a simple MOT failure wich went on to a long term project now 7 years. Reasons, money and time. I will try to sort out some pictures from beginning to latest stages. Car has been Original 1100 cc Kent "Valencia" engine. Now having a build CVH 1640 cc. and lots more modified stuff. I Always loved the racing spirit from oval racing and dragracing in a road going car. I never need comfort, no luxury but just go fast from A to B. Here's picture how it looked untouched. There were many hidden rust spots.
Towbar removal and panel repair. Towbar not needed. Weight saving is best and cost effective performance. Smoothed the back, as i dont use bumper yet. Maybe a custom made later. I removed all plastic trim from sides as well.
today temps way to high at 95F for me, sweating already while putt'n on my shoes, so its at desk time. I'll post as much i ehh feel like, to get fast forward in time. Welding on old metal ( residues you cant get rid of ) is not much of a thrilling thing to do.
I did drill most out of the front section of the car, to get behind double stitchd panels, where the brownish devil resides. Cant do a whole new car of this ,but it has cost me many hours already to get decent results. Front panel got out, and then i saw after brushing all paint of, that the car had a bad damage repair. The front end went from middle to indicator half an inch! down. So no wonder it sat crooked in there. I had to cut horizontal and vertical, get it straight, and weld in pieces formed after the panel profile to make it fit nicely. Can you imagine what hassel i got to remove the damn fenders? It has been kitted on by one inch thick sealer putty. What have those "engineers" at Ford plant thought doin this kind of crap. I did made fenders as bolt on parts now.
suspension bits end of 2016 it was. Nice GAZ suspension kit i bought for improved handling. Picture of PU bushings fitted some time ago. See what can happen if you leave it to others who runs a garage service. Hubs and other parts cleaned wirebrushed and painted glossy black
last bit for today, bit of fun in between. Making a gearknob from hardwood. I hope it holds together after a while. Otherwise i build a new better one. Maybe out of aluminium, since i had bought a lathe a while ago.
A fresh update from today in tekst only. Today i got to figure out to have new fuel lines plumbed or stick with the original, not sure yet. I wanted to get the new build engine to run, because it sits in the car for few months with all the aditional work i have done around it. I contineud under the car, and removed the fuel tank. Turns out it is toast. I have found a new one on Ebay, not sure if i'll do take a Original fuel tank or go for an ATL or other , but it is expensive. Most cars are sprayed all over with body sealer, mine is no exeption, It covers springs brakelines, everything. Now i have to get it all scraped off make it clean as good as it gets to put on new paint.
Has anybody experience with a good paint remover? what brand does really work?
thank you. Yes they are neat little cars, good to drive. You're in for some more candy. Many pictures in stages how i made parts, like steeringwheel hub from stainless steel, custom Weber DCOE airstacks hammerd out of aluminium pipe ect.
alright, here we go with some more stuff i did made for my Fezz. It was an interresting job to try and build a custom made clutch release bearing assy. Story behind this was, that the original flywheel with 220mm clutch was a fairly heavy item. 6,8 KG or about 14 lbs. I did not wanted to turn this old flywheel above 6500 rpm, and its weight was to heavy. So first i ordered a lightweight steel item from Burton with ringgear, and send it to the engine builder in Germany. And he replied soon after, it was not good. Couldnt get the ringgear on, and to much of imbalance. So i said, send it back, and it went back to UK . Got my money back, and i went to search for other. Clutchplate i had was 190 mm ( Ford Escort 2 ) so no use for that. Then i found TTV racing in UK and had me build a flywheel ( 450 € expensive bit ). A one piece machined high quality part for a 184 mm racing clutch. I did order a 184 clutch assy from AP racing, and went bezerk with having a rigid cerametallic 3-puck disc. I'll see how it will drive, it has just tiny little slip possible ( hillclimb rally use ) The custom made Flywheel has only 3,8 KG mass. That is a lot of difference. It also means revs drop quickly, but i am a lover crisp quick shifts. Now add to that was after i had overhaul my BC5 Gearbox, by a friend of mine, i came back later to him and still wanted the LSD in it, because i had the cash by then. So newly build gearbox apart again and put in a Quafe ATB . The OEM clutch release bearing was not good enough for the AP racing clutch, because it simply did not fit the dia of the pressure springs. I had to make my own with a AP bearing i bought one to suit my application. Only thing left from Original was the base plate, rest custom made. See pictures how it has been made. All has to be tested still to see if it works alright and no problems occur. Sorry pictures are random order, to much work to sort it out. If you have aquestion about one of the pictures, shoot, i'll try to explain. bronze sleeve (10).JPG centreerstuk (4).JPG centreerstuk (3).JPG centreerstuk (2).JPG centreerstuk (1).JPG druklager klaar (2).JPG bronze sleeve (11).JPG relbearing (16).JPG bronsbus (1).JPG bronsbus (2).JPG bronze sleeve (2).JPG bronze sleeve (4).JPG bronze sleeve (6).JPG bronze sleeve (9).JPG druklager klaar (1).JPG bronze sleeve (1).JPG
Next story is about steeringwheel hub. I had a Luigi 32cm steeringwheel from the Escort mk2 i once had. I figured using this in my Fiesta. But this was not simply going to bolt on there of course. So i made up a hub from CroMo steel. See pictures how its made.
