Is reading temp from inlet reliable ? It's not really engine temp is it. Why not read water temp
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My cosy in my mk2 with cosy rad has always sat at 90 deg what ever I do with it
So 85 prob ok
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I think I will remove the housing and check, now I'm not sure that it's in correct position. Thanks Graham
if the thermostat is the wrong way round it will open but not until the engines nearly at boiling point
Mine has a hole as per recommendation in this topic, so by using bypass it could open earlier if it's wrong way in housing
Having a thought people, I'm running a reasonably powerful turbo pinto (little over 300bhp) and am curious about running water round the back of the block through that bung on the side, i can't quite figure out how to plumb it up though whilst leaving the heater matrix connected and water running to the turbo.
If im correct, the water comes OUT of the inlet manifold, then into the heater matrix, then into the turbo, then into the water pump. Could i run the coolent out of the turbo into the bung into the side of the block and blank the small water pump connection. Or will doing it this way put more heat into the back of the block as its hot water from the turbo.
its not dead till it's buried!
T.I.T engineering. "Feel the power!"
So the thermostat was put in a correct way ...
Any other ideas why the temperature is higher than using stock hotter thermostat ?
I have been thinking about something along those lines but never really finished the thoughts.
General advise here in Sweden with regards to turbo cooling is to plump it so it can self circulate when the engine is off (to aid cool-down). I never did that when I had a water cooled turbo though.
I would be interested in more brains on this :-)
Gustaf
Hi,
If i do not have a heat matrix fitted and blocked the outlet on the manifold and small inlet on the pump. Should there in this case be enough circulation in the cylinderhead when the stat is closed?
Ok, and what if i plumb the small outlet on the right side of the Block to the small inlet on the waterpump, would there be still enough circulation in the head? We now Run Without a stat, but enginetemps het high in heavy stages (110deg C ocasionally)
no thermostat at all is a bad idea, the coolant will not circulate around the back of the engine, just remove the middle section from the thermostat, that way there will still be some back pressure in teh cooling system which will force it around teh whole engine rather than just around no 1 cylinder
great thread this
Last edited by alladdin; 12-10-2017 at 19:19.
I actually ran a feed pipe from the waterpump (feed that would go to the heater) to the rear side of the block on a race pinto. Got the idea from Roger Miller here on the forum. There should be a thread about it if u do a search. T
Think it help here in our hot climate
Thought I’d post this here as I thing it’s related
Does any one have any information regarding the normal operating range of air intake temperature on a naturally aspirated pinto? And where it is measured?
What temperature is best for power? And at what temperature power starts to fall off?
Whilst looking for info on what fanswitch to use I found this sticky.
Going to fit an alloy rad to my Mk2, the fan-switch Ralloy supplied (M22 type) is a 98/93 (on/off) type.
Several people commented that they recommend a switch with 85/80 temps or there-abouts; why would Ralloy sell the rad with a 98/93 switch? (haven't aske them yet)
Maybe the Rad itself was sold for a different engine setup rather than a Pinto. A zetec runs closer to that temp so maybe they sell it with the idea of running a zetec.
Engine is BDA and the radiator is for that engine.
Higher water temps are becoming normal - fuels, oils and coolants have moved on in 40 years so running hotter (if controlled well) shouldn't cause big issues. BUT cars still equiped with carbs will suffer from high underbonnet temps - its a balancing act . . . . . . 76-80 deg water temps with a constant engine driven fan push air throw the engine bay against 85-95 deg coolant tightly controlled with elec fan and resultant relatively high underbonnet temps due to lack of airflow ? ? ?
hi temps are good for emissions, but max power still requires a relatively cool head which is why most car manufacturers now use electronic thermostats so they can chose between hot for good emissions and economy or cool for max power.
i see it on the dyno all the time, engine power will go up as you do multiple power runs, it then stabilizes, however if when get to the point it stabilizes you switch off and let it sit for a bit then test again, you will see a power gain, this is because cylinder head temp will of cooled but block will be thoroughly heat-soaked, warm block cool head gives best power.
with my scrutineers hat on i often watch multiple back to back hub and rolling road power tests, the power always changes every run. which makes me realize with hindsight a lot of rolling road power testing is flawed because results are almost always based on single runs which wont necessarily show up small changes accurately
Not wishing to disagree but I don't see how an electronic thermostat can respond to cool the whole system quick enough to suit max power when someone buries the throttle to, say, overtake a line of cars? IMO the temps may reach optimal power temps after the movement has been completed and max power is no longer required.
The point you make about head / block temps are entirely valid but in real world scenarios, you can't divorce the two, so surely the third or fourth run in a sequence when temps have levelled out are the 'correct, real world' figures?
As a biking man you will be aware of Suzuki's oil cooled engines - it is quite often advised to add an additional oil cooler inserted into the head cooling circuit - this blasts oil directly on to the backside of the cylinder around the plug / valves which 'should' be the hottest part of the engine . . . . . whether it achieves a noticable gain, the jury is out unless racing where high constant heat is enevitable!
i was pointing out that you can produce a higher power figure by letting the engine rest a bit after its fully fully warmed up and doing another "pull" but thats not how i test engines.
i run them until power output has stabilised, then i do a further 5 or 6 pulls and let the software average them, but in practise all the runs will usually be within 1-2 bhp. i also run a water temp mid 80's most of the time so i would say my numbers are pretty indicative of a motor which is being pushed on a track or stage
Fair play !
interesting test on water temps....and not as big a change as one would have thought. Different engines may respond in different ways ? maybe, maybe not. And likewise for fuel temperatures, he tested that too, with surprisingly little difference
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0t29ScyLvw
9.85 @ 145mph 202mph standing mile
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ss_c7fML3rw
True, but when he also ran it from much cooler up to that...it still shows it makes a really small difference overall. I would have expected a bigger difference
Not many people would race an engine at temperatures OEM's run them at though
9.85 @ 145mph 202mph standing mile
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ss_c7fML3rw
im not, as Richard said at the end of the video oil temp has a bigger effect.
ive seen a V8 rover gain 5-6 bhp simply taking the oil from 50 degrees to 70 degrees on same water temp.
it makes me wonder about some of the small gains we spent hours looking for on the rolling road, was the gain just the oil getting hotter?
from what ive seen on the dyno, and in the race paddock when power testing cars I can 100% say one pull is defiantly not enough to know for sure if you have a real change
If doing a lot of testing, the "variables" like temperatures, would need to be controlled to become more constant. Otherwise as you say, testing could end up all over the place.
9.85 @ 145mph 202mph standing mile
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ss_c7fML3rw
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