anyone with a picture on where will i grind the 74* mini thermostat and where to drill a hole?
anyone with a picture on where will i grind the 74* mini thermostat and where to drill a hole?
does the hole needed to be drilled on the top of the thermostat like the stock one in the crossflow or i can drill it anywhere?
Last edited by escymkii; 11-08-2011 at 03:16.
I'l have a look in the shed today to see if I have a spare one lying around and upload a pic for you
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races" - Enzo Ferrari
Here is exactly where you need to drill a 3 or 4mm hole, drill it close to the inside lip of the outer piece, leaving the brass "valve" untouched, the reason for drilling it close to the inside is to clear the rubber ring that seals the thermostat and holds it in place with a steel clip, you can drill 2 holes if you like, place one of the holes towards the top of the engine when you are fitting it into the thermostat housing, the top hole will act as an air bleed and also lets a little coolant through the system when cold, eliminating hot spots in the engine and sudden cooling of the head which can happen without the stat holes if driven too hard before being fully warmed up
This is a spare 82* stat I have for a road engine, use the 74* stat for competition use with a few holes and also in warmer climates for fast road
Oh and with the 74* mini stat you simply grind the outer edge of the stat until it will fit into the pinto thermostat housing, use a pedestal grinder to do this
Last edited by RWD fords rule; 11-08-2011 at 12:46.
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races" - Enzo Ferrari
okei thanks for the info, very useful
thanks for this very useful thread, temp now immediately warms up towards the top of the blue temp and after that it maintains it that way, im going to install a proper temp gauge to know the specific temperatures
Hi mates, a simple question, I guess, about where to place the electro fan switch on my 2 ltr Pinto engine. I have it now on the bottom of the radiator and I'm not sure if this is the correct placement . so I'll appreciate your advices about these possible placements:
- Close to the tstat, as on the kent engine XR2
- On the upper part of the radiator
- On the upper hose
- On the bottom hose
- Other
My switch connects at 87º C and disconnects at 82º C
Wait your kind advices.
Cheers,
Eduardo
Last edited by ebenech; 29-10-2011 at 03:39.
top hose i would say as that will be measuring the out coming temp of the engine where as if you do it on the bottom hose, its going to measure the reduced temp of the water after its passed threw the radiator before the engine.
preferable top hose as close to the head as possible too.
although thinking about it, those temps seem a little low, you might struggle getting the temp down to 82* to get the fan to turn off, what temp stat do you have?
Last edited by caprimentle; 29-10-2011 at 11:48.
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
I always place the switch at the top of the rad or in the rad hose with an alloy adaptor, I have measured the coolant temp before about half way down the block and it was the same as in the top hose, you might get away with placing your switch on the bottom of the rad, it could be a few degrees hotter at the top of the rad but I think the temp difference should not be very big, use a good temp gauge to monitor the coolant temps in the head or towards the top of rad, make sure it doesn't ever go above 90, 80 to 85*C running temp is best for a pinto imho
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races" - Enzo Ferrari
Hi Caprimentle and RWD fords rule, many thanks for your kind replies and very helpful advices; also your ideas of where to place the electro fan switch are more or less the same, and I'll proceed accordingly, placing it on the upper hose I guess.
I would like now to give you some more info, and also answer both of yous your questions:
- My engine is a 205 block 2 ltr Pinto purchased thru "Turbosport" in the UK, with very low mileage, about 6000 miles as I have been told. It has a piper 285 cam and twin 45s. I just finished its installation, and am doing some tests. I have already concluded the oil side, having received a lot of help from your goodselves and other mates; I have a hi press oil pump and my press is 40 psi at iddle and 80 psi from 2000 RPM and up with the temp at 80º C
- I started yesterday the coolant temp and the oil fan switch on and off test with the car not in motion, (halt); and the the fan started at 95º C and stopped at 90º C according to the temp gauge.
- Fan switch is 87º C on, 82 ºC off.
- As said, the electro fan switch is placed at the bottom of the rad, and the temp gauge figures shown were 95º C when fan started, and 90º C when the fan sopped
- I can't tell yous how accurate is the temp electric gauge since its a new one, but I can test it with the help of a laser temp sensor, what I haven't done so far, but I'll do it ASAP.
- The gauge sensor is on its original position for Pinto engines, that is on the top of the head.
