 1 Escort with race trim interior, any pointers would be really appreciated.
I’m looking for any advise or info regarding fitted a fire system. I’ve never fitted one before and info on line seems a little thin.
Its in a Mk 1 Escort with race trim interior, any pointers would be really appreciated.
which kind of info? it's should be pretty easy, like plug and play.
Is this a road or rally car u want to fit this system too.
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it might be strange but the purpose of onboard systems like are fitted in race and rally cars is not to actually put fires out!
they are intended to buy you time to get out the car not save the car from fire, although they will if the fire is fairly small and localised.
either way they are not hard to fit but good systems are expensive
If its a new system you have bought then there should be instructions in the box
My lifeline system came with instructions
Hand held in the passengers foot well
Main bottle on top of diff tunnel. 1 jet pointing into each foot well (towards bulkhead) and 4 jets in the engine bay
I got a cheap OMP one, 3 jet in the engine bay (2 on carbs and 1 on alternator/exhaust), inside 2 pointing direct on the body of the driver and one to the passenger (attached under the dashboard).
Like graham says, it's to buy you time, doesn't have the power to extinguish a proper fire, that's also the whole purpose of fireproof suits.
Cheers guys, never really thought about instructions coming with a kit, just shows how green I am regarding this area.
Ok, I see, I did not realise they wouldn’t extinguish a fire, well you live and learn, even at 53
It’s purely a track car for the moment, work in progress, as I iron out certain problems that are bound to appear, I want to then go onto maybe hill sprints, single stage (if that’s what they even call them now) or classic racing.
I’m really interested in areas like routing the pipes, position of nozzles, how many in what areas, best place to mount the activation handle etc.
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The bigger kits like the 8 nozzle system in my car will knock a fire back , but that all depends on how big it it! no on board system will ever cope with a big hole in a fuel or oil tank dumping ts content over a hot exhaust.
pipe routing is entirely up to you and will vary considerably depending on how many nozzles you have. nozzle location will vary with number the instructions will suggest. but typically high risk areas, so under the dash, air filters, or things that are close to a hot exhaust. activation pull cables, sounds obvious but easily missed, the internal one where you can reach it when tightly belted in, the external one would normally on the scuttle at base of n/s windscreen, that is where scrutineers and marshals would look for it first. external cables are prone to seizing, so before you fit it to the car pull the inner right and grease its entire length and put it back in, the grease will bother prevent the cable corroding and keep water out.
Last edited by Graham; 09-03-2019 at 08:34.
I really like the look of this, what do people think of it?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Kswau1mGBE8
that not that big a fire! the fia/msa approved stuff has to cope with a much bigger test, also think about it, how much fuel did that guy squirt with teh turkey baster not much, certainly nothing like a decent fuel pump wil put out if a fuel line failed.
if you are going to do anything Motorsport replaced you need to use an MSA approved system
Refer here ..... https://www.motorsportuk.org/assets/...orssafetyk.pdf ...... gives the general requirements which vary between what the vehicle is used for.
I was surprised by the prohibition of dry powder extinguishers - as a Chubb Fire trained fire marshal, CO2/powder can knock back electrical type fires really well and foam for fuel / oil fires - never used AFFF, so can't comment. Annoyingly the best extinguishant is Halon problem is that it kills the planet (apparently!) and probably the driver if used in a closed car LOL! Powder does make a mess but it does kill a blaze if you hit it hard.
If you fit an AFFF / foam type extinguisher then yes it probably will not put an oil/petrol based fire out.
Halon (CFK's) attack the ozon-layer and therefor are no longer allowed. Whilst it was an excellent product for putting out fires it was also harmfull for people (it pushes out all oxygen) and it causes rust (Bromium).
But there is a replacement for Halon which is Novec 1230. Extinguishers with Novec 1230 are expensive but in my opinion well worth it. Lifeline has a line of Novec 1230 extinguisher under the name Zero 360.
I was at a classic race last weekend and a Camero caught fire on the home straight, right in front of us. He kept moving for 200 yards or so, I’d imagine while he was unbuckling, then when he did stop he almost exited the immediately.
I was a little surprised to how quick the fire engulfed the front of the car, to an extent within minutes a tyre even popped. It took the marshals numerous attempts and a fire truck to extinguish but everyone was ok but not the car.
I am able to offer Lifeline Extingusihers and kits with some discount available for Turbosport members. What system you looking for?
Regards
Tim
TJ Motorsport
45 Allt Dderw
Broadlands
Bridgend
CF31 5BZ
http://www.tjmotorsport.co.uk
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I’ve since purchased a lifeline zero 2000 kit, and as explained the instructions help with the fitment. It’s all fairly obvious now I look at it.
Just curious what people used to cut the pipe, I’ve tried a micro pipe cutter but the pipe seems to narrow where the wheel pushes the aluminium while cutting.
They will do that, but that gives you a nice clean edge if using push fit joints so you don't damage the o rings in the fittings.
Certainly nothing better to use to cut tubing.
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