alright next thing. Today i have time to catch up with past material. So here we go onto the Carburettors Airstacks. I am running restored Original Italian Weber DCOE 40 carbs on my CVH eninge. i had 36mm long stacks intended for Dellórto carbs. and put them on. But i wanted to do my own handmade aluminium set. So i went on getting me a piece of aluminium pipe ID 40 OD 45. It was a great project wich was hard labour, but fun. In the pictures you see steps of how it is made. These are tapered stacks, dowel pinned old fashioned way to flanges. with tiny brass pins. length 75mm. tapered out to 70 mm. I used most the anvil with two differnt shaped hammers. Approx. 4 hours a piece went into this set of 4. Fun about is, i want to create stuff, comes into mind in a flash and i then i want to fabricate it "right now". The reason you see with the flanges bolting holes, is that i just got short of the overall dimensions of alu sheet i had. Well, looks bit hmm… but it does the job
Start hammering on anvil with 40/45 alu pipe hameren0.JPG
Recent stuff: Plan to get engine running failed. Had to remove petroltank, and it showd crusty bits round the weldseam. So that tank was toast. I found and ordered a new one from UK and got it within 3 days. Very good seller on Ebay. Just picked it up today with a 3 gallon can of paintstripper, very agressive stuff. Let the dirty fun begin
Now it is about the exhaust. I bought an Ashley 4-2-1 Manifold, and checking it up on the exhaust gasket, it was way off. Poorley matched, full of welding spats, and at y-joints large interferences up to 3mm. It hampers flow. ( i hope my englich grammar is written ok ) So i did modifie the lot to better results. Sorry to say, but i never buy any Ashley again i tell you. This is poorley made. Not my standard anyway. By then thought came up to make my own 4-2-1 stainless steel manifold. I did this before. Now i wanted to create another one. I knew that it might be overkill, and maybe performance will be not as good as could be. But just for the heck of it and experimental wise i did spend the money on material and got to work. Material used is called "stainless steel AISI-304 or 4301" It is often used for exhaust. It was a tedious work all togehter, hard to messure anything from scratch. Also it was to expensive to use up gallons of Argon as backinggas too. So in order to keep burned material inside the piping to minimum, i had to weld as cold as possible, yet get enough penetration. Not easy, certainly if all the curves of pipes come together, and weld all around. Just a vice on the bench, no tricks available, all sawed by hand. Now here is a bunch of pictures below. First The Ashley story. Site does load very slow today, i do two parts.
picture of homemade exhaust manifold. To much editting pictures of how to, i am tired. I 'll post the exhaust complete with home build system soon, just could not find the picture yet, must be still on camera ( i hope didnt lost it ) lambda nu goed.JPG
Very nice bit of fabrication there - the longer primaries should work in your favour as well, the Ashley one looks like its design was more of ease of construction rather than performance!
It is the problem with the site, it loads very slow. Al other websites no problem only this one, it started a week ago. Otherwise i would show more of it. People told me, the standard RS1600i manifold was the best, but that's BS. You cant have one manifold for every application. This one has to be put to test to show if it works or not. It was more of a fun experiment. thank's for stopping by.
It is the problem with the site, it loads very slow. Al other websites no problem only this one, it started a week ago. Otherwise i would show more of it. People told me, the standard RS1600i manifold was the best, but that's BS. You cant have one manifold for every application. This one has to be put to test to show if it works or not. It was more of a fun experiment. Ashley makes exhaust for performance market, so they should make quality to begin with. Not this crap. thank's for stopping by.
Last edited by gid; 11-09-2019 at 20:51. Reason: bad loading site, double post sorry
To add to my comment, i hope to keep exhaust flow speed high as i have choosen a tad larger pipe dia. Indeed i did make the primairies longer and kept secondaries about same length. But then it is tuning with the intake too.
Offtopic, but i found this picture comparing a valvespring of a CVH with the huge one from my Esslinger 2850cc. Dont mind the surface rust, it is thin easily brushed clean with some WD40. Engine stored dry still new in parts to be build vergelijk.JPG
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