- My tstat is the original QTH 105 that opens at 88º C - the only one I could found locally - and have a 3 mm hole on it. But according to your suggestions, I purchased in the UK a Morris Mini one that open at 74º C. Is on its way and I should receive i shortly
Well mates, that's all so far, and am eager to hear your very expertness opinions
Cheers,
Eduardo
Last edited by ebenech; 29-10-2011 at 15:11.
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
Yeah Caprimentle, makes a lot of sense !! Thank you !!
Eduardo
Last edited by ebenech; 29-10-2011 at 17:37.
Hi does anyone know what temp sender unit I should be using in a pinto head.
Starting from mk3 cortina,escort,granada through to sierra, an anything else I've missed.
Are they all the same or are the senders suppose to match the temp gauge in the car? Am I right in thinking they were colour coded to the car?
Thanks
Rob.
Last edited by rallyrob; 23-02-2012 at 16:18. Reason: Just remebered the last bit of detail.
You use the temp sender that matches the gauges in your car
http://escort.accelerator.org
1968 MK1 Escort 1300GT
1969 'Big Wing' MK1 Escort
1972 MK3 Cortina 1600XL
1984 Sierra XR4i
And other junk I don't like to talk about!
Mmm Ok thanks.
Got twin cam gauges, plus what Will be an additional electric gauge. You think I'll find one for that?
You'll need to use an additional sender for the additional electric gauge
Chances are the twincam sender will be the same as a normal mexico one but I couldn't guarantee it.
http://escort.accelerator.org
1968 MK1 Escort 1300GT
1969 'Big Wing' MK1 Escort
1972 MK3 Cortina 1600XL
1984 Sierra XR4i
And other junk I don't like to talk about!
Ok thanks I remembered the bit about needing a separate sender for the additional gauge, they'd probably supply the sender with a New one anyway wouldn't they? Will a normal Mexico sender fit a pinto head then? Thanks Rob. This reply's done on my fone if it looks shite! It's crap an I hate it!
Yeah the mex sender should fit the pinto head, IIRC they're all the same thread.
http://escort.accelerator.org
1968 MK1 Escort 1300GT
1969 'Big Wing' MK1 Escort
1972 MK3 Cortina 1600XL
1984 Sierra XR4i
And other junk I don't like to talk about!
might sound silly but how do you know what colour sender is for which gauges?
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
I don't, I just go to a motor factors and ask for a water temperature sender for a MK1 mexico / 1300gt / whatever
http://escort.accelerator.org
1968 MK1 Escort 1300GT
1969 'Big Wing' MK1 Escort
1972 MK3 Cortina 1600XL
1984 Sierra XR4i
And other junk I don't like to talk about!
thats what i've always done too
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
hi, bit of an old thread but highlights my problem, 2 litre pinto mk2 escort rs 2000 gauges, never reads above the blue have tried sierra sender (white) cortina (green) would be nice to get it working properly. thanks
does the fuel gauge read low too? it could be the voltage regulator on the back of the gauges is on its way out.
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
yes i can get £25 worth of petrol in it and its still reading under the empty! and my mk1 escort runs out of petrol at a quarter of a tank as well, can you still get the regulators? the temp gauge does read slightly higher with the cortina sender
Last edited by corblimey3.1; 23-09-2012 at 10:21.
not sure if you can get new regulators, i'm sure one of the escort boys will know
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
cheers i'll look into it
Mk2 RS2000 clocks should run with a white sender, (same as cortina), the regs are NLA but you can solder in a solid state one for about £20
thanks bortaf, my local factors sold me the white one as a pinto sender then the green one as the cortina one, any chance of a link for that solid state regulator please as i have'nt got a clue what to look for? cheers
What colour temp sender should I be using ... I've got a standard 2.0L Pinto (205 Block) from a Sierra in a mk5 Cortina Estate.
CheeRS,
Aaron.
BUILT TO WIN & IT DID !!!
You should be using the one for your car - just go to a motor factors and ask for a temperature sender for a 2.0 MK5 Cortina
http://escort.accelerator.org
1968 MK1 Escort 1300GT
1969 'Big Wing' MK1 Escort
1972 MK3 Cortina 1600XL
1984 Sierra XR4i
And other junk I don't like to talk about!
Now I’ve joined the forum, I just want to say a massive thanks to everyone involved with this thread. I was having problems with my 2.0 with a 1.6 head running a little warmer than it liked. Mini thermostat solved the problem
I've a 205 block 2.0 pinto with 38dgas,, also and temps rise up to the red almost immediately when in traffic or town driving... Goes to half way mark during open driving
If I remember correctly when the engine was being refitted the thermostat was removed and not replaced, as it was sticking so it's always open atm.... Would this have the affect described above or the exact opposite ?
Also I misplaced the fan shroud would this be the cause of the engine not liking stop start town driving ?
Cheers in advance
Last edited by Tjrs500; 19-07-2014 at 11:18.
the shroud is important if still running a mechanical fan as it helps created a better vacuum straight through the rad. by you saying it's going back to normall temp whilst driving it shows the cooling system is working. so either fit the shroud or dump the mechanical fan in the bin and fit an electric one.
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
missplaced fan shroud certainly wont help, but if its that drastic i think something else is wrong too, im guessing the rad it partly blocked, so needs more revs to get the water pump to actually pump coolant through teh rad.
ps no theromstat at all is a bad idea, without teh flow restriction caused by the stat the coolant will not circulate properly round the back of the block and head,so you can end up with one end of the engine at an ok temp and the other boiling its arse off.
if you must run without a stat, remove the guts from the middle of one and put that in, that way it simulates having a wide open stat
Thanks for the quick replies
the car is a mk1 3dr Sierra and was previously a 1600 so has the smaller radiator aswell, about half the core size of the later 2.0 ones so going to change that soon also
Going to fit the 82* stat this week for peace of mind my local motorfactors had them in stock
Yeah I've tried to find a complete shroud but with no avail, ended up buying the upper section but doesn't seem to make a difference without the bottom also , As said to create that vacuum
Last edited by Tjrs500; 19-07-2014 at 17:19.
I have one question perhaps for those who tried Burton's 82 deg C tstat (First Line) - in my turbo Pinto with Cosworth head gasket (if it makes any difference) it runs 85 deg C when driving quite fast and the air temperature is 15-20 deg C. If driving in town, few traffic light stops and temperature goes to 94-97 deg C and in needs both radiator fan and cockpit heater on full heating to take it down. The engine is still in break in period so no hard driving. It was different story with previous NA engine with original Motorcraft tstat which held 88 deg while driving and temperature raised much slower in traffic.
Can this be related with YB headgasket (larger water holes and better flow) ?
Can this tstat be crap and just not maintaining temperature properly ?
Can this be related with non Motorcraft water pump ?
Temperature was measured using intake manifold's EFI temp sender through Megasquirt / laptop
Thanks
the turbo will mean a LOT more heat is trapped in the engine and engine bay compaired to your previous N/A set up. you probably need a bigger rad and some way to let heat out.
now heres a question, is the turbo water cooled? that will pump a LOT more heat into the cooling system which is quite possibly just cant cope with without the car being in motion
Graham, previous NA engine was also with turbo (just the engine itself was almost stock), the turbo was watercooled, I pushed 200 BHP out of it with stock rad, tstat, etc. I know the that there was no problem with temperature as I was constantly monitoring it.
Now the engine is with stronger bottom and other mods but temporary I put stock NA exhaust manifold and exhaust for break in period - no stress on it. However the temperatures are higher despite the fact that conditions are easier and thermostat is "cooler" so something must be wrong here, either thermostat, maybe influence of headgasket with larger water holes in the exhaust side, or maybe something else ?
nothing like giving us all the info up front!
your previous N/a engine was with a turbo? then it wasnt n/a!!
water pump wont be anything to do with it, neither i think will the holes be, certainly not idling
have you got the thermostat the right way round? with a pinto its easy to put it in the wrong way round.
your issue could be as simple as the timing is well retarded that will make it run hot. as will a very lean mixture, without the turbo restriction on the exhaust it could be very lean at low speed.
tbh i dont think you are doing yourself any favours trying to run without the turbo, if you dont want to stress the engine dont boot it simple
nothing like giving us all the info up front!
your previous N/a engine was with a turbo? then it wasnt n/a!!
water pump wont be anything to do with it, neither i think will the holes be, certainly not idling
have you got the thermostat the right way round? with a pinto its easy to put it in the wrong way round.
your issue could be as simple as the timing is well retarded that will make it run hot. as will a very lean mixture, without the turbo restriction on the exhaust it could be very lean at low speed.
tbh i dont think you are doing yourself any favours trying to run without the turbo, if you dont want to stress the engine dont boot it simple
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